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Sciences 
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empreinte. 

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errata 
to 


)  pelure, 
on  d 


n 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

j 


TT 


TT 


JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS 


OTIS  TH 


ROCKY   MOUNTAINS, 

M  TM 

MOUTH  OF  THE  COLUMBIA  RIVER  i 

■  ADB    DOmNO   THl   Y1A«I   !•«»    AMD    H««l 

coHiAimmi  mmr '  u  wumoM  o*  «u 

VALLEYS  OF  THE  WILLAMETTE,  UMPQJA,  AND  CLAMBTf 

A  Mmnut  •■euniOM  w 

OREGON  TERRITORYi 

(^  m  inABiTAim,  ouH4n,  toit,  rsaBv«Tiom«  iro.,if«i|  I 


i 

I 


MECE88ARY  GUTPrTO  FOR  1MWRANT8| 

Am  A 

Ciblf  tf  9(itucw  Uw  «««*  tt  Ca«i»  ra  t|t  &«vtt. 

ALSOt 
A  L«l«r  Aom  th*  IUt.  H.  H.  Sp^liqt,  t«f4ilei»l  MImIo^mt,  tof  lh«  >•«  ••■  m^ 
•mans  ih*  N.i  P«rc*  Trlb*  of  M\m»,  on  rt*  KiMM-koorkM  Wf^i  Tk« 
OrgMle  Lowoof  OfMO"  T.nilory |  Trtlot of  6b«rt M wort.  oTiho CW«ort| 
Joirm,  Md  aboai  mWotte  of  ilM  Nm  Ptn*  LMtmi*)  •  DMortyiiM  of 
Mount  Hood;  luoidMM of  TnivoI,  ko.«ke. 


BT  JOMI.  »AI4ni«. 


CINCINNATI: 

J.  A.  &  U.  F.  JAMBB,  WALNUT  8TRB1T, 

nrrwESN  wovtctH  and  nnH. 

185t. 


EmsBB.  Meotding  to  Acl  of  CongnH.  In  U»  jmx  1847,  by 

J.  A.  &  U.  P.  JAMBS, 

In  U»  Olerk'i  Offlee  of  th»  Dtitrict  Court  of  Ohio. 


.<»• 


OMIiniATI.  


r— 


Um  ymi  1847,  hj 
>urt  of  Ohio. 


vo  nil 
PIONEERS  OP  THE  WEST, 

AND  THUS  DIIOBNDANTS, 
*■■   BOm    AVD    MOICLB    OF    TBI    OOHllVKITTi 

WHontrmon  amd  tnuniraa  eooarar  nr  tmua, 
un  nonet  md  wtmn  it  m  wab, 

«|f»  orttk 

It  BUrUTTOU.* 

DBDIOATBD. 


PUBLISHERS'  ADVERTISEMENT. 


V^»  ^^M^MWV^%'WW*^^|^^*^"*'**^^^^*^ 


Ik  offering  to  the  public  a  new  work  on  Oregon,  the 
publiaherx  frel  confident  that  they  are  performing  an^ 
acceptable  service  to  all  who  are  desirous  of  obtaining, 
full  and  conect  information  of  that  extensiye  and  inter- 
esting region. 

The  facta  contained  in  this  Journal  of  Travels  over 
the  Rocky  Mountains  were  obtained,  by  the  author^ 
from  personal  inspection  and  observation;  or  derived 
from  intelligent  persons,  some  of  whom  had  resided  in 
the  country  for  ten  years  previously.  It  contains,  as  is 
believed,  much  very  valuable  information  never  before 
published,  respecting  the  Oregon  Territory. 

Mr.  Palmer's  statements  and  descriptions  are  direct 
and  clear,  and  may  be  relied  on  for  their  accuracy. 
He  observed  with  the  eye  of  an  intelligent  farmer  the 
hills  and  valleys;  timbered  land  and  prairies,  soil,  grass, 
mill  sites,  &c.;  all  of  which  he  has  particularly  described. 

To  the  man  about  to  emigrate  to  Oregon  just  the  kind 
of  information  needed  is  given.  He  is  informed  what 
is  the  best  season  for  setting  out;  the  kinds  and  quanti- 
ties of  necessary  outfits;  where  they  may  be  piachased 
to  the  best  advantage,  so  as  to  save  money,  time  and 
useless  hauling  of  provisions,  and  to  promote  comfort 
and  prevent  w^ering  on  the  long  journey. 


i 


J 


▼» 

A  pwticuUr  account  of  Oregon  city  »•  g»*en;  **»• 
»umb«r  of  homet  and  inhabitants;  the  number  and 
kinds  of  mechanical  trades  carried  on;  and  the  prices 
current  during  the  author's  stay  there. 

Tha  objects  <rf  natural  curiowty  on  the  route—the 
Solitary  Tower— the  Chimney  Rock— Independence 
Rock— the  Hot  Spring^-the  DevU's  Qate-the  South 
Paa»— the  Soda  Spring,  and  many  others— are  no- 
ticed. 

The  work  is  ealiTCMd  with  aaecdotes  of  mountain* 
etr   life  — ihooting   b^iffab  —  huntiiig   bear  — takiag 

fish,  lie. 

Mr.  Palmer  mad*  th«  ascent  of  one  of  the  highest 
peaks  of  Mount  Hood,  almost  alone,  and  with  a  T«ry 
■canty  supply  of  piorisions.  An  extraordinary  achieve, 
ment,  when  the  eircusartancei  under  which  H  WM 
•ocompUdwd  are  takni  into  eonwttntioo. 

CfcMfieirt,  bmmarg,  W4T. 


r. 

f  ii  given;   th« 

le  number  ind 

and  the  prices 

the  route — the 
—Independence 
3ate — the  South 
hen  — *  we   do« 

[ta  ot  motiBtain* 
;   b«tr  — takiaf 

•  of  the  higheel 
ind  widi  •  Tcrj 
ordinvy  achieve* 


INDEX. 


IMIM  o<  InionmMiois  or  D»«en»«l«»M  of  N«»r«l  C«i««UM,  ••»  »•  »«»"  1 

0»|»»»»io«oriOflmpwiyloiraTrtloOr*r» [» 

AfriTml  et  tiM  MUa  OMRtry [J 

ElMtlMorO«MntoeoMl«M«tlM<»»pM]r JJ 

BtfVwntUoik    BIm  Mm *• 

PtoltolUm * 2 

84riltai7TMm...^-..'.«"<'» • i: 

CUmaajr  lUdi^ *:'"',V*'.*1"!^ 

Brt«Uliu«.lfi«n»o«bMHloniidlMe,M4lW»wWi  Ik. 

priMipel  ChW. JJ 

FwtLMsaie " 

DvltoterrVMBim J* 

RidBattM.    IwlepwiieBe*  Book •» 

SwMtWfttwRim.    D«tU'«0«»» • " 

AiriT«l»»tfce8wBmU  of  Ike  Rooky  Mflwrtelne »; 

Oram  Birar  or  Coiondo "*  ** 

FortBildgw ♦ •* 

BovBiver '••"Mfr"""-*'"  2* 

Sod*  8prieg« •'•• ••••  2 

8l««Bo.l»pH-f.....;.:... 2 

Fort  Hall »M*.»'""".»M««"?'j^'"«v  ", 

8Mke  Blm  .........'........■....".«•;..;.%.«.».••••••"•••"  «^ 

HotSpriogt 2 

Fort  Bote '•  •• 

PowdorBim '••  ^ 

OiMdRoand    • " 

Blee  M«mBtetae^Um»UHo  Blm »• 

^^ ••.«••• i* 


AnlTa!  tt  »h#  TolumM*  RI«m •• 

John  D«y'i  Rl»M.    D«huto«  Rif«r •    •• 

ArrivtUtiha  DallM  of  ihaColumbl*  RlfW •* 

Mount  llooa •• 

ArriMi  M  Oregon  City •♦ 

SuUillet  tie.  of  Owgon  City •• 

DaMripUona  of  th«  V.IUyt  of  Uw  WJIIamatto,  Ump<|ut,  and 
Clamat,  and   tlM  Country  on  tha  Paeifte  South  of  tha 

Coluiubla •• 

Mooihof  J»aCoI«mbl»  BWar ^1 

Fort  VaneouTM ||' 

Country  North  of  tha  CclwbUu [J* 

Hudaon'a  BayCoMpany [[• 

Prlooa  Currant **• 

SlalMnant  of  waalhar  in  Oragondaringtha  wInUiof  'M*  40  lit 

Commancar«lumtotha"8tataa" I» 

Aaeend  tha  Columbia  RWw  In  •  *•«•» **' 

••  Capa  Here.'    Caaeada  Falla '■• 

Fort  WallawaUa - JJJ 

Arriwl  at  Dr.  WWtman'a  Statloa I» 

Arrifal  at  Mr.  SpaWlnf'e  Station.      Dlffleultlaa  with  Indiana  lU 

Adrantoia  with  a  band  of  hoaUla  Indiana IM 

NtetaaAnr  OrrnTa  ron  BmaaAirra  nAtmhtM  w  0««o«    14t 

Tabla  of  Worda  of  tha  Chinook  Jargon HT 

••  ••    of  thaNwParealiMguaga IM 

TkbUofDiatanoar • *•• 

APPENDIX. 

Utu  SpAtwini'a  U+Tia.  EiTtirr  or  CooirpaT;  Climats  i 
APTARTAaia  ron  tbi  Hbndirs  aTanii  j  Mambt,  Siab, 
AWB  Batb,  !».,*« *** 

OROANIO  LAWS  Of  ORSOON ••. »W 


/«-iC 


JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS 


eviKTU 


ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 


RTt  CuMAnt 

MAMtT,  But, 


fcl'^.^.fe.'v 


Mi;iW  -»C 


H*m«  eonel«l«d.  ftom  rtii  b«rt  inforni.Uon  I  wm  .bl«  to 
obUin,  ihtl  ih«  Oregon  Ttrrltofr  •«•'•  !«•»  »«««"<»«•"»■«« 
•fflifrlno.  I  d.U.rmTn«J  to  »l.ti  i»  with  •  fiow  of  Mii.fjrin| 
mvMtf  In  Mwrd  u>  it,  ind  of  Meomlnlng  by  pwwn.1  ob.«. 
mtkin  whether  iu  •dv.nlMjw  w«ro  tufflelont  to  w.rr.nt  m.  lo 
th«  flffort  t»  m«k«  it  my  ftiinro  homo.    1  ttwtwl.  •roordrngly, 
0.1  the  looming  of  th«  lOih  of  April,  184»,  »■»  ~'»|»«y  *"«^ 
Mr.  Spencor  Buokley.     Wo  •ipocl«)  U>  b«   olnod  ^  •.»«rtl 
youn.  men  ftn.n  R«.h»illo,  Ind..  hot  thoy  •II  .bwidoned  iht 
onlorpriM,  »nd  gave  ui  no  other  onowiregement  than  their 
Mod  Viehee  for  oor  earceee  end  ••ftiy.     I  took  eew  of  my 
fimily,  fri.nde  and  home,  with  •  truly  moltncholy  heart    I 
had  long  looked  forward  and  auffored  In  Imagmation  the  pain 
of  thia  anticipated  eeparalion »  hot  I  had  not  taaUM^  of  Iw  rtal- 
itiet,  and  none  but  ihoae  wlio  hare  parted  with  a  family  under 
•imilar  eireumetoncea.  can  form  any  juat  ooneepuon  of  the 
depth  and  power  of  the  emoUone  which  perf  aded  mybreMi 
on  that  occaainn.    The  unAruking  before  me  waa  arduooa. 
It  might  and  doobtleee  would  be  attended  with  variooa  and 
anknowM  difflcoltlee,  priratlona  end  dangera.    A  doubt  aroae 
in  my  mind,  whether  the  advantogea,  which  were  expected  to 
reaalt  from  the  trip,  would  be  likely  to  compentate  for  the 
time  and  expenae  neeeaanry  to  accomplish  st:  but  I  belieTed 
that  I  waa  ry*t,  hoped  tor  the  beat,  and  prwed  onward. 

We  were  favoured  with  a  pleaaant  day  and  good  roadi, 
iHMhMlUM  in  MHM  difrM  lo  lUaaipst*  th«  slooa  whieh 


10 


JOURNAL  or  TIUVBI4  OVB* 


I 


had  weighed  down  my  epiriu  upon  leaving  homt.  Our  day  a 
travel  ei.led  at  Blue " River,  rn  llie  banlii  of  which  we  en- 
camped for  the  firat  time  on  the  long  and  tedioua  journey  b*- 

jipril  17.  Arrived  at  Indianapolia,  in  the  aAernoon,  where 
we  expected  to  rnent  a  number  of  per«)ni,  who  had  expreaaed 
a  determin-iion  to  join  the  party.  But  here  too,  aa  in  tne 
case  of  our  Rushville  frienda,  we  wore  doomod  to  meet  diaap- 
pointmenlj— not  one  was  found  willing  to  join  va  in  our  expe- 
dition. After  having  had  our  horeea  vrekJ  ahod,  (w«  |»v««a 
in  an  ordinary  vagon  drawn  by  two  hor»M,)  •"o  •>•»»"«  '•»° 
in  a  supply  of  medminee,  we  put  up  for  th*  night 

w?i),5  18.  We  this  day  had  a  •ample  of  what  MiAt  ht 
cMti  the  mithapi  of  trtvelere-w  encounter  with  a  wJd  an- 
imal.  the  tirat  which  we  met  in  our  journey.  On^  of  our 
horses  heooming  bme,we  wer«  oblig«l  to  trade  hiro  away,  and 
received  in  exchange  one  ao  wild,  tlial  it  reouirjd  ^t  grea*st 
-.igilance  a«d  exertSM  on  our  p«r*  t ,  ^ttrmA  hi« Jw*"  ">"; 
nine  away  wiih  our  whole  oonc«ra.  W«  r«ch*J  Mount 
Meridian  aA«r  a  day',  journey  of  about  ihlrty^our  mHea.  du- 
ring  which  we  aueoeeded  admiraWx  »nto"»»«>l,«''  *i^  ,^»"^" 

%rU  24.  IU«»%«1  the  Miaaiaaippi,  oppoclte  to  St.  Loul^ 
havi!«  traveled  daily,  and  made  the  beat  of  our  t»«t  dW 
leavimr  Mount  Metidiaa.  ^,  , 

JtSil  25.  W8  made  a  few  purohaaw  *'•  J?*»*"!i»  T' 
mUm  chiefly  of  Indian  trinket^  tob«w».  powder,  ^^' 

«,d.ii>on  after,  rewimed  «>«  MW  •!»«»  J*"  S^Jf^^d 
OhMlea, the Btttofliistiea for 8t.0h«l« oountr   Werwolf 

thii<  pU«  at  Kho  etoM  of  the  day,  and  W!oamiv«d  npaa  tha 
Slkirfthe  Mkw^iri.  which  app^wa  ta  b.  ibout  ta  wkIo  as 
STShio  at  CincianaU.  i.  a  f-ir  ••H*  o^  wator ,  the  curjjnt  Ij, 
quite  sUoBgs  the  wetof  very  thick  a«d  muddy,  "we,  we 
retook  a  compfwy  cf  Germana,  from  St.  I^«.  who  I0A 

Sowomeo  and  three  ehildr«n »  they  *aveledjcith  ^  w^ 
dniwnby«xm»l«.«»d.«irtdniwnbytwo^      ^V^ 
means  of  ee«»eya»ee  for  aoehe  bat  ajdtejwr       ->k    we 
u»vtAmA  the  aame  road  vntil  *Te  reaehed  Fort  iU 
SH/il^S.  o'clock  A.  M.  we  eroa^i  u.e  rlTeno-i 

«,mewhat  unduUtirc  1  the  aoiUUio«|k  poorty  wi»».  .eppeMl 
tA  ba  mod.  ewl  predaoe*  reepeoifcble  •7»P««.^    .  _  .  ^ 


Tim  BOCKY  MOUHTAIN& 


11 


le.  Our  <!•▼'• 
which  wo  en- 
ua  journey  b«» 

ternoon,  where 
had  oxprewed 
too,  M  in  the 
i  to  meet  i\np- 
V9  in  our  expe- 
1,  (we  trkveled 
ind  haviug  laid 
jfht 

what  SfOight  Im 
with  a  wild  an- 
r.  One  of  our 
ihimeway.and 
,red  the  grea;e8t 
him  ffoai  run- 
reaoh«iJi  Mount 
four  mileB,  du» 
our  wild  horae. 
it*  Ut  Su  Louie, 
our  tioM  «Aer 

B  Borainf*  eon' 
twder,  leao,  Am. 
he  loai  to  Sl 
\y..  W«r«aohed 
mived  Kipon  the 
txDUt  ta  wide  aa 
r;  the  current  ie 
dy.  Here,  we 
LtHiit,  who  IM 
led  of  Ami  naii. 
rt  with  ^  wafott 

wA  urn  liytK  mi 
t  thv  uxMitry  ia 
wato».^«pnm 


and  unpleaaant.  The  country  through  which  we  paued  ia  a 
tolling  prairie :  some  parte  of  it  are  very  well  timbered.  On 
account  of  the  eoarcity  of  aprioga,  the  people  rely  generally 
upon  their  auppliea  of  rain  water.  There  we  were  joined  by 
a  clever  backwoodsman,  by  the  n«me  of  Dodson,  who  waa 
making  the  best  of  hie  lonely  journey  to  join  an  emigrating 
party  at  Independence;  upon  hie  oonsienting  to  bear  an  equal 
ahare  in  our  expenses  and  outfit  at  that  place,  we  took  him  in, 
and  traveled  together. 

Jpril  38.  We  atartad  thia  momiRv  at  sunrise,  and  traveled 
to  Lute  creek,  a  distanee  of  aiz  and  a  half  mike.  This  stream 
was  so  much  swoUen,  *n  coneeqiMaee  of  the  recent  raine,  that 
we  weve  unable  to  ford  it,  and  wet  a  fisrcod  to  encamp  upon  ile 
hanks,  and  reo^ain  all  day.  While  tiiere,  we  were  greatly  an« 
noyed  by  the  wood-tieh-~m  inseul  reeembUng,  in  ana  and  in 
other  reapeelfe.  the  Aetg/^iek.  Theee  insects,  with  which  the 
bushes  and  even  the  ground  eeemed  to  be  oovered,  faatened 
ihemselvee  with  Sv<eh  tenacity  upon  oar  flesh,  that  when  pick* 
ing  them  off  in  the  morning,  the  head  would  remain  sttekiig 
fiist  to  the  nkin,  causing  in  mo«t  cases  a  painful  wound. 

Jlpril  39.  We  traveled  about  twentv-six  milee,  throt.'>  a 
gently  undulating  country :  the  principal  crope  consisted  of 
com,  oats,  tobaeeo  and  aome  wheat.  We  pasued  throvgh 
Willianaboigh  and  Fulton.  The  latter  town  is  the  aeat  of 
JHStifo  for  OiilUway  eoonty. 

Jlprilta.    We  made  an  advanee  of  lOiout  thirty  miles 


our  halt  and  tuwicqped  for  the  oighl,  five  aules  weatward  of 
thik  town. 

Atfay  1.  Weatartedthia momingat  the aswd  honr»andafter 
»  ride  of  eight  miles,  naehed  and  re-crossed  the  Miseoari,  m 
Kodieport,  and  oontioaed  cor  jootoey  nntil  night,  paesing 
thrm^h  Eooneville,  the  oounty  aeat  of  Cooper~«  >ich  and 
fortile  eoan^,  making  in  all  a  rid*  of  tweoty-eiz  miles. 

JU^  %  Peeaod  ti»oi«h  the  town  of  Marshall,  the  aeat 
cf  jmtico  for  8aliM  county.  Tha  town  stands  npon  an  «U> 
tatod  pnitie»  vptn  which  may  be  found  •  few  groves  of 
4ht«hby  timber.  The  oounwy  upon  this  [the  weet3  side 
•pyeared  to  be  mnek  better  snp^ied  with  wntar,  than  that 
niioQ  the  enn  aide* 


tipiIMN 


IMHiMIMNMI 


J 


M  JOURNAL  C/  TRAVEUI  OVBR 

MtUed  prairie  country.  The  crop»,  cuUiftted  genertlljr  by 
nejrroe*,  consisted  of  hemp,  corn,  oats,  snd  a  little  whest  and 
tobacco.  The  soil  appeared  to  be  good,  but  the  scarcity  of 
timber  will  prove  a  serious  barrier  to  a  complete  settlemeat 

of  the  country.  .       t.      _u 

May  4.  We  traveled  twenty-three  nailes  this  day,  througli 
a  better  improved  and  pleasantiBr  part  of  Missouri,  than  any 
we  have  yet  seen.  The  crops  appeared  well;  there  were 
fine  orchards  under  successful  cultivation.  The  country  ia 
well  timbered,  and  there  appears  nothing  to  hinder  it  from 
becoming  the  seat  ol  a  dense  and  tJiriving  population. 

Mm  6.  Reached  Independence  at  nine  o'clock  A.  M.; 
and  as  tlie  main  body  of  emigrants  had  left  a  few  days  pre. 
vious,  we  hastily  laid  in  our  supplies,  and  at  five  o'clock  P. 
M.,  pushed  iorward  about  two  mdee,  and  encamped  upon  th« 
banks  of  a  small  creek,  in  company  with  four  wacons,  bound 
for  Oregon.  Prom  one  of  the  wagone  Uiey  drew  forth  a  laife 
jug  of  whiskey,  and  before  bedHhne  all  the  men  were  com- 
pletely intoxicated.  In  the  crowd  was  a  monntaineer,  who 
gave  us  a  few  lessons  in  the  first  chspter  of  a  life  among  the 
mountains.  At  roidniffht,  when  all  were  quiet,  I  wrapped 
myself  in  my  blanket,  laid  down  under  an  oak  tree,  and  began 
to  realise  that  I  was  ou  my  journey  to  Orejron. 

May  7.  After  traveling  about  fifteen  miles  we  halted  and 
procured  an  extra  set  of  horse-shoes,  and  a  few  additional  w». 
gon  bows.  The  main  body  of  the  emigrants  is  twenty-five 
miles  in  advance  of  us :  we  have  now  paseed  out  of  Mirtouri, 
And  are  traveling  in  an  Indian  country— most  of  which  is  a 

rolling  prairie.  ..,»«,       j  ^    ,  j 

May  8.  We  started-at  seven  o'Hoek,  A.  M.  and  traveled 
about  twenty  miles.  Towards  evening  we  overtook  an  emigra- 
ting company,  consisting  of  thirty-eight  wagons,  with  about  one 
thousand  head  of  loose  cattle,  all  under  the  direction  of  a  Mr. 
Brown.  We  passed  tills  -ompany,  expecting  to  overUke  a 
company  of  about  one  hundred  wagons,  which  were  but  a  few 
miles  befi»re  us.  The  night,  however,  became  so  dark  that 
we  were  compelled  to  encamp  upon  the  prairie.  Soon  after 
we  had  staked  our  horses,  a  herd  of  wild  Indian  horses  cam« 
galloping  furiously  by  us,  which  so  alarmed  our  horaes  ami 
mule«.  that  they  broke  loose  and  ran  away  after  tbem.  Dod- 
M>n  and  myself  pursued,  but  were  distanced,  and  after  ninnihg 
two  or  three  miles,  abandoned  the  chase  as  hopeless,  and  »!>• 
ftaipied  10  f«ttM  t6  ib«  umpi    Owing  Ifr  ibe^^hui*,  w« 


THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


II 


id  genenlly  by 
little  whe»t  and 
the  aearrity  of 
pleto  settlement 

liM  day,  through 
iRouri,  than  any 
ell;  there  were 
The  country  ia 
hinder  it  from 
tulalion. 

o'clock  A.  M.| 
a  few  daya  pro- 
five  o'clock  P. 
amp.d  apon  the 
r  waoona,  boand 
rew  forth  a  laifo 
men  were  oom- 
onntaineer,  who 
a  life  among  the 
aiet,  I  wrapped 
I  tree,  and  b^an 
n. 

a  we  halted  and 
w  additional  mm- 
ta  is  twenty-five 
out  of  MiAouri, 
wt  of  which  is  a 

M.  and  traveled 
Brtook  an  emigra« 
IS,  with  about  one 
irection  of  a  Mr. 
ng  to  overtake  a 
h  were  but  a  few 
.me  so  dark  that 
lirie.  Soon  after 
Jian  horses  cams 
I  our  horees  and 
fier  them.  Dod. 
and  after  mnnirig 
hopeless,  and  »U 
tbe^idarkQAii.  «• 


were  unable  to  find  our  camp,  until  the  night  had  far  advanced ; 
and  when  we  finally  reached  it,  it  required  all  my  Iodic,  sup- 
ported by  the  positive  testimony  of  Buckley,  to  convince  Dod* 
son  that  we  wpre  actually  there. 

May  0.  At  daylight,  Dodion  and  I  resumed  the  search  for 
our  lost  stock.  After  a  fatiguing  tramp  of  aeveral  hours,  I 
came  upon  one  oi  ihe  mules,  which  being  hobbled,  had  been 
unable  to  keep  with  the  herd.  Dodson  was  unsuccessful,  and 
returned  to  camp  before  me;  during  our  absence,  however, 
the  herd  had  strolled  near  the  camp,  and  Buckley  had  aucceed- 
ed  in  taking  our  two  horaei.  Having  taken  eome  refresh- 
menta,  we  atarted  again  in  search  of  the  lost  animals.  As  I 
was  returning  to  camp,  hopeleas,  weary  and  hungry,  I  saw  at 
atiistence  Doilson  and  Buckley  mounted  upon  our  two  horses, 
and  giving  chnse  to  the  herd  of  Intlian  horses,  among  which 
were  our  two  mules.  The  scene  was  wild,  romantic  and  ex- 
citing. The  race  was  untrammeled  by  any  of  those  arbitrary 
and  uaelcss  rules  with  wiiieh  the  "  knights  of  the  turf"  en- 
cumber their  races,  and  was  pursued  on  both  sides,  for  a  nobler 
purpose ;  it  was  to  decide  between  the  rights  of  properly  on 
the  one  side,  and  the  righto  of  liberty  on  the  other.  The 
contest  was  for  a  long  time  doubtful;  but  the  herd  finally  suc- 
ceeded in  winning  the  race,  and  poor  Buckley  and  Dodson 
were  compelled  to  yield ;  the  former  having  lost  his  reputa- 
tion  as  a  sportaman,  and  the  latter-— what  grieved  him  moror— 
his  team  t  and  both  had  ruined  die  character  of  their  eouraeis 
in  auOering  them  to  be  beatan.  Sad  and  dispirited,  they  re- 
turned to  camp,  where,  after  a  abort  conanltation,  it  was  unan- 
imously resolved,^ — inasmuch  as  there  was  no  othtr  alternative, 
—to  aufler  the  mules  freely  and  forever  to  enjoy  the  enlarged 
liberty  which  they  had  so  nobly  won. 

The  day  was  nearly  spent,  but  we  harnessed  up  our  team 
and  traveled  four  miles,  to  the  crossing  uf  a  creek,  where  we 
encamped  for  the  ni^t. 

May  10.  Re-considered  our  resolution  of  last  evening,  and 
spent  the  morning  looking  for  die  mules— re-adopted  Uie  Komt 
resolution,  for  the  »amt  reason,  and  then  resumed  our  journey. 
We  advanced  about  eighteen  miles  through  a  very  fertile 
and  well  watered  country,  and  possessing,  along  the  banks  of 
the  water  courses,  a  aupply  of  bur  and  whita  oak,  ash,  elm, 
•od  Mack  wabut  timber,  amply  sufficient  for  all  practical  pur- 
poses. In  onr  travd,  we  crosised  a  stream  called  the  Walk»- 
rusha,  tiffn^'"^  baek  from  which,  about  two  miles  in  width. 


14 


JOURNAL  OF  TKAVELS  OVER 


W0  diarovered  a  fine  bottom  covered  with  heafy  bur  oak  and 
bUck  walnut  limber.  Aftor  pasaing  through  thia  bottom,  the 
tr»il  atrikea  into  a  level  and  beautifuT  prairie,  and  crowing  it — 
a  diiUnce  of  four  milee— rices  gradually  to  the  ridi?e  between 
the  Walkaruaha  and  the  Caw,  or  Kanaaa  river.  We  encamp- 
ed upon  the  rid»te,  in  full  view  of  the  two  atrcama,  which  at 
this  place  are  from  six  to  eight  miles  apart.  The  banks  of 
both  streams,  as  far  as  can  be  se«n,  are  lined,  eitlier  way,  with 
excellent  timber:  the  country  rises  gradually  from  the  streams, 
fur  fifteen  or  twenty  miles,  with  alternate  forests  and  prairies, 
presenting  to  the  eye  n  truly  splendid  scene.  I  noticed  here 
almost  a  countless  number  of  mo«nrf«,ln  diflTerent  directions— 
some  covered  with  timber,  others  with  long  grass.  '  The  Caw 
or  Kansas  Indians  dwell  along  these  streams.  'Through  this 
part  of  the  route  there  are  tvao  trails,  uniting  near  our  camp ; 
the  difference  in  the  distance  is  small. 

Mau  II.  We  traveled  about  twenty  miles,  and  passed  « 
company  of  twenty-eight  wagons.  The  road  runs  upon  the 
ridge,  which  after  a  distance  of  ten  or  twelve  miles  becomea  a 
broad  rolling  prairie.  As  night  came  on,  we  came  up  with  the 
company  of  one  hundred  wagons  which  we  were  in  pursuit  of: 
they  were  eneamped  upon  the  banka  of  a  small  brookt  four 
miles  from  the  Kansas,  into  which  it  empties.  We  joined  thia 
eompany.  At  dark  the  guard  was  sUtioned,  who  becoming 
tired  of  their  monotonous  round  of  duty,  amused  themselves  by 
•hooUng  several  doge,  and  by  so  doing  excited  no  small  tumult 
in  the  eompany,  which  after  some  exertion  on  the  part  or  the 
more  orderiy  portion  was  quelled,  and  tranquaUv  restoretl. 

Mm  12.  We  traveled,  about  four  miles  to  Caw  ok^  KansM 
rivw.  This  ie  a  muddv  stream,  of  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
yards  in  width.  We  were  obliged  to  be  ferried  over  it  in  a  flat 
boat ;  and  so  large  was  our  company,  and  so  slowly  did  the 
ferrymen  carry  on  the  necessary  operations,  that  darkness  over* 
took  us  before  half  the  wagons  had  crosaed  the  stream,  vw- 
ing  molestation  from  the  numerous  Indiana  who  were  prowling 
ateut,  we  wew  compelled  to  keep  a  ationg  guard  around  our 
camp,  and  especially  around  our  cattle ;  and  when  all  the  pre- 
liminaries  had  been  arranged,  we  betowk  ourselves  to  roat;  but 
our  tranqaility  was  soon  interrupted  by  one  cf  the  most  terrific 
thnnder  storms  that  I  ever  witnessed.  It  appeared  to  me  that 
the  very  4m»M%  had  broken  looee,  and  that  each  waa  engag- 
ing madly  in  a  desperate  struggle  for  the  mastery.  AU  was 
eonfiision  in  our  camp.    The  storm  had  ao  fnghlmcd  th«  ca>. 


Mt>«M»«««C:«« 


THE  ROCKY  UOl'NTAlNS. 


IS 


a? y  bar  oak  an<I 
I  this  bottom,  the 
and  crowing  it— 
[le  t'n\fft  between 
r.  '  We  encBinp- 
irrtmi,  which  at 
.  The  banks  of 
eitlier  way,  with 
Torn  the  atrpams, 
BSti  and  prairiea, 
.  I  noticed  here 
»rent  directiona— 
;ra«s.  /The Caw 
I. ''  Through  thii 
I  near  our  camp ; 

B«,  and  passed  « 
d  runs  upon  the 

miles  becomes  a 
eame  up  with  the 
'ere  in  pursuit  of: 
imall  bnwkc  four 
.  We  joined  this 
d,  who  becoming 
led  themselves  by 
id  no  small  Inmuit 
m  the  pMt  of  the 
nility  restoretl. 
10  Caw  ov  Kansas 
hundred  and  fifty 
ed  over  it  in  a  flat 
10  slowly  did  the 
Itat  darkness  over* 
he  stream.  Fear- 
ho  were  prowling 
guard  around  our 

when  all  the  pre- 
selves  to  re«t;  but 
cf  the  most  terrific 
ipeared  to  me  that 
t  each  was  engaf> 
nastery.  AU  was 
frigfalmied  th«  eaV 


tie,  that  they  were  perfectly  furious  and  ungovernable,  and 
rushed  through  the  guard,  and  dashed  forward  over  the  coun* 
try  before  us :  nothing  could  be  done  to  secure  them,  and  we 
were  obliged  to  sllow  them  to  have  out  their  race,  and  en* 
deavor  to  guard  our  camp. 

May  13.  Early  thia  morning  we  succeeded  in  finding  and 
taking  posaession  of  our  cattle,  and  by  noon  all  our  wagona 
had  crossed  the  river.  Soon  after  we  took  up  our  line  of 
march,  and  after  advancing  about  three  miles,  encamped  near 
the  banks  of  Big  Soldier  creek,  for  the  purpose  of  omniting 
the  company  by  an  election  of  oAoers}  the  officers  iktn  act- 
ing having  been  elected  to  aerve  only  until  the  company  ahould 
reach  thia  place.  It  was  decided,  when  at  Independence,  that 
htrt  there  ahould  be  a  thorough  and  complete  onaniiatinn. 
Great  ioiereal  had  been  manifeated  ia  rag8«d  to  tne  matter 
while  upon  the  read ;  but  flow  when  we  had  reached  the  spot 
and  tlie  period  for  attending  to  the  matter  in  earnest  had  ar- 
rived, the  excitement  was  intense.  The  most  important  of- 
ficers to  be  elected  were  the  pilot  andeaptain  of  the  company. 
There  were  two  candidates  for  the  office  of  pUot— one,  a  Mr. 
Adams,  from  Independence^— 4he  other  a  Mr.  Meek,  flrom  the 
same  place.  Mr.  Adams  had  once  been  u  far  weet  as  Fort 
Laramie,  had  in  hia  posseesioo  Gilpin's  Notes,  had  engaged 
a  Spanisrd,  who  had  traveled  over  tne  whole  route,  to  accom- 
pany him,  and  moreover  had  been  eonspiouoaslyinstruiBental 
m  producing  the  **  Oregon  fever.**  In  ease  the  eompauy  would 
elect  him  pUot,  and  pav  him  five  hundred  dollars,  M  Mvancf, 
he  would  bind  himself  to  pilot  them  to  Fort  Vancouver. 

Mr.  Meek,  an  old  mountaineer,  had  apent  several  years  as 
a  trader  and  trapper,  among  the  nountainsi  and  had  one*  been 
through  to  Fort  Vancouver  (  he  proposed  to  pilot  ue  through 
for  two  hundred  and  fifty  doUare,  thirty  of  whioh  were  to  be 
paid  in  advance,  and  the  balance  when  we  arrived  at  Fort 
Vancouver.  A  motion  wu  then  made  lo  postpone  the  elee- 
tion  to  the  next  day.  While  we  were  eonsidering  the  motion, 
Meek  came  running  into  the  camp,  and  informed  ua  that  the 
Indiana  were  driving  away  our  oattle.  Thii  iatelligwMe  caused 
the  utmost  oonfti9ion:  motions  and  propoallions,  eandidalee 
and  tbfir  specia'.  friends,  were  alike  dienfardedt  rjilCM  were 
grasped,  and  hot  n  were  haatily  OKNiated,  and  away  we  all 
galloped  in  pursuit.  Our  two  thousand  head  of  oatde  were 
■ow  acattered  over  the  prairiei  at  a  distanoo  of  four  or  fift 
milis  iirom  the  camp. 


■Pi 


It 


JOURNAl.  or  TRAVEI-8  OVER 


About  two  milei  from  camp,  in  full  viow,  up  the  prairie, 
waa  a  imall  Indian  village ;  the  greater  part  of  our  ciirsged 
people,  with  the  hope  of  hearing  from  the  loat  catile,  drove 
nipidly  forward  to  thia  place.     Aa  they  approached  the  vil- 
lage, the  poor  Indiana  were  Been  running  to  and  fro,  «n  great 
diamay— their  women  and  children  akulking  about  and  hidmg 
themaelvea,--while  the  chiefa  came  forward,  greeted  ourparjv 
kindly,  and  by  aigna  offered  to  amnke  the  pipe  of  peace,  and 
engage  with  them  in  trade.    On  being  charged  with  the  theft 
of  our  catile,  they  firmly  aaaerted  their  innocence;  and  auch 
waa  their  conduct,  that  the  majority  of  the  party  waa  con»in<^d 
they  had  been  wrongfully  accuaed :  but  one  poor  fellow,  who 
had  iuat  returned  to  the  village,  and  manifeated  great  alarm 
upon  aeeing  ao  many  "  pale  facaa."  waa  Uken  t  and  failing  to 
prove  hia  innocence,  waa  hurried  away  to  camp  and  plaeed 
under  guard.     Meanwhile,  after  the  greater  part  of  the  oom- 
p«ny  had  returned  to  camp,  and  the  captain  had  aaaemhled  the 
judges,  the  priaoner  waa  arraigned  at  the  bar  for  trial,  and 
the  aolemn  interrogatory,  "Are  you  guUty  or  not  guilty,    waa 
propounded  to  him:   but  to  thia,  hia  only  anawer  waa —  a 
grunt,  the  import  of  which  the  honorable  eoart  not  being  able 
clearly  to  comprehend,  hia  trial  waa  formally  commenced  and 
duly  carried  throurii.    The  evidence  brought  forward  •g««n"* 
him  not  being  aumcientto  euatain  the  charge,  he  waa  fully 
acouitled;  and,  when  releaaed,  »»«/"  for  hia  wigwam  m  the 
Tillage.    After  the  excitement  had  in  aome  degree  aubaided, 
and  the  affair  waa  calmly  conaidered,  it  waa  believed  by  moat  of 
ua  that  the  ialae  alarm  in  regard  to  the  Indiana  had  been  rawed 
with  the  deaign  of  breaking  up  or  poatponing  the  election.    If 
such  WOM  the  deaign,  it  aucceeded  admirably. 

Mail  1 4.  Immediately  after  breakfaal,  the  camp  waa  aaeem- 
bled.  and  proceeded  to  the  eleeUon  of  oftcere  and  the  buameaa 
of  organisation.  The  election  resulted  in  the  choice  of  S.  L. 
Meek,  u  pilot,  and  Doetor  P.  Welch,  formerly  of  Indiana,  as 
captain,  with  a  boet  of  subalterns  t  sueh  aa  lieutsaants,  judges, 

After  these  rnattrn  had  been  dispMed  of,  we  harnessed  op 
our  teams  and  trawled  about  five  miles,  aiul  encamped  with 
Big  Soldier  creek  on  our  right  hand  and  Caw  nver  on  our 

The  next  day  we  were  delayed  in  crossing  Big  Soldier 
ereek,  on  account  of  the  steepness  of  »«•  banks;  and  advanced 
only  twelve  miles  through  a  prairie  country.    Here  sixteen 


TlIB  ROCKY  MOONTAINft 


17 


r,  up  the  prairie, 
t  of  our  eiiToged 
loit  eallle,  drove 
proached  ihe  vil- 
and  fro,  in  ^al 
about  and  hiding 
greeted  our  par>y 
ipe  of  peace,  and 
^ed  with  the  thed 
Dcence ;  and  aueh 
rty  waa  convinced 
poor  fellow,  who 
ealed  great  alarm 
en ;  and  failing  to 
camp  and  plaeed 
part  of  the  com* 
had  aaaemhled  the 
bar  for  trial,  and 
r  not  guilty,"  waa 
•  anawer  waa~» 
lurt  not  being  able 
y  eommeneed  and 
lit  forward  againat 
■rge,  he  waa  fully 
his  wigwam  in  the 
9  degree  aubsided. 
telieved  by  hnost  of 
ma  had  been  raided 
ig  the  election.   If 

le  camp  waa  aaeem- 
re  and  the  buainesa 
ihe  choice  of  8.  L. 
lerly  of  Indiana,  aa 
lieuleaanta,  judgae, 

r,  we  harnessed  up 
uul  encamped  with 
Caw  river  on  our 

oasing  Big  Soldier 
anks;  and  adTaneed 
try.    Here  sixteen 


wagons  separated  from  us,  and  we  were  joined  by  Bfteen 
olhera. 

Mtiy  17.  W*  traveled  eighteen  miles  ovur  a  high,  rolling 
prairie,  i'ud  encamped  on  the  banks  of  Liule  Vermilion  creek, 
in  aight  of  a  Caw  village.  The  principal  chief  leaidea  at  thia 
village.  Our  camp  here  repleniahed  their  atorea;  and,  al- 
though iheae  Indians  may  be  a  set  of  beggarly  thievea,  ttiey 
conducted  themselvea  honorably  in  their  dealings  with  us  ;  in 
view  of  which  we  raised  for  their  benefit  s  contribution  of 
tobseco,  powder,  lead,  die,  and  received  in  return  many  good 
wishes  for  a  pleasant  and  sueoeesful  journey.  After  leaving 
them,  we  traveled  about  twelve  miles  over  a  fertile  prairie.  In 
the  evening,  after  we  had  encamped  and  taken  our  supper,  a 
wedding  was  attended  to  with  peculiar  interest 

May  10.  This  day  our  camp  did  not  rise.  A  growing 
apirit  of  dissatisfaction  had  prevailed  since  Ihe  election;  there 
were  a  great  number  of  disappointed  candidates,  who  were 
unwilling  to  submit  to  the  will  of  the  majority ;  and  to  such 
a  degree  had  a  disorderly  spirit  been  manifested,  that  it  was 
deemed  expedient  to  divide  the  company.  Accordinglv,  it  was 
mutually  agreed  upon,  to  form,  from  the  whol*  body,  three 
eompan'ies;  and  that,  while  eaeh  company  ahould  select  its 
own  officers  and  manage  its  internal  affairs,  the  pilot,  and 
Capt.  Welsh,  who  had  been  elected  by  the  whole  company, 
should  reUin  their  poete,  and  travel  with  the  company  in 
advance.  It  was  also  arranged,  that  each  company  should 
teke  its  turn  in  traveling  in  advance,  for  a  week  at  a  time.^  A 
proposition  waa  then  made  and  acceded  to,  which  provided 
that  a  coUecaun  of  funds,  with  which  to  pay  the  pilot,  should 
be  made  previous  to  the  separation,  and  plaeed  in  the  handa 
ti  some  person  to  be  ohoeen  by  the  wMt,  as  treasurer,  who 
should  give  bonds,  with  approved  security,  for  the  fulfilment 
of  his  duty. 

A  tNssurer  waa  accordingly  chosen,  who  after  giving  the 
neoeasanr  bond^  collected  about  on*  hundred  and  ninety  doU 
lars  of  the  money  promised ;  some  refused  to  pay,  and  othera 
had  no  money  in  their  poasession.  All  these  and  similar  mat- 
ters having  been  SHtisttotorily  arranged,  the  separation  took 
place,  and  the  companies  proceedea  to  the  eleetioB  of  the 
neeeasary  officers.  The  company  to  which  I  bad  attached 
Bvielf,  consisting  of  thirty  wsgons,  insisted  that  I  should 
effieiat*  u  their  captain,  and  with  son*  rslnetmc*  I  eoBseated; 
W»d^p«BM(l  with  nmyxi  the  offiosn  and  IbraiUtiM  wUeh 


1 


11 


JOVKKkh  OF  TIlAVKUi  OVKIl 


•silled  in  Um  former  conpinjr,  tiid  after  adopting  eeriam 
reffulationi  reapecting  the  government  of  the  company,  and 
aettling  other  neeoMary  preliminariea,  we  retired  to  real  for 

the  night.  .1      l      _i. 

Mw  30.    We  have  thie  day  traveled  flfteen  mdea,  throadi 

•  prairie  country,  with  oeeaaionally  a  amall  grove  along  the 

■treama.  ...  ..  

May  ««.  Yeaterday  after  neving  thirteen  milea  we  eroM- 
ed  Big  Vermilion,  and  encamped  a  mile  beyond  iU  weet  bank » 
we  foand  a  limeeloiie  country,  quite  hilly,  indeed  abnoet  ri-oun. 
tainoua.  To-day  we  have  croeaed  Bee,  and  Big  Blue  ere^i 
the  latter  atream  ia  lined  with  oak,  walnut,  and  hiekorv.  We 
encamped  two  and  a  half  milea  weet  of  it.  Daring  the  night 
it  rained  very  h«rd.    Our  eattU  beoanu  frightened  and  all 

'*jJ«f*M.  Made  tOHlay  but  eight  milea.  Our  pilot  notified 
«•  that  thia  would  be  our  laat  opportunity  to  procure  timber 
for  axle  treee,  wagon  Jontuee,  Ac.,  and  we  provided  a  aupply 
of  thie  important  materiaL    Our  cattle  were  all  found. 

MttU  «».  Early  thia  morning  we  were  paaaed  by  Col. 
Keamay  and  hia  perty  of  dragoona,  numbenng  abo«t  thrw 
bundM.  They  have  with  Ihem  nineteen  wagona  drawn  by 
mnlee.  and  drive  fifty  he«l  of  eatUe  and  twentyfive  head  of 
aheep.  They  go  to  the  Sooth  Paaa  of  the  Roeky  Mountawa. 
Our  travel  of  toKlay  and  yeaterday  ia  thirty-two  milea,  dunng 
whieh  we  have  croeaed  aeveral  amall  atreama,  akttted  by 
treea.    The  aoll  looka  fertile.  .  j         nr^ 

Mm  2fi.  Overtook  Capt.  Welah'a  company  tonlay.  We 
peeaed  twelve  milea  through  a  rolUng  prairie  regton,  and  en- 
eamoed  mi  Little  Sandy.  , 

A^  ST.  A»  it  waa  now  the  tnm  of  our  company  to  travel 
in  adVaaoa.  w.  were  joined  by  C^.  We  ah  and  our  pik>t 
The  country  ia  of  the  aame  character  with  that  wa  paaaea 
dm>.gfa  on  yeaterday,  and  ia  highly  adapted  to  the  P^^l^ 
aetdement.  having  a  good  aoU.  and  atreama  weU  Imed  with 

"Afav  »1.  I«  *e  afternoon  of  the  «8th  we  aftrnck  the  Be* 
pnUiSn  fork  of  Blue  River,  along  whieh  f«'^r'^^  »|2 
£e  route  we  were  traveling.  U  banka  *«fi^^'^^^ 
biekory.  and  often  open  out  mto  wide  and  firrtde  botlema. 
hJZJ  there  we  otaerved  eotton  wood  «dwjtto^  The 
pee  vine  growa  wild,  in  great  abnndanceoa  the  bottome.^  TTie 
pn  U  "in""**  then  oor  eommoa  gaiden  pea  sm  aBsioea  tie  e 


THE  BOCKT  MOUNTAnm. 


19 


adopting  etrriain 
he  companyt  and 
•lired  to  nat  for 

«n  mUet,  Ihraagh 
1  grove  aloof  the 

n  milea  we  eroaa* 
>nd  ita  waat  bank  ( 
lead  almoat  ».2un> 

Big  Blue  ereekai 
indniekorv.    We 

Dnring  the  night 
frightened  and  all 

Oar  pilot  notified 
to  procure  timber 
provided  a  lupplj 
9  all  found. 
«  iwaaed  by  OoL 
lertng  abont  thres 
wagona  drawn  by 
weniyfive  head  of 
Roeky  Mountaina. 
r-two  milaa,  during 
treama,  akitted  by 

pany  to^y.  We 
rie  regioo^and  en- 

r  company  to  travel 
lah  and  our  pilot, 
th  that,  we  peaaed 
1  to  the  parfwee  of 
na  well  lined  with 

we  atraek  the  Be* 
for  fifty  milea  lay 
ifiord  oak,  uh  and 
ind  fertile  botteme. 
andwiUow.  The 
tbebottoM.  Tb* 
vaiidnfindidtMit 


pleaMBntvageUble.  Wc  saw  alao  a  few  wild  turkita.  Tonlty 
we  reached  a  point  where  a  trail  turna  from  thia  atrcam,  a  dia« 
Unce  of  twenty-five  milee,  to  the  Platte  or  Nebraska  river. 
We  kept  the  left  hand  route,  and  aome  nine  or  t»sn  milea  bo> 
yood  thia  trail,  we  made  our  laat  encampcaant  on  the  Republi* 

can  Fork.  ,  .         , 

JuM  1.  We  aet  out  at  the  uaual  hour  and  eroaaed  over  the 
country  to  Platte  river ;  having  meaaured  the  road  with  the 
chain,  we  aaocrtained  the  diatanee  to  be  eichleen  and  a  half 
wiles,  from  oar  eneampment  of  laet  night.  It  ia  all  a  rolling 
prairie ;  and  in  one  apot,  we  found  in  poola  a  little  atanding 
water.  Some  two  milee  before  reaching  the  Platte  bottom  the 
prairie  ia  extremely  rough  t  and  aa  far  aa  the  eye  can  reach  up 
and  down  that  river,  it  la  quite  aandy.  We  encamped  near  a 
marahy  »pot,  ooeaaioned  by  the  ovwrflow  of  the  river,  opposite 
an  island  covered  with  timber,  to  which  we  wero  obliged  to  go 
through  the  ahallowa  of  the  river  for  fuel,  aa  the  main  land  ia 
entirely  deatitnte  of  treee.  Near  ua  the  Platte  bottom  ia  three 
and  a  half  milea  wide,  covered  with  excellent  grass,  which  our 
eattle  ale  greedily,  being  attracted  bv  a  aalt  like  aubatanee 
which  oovera  the  grass  and  lies  aprinkled  oc  the  surface  of  the 
ground.  We  obaerved  large  herda  of  antelope  in  our  travel  of 
to-day.    In  the  evening  it  rained  very  hard. 

JuM  9.  Our  week  of  advance  travelin|  being  expired,  we 
reaolvod  to  make  a  abort  drive,  aeleot  a  auitable  epot,  and  lay 
by  for  waahing.  We  aceordingiy  encamped  about  six  milee 
np  Platte  river.  Aa  I  had  been  elected  captain  but  for  two 
weeka,  and  my  term  was  now  expired,  a  new  election  was 
held,  which  reaulted  in  the  choice  of  the  same  peraon.  The 
captain,  Welah,  who  waa  originally  elected  by  all  the  compo- 
niee,  had  been  with  ue  one  week,  and  some  diseataafaelioa  waa 
felt,  by  oar  company,  at  the  decree  of  authority  ha  seemed 
disposed  to  exercise.  We  found,  too,  that  it  was  bad  policy 
to  require  the  aeveral  companies  to  wait  for  each  other;— 
our  supply  of  provision  was  eoosider'^'t  Harely  aufficient  for 
the  journey,  and  it  behoved  ua  make  the  ueat  uae  of  our  time. 
At  presont  one  of  the  companiea  was  supposed  to  be  twaor 
three  daya  travel  in  the  rear.  We  adoptwl  a  resolutioB  desir- 
ing the  sersral  eompaniee  to  abandon  the  arrangement  that  r*> 
quired  each  to  delay  for  the  others ;  and  that  each  company 
should  have  the  use  of  the  pilot  according  to  ita  turn.  Our 
nropoeition  waa  not,  for  the  pveeent,  acoepted  by  the  other 
eonpuiies.    Wlule  we  wew  t  our  wtthiag  eawmpmunt  one 


MHM 


JOURNAL  or  TII*VRij|  OVKR 


of  the  rompaniM  paucd  w,  th«  olh«r  itill  rtmtininf  in  lh« 
n»f.  ^  .    , 

Jtmt  I.  Havhiff  traveled  nbout  tifht  milM,  w«  halted  at 
anon,  making  thnrt  drivea,  to  anabia  tha  raar  company  to  join 
«a.  Wa  have  no  tidinp  of  it  aa  yat.  We  met  eeventy-flve 
tr  eighty  Pawnee  Indiana  returning  Trom  their  apring  hunt. 

Junt  B.  Y«terday  we  traiN?led  iihooi  twelve  milee,  paaainf 
captain  Stephena,  with  hie  advance  company.  ToKlay  we 
traveled  about  the  aame  diatanee,  auffering  Htephena'  eompany 
to  paea  ua.  At  noon  they  were  delayed  by  die  breaking  of  an 
azletree  of  one  of  their  wagone,  and  we  again  paeaed  them, 
gre ady  to  their  offence.  They  reftmed  to  aerede  to  our  terma. 
and  we  determined  to  aet  on  our  own  reeponelbilily.  Wa 
therefor*  diaaolved  our  conneetion  with  the  other  eompankaa, 
and  thenceforward  acted  iadepandenthr  of  them. 

Jutu  6.  We  advanced  twenty  mile*  to^y.  We  iind  a 
good  road,  but  an  utter  abeence  of  ordhnary  fuel.  We  are 
eonipelled  to  aubatitute  for  it  buffalo  dung,  which  buma  freely, 
/ime  7.  We  find  in  our  aixteen  milee  travel  to-day  that 
the  graae  ia  very  poor  in  the  Platte  bottome,  having  been  de- 
vourad  by  the  buffalo  herda.  Theae  bottom*  are  from  two  to 
fotir  mile*  in  width,  and  ara  interaeetad,  at  every  variety  of 
interval,  by  patha  made  by  the  buffaloe*.  firora  the  bluffa  to  the 
river  Thea*  patha  are  remarkabi*  in  their  appearance,  being 
about  Alteon  inchea  wide,  nnd  four  inohe*  deep,  and  worn  into 
the  aoil  aa  amoolhly  aa  they  could  be  cut  with  a  apadr. 

We  formed  our  encampment  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  with 
three  emigrating  companiee  within  aa  many  milee  of  ue  t  two 
above  and  one  below  i  one  of  fifty-two  wagon*,  one  of  thirteen, 
and  one  of  forty-ihrao— our*  having  thirty-aeven.  We  find 
our  eatile  growing  lame,  an<?  moat  of  the  company  are  oeeo- 
pied  in  attempting  to  remedy  the  lameneea.  The  prairie  having 
bMB  burnt,  dry,  aharp  etuba  of  clotted  graa*  remain,  which  are 
Tery  hard,  and  wear  and  irritate  die  fiet  of  the  cattle.  Tha 
foot  beoomea  dry  and  feverieh,  and  craeka  hi  die  opmiing  of 
thj  hoof.  In  thi*  opening  the  rough  bladea  ef  graae  and  dirt 
eollect,  and  the  foot  generally  flMtara,  and  awcB*  very  moeh. 
Oor  mode  of  treating  it  wa*,  to  waah  di*  foot  with  atrong  aoap 
aud*,  aerape  or  cut  away  all  the  diaeaeed  fleah,  and  then  poor 
boiliw  pitch  or  tar  upon  the  aore.  If  applied  early  thi*  rem*, 
dy  will  cure.  Should  tha  haal  baooma  worn  oat,  apply  l*r  or 
uiieh,  and  •ingt  widi  a  hot  hreti.  At  our  eaeampoMBt  tiMUgm 
w*  htw  •boBdMiBt  of  woud  for  fM.  *'      -'  '-'     '^'■"■-     " 


THB  ROCUr  MOUMTAINft 


tl 


I  rtm lining  in  lh« 

ilM,  w«  halttd  at 
r  company  to  join 
mal  afl*«nty-Af« 
)ir  aprinf  hunt. 
ilf«  milM,  paaainf 
my.  To-day  w« 
icphma*  company 
th«  brmking  of  an 
lain  paaaad  iham, 
Md*  lo  our  tcrma, 
iponaibility.  W« 
othm*  compukMt 
icm. 

•day.     Wd  find  • 
ry  fuel.     W«  ura 
rhiflh  burna  freely, 
travel  to-day  that 
I,  haviiw  been  de- 
ne are  from  two  to 
I  e»ery  Tariety  of 
im  ihe'blufla  to  the 
•appeanmee,  being 
eep,  and  worn  into 
iih  a  apade. 
i  of  the  river,  with 
r  miiee  of  ua  t  two 
na,  one  of  thirteen, 
^•Mven.    We  And 
comptny  are  oeea- 
The  prairie  having 
r  remain,  whieh  are 
)f  the  cattle.    The 
In  the  opening  of 
a  ef  grua  and  dirt 
awella  very  much, 
oi  with  atrong  eoep 
leeh,  and  then  pwnr 
lied  early  thie  nme- 
>m  out,  apply  tar  or 
netrapoMBt  tiMdgbt 


Jun*  8.  We  advanced  to-day  about  twelve  milaa.  The 
bntiom  near  our  camp  ia  narrow,  but  abounda  in  limber,  b«in| 
covered  with  aah  j  it.  however,  aflbrda  p«or  groiinn.  80  far 
aa  we- have  traveled  along  the  Plaue,  we  flitd  numeroua 
iaUnda  iu  the  river,  and  aoma  of  them  quite  large.  In  the 
evening  a  roung  man,  named  Foater.  waa  woundi^d  by  the 
accidental  diacharge  of  a  gun.  The  loaded  we«pon,  from 
which  ita  owner  had  neglected  to  remove  the  rap,  waa  placed 
at  the  Uil  of  a  wagon ;  aa  aome  one  waa  lakinfc  out  a  unl- 
eloth,  the  gun  waa  knocked  down,  and  went  otf.  Tlie  ball 
peeaed  through  a  ap<ike  of  the  wagon-wheel,  atruek  the  felloe, 
and  glanced.  Foeter  waa  walking  tome  two  rode  from  the 
wagon,  when  the  half  apent  ball  atraek  him  in  the  back,  near 
the  aplne;  and,  entering  between  the  »k\n  and  the  ribe,  came 
out  about  tliree  inehea  from  where  it  entered,  making  merely 
•  8eah  wound,  k  amall  fragment  of  the  ball  bad  lodged  in 
his  arm. 

Junt  9.  The  morning  ia  rainy.  To^r  we  paaaed  Ste- 
phens* eompany,  whieh  naaaed  ue  on  yesterday.  Our  diaaen< 
sions  are  all  healed ;  and  th«iy  have  decided  to  act  upon  our 
plan. 

Junt  10.  Yeetitrdsy  we  traveled  flfWen  milea;  to-day  the 
esme  diatanee.  We  ind  t,1e  graiing  continues  iMwr.  In 
getting  to  oar  eneampnent,  we  passed  through  a  Isrge  dog 
town.  Theee  sinjralar  communities  may  be  aeen  often,  along 
the  banks  of  the  Plalle,  oceupying  varioua  areas,  from  one  to 
five  hundred  sores.  The  one  in  question  covered  some  two 
hundred  or  three  hundred  acree.  The  prairie-dog  ie  some* 
thing  Urger  than  s  eommon  sised  gray  aquirrel,  of  •  dun  color ; 
the  Lead  reeemblea  that  of  a  bull  dog:  the  taU  is  about  three 
Inehee  In  lengUi.  Their  food  ia  prairie  graas.  Like  rab,Nls, 
they  barrow  in  the  ground,  throwing  out  hesps  of  earth,  and 
often  large  stones,  which  remsin  at  tn^  mouth  of  their  holee. 
The  entranee  to  their  barrows  is  sboat  four  Inches  in  diameter, 
and  nras  obliqudy  into  the  earth  about  three  feet,  when  the 
holes  ramiiy  in  every  direction  and  connect  with  each  other 
on  everr  efde.  Some  kind  of  jpoliee  aeems  to  ht  obserred 
among  raem  1  for  at  the  spproMli  of  man,  one  of  the  dogs  will 
ran  to  the  entrance  of  s  burrow,  end,  squatting  down,  utter  t 
shrill  btrk.  At  onee,  the  smaller  part  of  the  eomnanity  will 
rotroat  to  thoir  holM,  while  Mmbete  of  the  larger  dogs  will 
•qnst,  Uko  the  irst,  at  their  doors,  and  nnito  in  the  barking. 
A  Mtt  approKh  drives  thtm  ill  aader  grotmd.    It  is  singtiUr. 


r 


I 


|g  JOUIIMAt  or  THAVKUI  OVtM 

iMl  lru«.  Owl  lh«  liiiU  •crtwh-owl  •nd  Um  imlUtiir.!.*  kMp 
(h«nt  «»inp«ny  in  lh«ir  burro wt.  I  h«»«  frtqu'i  '  i«n  tlit 
owU,  bul  no»  U»e  ••)•>»•.  wilh  th«ni.  Tha  iiioum»u»««r«.  how- 
•var.  inform  m*.  »h«i  lh«y  ofiiin  ctif  h  all  Uira*  in  Oia  mom 
hola.  Tha  dog  la  aauin  by  Uia  In«lt<ina.  wiUi  quiia  •  raliah » 
Md  oftwi  by  Iha  nounuinaara.  I  am  noi  preparad  to  apaak 
of  in  quidiuaa  aa  an  arUola  of  food.  „     „,  ,         . 

Durinc  iha  nifhi,  a  muU,  baloiif iii(  to  a  Mr.  Rialay,  of  our 
rompany.  broka  from  iia  laihar.  and  in  aUampiing  Ui  a«3ura  it, 
iu  ownar  wae  rapwltdly  ahoi  al  by  iha  guard ;  but,  foriu- 
naialy  waa  nol  hit.     Ha  had  run  from  hia  lant  wiihoui  having 

baan  p«'««i»«J  ^V  ^*  •"•^»  "^  *•*  """l'?!  "*"  •*'1 
fround.  andaavoring  to  aaiia  Um  trail  ropa,  which  *«•  |»«d 
To  hia  mula'a  n«jli.  Tha  guard  mUtook  him  for  an  IndUn, 
Uviof  to  au»al  horaaa,  and  oaliad  to  him  aataral  limea ;  bul  a 
high  wind  blowing  ha  did  not  haar.  Tha  guard  la»alad  and 
firad,  but  hia  gun  did  not  go  off.  Anothar  guard,  atuiduig 
nmt,  praaanlad  hia  piaoa  and  Ar«l  5  tha  cap  buraw  wllhoul 
diaohtrging  tha  Uwd.  Tha  Aral  guard,  by  Uiia  tima  praparad, 
Arad  a  awond  tima,  without  affact  By  ihia  tuna  the  camp 
waa  rouaad.  and  nearly  all  aaiiad  ihair  Araarma,  whan  wa 
dUeovarad  that  tha  auppoaad  Indiaa  waa  ona  of  our  own  party. 
Wa  ragardad  it  aa  providoniial  that  the  man  aacapad,  aa  tbf 
cuard  waa  a  good  ahot,  and  hia  mark  waa  not  mora  than  an|hty 
yarda  diannu  Thia  incident  mMie  ua  aomewhit  mora  oauUoua 
•bout  leaving  tha  rarap.  wiUiout  noUfying  the  fu«rd- 

Jtau  II.    T<Mlay  we  Imelad  ten  or  tweira  mUea.     Bill 
mUea  brought  oa  to  tha    •  -«  .'.oat^ng  of  PUtta  riyer,  wUwh 
i.  Ave  oTaLi  milea  abof*  W    -  .1  *,  ^  wber«  'ho hi,h r««'»;^ 
commence  between  t>     '  •  c  *«^.  • .    Thera  ..  i  ir.il  which 
turna  over  the  bluff  to  tin*  kill  we  however  took  the  r^ht, 
and  croeeed  the  river.    The  aouth  fork  ia  at  thia  place  about 
one  fourth  of  a  miU  wide,  ami  from  one  to  ihrae  feet  deen,  with 
aaandr  bottom,  which  made  the  fording  eo  heavy  that  we 
w"e  «impeUed  to  double  temna.    The  water  Oirough  the  day 
ia  warm ;  but  aa  Uie  nighU  are  eool,  it  ia  quiM  cool  enough  in 
he  momkig.    On  the  weat  bmik  of  the  river  wi.  encamped 
Brawn'a  e7mp«iv,  which  paaaed  ua  whiUt  we  were  o^"»»"« 
et  Caw  River.    We  paaaed  Uiam,.nd  proceeded  ^\^» 
wMt  aide  of  the  aoatli  fork,  and  encamped  on  the  nver  benn. 
At  nicht  our  bunten  brought  in  eome  buffalo  meat. 
J2U  iT  y«Su-^  wa  followed  iht  river  aW«t  thirteen 


TNll  HOOKY  MOUNT  AIWA 


r«llliiin«V«  kMp 
«qu'  >'  i*n  ill* 
ouiiuuM«ra,  how* 
>ir«<t  in  th«  Mm* 
h  <|uit«  a  rsliah  i 
trapwati  to  apuk 

f  r.  Rialay.  of  mu 
piuif  to  a««ura  it, 
[uaru;  bul,  Tortu* 
int  wtlhuul  having 
cmwling  o«ar  lh« 
,  whkh  waa  liad 
im  for  an  IndUo« 
aral  limaa  s  but  a 
guard  lavalad  and 
ir  fuard,  atanding 
tap  bum,  without 
hia  tima  praparad, 
lia  lioM  tho  camp 
re-arma,  whan  w« 
I  of  our  own  party, 
tn  «a«ap*d,  aa  tb« 
tt  mora  than  eighty 
iirhatmorvoauuoua 
la  guard. 

weTv*  milta.  Six 
PUtI*  rivar.  which 
arc  *hc  hi({h  grouitu 
»ra  ^.  1  trail  which 
ar  took  the  right. 
A  thia  plaeo  about 
hrec  fact  deep,  with 
ao  hoavy  that  w« 
ler  through  tha  day 
uila  eool  enough  in 
iver  waa  encaniMd 
wa  wara  oif  uiiing 
ocaedad  alone  tha 
on  tha  riror  Dank. 

lo  BIMt* 

rifcr  tboat  thirteen 
MKMdbelwMnthn 


two  forka  aUihM  ar roaa  tha  ridga  toward  tha  Ncrth  fork.  To* 
day  wa  have  followad  that  route:  diraclly  acroaa,  the  diaUnc* 
doaa  not  aicaad  four  milaa  i  but  the  road  nma  nbhqualy  ba« 
twtan  tha  two  ■Iraama,  and  r«arhea  <h«  Nu/lh  fork  about  nine 
Biilea  from  our  laat  camp.  Wa  found  quita  a  hill  to  daaceiid, 
M  the  road  runa  up  the  bollom  a  half  mile  and  then  aarrnda 
the  bluff.  Emigranu  ahould  keep  the  bluff  aiitacn  or  a«van« 
lean  Milee.  We  deeeeoded  a  ravine  and  raated  ou  the  bank 
tt  the  river. 

Jyna  1ft.  Yeatarday  we  advanced  eight  miiea,  and  halted 
lo  waah  and  r«  <  our  team*.  W«  have  remained  all  thia  day 
in  camp.  At  dayligtit  ■  herd  of  buffalo  apprunched  near  the 
eamp  t  they  were  croaaing  the  river,  but  aa  aoon  aa  they 
eauf  hi  the  aeent.  they  ratreaud  lo  the  other  aid«.  It  waa  • 
laughable  aight  to  aae  them  running  in  tha  wausr.  Some  of 
our  men  having '>een  out  with  their  guna.  raUirued  at  nuon 
overloaded  with  buffalo  m;ini.  We  then  commenced  jerking 
It.  Thia  ia  a  pr(M>*aa  reaorted  to  for  want  of  time  or  meana  to 
aura  meal  by  aalling.  The  meat  ia  aliced  tliin,  and  a  aeaffold 
prepared,  by  aetling  forka  in  the  ground,  about  thr»)  feet  htth, 
and  laying  email  pdea  or  aticka  rroaawiae  upon  them.  The 
meat  ia  laid  upon  thnae  piecea,  and  a  alow  Are  built  beneath  | 
iIm  heat  and  amoke  eompiatee  the  proeeaa  in  half  a  day  |  and 
with  an  eeeaeional  eunning  the  meat  will  kenp  for  month*. 

An  unoccupied  apeelator,  who  could  have  behold  ovr  camp 
tOHiay,  would  think  it  a  aiogular  apcclacle.  The  hunter* 
returpinx  with  the  ajpoU  i  aome  ereetiiig  aeaffulda,  and  other* 
drying  tne  menl.  Of  the  women,  eome  were  waahing,  aom* 
ironing,  aome  baking.  At  two  of  tho  tenia  the  fiddle  wa* 
employed  in  uttering  ila  unaeouaiomed  voice  among  the  aolip 
tad**  of  the  Platte  i  at  one  lent  I  heard  ainging ;  at  other*  til* 
ocflupeni*  were  engamd  in  reading,  aome  the  Bible,  other* 
poring  ofer  novele.  while  all  thia  waa  going  on,  tliat  nothing 
night  be  wanting  to  eonplele  the  harmony  of  the  aeene,  » 
Caapbollit*  pmaeher,  named  Foeter,  waa  reading  a  hymn« 
pr«pamtory  to  religioua  worahip.  The  fiddlea  war*  ailenced, 
and  tho**  who  kaid  b*en  occupied  with  that  amuaement,  b&- 
took  th*aa*lv**  lo  eard*.  Such  ia  but  a  miniature  of  tli* 
great  w*rkl  w*  had  left  behind  ua,  when  we  croeaed  the  lin* 
that  aepMite*  einliied  man  from  the  wildemea*.  Bul  oveo 
her*  Ih*  varlMy  of  oc«upation,  th*  Mtive  esereia*  of  bodpr  and 
■uad.  *idi*r  in  labor  or  ^oasur*.  th*  eommiugltng  of  avtl  nod 
fM4  jImw  d|*l  lb*  UImm**  fal  •  Iro*  OB*^ 


14 


JOURNAL  or  TRAVBLB  OVK« 


Joiie  17.  On  o«r  tmwl  of  eight  mlM .  y"^«?*yvr* 
found  the  blufib  quite  ht^jh,  oR^n  .ppro»ch.«|  wuli  /'''"r^^V 
fronu  to  the  w.ter'i  «dge.  .nd  now  aiM)  then  .  cejltr  not.dln. 
.'Te  top.  Our  2«nip,  Jwt  niiht,  wh  in  «  cedtr  end  mR 
Ire!  wifh  .  high.  JVoinlng  MuIt  o»erh..glrt  J.  I  b«t  •  wW. 
bPttom  with  fine  gnm  •round  ua,  wjiA  naw  at  hand  an  txeel- 
E  .pirr  To  JK  fi»e  mHea  o»er  the  ridge  brought  uf  ta 
Act  Bolif ;.  Heri  the  trail,  whieh  f^^^^zhiT:^ll 
the  South  fork  of  Platte,  from  where  we  «™^ '•' ~"^ 
with  thia  trail.  The  road  then  tome  down  Aah  Hollow  lo  the 
rim  Tquarter  of  a  mile  from  the  latter  ie  a  An*  •prlng,  and 
Ground  it  woS  and  graM  in  abnndanoe.    Oar  road,  to^y.  hae 

pre«ntinj  perpendicular  elift  of  Jir^  hundred  fog  high.  We 
p...ed  two  compeniee.  both  of  whleh  wo  had  beforo  ojjed^ 
tut  whilat  w.  wVre  lying  br  on  *•  North  fork,  thty  h^  tm. 
veled  up  the  South  fork  and  deioended  A*  W»"«J»-^^^  p^ 

June  IS.  We  mete  company  of  moontaineereflfomrort 
T*/Mnie  who  had  aUrled  for  the  aelUeroente  earty  in  the 
^.^n  Wuh%.;Lu  loaded  -W' J^'T.lo  ro^JJ^  «d  «gj« 
articles  of  ludlin  traffic.  The  rim  beeame  •«  ^''' J^^J 
"ere  obliged  to  lay  by,  part  of  »h«  co-npjj^  hjdrojwnj^^ 
the  fort  for  teame ;  othera  were  at  the  b<»t  tending,  wmw 
Sien  of  Ae  p."y  were  footi«  their  w.y  to  .»|e2*^.TW 
were  a  iolly  Mt  of  fellowa.  Pcur  wagone  joinod  Mfto«  «>»• 
TfToff  diriaicma.  and  among  them  wu  John  No»-on.  wuh 
hU  family,  formerly  of  FrjnkUn  cjmly.  Indtej^^  tra- 

veled fifteen  mUaa,  paaeing C»P«"i»8™i* •  «*«|2J-  _,,. , 

June  19.    FiTO  milee,  to-day,  biwight  ue  to  Bl^nf  fT*  j 

elevrmilo-  forther  to  «.other  "^i^*»«  "SiS^SSS^ 
could  not  aaceruin  t  there  we  encamped,  oppoelle  the  «»ottlary 
??wer  S  .Inpiler  natural  object  i.  •.•««P«<»T.P"S''k 
MnHnd  day,  «>  cemented  aa  to  tumble  atone,  tut  wh«h 
■crol^M«w?f  atthe  alighteat  tou J.  .^^^I'XjTi 
aeten  mile,  distant  from  the  mouth  ^f  »»»•  «J»J « thlTSUr 
appear,  to  be  not  moro  than  three.    The  hekh  «  «»J»T; 
is  somewhere  between  six  h«n««"l  •?f  j'S"  1^  A.  hi! 
f«.m  iha  level  of  the  river.    Viewed  flfom  the  port,  the  »•• 
hollr  milre.;  ly^^^^^^^     he  w-  gaxing  "PO",-"'^*^! 
Sti^  of  the  old  wSrld.    A  neater  tppro^i  ^^V^^J; 
iUuslon,  and  it  look.,  aa  it  is.  ro«gh  and  l^^^'^^'^J^ 
umiM,  at  it.  north  •W'^^'OT  •H-b.rinjttp  »5»  «^^ 
having  been  cut  In  it.  fcee  fotr  that  ^rpoM.     n»«  •«ono,  qr 


■■^^igwwa— — ^Ki*!— 


THE  ROCKY  MOVNTAmi. 


36 


M,  yesterday,  we 
If  witU  their  rocky 
n  a  ee<l«r  notiding 
t  t  eedtr  and  asn 
ipf  oa }  but  a  wide 
>  ail  hand  an  exeel* 
•idte  brooght  uc  to 
a  the  eaat  aide  of 
roaeed  il,  eonneola 
Ash  Hollow  10  Uia 

a  Am  spring,  end 
ar  road,  to-day,  has 
lly  rofihy,  at  tiotea 
dred  feet  high.  We 
lad  beforo  paseed; 
,  fork,  they  h«d  trap 
h  Hollow, 
ntaioeere  from  Foit 
nents  early  in  the 
Jorobee,  and  other 
ne  so  low.  that  they 
any  had  returned  to 
boat  landing,  while 
oiNeBtalMi.    They 
I  joined  OS  fVom  one 
■  John  Nebon,  with 

Indiana.  We  trf 
,*a  eenpany. 
ue  to  spring  ereekt 
lO  name  of  which  I 
oppoelle  the  Solitary 
a  Btupendooe  pile  of 
ble  stone,  kut  whieh 
eoneeivo  it  is  aboat 
he  oreek;  though  It 

height  of  this  tower 
1  eight  hundred  foot 
m  Sie  road,  Ae  bo- 
kg  upon  some  aneient 
ipproaeh  dispsls  the 
nnseemly.  m  etn  bo 
gttpthetrook;  hdea 
m,    'nt6iM0Bd,qr 


main  bench,  can  be  ascendrti  with  greater  ease  at  an  opening 
on  the  south  side,  where  the  water  hHs  washed  out  a  crevice 
large  enough  to  Silrnit  the  body ;  so  that  by  pushing  arainst 
the  sides  of  the  cievi::e  one  can  forue  himselr  upward  fifteen 
or  twenty  Teet,  which  p!aces  the  aiivontiixer  on  the  slope  of 
the  second  b«nch.  Passing  round  the  eastern  point  of  the 
tower,  the  ascent  may  be  continued  up  its  north  face.  A 
stream  of  water  rune  along  the  north-easlarn  side,  some 
twenty  rods  distant  from  the  tower ;  and  deep  ravines  sre  cut 
out  by  the  washing  of  the  water  from  the  t  twer  to  the  creek. 
Near  by  sUnds  snoiher  pile  of  materials,  simiiar  to  that  com- 
posing  the  tower,  hut  neither  so  Urge  nor  so  high.  The 
bhifls  in  this  vicinity  appear  to  be  o**  the  same  material.  Bo- 
tween  this  tower  and  the  river  stretchee  out  a  rolling  plain, 
barren  and  desolate  enough. 

Jwte  80.  Traveling  fourteen  miles,  we  baited  in  the  neigh- 
bprhood  of  the  Chimney  Rock.  This  is  a  sharp-pointed 
rock,  of  nvtich  the  same  material  as  the  Solidary  Tower,  stand- 
ing at  the  base  of  the  bluflT,  and  four  or  five  miles  from  the 
road.  It  is  visible  at  a  distance  of  thirty  mil-v?,  and  has  the 
unpoetical  appearance  of  a  hay-stack,  with  a  poie  running  &r 
above  its  top. 

June  24.  Since  the  20th  we  have  traveled  about  sixty-two 
milee,  and  are  now  at  Fort  Laramie ;  making  our  whole  travel 
from  Independence  about  six  hundred  and  thirty  miles.  On 
the  22d  we  passed  over  ScoU's  Bluffs,  where  we  found  « 
good  spring,  and  abundance  of  wood  and  grass.  A  melan- 
choly tradition  accounts  for  the  name  of  tins  spot.  A  party 
who  had  been  trading  with  the  Indians  were  returning  to  the 
States,  and  encountering  a  band  of  hostile  savaces,  were  robbed 
of  their  peltries  and  food.  As  they  struggled  homeward,  one 
of  the  number,  nam?'*  Sooit,  fell  sick  and  could  not  travel. 
The  otiien  remained  with  him,  until  the  sufferer,  despairing 
of  ever  beholding  his  home,  prevailed  on  his  companions  to 
abandon  him.  They  leA  him  alone  in  the  wilderness,  several 
miles  from  this  spot  Here  human  bones  were  aAerwards 
found;  and,  suppcwing  he  had  crawled  here  and  died,  the  sub* 
sequent  tnvelera  have  given  his  name  to  the  neighboring 
bluff.  8  » 

June  85.  Our  camp  is  stationary  to-day ;  part  of  the  emi- 
granU  are  shoeing  their  horses  and  l  jcen ;  othen  sre  trading 
at  tlie  fort  and  with  the  Indiani^  Flour,  sugar,  cofl'ee,  tea,  to- 
bacco, powder  and  lead,  sell  r^dily,  at  high  prices.    In  the 


iw&ikMMaHMVaUa 


MMaMnMMxaMnMiWMHnuK 


is 


JOORNAI.  OF  TRAVKLB  OVER 


afternoon  v,«  rt»e  the  Indians  a  fewt,  »nd  held  a  long  iajk 
^Zm.    L?ch  family.  «  they  could  beat  -Pa;*  ";  «J"J;; 
hated  a  Dortion  of  bread,  meat,  coffeo  or  augar.  which  be  ng 
cr»id.Kbl!;  wa.  aet  by  apreaJhg  buffJo  .km.  upon  the 
n*ft.,«^    and  arrai.jrirt»  the  prorieion.  upon  them.    Aroond 
S?.  "ftracSve  b3  tEe  Indian  chief.  anJtheir  principal  men 
i^"ttS  tTem.eWe..  .Iccupying  one  fou.lh  of  '^f  ««»« I  STiTt 
n..indflr  of  the  male  Indians  made  out  the  wmi-cirtlo;  the  re.t 
SeVirdewreompleted  by  »he  white..    The.qu.w.«d 
vounwr  Indian,  formed  an  outer  wsmi  circular  row  nnmedi- 
JS^jChSd  their  duaky  lord,  and  fathers.  JT? C"  ^S 
warrior,  were  now  designated  a.  waiters,  and  «H  *h«.Pf  P"«- 
Jon"  Sing  completed,  the  Indian  chief.  •"«»  P"-*?'?"!""*" 
.Zk  iMinS..  and  at  a  .ignal  the  white  chief  performed  the 
;lme  ceremony,  commencing  with  the  principal  chwf.  and 
.Sng  hirand  tho«e  of  hi.  follower,  who  compoaed  the  ftr.t 
dSrof  the  circle,  the  other,  being  eoneidered  mfenor.. 

ThJ  telk  pr^eS'^e  dinner.  A  trader  acted  a.  i«U^«t«r 
The  chief  informed  ua.  that  -  a  long  while  ago  •<>"•  *tVi"* 
p«.s«l  up  the  Missouri,  through  hi.  country.  «y"W  *£''*'* 
Ee  re^l  man',  friend.,  and  that  a.  the  red  roan  found  them,  w 
•«dd  hrfind  alt  the  other  pale  face..  Thi.  country  belong. 
toThe  5rt  man,  but  hi.  white  brethren  travel,  thwugh,  .hoot- 

thf t  he  Sepend.  upon  to  .npport  his  wives  and  f >»•""".  The 
Sldren  oFihe  redSnan  cry  for  foa^^«  *"«  '"JL"^^  ^e 
on  the  other  hand,  the  Indian  profits  by  the  ^J^^ 
white  man.  He  wa.  riad  to  «>•  u.  -nd  "^^.-^S-t; 
It  wa.  the  custom  when  the  pde  fcoe.  P^^^'WjT" 
IZ^,  to  make  preaenm  to  the  Indian,  of  fowiet^J^^.  Jc. 
mBttlbt  wa.  Tcry  numerou.,  but  the  mo.t  of  Oie  people  h«l 
S.netoJmo«Sin.tohttBt.  Before  the  white  man^ejime. 
Se  game  wa.  tame,  and  e..ily  caught,  with  •»»•  ^ow  "dar. 
WW  Now  the  white  man  ha.  frif^iteBed  i»,  and  the  red  man 
"r.'t  go  to  the  mountain.,  m  red  man  tmAtA  loi«  gun./' 
Thi.,  with  much  more  of  the  like,  made  up  Uie  t.&  of  the 
ohief.  when  a  reply  from  ©w  •«•  w»  expect^. 

S  iTd"olved  on  me  to  play  the  part  of  the  wb.hich«U 
told  my  red  brethren,  that  we  were  i^»rJ»i.^Jl^ 
water,  of  the  wwt.  Our  great  father  owned  a  luff  -oon^ 
Tere,  .nd  we  were  going  to  .etae  upon  it.  F«' *-P«^. 
we  brought  with  u.  our  wife,  and  litUe  one..    We  w*re  com- 


TIOB  ROCKY  MOVNTiI.<n. 


17 


icid  a  long  talk 
I  spare  it,  contri- 
^r,  which  being 
•kin*  upon  the 
them.    Aroaml 
sir  principal  men 
le  circle ;  the  re- 
li-circlo;  ihe  reat 
The  squawa  ami 
liar  row  iinmedi- 
Two  aiout  youug 
1  M  the  preparw- 
id  prineipal  men 
ief  performed  the 
incipal  chief,  and 
sompoaed  the  ftrat 
uidered  inferiora, 

;ted  as  lAterpreter. 
■onse  white  ohieA 
•aying  they  were 
an  foand  them«  ao 
a  country  belongs 
)ls  through,  ahool* 
he  Indian  loeea  mil 
nd  ehiMien.    The 
ire  ia  no  food.  But 
he  trade  with  the 
neet  ?s  as  friends. 
taased  tlinwgh  hia 
'  powder,  lead^  &». 
;  of  the  people  had 
)  white  man  came, 
h  the  bow  and  ar« 
H,  and  the  red  man 
leaded  long  guna." 
up  the  ta&  of  the 

BCU?d. 

f  the  while  ehicf,  I 
leying  to  the  great 
ned  a  lane  eoantry 
For  Aia  purpose 
Bs.    We  were  com- 


pelled to  pass  through  the  red  man'a  country,  but  we  traveled 
aa  friends,  and  not  as  enemies.  As  friends  we  feasted  them, 
shook  them  by  the  hand,  and  smoked  with  them  the  pipe  of 
peace.  They  must  know  that  we  came  among  them  as  friends, 
for  we  brouffhl  with  ua  our  wivea  and  children.  The  red  man 
doea  not  tue  his  squawa  into  battle :  neither  doea  the  pale 
face.  But  friendly  as  we  felt,  we  were  ready  for  enemies ; 
and  if  molested,  we  should  punish  the  offenders.  Some  of  us 
expected  to  return.  Our  fathers,  our  brothers  and  our  chiklreii 
were  coming  behind  us,  and  we  hoped  the  red  man  would 
treat  them  kindly.  We  did  not  expect  to  neet  so  many  of 
them ;  we  were  glad  to  see  them,  and  to  hear  that  they  were 
the  whit*  man's  friends.  Wo  met  peacefully— eo  let  us  part. 
We  had  set  them  a  feast,  and  were  glad  to  hold  a  talk  with 
them ;  bat  wo  were  not  traders,  and  had  no  powder  or  ball  to 
give  them.  We  were  going  tu  plough  and  to  plant  the  zround, 
and  had  nothing  more  Uian  we  needed  for  ouraeWes.  we  told 
tliem  to  oat  what  was  before  them,  and  be  aatisfied ;  and  that 
we  had  nothing  moie  to  aay. 

The  two  Indian  servants  began  their  servieea  by  placing  a 
tin  cup  before  eaeh  of  the  guests,  alwaya  waiting  firat  upon  the 
chiefa ;  they  then  diatribnted  the  bread  and  cakes,  until  each 
peraoD  had  aa  much  aa  it  was  supposed  he  would  eat}  the  re- 
mainder  being  delivefed  to  two  aquawa,  who  in  like  manner 
aerved  the  aquawa  and  ehiklren.  The  waitera  then  distrRMited 
the  meat  and  eoffee.  All  waa  order.  No  one  touched  the 
food  before  him  until  all  were  aenred,  whe.i  at  ■  aignal  from  the 
chief  the  eating  began.  Having  filled  themselves,  the  Indiana 
retired,  taking  with  th«m  all  that  they  were  mable  to  eat. 
/  Thia  is  a  braneh  of  the  Sioux  nation,  and  tiiose  living  in  this 
r^ion  number  near  fiAeen  hundred  lodges.  They  are  a  healthy, 
atbletie,  gootl4ooking  aet  (^  men,  and  have  aecordinf  to  the 
Indian  eode,  a  reapeclaUe  sense  of  honor,  but  will  steal  when 
they  can  do  so  without  fear  of  detection.  On  this  occasion, 
however,  we  miaaed  nothing  but  a  frying  pan*  which  a  squaw 
slipped  under  her  blanket,  and  made  off  with.  Aa  it  was  a 
trifliof  loss,  we  made  no  complaint  to  the  chief.  ' 

Here  are  two  forta.  Fort  Laramie,  aitualed  upon  the  west 
side  of  Laramie'a  fork,  two  milea  from  Platte  river,  belonga  to 
the  North  ijoeriean  Fur  Company.  The  fort  ia  built  of 
tubfba.  The  walla  are  about  two  feet  thick,  and  twelve  or 
fourteen  feet  high,  the  tops  being  picketed  or  apiked.  Posts 
are  planted  in  uese  walls,  and  aupportthe  timber  for  the  roof. 


|g  JOVRNAI.  OF  TRAVELS  OVER 

They  are  then  cotered  with  mud.    In  the  centie  ie  j»n  open 
square,  peihapa  iwenty-five  yard-  each  way,  along  the  aide* 
of  which  are  ranged  the  dwellings,  alore  roomB.8mith  shop, 
carpenier'a  8lu)p,  offices,  &o  ,  all  fronling  upon  the  "»n«area. 
There  are  two  principal  entrances ;  one  at  the  north,  the  oth- 
er at  the  Bouih.    On  the  eastern  side  w  an  additional  wall, 
cnnnecled  at  its  extremities  with  the  first,  enclosing  ground  for 
•table*  and  earrtU.    This  enclosure  hae  a  gateway  upon  lU 
south  aide,  and  a  paasage  into  the  square  of  the  pnncipal  en- 
elosuie.     At  a  ahort  diaunce  from  the  fort  la  »  fteW  of  about 
four  acres,  in  which,  by  way  of  experiment,  corn  la  planted ; 
but  from  iu  preaent  appearance  it  will  probably  prote  a  rail- 
ure.    Port  John  aUnda  about  a  mile  below  Fort  Laramie,  and 
U  buUt  of  the  same  material  as  the  latter,  but  u  not  so  e«l«a- 
aive.    Its  present  occupants  are  a  company  firom  St.  Louis. 

June  26.  TKis  day,  leaving  Fort  Laramie  behind  us,  we 
advanced  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  into  the  vast  regKm  J«t 
waa  atill  between  ua  and  our  deatioation.  Alter  moving  five 
mil<!s,  we  found  a  good  apot  for  a  eamp,  and  as  oar  teama  attU 
required  leat,  we  halted  and  encamped,  and  determiBed  to  re- 
pose unul  Saturday  the  asth. 

June  28.  A  drive  of  ten  miles  brought  M  to  Big  t»prtng,  • 
creek  which  bursts  out  at  the  bMO  of  a  hill,  and  rona  down  * 
aandy  hollow.  The  spring  is  one  fourth  of  a  mile  belowthe 
road.  We  foimd  the  water  too  warm  to  be  pw«««We.  Five 
miles  beyond  the  ereek  the  road  forka;  *•  «<»t  »ha  nght  hand 
trail,  which  ia  the  best  of  the  two,  and  traversed  the  Blacfc  HUM, 
as  they  are  called.  The  season  hae  been  ao  dry  that  vegeUUon 
ia  literally  parched  up;  of  coursa  the  graaing  is  miscrrtle. 
After  proceeding  eighteen  miles  we  encamped  on  Bitter  Cot- 
tonwood. _!.    41.      -I. 

June  29.  To-dav  we  find  the  country  venr  rough,  though 
our  road  is  not  bad."  In  the  morning  eome  of  our  cattle  were 
missing,  and  four  of  the  company  started  back  to  hunt  for  them. 
At  the  end  of  fourteen  milea  we  reeled  at'Horae  Shoe  creek, 
a  beautiful  stream  of  clear  water,  lined  with  tteee,  and  with 
wide  bottoms  on  each  sWe.  covered  with  excellent  grass.  At 
this  point  our  road  waa  about  three  miles  from  the  river. 

Juh  1.  As  ihe  men  who  left  the  company  on  the  Mth, 
to  look  for  our  lost  cattle,  were  toot  returned,  we  remained  m 

•  Knee  the  abovs  waa  writtea.  the  NoHh  American  Fer  Qoaapany  hdt 

|Nin!ha«dFortJ6hD.uiddemoiiiihedit  '   ,vi  ; .ujsu- .  ,.- 


TRB  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


mtit  iff  «n  opon 
,  mlonf  the  •ides 
onifl,  imith  shop, 
on  the  innet  trea. 
he  north,  the  oth- 
I  udditioml  wall, 
Bloeing  ground  for 
giusway  upon  iu 
the  principal  en- 
R  a  field  of  about 

corn  is  planted ; 
My  prove  a  faiU 
Port  jLaramie,  and 
t  ia  not  ao  ezten- 
firom  St.  Louia.* 
nie  behind  w,  we 
be  vaat  region  that 

After  moving  five 
1  as  oar  teama  atiU 
i  determiaed  to  re> 

ae  to  Big  Spring,  a 
I,  and  mns  down  a 
r  a  mile  below  the 
w  palatable.    Five 
look  the  right  hand 
■ed  the  Black  Hills, 
)  dry  that  vegetation 
aitng  is  miserable, 
nped  on  Bitter  Cot- 
very  roogh,  though 
I  of  our  cattle  were 
ick  to  hunt  for  them, 
t  Horse  Shoe  creek, 
flih  trees,  and  with 
excellent  grass.    At 
rmm  the  river, 
npany  on  the  SOth, 
led,  we  remsined  in 

on  For  Comfuafhit 


camp  yesterday.  Qame  ■eomnd  Hbundnnt  along  the  rrefk, 
And  our  eflbrta  to  protit  by  it  were  rewarded  with  three  elk 
and  three  deer.  To-day  our  eatUe  huntera  still  remain  behind. 
We  aent  buck  a  reinforcement,  and  hitching  up  our  teams 
advanced  about  aixlecn  milee.  Eight  niilra  brought  ua  to  the 
Dallea  of  Platte,  where  the  river  burata  through  a  moanuin 
epur.  Perpendicular  clifla,  rising  abruptly  from  the  water, 
five  hundred  or  aix  hundred  feet  high,  form  the  left  bank  of  the 
river.  Theae  clifia  present  vnrious  strata,  some  resembling 
flint,  othera  like  marble,  lime,  itc.  The  moat  intereating  fea« 
ture  of  these  magnificent  masaes,  ia  the  variety  of  colore  that 
are  presented ;  yellow,  red,  black  end  while,  and  all  the  ahades 
between,  as  they  blend  and  are  loat  in  each  other.  On  the  top 
node  a  tnft  of  scrubby  cedars.  Upon  the  south  side,  a  narrow 
alope  between  the  Muff  and  river,  aflfoida  a  pass  for  a  footman 
along  the  water's  edge,  while  beyond  the  bluff  rises  abruptly. 
Frequently  cedar  and  wild  sage  is  to  be  seen.  I  walked  up 
the  river  a  diatanee  of  half  a  mile,  when  I  reached  a  spot 
where  the  rocke  had  tumbled  down,  and  found  something  of  a 
slope,  by  which  I  could,  with  the  aasiaHuiee  of  a  tong  pole,  and 
another  person  sometimee  pushing  and  then  pulling,  ascendi  we 
sacoeeded  in  elambering  up  to  the  top— whith  proved  to  be  a 
naked,  rong^  black  rook,  with  here  and  there  a  scrubby  cedar 
and  wild  sage  bnsh.  It  appeared  to  be  a  (dace  of  reaort  fo? 
raouBtain  sheep  and  beare.  We  followed  this  rid^e  south  to 
where  it  gndaally  deeeended  to  the  road.  The  river  in  thia 
kanjfon  ia  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yarda  wide,  and  looks 
deep.  At  the  eastern  end  of  thia  Aonyen  comes  in  a  stream 
which,  from  appearance,  conveys  torrents  of  wster  at  certain 
seaaons  of  the  year.  Here,  too,  is  a  very  |ood  camp.  By 
going  up  the  right  band  branch  five  or  aix  miles,  Uien  turning 
to  the  right  up  one  of  the  ridges,  and  eroaaing  a  email  branch 
(which  ioina  the  river  six  or  seven  miles  alwve  the  ftanyon) 
and  etriking  the  road  on  the  ridge  Uiree  miles  eaat  of  the  Big 
Timber  creek,  a  saving  might  be  made  of  at  least  ten  miles 
travd.  We  did  not  travel  this  route ;  but,  flrom  the  appear- 
ance of  the  country,  there  would  be  no  difficulty. 

Jul^  3.  This  day  we  traveled  about  sixteen  miles.  The 
Toed  left  the  river  bottom  soon  after  we  etarted.  A  trail,  how> 
ever,  croaaes  the  bottom  for  about  two  miles,  and  then  winds 
back  to  the  hill.  The  nearest  road  is  up  a  small  sandy  ravine, 
for  two  milee,  then  tarn  to  the  right  up  a  ridge,  and  follow 
this  ri4ge  for  eight  or  tea  miles.    At  the  dislsnos  of  thirteen 


80 


jouRNAii  or  TiuvELi  ofvra 


or  fourleeit  railei,  the  road  which  turned  to  lh«  Uft  n«r  the 
Bic  Spring,  connecu  with  ihii.  The  ro«d  then  turn,  down 
the  hill  to  the  right,  into  a  dry  branch,  which  it  deecende  to 
Bis  Timber  creek,  where  we  encamped. 

Jvlu  a.  Thie  day  we  uaveled  about  fifteen  milee.  Bix 
niilea  brought  ue  to  a  email  branch,  where  ia  agood  camp. 
Near  ihU  branch  there  ia  abundance  of  marble,  variegated  with 
blue  and  red.  but  it  ia  fuU  of  aeama.  The  hilla  in  thia  vieimty 
«re  of  the  red  ehale  formation.  In  the  moonUin  near  by  la 
atone  coal.  The  hilla  were  generally  covered  with  graaa.  1  he 
■treama  are  lined  with  coUon  wood,  willow  and  bosaider.    The 

road  wae  very  dunty.  .,     .   j      .l       -j 

July  4.  We  traveled  about  fifteen  milee  to^y,  the  road 
cenerally  good,  with  a  few  difficult  placee.  Two  wagona 
upaet.  but  Tittle  damage  waa  done.  We  croeaed  we™  beati. 
tiful  atreama,  flowing  from  the  Black  hilLt  they  are  Imed  wiA 
timber.  ToKlay,  aa  on  yeeterday,  we  found  .bunduiea  of  nO, 
yellow  and  black  curranta,  with  aome  gooaeberriea,  along  tne 

July  6.  We  thia  day  traveled  about  twelve  milee.  Three 
milee  brought  ua  to  Deer  creek.  Here  ia  an  "»«U«nt  ««^ 
ground,  lome  very  good  botuwn  land.  The  banka  are  lined 
with  Umber.  Slone  coal  waa  found  ne«p  the  road.  Thie 
would  be  a  auiuble  place  for  a  fort,  aa  the  aoil  and  Um^  i* 
better  than  ia  gennrally  found  along  the  upper  PUtte.  Gun* 
in  abundance,  auch  aa  elk,  buffalo,  deer,  antelope  and  bw. 
The  timber  ia  ehiefly  cotton  wood,  but  there  la  pine  on  the 
mountaina  within  ten  or  twelve  milee.  Tho  road  waa  gene- 
rally along  the  river  bottom,  and  much  of  the  way  extremely 
barren.     We  encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  "riw. 

July  6.  In  traveling  through  the  aand  and  hot  aan,oar 
wairon  Urea  had  become  looae;  and  we  had  wedged  unul  the 
tir?  would  no  longer  remain  on  the  wheela.  One  or  two  axle. 
treea  and  tonguee  had  been  broken,  and  we  found  it  «>«M«nr 
to  encamp  and  repair  them.  For  thu  purpoae  aU  hande  were 
boaily  einptoyed.  We  had  neither  bellowe  nor  anvil,  and  of 
S  ZdL  cut  and  weld  tire.  But  m  a  -ubaUhiUj,  w. 
took  off  the  Ure.  ahaved  thin  hoopa  and  tacked  Aem  on  the 
felloea.  heated  our  Ure  and  replaced  it.     Thia  we  found  to  aiK 

8wer  a  stood  purpoae.  ..        •  : 

Juivl.    Thia  day  we  traveled  about  ten  milee.   In  eroaaing 
•  amall  ravine,  an  axletree  of  0!»e  of  Um  wagona  wae  broken 


THE  BOCKY  MOUNTAINS 


ai 


n  left  naar  tho 
m  luriM  down 
il  dflacendt  to 

m  milM.  Six 
I  ■  good  camp, 
rsnegated  with 
in  (his  vieinitf 
ilain  nmr  bv  is 
ithgrut.  Tho 
boxaldor.    Tho 

o^ay,  tho  road 
Two  wogona 
id  Mvenl  brau> 
f  MO  linod  with 
nindoneo  of  red, 
irrioo,  olonf  tho 

)  miloi.    Throo 

exeoUent  eomp 

bonlu  are  lined 

he  road.    Thia 

il  and  timber  ia 

r  Platte.     Game 

elope  and  boar. 

ia  pine  on  tho 

)  road  was  geae- 

I  way  extremely 

ver. 

md  hot  saot  oar 
wedged  until  the 
One  or  two  axlo> 
tand  it  neeessary 
e  all  hands  were 
lor  anviU  and  of 
a  substitute,  we 
ked  them  on  the 
I  we  found  to  an- 

liles.   IneroBsing 
{ons  was  broken 


The  road  is  mosUy  on  tho  river  bottom.    Much  of  Uie  country 

is  barren.  ,  •  ... 

July  8.  Six  miles  trsTol  brought  us  U>  tho  c«»ssmg  of  the 
north  fork  of  the  Platte.  At  1  oMock.  P.  M.  aU  were  safely 
over,  and  wo  proceeded  up  hsif  a  mUe  to  a  grove  of  Umber  and 
encamped.  Near  tho  crossing  was  encamped  Colonel  Keur- 
ney's  regiment  of  dragoons,  on  their  return  from  tlie  South 
Pass.     Many  of  them  were  sick.  ..       , .     ,  , 

July  9.  We  traveled  about  ten  miles  this  day,  and  en- 
cnmpe'd  at  the  Mineral  Spiing.  The  rwid  loaves  the  Platte  at 
the  croesing,  and  passes  over  the  Red  BuUt:  The  plams  in 
litis  region  are  literally  covered  with  buffalo. 

JtUu  10.  Today  we  traveled  about  ten  miles.  The  rango 
is  venr  poor,  and  it  has  become  necessary  to  divide  into  small 
parties,  in  order  to  procure  forage  for  our  cattle.  Out  of  the 
company  five  divisions  were  formed.  In  my  division  we  had 
eleven  wagons;  snd  we  travel  more  expeditiously,  with  but 
litde  difficulty  iu  finding  grass  for  our  catde. 

July  1 1.  Wo  this  Aiy  traveled  about  twelve  miles.  Soon 
after  starting  we  passed  an  excellent  sprin«:  it  is  to  the  right 
of  the  road,  in  a  thicket  of  willows.  One  fourth  of  a  mile  lur- 
ther  the  road  ascends  a  hill,  winds  round  and  passes  several 
marshy  springs.  The  grase  is  very  good,  but  is  confined  to 
patohes.    Our  eamp  was  on  a  sroaU  branch  running  into  tho 

Sweet  Water.  ,        ,  ,       j         n^.u 

July  18.  This  day  w#  arrived  at  Jnatpendence  Jtoek. 
This  IS  a  soliury  pile  of  gray  granite,  Htanding  in  on  open 
phin.  It  is  about  one-eighth  of  a  mile  long  and  some  six  or 
eiffht  rods  wide,  and  is  elevated  about  sixty  or  seventy  feet 
alrave  the  plain.  On  the  iiorthnwistern  side  the  slope  is  auf- 
ficienUy  gradual  to  be  easily  ascended.  Portions  of  it  are 
oovered  with  inscriptions  of  the  names  of  travelers,  with  the 
dates  of  their  arrival— some  carved,  some  in  black  P*""'*  and 
others  in  red.  Sweet  Water,  a  stream  heading  in  Uie  Wind 
River  Mountains,  and  entering  the  Platte,  runa  immediately 
along  its  southern  side,  leaving  a  strip  of  some  twenty  or  Uiirly 
foetof  grassy  plain  between  the  base  of  the  rock  and  the  cret*. 
We  encamped  two  mdea  above  the  rook,  having  traveled  about 

thirteen  miles.  ,       _,, 

July  13.  We  traveled  about  thirteen  miles  this  day.  Three 
mUes  brought  iia  to  the  Gap,  or  Devifa  Gate,  as  it  is  someUmes 
fidled.  The  Sweet  Water  breaks  through  a  spur  of  the  moun- 
tMB,  whtpb  frwn  «ppe«raaot  i«  four  of  fivft  hu#r«4  f«et  higii. 


g|  JOOMfAL  or  TRATSUI  OVBR 

On  lh«  wulh  lidfl  th«  rook«  project  over  the  ttr«m,  hot  on 
the  norlh  ilope  b«ck  a  lilUe.  The  whole  mounuin  ie  «  mnee 
of  grey  granite  rock,  deatilule  of  vrgeUtion,  aave  an  oecaaional 
•cnibhy  cedar  or  buah  of  arteminia.  From  where  the  creek 
enlera  to  where  i«  emergee  from  thia  kanyon  ia  lliree  or  four 
hundred  ywrda.  I'he  water  ruahet  ihroiifh  hke  a  torrent  At 
the  diaUnca  of  one  hundred  rode  aouth  of  thia  ia  the  Gap,  where 
the  road  paaaea ;  but  the  rock  ia  not  ao  high.  South  of  thia 
■gain  ia  another  gap,  perhapa  half  or  thrre*fourtha  of  a  mile 
wide.  The  rocka  there  riee  mountain  high.  South-weet  of 
thia  ia  a  valloy  extending  .«  far  aa  the  eye  ean  penetrate.  Aa 
the  road  paaaea  thronirh  thia  gap,  it  beara  to  the  right,  up  the 
valley  of  the  Sweet  Water. 

J'tify  14.  Thia  day  we  traTeled  about  twenty^two  milee. 
The  nwd  eometimee  leavee  the  ereek  for  aeveral  milee,  and 
paaaea  over  a  barren,  aandy  plain  i  no  kind  of  vegetation  but 
the  wild  aage.  We  thia  day  met  a  party  of  men  fiwn  Oali' 
fornia  and  Oregon.  A  portion  of  thoae  from  California  apoke 
unfavprably  of  that  country;  and  thoae  from  Oregon  apoke 
highly  of  the  latter  country.  On  thie  day'a  mareh  we  came 
in  eight  of  the  long-looked-for  anow-eappod  mounlaina.  They 
were  the  Wind  River  Mountaina.  On  our  right  ie  a  ntM  of 
naked  itMsk;  on  our  left  and  to  the  diatanoe  of  ten  or  twelv* 
milee  ii  a  high  nnge  of  mountaina,  moetly  covered  with  timber  i 
whilat  in  the  valley  there  ia  no  timber,  and  much  of  the  plain 
entirely  deetitute  of  vegetation.    We  enewnped  near  (he  Nat' 

Jtjjf  16.  We  traveled  about  eleven  mdee  *o-4vr.  There 
are  two  traila,  which  diverge  below  the  Narrowa.  The  neareet 
and  beet  ie  that  to  the  ri^t  up  the  ereek,  croeeing  it  eeverd 
timea ;  they  unite  again  near  where  we  encamped.  The  road 
waa  good,  but  aa  uanal  very  duaty.  Onr  huntera  wounded  s 
buffalo,  and  drove  him  into  camp.  About  twenty  men  ran  to 
meet  him.  He  gave  them  betUe.  They  fired  a  volley  that 
brought  him  to  hie  kneea,  and  whilat  in  that  poeition  Mr. 
Creiffhton  («  young  man  from  Ohio)  ran  aeroee  ttM  creek,  in- 
tending to  ahoot  Qie  animal  in  die  hewl.  When  Creighlon 
had  approached  within  ten  or  twelve  feet,  the  earaeed  anind 
■prung  to  hie  feet  and  made  at  him.  Creighton  wheeled  and 
••eplit'^  for  the  camp;  the  bnfiUo  paraning  to  near  the  bank 
of  the  creek,  where  he  atopped.  By  Uiia  time  othtn  ^d  uw 
rived  with  gune,  and  tiie  boiWo  waa  oompelled  to  Tleld.  In 
tb«  •«eprae^'  om  of  mj  boiMe  ivm  ahot  with  •  taU  in  th* 


!  streim,  hot  on 

unUiin  ta  a  mtuii 

v9  on  oecMJonal 

rhere  the  cresk 

it  UirM  or  four 

e  a  torrent    At 

I  the  Gap,  where 

South  of  thia 

lurtha  of  a  mile 

South-weat  of 

I  penetrate.     Aa 

he  right,  up  the 

'ent]r«two  milee. 
veral  milee,  and 
t(  vegetation  bat 
men  ftem  Oali* 
California  apoke 
I  Oregon  apoke 
mareh  we  came 
Duntaina.  They 
ght  ie  a  naaa  or 
)f  ten  or  twelve 
tred  with  timber  ( 
inch  of  the  plain 
ed  near  the  Nar* 

I  tiKlijT.  There 
1*8.  Theneareet 
roeeing  it  aeveral 
iped.  The  road 
ntera  wounded  » 
'enty  men  ran  to 
red  a  volley  that 
tiat  poeition  Mr. 
oee  tte  ereek,  in* 
When  Creighton 
s  enraged  animal 
iton  wheeled  and 
10  near  the  bank 
ne  othera  had  ar* 
led  to  Yield.  In 
Pith  •  toU  in  tlM 


THE  nocKT  MovNTAiria  n 

knee  i  no  bon«e  were  broken,  and  he  waa  able  to  travel,  but 
lie  waa  a  long  lime  very  lame. 

JtJtj  16.  Thia  day  ve  traveled  about  tw«nly-elx  milee. 
Four  milee  brought  ue  to  a  marahy  bottom,  where  wu  very 
good  graea.  In  the  centre  of  thia  quagmire  and  near  where 
the  road  eroeaee  the  bottom  ie  a  ipring  of  good  water.  Eight 
milea  brought  ua  to  a  email  atream  j  but  little  tn»:  Bi%  milea 
brought  ue  to  Sweet  Water;  croaaed  and  left  it  and  atrudi  it 
again  in  aix  or  eight  milee.  The  graae  here  ia  good.  Wild 
mgtt  waa  our  only  fuel.    Thia  night  there  waa  a  heavy  froet 

July  17.  Our  cattle  being  mueh  fatigued,  we  drove  but  live 
mOea.  The  roed  ia  ap  the  creek  bottom,  which  ia  moetly 
covered  with  graae.  A  heavy  froet:  iee  formed  in  buckela 
one^oarth  of  an  inoh  thick.  We  here  found  the  celebralwl 
mountaineer  Walker,  who  waa  traveUng  to  Brldm'a  fort. 

July  18.  We  traveled  about  twenty-two  milee  thia  der. 
The  road  aa«ende  the  bluff  and  winde  among  rockv  hilla  for 
eix  milee,  peeeing  over  ledgee  that  are  entirely  naked  for  rode. 
The  appearance  of  the  country  ia  extremely  barren.     We 

red  aeveral  rivnleU  where  amaU  partiearaay  4^Uin  grasin^ 
their  atock.  The  day  haa  been  quite  cold.  The  Wind 
River  Monntaina  are  on  our  right,  about  twenty  milea  diatant. 
They  preacnted  a  moat  grand  appearanee.  Huge  maaaea  of 
ioe  and  mow  piled  op  peak  upon  peak,  with  Urge  bodiee  of 
ti  Jiber  covering  portion*  of  the  mountune.  We  viewed  the 
Boothem  tOTmination  of  thia  range  {  but  they  extend  to  the 
north  further  ihan  the  eye  can  penetrate.  The  country  be- 
tween ue  and  the  mountaina  ia  rolling,  and  much  of  it  appar- 
ently barren.  Hard  froet  .  u  u 
Juh  19.  Thia  morning  we  aaeended  the  bank  on  the  aouth 
aide  of  Sweet  Water.  Six  milea  brought  ua  again  to  the  creek, 
where  ie  good  graae  in  the  bottom  and  willow  for  fuel.  We 
oroaeed,  went  up  the  bottom  two  milee,  and  croeeed  back  and 
left  the  Sweet  Water.  7Vti$  day  we  patted  ever  the  divMn^ 
ridge  wMtk  $e/mralet  the  watere  /huing  into  the  JItUmtw 
from  thoee  itkiehJM  their  way  into  the  Pae\fit  Ocean. 

We  RAD  BEACHED  TEE  BOEEIT  0»  THE   RoOKY   MoUETAIHa. 

Six  milee  biought  ne  to  a  apring,  the  watera  of  which  ran  into 
Oreea  river,  or  the  great  Colorado  of  the  weet— Here,  then, 
we  hailed  Oeeooe.  Here  we  found  n  bottom  covered  with 
good  graae,  when  we  halted  until  foar  o'clock,  P.  M.,  when 
we  agaia  hitehed  ep  and  took  the  plun  for  Litde  Sandy.  Ten 
bMwght  iw  to  •  dry  bnadi.  wheM  by  iigpng  to  th* 


^  JOUWAIi  or  TllA¥«Li  OVW 

ikpth  of  on*  f<JOl  we  proeurwl  waUwj  bul  it  wm  bfwjimh,  m4 
had  a  »ery  unplewanl  Uile.  A  whiU  Mdimont.  iuch  m  w« 
had  noticed  al-ewhere  on  ihe  ron«t,  oo»*r«l  Oio  •urf»c«  of  Uio 
(round.  Ten  milee  more  brooght  ue  to  Little  Bendy,  whwh 
we  re«:hed  »t  one  oV4ock  in  ihe  niKh^  hevin^  »«"W  »*»%' 
one  roilee.  The  tmd  wm  o»er  e  berren  pUin  of  lif  hi  ejind, 
and  wee  wry  dueiy.  From  Uio  eprinc  lo  LnOe  Sendy  U»tr* 
ie  no  »efei»aon  but  the  wild  eage,  and  it  had  a  withered  ap- 
neerancA.  The  night  waa  eoW.  freesing  quite  hard.  I^til* 
Baady  haa  iia  aouree  in  the  Wind  ri»ef  monntaino.  Along 
thia  etream  ia  a  narrow  bottom,  cowred  with  gfaee  and  wUlowe. 
We  are  now  out  of  the  range  of  the  buffalo,  and  aiau>ugh  not 
oAen  mentioned,  we  have  eeen  thouaanda  of  theeo  huge  ani* 
ii.aU.  There  ha»e  been  eo  many  comf  aniee  of  emigranU  « 
advent  e  of  ue,  that  they  have  firi|hlened  the  boffalc  from  the 
road.     We  daily  eee  hundreds  of  antelope.  ,      .^ 

July  20.  Thie  day  we  traveled  ahoot  thirteen  "»»»♦•• 
Bit  Sandy.  The  road  wae  over  a  level  eandy  plain,  covered 
with  wild  eage.  At  LilUe  Sandy  Ihe  road  f<«ka— one  taking 
to  the  right  and  auiking  Big  Sandy  In  alx  mile*,  and  thence 
forty  miTee  to  Green  river,  striking  the  latter  some  ihirty  or 
forty  milee  above  the  lower  ford,  and  ihenoe  lo  Big  Bear  river, 
atriking  it  about  fifteen  mllee  below  the  old  road.  By  taking 
this  trail  two  and  a  half  days*  travel  may  be  aaved ;  but  in  the 
forty  milea  between  Big  Sandy  and  Oreen  river  ihere  is  no 
walOT.  and  but  litUe  grass.  CJampe  may  be  had  wilhm  rea- 
sonable distances  between  Green  and  Bear  rivers.  1  \n  lell 
hand  trail,  which  we  took,  twelve  milee  from  LilUe  Sandy 
suikee  the  Big  Sandy,  follows  down  it  and  strikes  Oreen  river 
above  Ihe  mouth  of  Big  Sandy.  ...         oi. 

July  a  I  We  traveled  about  fourteen  roilee  to-day.  »l« 
miles  brouf  hi  us  lo  Oreen  river,  or  Colorado.  This  is  a  beau- 
Uful  clear  ktream,  about  r,n«  hundred  yai^a  wide,  with  a  rapid 
current  over  a  gravelly  bottom.  It  flowa  through  a  barren, 
sandy  country  ;  occasionally  Ihe  bottome  spread  to  a  mile  in 
widtli,  covered  with  graaa.  There  is  moeUy  a  beU  of  timber 
along  the  banke  of  Ihe  slreara.— EmigranU  had  bef"  »««  *• 
habU  of  croeaing  the  river  on  rafts.  We  succeeded  in  finding 
a  place  where,  by  hoisUng  up  the  wagon-beds  si»  inches,  wo 
oould  ford  the  river  widiout  damaging  our  goods.  1  "'V^f* 
done  by  eutting  polee  and  placing  them  under  the  wawn-beds. 
md  in  bne  hour  w^  were  all  safely  over.  We  proceeded  down 
th*  riter  eicbt  wile^. wdMWWopfd  io  •  pow  imr  i*^-^ 


■  bnM'kMh,  md 
Hi.  iurh  u  w« 
«urfM«  of  the 

8»ndy,  which 
tnveM  thirty 

of  light  mik1« 
1«  Sandy  tbtr* 
•  witb«r«d  •»* 
e  banl.  LitU* 
mtaino.  Along 
M«  ami  willowi. 
nd  altltough  no* 
iheM  bugs  uii> 
»f  smigranU  in 
NilTalo  rrom  thn 

irtMB  milM.  to 
y  plain,  eovorad 
rkt— ono  taking 
ilea,  and  thanoa 
aoina  thirty  or 
Big  Bear  rivar, 
)ad.  By  uking 
iivad )  but  in  tha 
iver  thara  ia  no 
had  within  raa- 
ivrra.  Tlia  Un 
m  Liltla  Sandy 
ikea  Oraen  rivar 

laa  to-day.  Six 
Thia  ia  a  beau* 
ida,  with  a  rapid 
irough  a  barren, 
»d  to  a  niila  in 
a  belt  of  timber 
had  bean  in  iho 
Meded  in  finding 
!■  nx  inehaa,  wo 
node.  Thia  waa 
'  tha  wagon-beda, 
I  proeeaded  dowa 


TMB  BOCKY  MOVNTAIIta  M 

jNibina  built  by  a  party  of  tradrr*.     Thw  la  an  abundance  of 
fi«h  in  thia  •Iream,  and  wa  had  great  eport  in  ftahin*. 

July  %».  Thia  da/  we  travalad  about  flflean  milee.  The 
rood  lea»ea  Green  river  near  our  camp,  and  paaeea  over  a  high, 
barren  counUy.  to  Blaek'e  fork  ;  ihia  we  followed  op  eonie 
four  milaa  and  encamped.  Aa  upon  other  alraama,  there  la 
oceuioiially  a  graaay  bottom  with  a  Uttlo  cotton  wood  and 
willow  bniah.    Snowy  moontaina  to  be  leon  in  the  eouth. 

July  «4.  We  traveled,  to^ay,  about  fuvrteen  milea,  over 
a  barren  euontry,  eroaaing  the  creek  eeveral  Umaa.  We 
noticed  a  nnmber  of  pil«  of  atone  and  earth,  at-mo  forty  ir 
tity  feet  high,  ecattared  in  different  directiona.  ||iv:r.„  the 
appearance  of  tha  general  aurfaeo  having  been  worn  away  to 
that  extent  by  the  ravagea  of  time  and  the  elementa. 

July  U.     Thia  day  we  traveled  about  aixtaen  milea,  eroeaed 
the  creek  aeveral  Umea,  and  eneamned  near  Fort  Bridger 
Thia  ia  a  trading  fort  owned  by  Brid|er  and  Baaeoa.     It  ia 
built  of  polee  and  daubed  with  mudt  it  ia  n  ahabby  eoneern. 
Here  are  about  twenty-five  lodgea  of  Indiana,  or  rather  whit* 
trappcra'  iodgaa  oecupie«l  by  their  Indian  wivoa.    They  have 
a  good  anpply  of  robeo,  dreaaed  deer,  elk  and  antelope  akina, 
eoau,  pante,  moecaiina,  and  other  Indian  flxena,  whleh  they 
trwle  low  for  fiour,  pork,  powder,  lead,  Wanketa,  bulehar- 
knivee,  epirita,  hata,  ready  made  olothee,  eolbe,  augar,  «o. 
They  aak  for  a  horee  from  twenty-five  to  fifty  dollara.  in  trade. 
Their  wivea  are  moeUy  of  the  Pyeniee  and  Snake  Indiana 
They  hive  a  herd  of  catUe,  twenty  five  or  thirty  goata  and 
aome  aheep.    They  generally  abandon  thia  fort  during  the 
winter  nentha.     At  thia  place  the   bottoma  are  wide.  am. 
Mvered  with  good  graaa.     Cotton  wood  timber  in  plenty. 
The  atream  ahounda  with  trout. 
July  SO.     Remained  at  the  fort  tho  whole  of  thie  day. 
JuN  17.  We  traveled  about  eight  milea,  lo^y,  to  LitUa 
Muddy.    The  grating  and  water  bad.    Several  bad  hilla. 

July  20.  TtHlay  we  traveled  about  aixteen  milee.  Fen 
mUea  brought  ua  to  the  Big  Muddy.  Country  barren.  Our 
oourea  ie  op  the  Big  Muddy,  and  nearly  north.  Encamped 
on  tho  ereek.     Very  poor  graxing.     Thia  ia  a  iimaatono 

July  aw.  Thia  day  we  traveled  about  auteen  milea.  Our 
eourae  ia  atill  up  tho  Muddy.  Emigranta  would  do  well  to 
posh  on  up  to  aenr  tho  head  of  Ihia  erad^  aa  the  graaa  ii  good 


\ 


M  JOUBNAL  or  T11ATW4I  Orm 

■ml  lh«r#  M*  •naelknl  •pringi  of  wtltt.     Th«  Pounlry  U  vrj 
rnuirli.     W«  Mw  •  f«w  bnavar  ilam«. 

Juty  10.  W«  IravtiMi  •bout  iwwniy-flvt  mllM  »hli  d«jf 
Tw«l*«  mil**  bftiujjhl  u«  lo  ihn  divuliinf  riiJfn  Utwwn  Ui«  w». 
ten  of  Ofiwn  •nil  lUKir  H»«r«.  Tl-n  ruins  it  high,  bul  tha  ••• 
Mnl  l«  i»ol  ailR«'ull.  From  thw  n«lK«  lb«  •«»nery  i«  nioal  Ufi- 
llfhiful.  In  on«  »ww  U  Ui*  mMndari  of  MuOily  crwk.  Two 
compuniM  with  Urya  htfiU  of  oaltU  ar*  wlndinic  Ihair  way  up 
the  »ill«y.  Th«  bolil  mountain*  on  aithtr  iiilo  ar«  »«ry  hi|h 
•nd  ruggid.  In  front  •«!  -l  »h#  dituiaea  of  lw«l»«  milM  ia  tha 
valley  of  Bif  Baar  ri»ar-  A  r«»ina  at  o«r  frat  ewu  tha  apur 
of  tlia  moontai*.  ami  amptiaa  ita  watara  into  B«ar  riftr,  Tha 
vallar  of  Bmt  Hw  la  foar  or  «»a  milaa  wida.  wiih  willowa 
along  iu  banka.  At  a  dlatanca  bayond  tha  Baar  ri»ar  la  a  rang* 
of  high  mouniaina.  atralrhiag  aa  far  u  tha  aya  ean  raMh,  thair 
anowy  topa  ||Uaiania(  In  tha  raya  oT  tha  aan.  Tha  mountaina 
near  iho  trail  ara  rough  and  hava  a  aingular  appaaranea  j  tha 
aarth  baing  of  rarioua  colora— Ulaek,  whiJa,  rad,  yallow,  and 
btarnaduta  ahadaa.  Occaaionally  thera  ia  a  g ro» )  of  quoting 
aapw).  and  a  law  aour-barry  buahaa  and  aoma  cadar.  Our 
camp  to-night  waa  on  Baar  ri»ar ;  tha  bottom  ia  aandy,  and 
moally  aovarod  with  wild  aaga. 

July  91.  Thia  day  wa  travalad  down  Baar  rivar  flftaan 
milaa.  Tha  boMom  ia  from  two  to  four  milaa  wida.  and  moaUy 
eoTorwl  with  good  graaa.  Tha  road  exwdlant.  We  enoampad 
two  ndM  above  Soaith'a  fork.  Tha  upper  nwd  from  Oram 
rivar  oomaa  in  two  mUaa  back. 

Jiugwit  I.  Wa  traveled  fiAean  milea  thia  day.  rwoniilee 
brought  ua  lo  Smilh'a  fork.  ThU  ia  a  bold,  clear,  and  beauti- 
ful atream,  coming  in  from  the  eaat.  It  ia  about  fifteen  yarda 
wide,  lined  with  timber  and  undergrowth.  In  U»ia  •»««m  « 
an  abundance  of  mountain  trout,  aome  of  them  verv  largj.  The 
road  leada  down  tlie  bottom  of  Bear  river  three  mUea  to  Spring 
branch,  one  mile  to  the  Narrowa  and  three  milea  to  the  Brat 
croasiiig  of  Bear  river.  Hero  are  two  traila.  The  nearaat 
luma  to  the  right  up  a  creek  for  a  mile  and  a  half,  eroaaea  the 
creek  and  pasaea  over  the  hill,  and  atrikee  the  other  trail  at  the 
foot  of  Big  Hdl,  aix  milea  from  the  croaainga.  The  other 
trail  eroaaea  the  river,  followa  up  Ita  bottom  rotind  the  bend 
for  eight  milea,  to  where  it  eroaaea  the  river,  then  followa  down 
the  bottom  three  mUea,  and  take*  op  »  »illny  for  one  mile  U> 
the  fool  of  the  Big  Hill,  where  it  interaeoU  the  other  UaiL 
Thia  ia  tha  moat  lavel  road,  but  tha  oUier  ia  not  •  bad  one. 


fouolry  U  *trjr 

nllM  ihif  day 
«twmn  Ui«  w»* 
iigh,  but  the  M* 
■ry  i«  mo«(  d«< 
jr  crMk.  Two 
IK  their  wtv  up 
I  are  vary  nifn 
ilva  milaa  ia  UM 
,  eula  tha  aiMir 
Bar  river.  'I'ha 
a,  with  willowa 
rivar  ia  a  rani* 
ean  raaeht  thair 
Tha  mountaiBa 
ppaannea ;  tha 
rad,  yallow,  and 
[ro*)of  quakinf 
DC  eadar.  Uur 
B  ia  aaody,  and 

Mr  rlvar  iinaan 

rida,  and  moatly 

Wa  encampad 

wd  from  Oraen 

lay.  Two  milaa 
lear,  and  b«ftuti< 
out  fifiaan  yarda 
n  ihia  atream  ia 
verylarj^j.  Tha 
I  milaa  lo  Spriug 
lilaa  10  tha  firat 
t.  Tha  naareat 
hair,  eroaaaa  the 
other  trail  at  tha 
iga.    The  other 

rotind  the  bend 
ten  followa  down 

for  one  mile  to 
I  Uie  other  trail 
I  not  a  bad  one. 


THM  POCKY  HOVNTilNft  ff 

The  hilla  bordaring  on  B«t«r  rivar  on  thia  day'*  travtl  are  very 
hifh  »i\d  ruBgiU  ;  lley  »r«  covered  v»ilh  jjruaa.  The  boitoma 
Bra  from  one  u.  lour  iniUta  wida.  Wa  taw  ihia  day  Urge  harda 
of  .nirlofia.  We  encamped  in  the  bend  of  the  rtvar,  near  Uie 
aecoiid  oruaainga.  ...  ,     .  •> 

Jiugmt  %.     Thia  dny  wa  traveled  about  nineteen  mllea. 
Four  or  ftva  mlUa  brought  ua  to  the  big  hill  or  mounUiin.     It 
la  about  hall  a  iiiila  Ui  the  lop  of  the  firat  ridga.and  (|uiUi  •Usep. 
The  roail  then  turna  a  few  roda  to  ibe  right.  ili«n  to  the  left 
down  a  ravine  for  three  hundred  yarde,  and  then  up  a  ravine 
fur  half  a  mile  lo  tlia  lop  of  iha  mounUin.     Wa  traveled  about 
two  niilca  along  the  ridge,  and  dien  turned  to  ihe  left  down  the 
mounUin.     It  la  about  one  milt  to  the  plain,  and  generally 
very  aUep  and  atony  t  but  all  reached  the  plain  aafely,  and 
were  Uuly  thankful  diat  they  had  aafoly  paaaed  one  of  the 
meat  difficult  mounUlna  on  the  road.     From  th**  lop  of  thia 
mountain  we  had  a  moat  delightful  view  of  the  aurrounding 
country.     Thia  ia  one  oi"  the  rangea  which  border  thia  atream. 
At  thia  place  they  cloae  in  upon  both  aidea  ao  aa  not  to  admit 
of  a  paaaage  wilh  teama  along  the  river.     A  road  could  eaaily 
be  cut  around  the  point,  and  aave  the  fatigue  of  climbing   thia 
mounUin ;  the  diaUnee  would  not  be    roateri«Hy  increaaed. 
The  valley  of  Bear  river  beara  off  to  the  nortli-weat,  and  can 
be  aeen  a  great  diatance.     From  the  aouth  cornea  in  a  broad 
valley,  up  which  can  be  aeen  Dear  Lake.     A  high  range  of 
mountaina  aeparalea  it  from  the  river.     The  outlet  of  thia  lake 
la  two  or  Ihree  milea  below  the  narniwa  made  by  ihia  moun- 
Uin.    A  high  range  of  anow  covered  mounUina  can  be  aeen 
to  the  aouth-weal.    TIk  ro«l  atrikea  the  river  two  milca  from 
the  foot  of  the  mountain,  at  Big  Timber.     Here  ia  a  good 
camp.     Eight  milea  brought  na  lo  a  apring  branch.     The  bot- 
tom here  ia  wide  ;   a  low  marah  prevenU  driving  lo  the  river. 
The  graaa  ia  good.     There  ia  a  liitle  timber  on  ihe  mountaina. 
At  Big  Timber  ia  a  company  of  trappera  and  tradera  atUched 
to  Bridge'a  parly. 

Augutl  8.  We  travele.1  about  fourteen  milea,  croaainjj  a 
number  of  apring  branohea,  coming  in  from  the  mounlaina. 
Theae  branchea  abound  in  trout.  The  ground,  for  a  atrip  of 
about  four  milea,  waa  covered  wilh  black  crickeU  of  a  large 
aiie.  I  aaw  aome  that  were  about  ihreo  inclica  in  length,  and 
maaauring  about  three-fourtha  of  an  inch  in  diameter ;  but  the 
common  aite  were  two  inchea  in  length  and  one-half  or  five- 
•Ightha  of  an  inch  in  diameter  i  their  lega  were  large  in  pro- 


-. 


warn 


|tt  JOURNAL  OP  TRAVIUJ!  tlvr.U 

portion  to  the  siie  of  their  botlien.  Some  were  tinging  on 
•talks  of  wild  sage ;  others  mwling  in  every  direction.  Our 
teams  made  great  ha»oc  among  them;  so  numerous  were  they 
that  we  crushed  them  at  e»cry  step.  As  soon  ss  one  was 
killed,  others  of  them  would  alight  «pon  it  and  devour  it.  The 
bottoms  are  wide,  and  covered  with  grafs,  and  the  soil  looks 
well.  A  few  patches  of  snow  were  seen  upon  the  mountum 
•omo  ten  miles  distant.  A  portion  of  the  mounttin  is  covered 
with  fine  timber.    The  bottoms  are  rolling. 

Jlvgmt  4.     We  reached  the  Soda  springs,  having  traveled 
about  eight  miles.    The  fir«t  view  we  had  was  of  two  or  three 
white  haiockB  or  mounds,  standing  up  at  different  points  to 
the  right  of  the  road,  and  near  a  irove  of  cedar  ond  pine  timber. 
One  of  them  '\u  about  ten  rods  long  at  the  base,  and  three  or 
fo«:r  rods  in  width;  its  elevation  is  probably  twenty-five  or 
thirty  feet  from  the  plain  in  which  it  is  situated.    The  sua 
of  these  mounds  continually  increases,  as  the  water  oo«es  out 
at  different  points,  and  produces  a  cnist  which  becomes  quit« 
hard.    The  rocks,  for  miles  around,  are  of  the  soda  formaUon. 
Upon  those  mounds  the  water  is  warm.    In  a  small  bottom, 
immediately  before  reaching  the  fir«t  of  these  mounds,  and 
about  two  hundred  yards  above  the  road.  Is  a  hole  about  eight 
feet  In  diameter ;  In  diis  Is  a  pool  of  water,  strongly  impreg. 
nated  with  soda.    I  had  no  means  of  ascertainlm  the  depth, 
but  believe  it  to  be  considerable ;  at  one  edge  of  it  the  water 
was  boiling  and  sparkling;  it  would  sometimes  sweU  four 
inches  above  the  surface.    This  pool,  and  others  conUguous, 
affords  excellent  drinking  water;  it  was  cool,  and,  when 
sweetened,  would  compare  favourably  with  any  soda  waUr. 
Just  below  the  mound,  and  near  the  grove,  is  a  rapid  stream 
of  water,  coursing  over  a  rocky  bottom,  formed  by  aoda.    At 
the  crossing  of  ihis  creek,  and  below  the  road,  is  a  morass; 
and  immediately  on  the  bank  of  the  rivulet,  is  a  crevice  m  the 
rock,  from  which  a  small  stream  of  water  issues ;  this  was  the 
best  to  drink  of  any  I  found.    After  crossing  the  cr««k,  the 
distance  to  the  springs  generally  resorted  to  Is  about  three- 
fourths  of  a  mUe}  they  boll  up  in  e-ery  direction.    Sevoral 
mounds  have  been  formed,  of  ten  feet  In  height.    The  water 
has  found  some  other  passage,  and  left  them  to  moulder  awav. 
The  centre  or  middle  of  these  are  concave.    The  surface  of  the 
earth  here  is  some  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  above  the  level  of  Uie 
river,  the  bank  of  which  is  of  rock,  of  the  soda  formaUon.    A 
grove  of  cedar  »ad  pine  timber  extends  from  the  river  back  to 


irer«  singing  on 
direction.  Our 
leroni  were  tliejr 
Don  ■«  one  wat 
devour  it.  The 
cl  the  loil  loolii 
on  the  mounUin 
intain  a  coTered 

,  hiving  traveled 
1  of  two  or  three 
ifferent  points  to 
and  pine  timber. 
ise«  and  three  or 
y  twenty-five  or 
Bted.  The  siie 
I  water  coxes  ont 
*h  becomes  quite 
i  soda  formation. 

a  small  bottom, 
Bse  mounds,  and 
t  hole  about  eight 
stronglv  impreg* 
lining  the  depth, 
;e  of  It  the  water 
times  swell  four 
then  contiguous, 
cool,  and,  when 

any  aoda  wati-r. 
is  a  rapid  stream 
ited  by  aoda.  At 
tad,  is  a  morass ; 
is  a  crevice  in  the 
ues ;  this  waa  the 
ng  the  creek,  the 
0  is  about  three- 
irection.  Bevoral 
ighu  The  water 
to  moulder  awav. 
The  surface  of  the 
ve  the  level  of  tlie 
>da  formation.    A 

the  river  back  to 


TUB  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


80 


the  mountain,  a  distance  of  two  and  a  half  or  tlirce  miles ;  the 
space  between  the  road  and  the  river  is  covered  with  ^rass ; 
but  between  it  and  the  mountain  it  is  barren  of  vegetation  of 
any  kind.  The  soda  has  left  a  sediment,  which  is  now  crum- 
bled and  loone,  with  an  occasional  mound  of  ten  or  twelve  feet 
elevation,  but  no  water  running.  The  river  here  is  about  one 
hundred  yards  in  width,  and  about  eighteen  inches  in  depth, 
running  very  rapidly.  The  soda  water  is  bubbling  up  in  every 
direction,  and  sometimes  risps  nix  inches  above  the  surface  of 
the  river.  This  bubbling  extends  for  near  half  a  mile.  A 
stream  comep  in  from  the  north  at  the  western  edge  of  the 
springu.  tumbles  over  the  rocks,  and  finally  into  the  river. 
Near  where  one  branch  of  this  falls  over  the  rock  (it  has 
several  passages  where  the  road  crosses  it)  is  a  circular  basin 
in  the  rock,  being  two  feet  in  diameter  at  the  top,  but  larger 
below.  It  was  covered  with  grass ;  and,  in  walking  along,  I 
barely  avoided  stepping  into  it ;  whilst  at  its  edge  the  purling 
or  gurgling  of  the  water,  as  it  boils  up,  apprixed  me  of  its 
vicinity.  The  surface  of  the  water  is  about  three  feet  below 
the  top  of  the  rock.  The  water  is  cool,  much  more  so  than 
the  water  of  the  sprinn,  and  is  remarkably  clear. 

Three  hundred  yards  below  the  crossing  of  this  branch,  and 
Immediately  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  is  the  Steamboat  Spring. 
The  water  has  formed  a  small  cone  of  about  two  and  a  half 
feet  in  height,  and  three  feet  in  diameter,  at  the  base.  A  hole 
of  six  inches  in  diameter  at  the  top,  allows  the  water  to  dis- 
charge itself.  It  swells  out  ut  intervals  of  eight  or  ten  seconds, 
and  sometimes  flows  four  or  five  j'eat  in  disjointed  fragments. 
It  is  lukewarm,  and  has  a  milky  appearance ;  but  when  taken 
in  a  vessel  becomes  as  transparent  an  crystal.  It  produces  a 
sound  similar  to  the  puffing  of  a  steamboat,  but  not  quite  so 
deep.  It  can  frequently  be  heard  at  the  distance  of  a  quarter 
of  a  mile.  About  six  feet  from  this  is  a  suiall  fissure  in  the 
rock,  which  is  called  the  escape-pipe  or  gas-pipe.  It  makes 
a  hissing  noiiie,  corresponding  with  the  belching  of  the  spring. 
The  gas  emitted  from  this  Assure  is  so  strong  that  it  would 
snflbcate  a  person,  holding  his  head  near  the  ground.  To 
the  rear  of  this,  aoross  the  road,  are  mounds  fifty  or  aixty  teet 
in  height ;  these  were  entirely  dry.  Up  this  creek  is  very 
good  grazing  for  eatdc,  but  there  are  found  some  marshy  places 
contiguous.  The  bottom  tipon  the  opposite  side  of  the  river 
is  four  or  five  miles  in  width,  and  covered  with  a  good  coat 
of  grass.    The  eoU  lodugoud ;  and  if  the  seMoas  are  not  loo 


SMM 


M 


JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  OVER 


•horl,  would  produce  well.  The  mountain  upon  the  «outn 
tide  in  oo»ered  with  heary  pine  timber;  on  tiie  north  side  but 
little  Umber  was  observed ;  what  Hide  wns  noticed  consisted 
principally  of  scrubby  cedars.  Antelope  found  m  abundance. 
The  water,  in  many  of  the  springs,  is  sufficienUy  strong  to 
laise  bread,  equally  as  well  as  saleratus  or  yeast.  Were  it 
not  for  their  remote  situaUon.  these  springs  would  be  mucri 
resorted  to,  especially  during  the  summer  months.  I  he  coui.- 
iry  is  mountainous,  and  its  aliitude  so  great,  that  the  air  is 
always  cool,  and  consequently  must  be  heahhy. 

Companies  -rishing  to  remain  for  a  length  of  Ume  at  the 
springs,  would  pursue  a  proper  course  in  driving  their  catUe 
over  the  river,  as  good  grazing  can  thereby  be  had. 

Augu$t  6.     We  traveled  about  nineteen  miles.    Five  milea 
brought  UH  to  where  the  road  leaves  the  river,  and  bears  north- 
ward  through  a  valley.    The  river  bears  to  the  southward  and 
empties  iliTwaters  into  Big  Salt  Lake.    The  range  of  moun- 
Uins  bounding  the  north  side  of  the  river  here  comes  to  withm 
a  half  mUe  of  it,  then  bears  off  to  the  north,  leaving  a  valley  of 
about  seven  or  eight  miles  in  width  between  it  and  a  range 
coming  from  Lewis  river,  and  extending  south  towards  Salt 
Lake.    The  range  bounding  the  south  side  of  the  river  comes 
abrupay  to  the  sUeam  at  this  point,  presenting  huge  and  cum- 
brous masses  of  basaltic  rock,  but  it  is  generally  covered  with 
heavy  Umber.    At  this  point  two  IraUs  are  found :  one  striking 
west,  across  the  vaUey,  to  the  opposite  side ;  Uie  oUier,  which 
U  Uie  nearest  and  best,  follows  around  Uie  point,  hugging  the 
base  of  the  mountain  for  several  miles.   ..''•'<»»"''«"• ''S^ 
mUes  distant,  and  immediately  beneath  a  cliff  of  rocks  by  the 
the  road  side,  is  to  be  found  a  soda  pool.    A  litde  snnng  of 
cool  aoda  water  runs  out  at  Uie  base  of  the  rock,  w"  «  o«»«> 
of  eiiiht  or  ten  yards  in  extent,  and  about  two  and  one  halt  feet 
hiirh  has  been  formed.    Inside  of  this,  is  a  pool  of  water  ;— 
Uii  material  composing  Uio  bank  around,  is  of  a  white  color. 
In  a  few  miles  travel,  we  crossed  several  spring  branches. 
We  Uien  directed  our  course  Uirough  the  pUm  for  some  eight 
or  nine  mdes,  to  where  we  encamped.    Our  camp  was  located 
near  a  spring  branch ;  but  a  small  quantity  of  wood  was  found, 
srazinc  wasewsellent.    From  where  Uie  road  leaves  Uie  river, 
the  counuy  presents  every  appearance  of  having  been  volcanic 
at  some  period.     Craters  are  yet  standing  in  the  p  am,  exht- 
biUng  posiUve  evidence  of  this  fact.     A  large  mound  has  been 
fonwd  by  Uie  lava  ejected  from  Uiis  crater,    la  Uie  centre  la 


upon  the  soutn 
le  north  side  but 
loticed  consittetl 
11(1  in  abundance, 
cientiy  itrong  to 
yeast.  Were  it 
would  be  muirh 
itht.  The  coui.- 
t,  that  the  air  is 

I  or  time  at  the 
riving  their  cattle 
e  had. 

liles.  Five  mile* 
,  and  bean  north- 
iie  fouthward  and 
B  range  of  moun- 
e  cornea  to  within 
eaving  a  valley  of 
n  it  and  a  range 
tuth  towards  Salt 
(f  the  river  comes 
ng  huge  and  cum- 
Blly  covered  with 
tund:  one  striking 
;  the  otherj  which 
>oint,  hugging  the 
rwo  and  one  half 
ff  of  rocks  by  the 

A  little  spring  of 
)  rock,  and  a  baain 
a  and  one  half  feet 

pool  of  water;— 
I  of  a  white  color. 
i  spring  branches, 
lain  for  some  eight 
r  camp  was  located 
)f  wood  was  found; 
«d  leaves  tlie  river, 
aving  been  voloanic 

in  the  plain,  exht- 
ge  mound  has  been 
r.    la  the  oenUre  ii 


THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAIN& 


41 


a  deep  cavity ;  now  partially  filled,  from  the  falling  in  of  the 
masses  of  bank  surrounding  it.  In  every  direction  the  eye 
rests  upon  fragments  of  rock,  which  have  been  thrown  out  in 
a  hot  and  burniug  condition,  many  of  them  melted  and  united  i 
pieces  resembling  broken  junk  bottles  or  black  glass  lay  scat* 
tared  over  the  pUin.  The  valley  for  ten  or  twelve  miles  ia 
eoverad  with  stone  of  this  description.  In  many  places  Uie 
rocks  have  been  liHed  or  bulced  up  to  an  elevation  of  ten  or 
fifiaen  feet,,  the  top  has  been  burst  asunder,  presenting  a  cavity 
of  eight  or  ten  feet  in  width,  caused  by  the  fragments  having 
been  cast  out ;  the  depth  of  the  cavity  is  from  twenty  to  thirty 
feet,  the  aides  have  a  black  appearance,  and  exhibit  indications 
of  having  been  burned ;  at  other  places  the  rock  had  been  lifted 
up,  and  elevated  above  the  surface  of  the  earth  some  five  or 
six  feet,  and  about  the  same  in  width,  having  numerous  small 
apertures  in  ii,  the  centre  being  concave.  The  stone  forms  a 
complete  arch.  At  other  places  the  rock  has  been  rent,  and  a 
chasm  of  thirty  or  forty  feet  io  dapth  and  from  two  to  ten  feet 
in  width,  has  been  the  result.  These  chasms  are  abont  one 
quarter  of  a  mile  in  length.  The  fragments  lay  in  every  di- 
rection. 

The  country  over  this  plain  is  rather  barren ;  bat  at  certain 
seasons  of  the  year,  is  covered  with  grass,  which  during  tha 
summer  months  dies,  leaving  but  little  appeanatf  e  of  vegeution. 
After  we  had  halted  for  the  night,  three  families  who  had  sepa- 
rated from  our  company  at  the  Soda  Springs,  passed  as.  A 
few  hours  had  elapsed,  and  we  espied  one  of  their  number  re- 
turning post  haste  to  our  camp.  When  he  arrived,  he  was  so 
paralysed  with  fear,  that  it  was  with  difficulty  we  obtained 
from  him  the  cause  of  his  alarm.  It  appeared  evident,  from 
bia  statement,  that  a  party  of  Snake  Induma  meditated  an  aU 
taok  upon  thejr  party.  We  dispatched  a  company  to  their 
relief,  but  sooa  bad  the  gratification  to  witness  the  return  of 
tiieir  wagons  to  our  camp.  It  appears  that  one  of  tbeir  num- 
ber had  marehfid  about  two  milea  in  advance  of  the  wagons, 
when  he  was  disoovared  by  a  party  of  Snake  Indiana,  lurking 
in  the  vicinity,  who  immediately  gave  him  chase,  at  every  step 
uttetiitf  tha  most  terrifie  yells,  mid  endeavoured  to  anrroand 
him }  but  aa  ha  was  satridle  a  fleet  American  coarser,  be  sue* 
ceiled  in  outstripping  them,  and  arrived  at  tha  wagona  in  tima 
to  prepare  for  thetr  auproach.  The  wagona  war*  then  in  a 
daap  ranoa,  and  eould  sat  b*  aeao,  by  tha  Indiana  in  jwiaait, 
until  within  aavonty-five  yards.  At  toon  aa  tha  Indiana  dia* 
4 


HMW 


*g  JOtJRWAL  OF  TRAVELS  OVER 

covered  their  proximity  to  the  wngoni  they  commenced  a  pre 

eipitata  retreat,  and  the  •'"»?'""'»  «i»'i;«*'.*»"'P'  mil*.   The 
Auguut  6.     We  traveled  ihia  day  about  fifteen  mdea.  I  he 

„,ad  r.even  mile.  i.  «P  the  valley ,  it  tj*-**^"  7  ^  ** 
mountoin.  to  the  water,  nmv.mg  into  Snake  or  Le w »  n^J 
The  hiah  ranjre  of  mountama  which  bear*  off  »«*"«•  ^' 
iSf  terminate,  near  the  road  on  the  left.  The  road  follow, 
r™  inl^d  wind,  about  among  the  hill.,  and  thickeu  of 
;o"kinV..pen,  until  it  mche.  a  ■Pfi'*.^""^''',''?*';''''^?," 
foC  to  near  Fort  Hall.  Over  the  ndge.  and  ^r  two  ».!?. 
down  the  branch,  there  i.  but  little  gra..  found.  At  the  ouh 
ir.  oHhree  mile.,  on  our  left  up  .he  mountain  were  i«v.rd 
patche.  of  .now.    A  few  of  our  party  brought  «)me  of  the 

'TulTr 'Thi.  day  we  made  about  eighteen  mile..  For 
ten  S  the  road  i.  Jry  good.  Alo„«  'he  .tream  »  ound 
willow  bmah,  answering  for  fuel.  The  laat  "«'•"""•"•■ 
rverawndvilain;  it  wa.  dry,  and  very  heavy  traveling.  Our 
cIlwM  at  I  large  .pring  of  cold  .vater ;  grazing  wa.  very 

^AuKU,t  8.  We  traveled  but  five  mile.,  which  brought  u. 
««  Pnrt  H Jl     Thi.  i.  a  trading  poat  in  the  posseaaion  of  the 

tbTmoantaiS,  it  i.  bnfit  of  mud  or  adobe..    (Thi.  Uroi 
Mplirto  ""burnt  brck.)  They  are  of  a  .imilar  co.«-J««»»^- 
XCh  comer  U  a  bastk/n.  projecUng  »«» "T ^^  ?f » ^,7, 
fiwt.  nerforated  with  hole,  for  fire-aim..    Captain  Orwi  w 
Si  ffe  officer  in  command ;  h.  h«i.  fe  bearing  oj  J  lenUj. 
™-n     The  nniwn  wa.  mppUed  with  flour,  which  had  been 
?,S;  JtStfTitTlemenS; in  Ore^n,  and  brought  her.  on 
5S  hSaS    They  wld  it  to  the  •.^«r«.t.  for  twe»»y  doMm 
S^  «wL  tokin*  cattle  in  exchange ;  and  a.  many  of  the  emi- 
JLntTwero  iSriTout  of  flour,  and  h«l  a  few  lame  cattle,  a 
Ck  tSTwM  cTrriS  on  between  them  and  the  inhabitwif 
Sfthe  forJ    JnSe  exchange  of  catUe  for  flour,  an  dlowanc. 
wi  mSJof  5«rfive  to  ISelve  dollar,  per  head     Th^rdjo 
ha?  horae.  which  they  readily  exchanged  ?«>'««'*  «1!^„*2 
«,.h     T'ho  Brioe  demanded  ftw  home.  w*.  from  fifteen  to 

SSitrXe  £52..    They  «>«W  »«»  ^  P"'^'^*  "^  "^ 

"ttS2  Si^SJ'wide,  and  covered  with  «-..TW. 
i.  tt^toSTe  of  wood  for  fuel,  fencing.  And  o&er  purpo^-. 


ommtneed  a  pre 

ir  parly. 

Oeen  milea.  The 
sn  iaktm  over  the 
I  or  Lewii  river, 
off  towards  Sdt 
The  road  follows 
,  and  thickeU  of 
ch,  down  which  it 
and  for  two  nilea 
und.  At  the  dii- 
itain,  were  aeveral 
lught  some  of  the 

rhteen  milee.  For 
e  ttream  is  found 
ist  seven  miles  is 
ivy  traveling.  Our 
grazing  was  very 

which  brought  us 
i  possession  of  the 
on  the  east  side  of 
»bes.  (This  term 
imilar  construction, 
itome  eight  or  ten 

Captain  Grant  is 
earing  of  a  gentle- 
uf,  which  had  been 
tnd  brought  here  on 
ts  for  twenty  doHars 
■  many  of  the  emi- 
i  few  lame  catde,  a 
and  the  inhabitanta 

flour,  an  allowance 
trhead.  They  also 
for  cattle  or  sold  for 
was  from  fifteen  to 

prevailed  vfoa  to 
|oods  or  provisionsi, 

IwithtrMt.  TlMl^ 
And  ouer  puipoeea. 


THE  ROCItY  MOUNTAINi.  4$ 

No  ntlempt  has,  as  yet,  bei-n  made  to  cultivate  the  soil.  I 
think  the  drought  too  great ;  but  if  irrigation  were  resorted  to, 
I  doubt  not  it  would  produce  some  kinds  of  grain,  tuoh  as 
wheat,  corn,  potatoes,  Ac  ,.  *  u 

Our  camp  was  I  cated  one  mile  to  the  south-west  of  the 
fort ;  and  as  at  si  .le  other  forts,  the  Indians  swarmed  about 
us.  f  They  ara  of  the  Snake  tribe,  and  Inhabit  the  country 
bordering  oi.  Lewie  and  Bear  rivers,  and  their  various  tribu- 
taries. This  tribe  is  said  to  be  numerous ;  but  In  consequence 
of  the  continual  wars  which  they  hive  engaged  in  with  the 
Sioux,  Crows  and  Blackfeet,  their  numbers  are  rapidly  dimin- 
ishing. '  '  .....,,.    i.   »  I 

Snake  river,  which  flows  within  one  half  mile  of  the  fort,  U 
a  clear  and  beautiful  stream  of  water.  It  courses  over  a  nebbly 
bottom.  Its  width  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards.  It 
abounds  in  fish  of  diflerenl  varieties,  which  are  readily  taken 
with  the  hook.  , 

While  we  remained  in  this  place,  great  efforts  were  made 
to  induce  the  emigrants  to  pursue  the  route  to  California.  The 
most  extravagant  tales  were  related  respecting  the  daurars  that 
awaited  •  trip  to  Oregon,  and  of  the  difficulUee  and  trials  to  be 
surmounted.  The  perils  of  the  way  were  so  nagnlHed  as  to 
make  us  suppose  the  jovmey  to  Oregon  almost  impossible. 
Foi  instance,  the  two  oroeslngt  of  Snakt  river,  and  the  oroesin| 
of  the  Jolumbia,  and  other  smaller  atreams,  were  represented 
as  being  attended  with  great  danger;  also  that  no  «»«n^V 
heretofore  attempting  the  piMage  of  these  streams,  succeeded, 
but  with  the  loss  of  men,  ftom  the  violence  and  rapidity  of  the 
current;  as  also  that  they  had  never  succeeded  in  getUng  more 
than  fifteen  or  twenty  head  of  cattle  into  the  Wlllemette  valley. 
In  addition  to  the  above,  it  was  asseited  that  three  or  four 
tribes  of  Indians,  in  the  middle  region,  had  combined  for  the 
purpose  of  preventing  oar  passage  through  their  country,  and 
should  we  attempt  it,  we  wouldT>e  eomp«>iled  to  contend  with 
these  hostile  tribes.  In  case  we  eecaped  destrucUon  at  the 
hands  of  the  savages,  that  a  more  fearftil  enemy,  that  of  famine, 
would  attend  our  march;  u  tho  distance  was  so  great  that 
winter  wooid  overtake  us  befoPi  inak'.ng  the  passage  of  ibe 

Cascade  Mountains.  .««,.<• 

On  the  odier  hand,  as  an  indttoemenl  to  pursue  the  Oalifonw 
route,  we  were  informed  of  the  ihcrtneee  of  the  route,  when 
compared  with  that  to  Oregon ;  m  also  of  mtoy  *t»ier  luperior 
advant^;es  it  possessed. 


mfm 


tarn 


*|  JOWanAL  OF  TRAVBI*  ovkh 

Thew  tolet,  told  and  rehecwed,  were  likely  to  produe«  tht 
fff,!cl  of  turning  the  lide  of  emigration  lliiUier.  Mr.  Green- 
wood, an  old  mountaineer,  well  etocked  with  falaeliooda,  had 
been  diipatched  from  California  to  pilot  the  •mW""'"  through  j 
wd  acsiated  by  a  young  man  by  the  name  of  MeDougal,  from 
Indiana,  ao  far  eucceetled  aa  to  induo4»  thirty.ftvo  or  ihirty-au 

wacona  to  hike  that  trail.  ,    r    n  m 

About  aAMn  wagone  had  been  fitted  out,  expreialy  for  Cali^ 
fomia;  and,  joined  by  the  lhirty-fi»e  aforementioned,  <Kp». 
pleted  a  train  of  fifty  wagona ;  what  the  reault  of  lUeir  expe- 
dition  haa  been,  I  haw  not  been  able  to  learn. 

^ugvit  0.  Thia  day  we  trareled  about  eight  mUea  ,  nre 
inilea  brought  ua  to  the  croaalng  of  Portneth.  Thiaia  a  atream 
heading  ia  the  mounlaina  near  the  Soda  Springa.  receiving 
numeroua  branche*  in  thia  bottom,  and  ia  here  about  eighty 
yarda  in  width.  From  thia  place,  it  U  one  mile  to  «>«  "»••: 
fngof  a  narrow  slough,  wiih  steep  banks.  We  crossed,  and 
journpyed  two  milea  to  the  bank  of  Snake  river,  where  wo 
Moamped.     Eight  wagons  joined  us  at  our  encampment. 

^uguat  10.     We  remained  in  camp. 

JiugUMt  U.  Thia  day  we  traveled  about  eight  niiesj 
which  brought  ua  to  within  on«  mile  of  the  American  falU.1 
Our  camp  wae  at  the  springs.  An  island  m  the  river  afforded 
excellent  giaiing  for  catde.   The  countiy  is  extremely  barren, 

^^aSun^it  ^I  "**We  utveled  about  fifteen  milea,  which  brought 
na  to  Levy  creek,  or  BeaverKiaiu  creek,  aa  it  la  aomeUmea 
termed;  it  ia  a  amuU  atream-,  iu  watera  flow  down  a  aucoea- 
•ioD  of  faUs,  pr.Mlucing  a  handeome  eaac«le:  it  hu  the  appear- 
•BM  of  haviilg  been  built  up  by  beaTcr.  The  property  of  the 
water  hae  turned  the  malerlalinto  stone;  »»»• 'T'^' •P"^ 'f 
be  impretoated  with  soda;  the  rocks  along  the  bank  are  ol 
(hat  fornTation.  The  beat  camp  ia  two  m'^^fi""'"  «»•  ^ 
JluruBt  13.  Thia  day  we  traveled  about  e»ght  milea,  to 
Casaia  creek;  here  the  California  trail  turns  off.    The  road 

lag  oUl»nia  aqusl.  to  point  of  sou,  to  lh«ir  lugh  wrought  anikipaliau, 

have  mtdo  the  b«t  of  their  way  to  Oragon.  t^«w--««.    A 

t  ThMS  M\»  d«lv.  their  name  from  the  following  dtc«"«^^»2:    * 

BnLb«  of  Amerlcn  t»pp«a  going  *T!L*"*  TZ^  '^.  STS*^ 
hZriwaN  of  Ihwr  prMiimtey  to  tha  fclk  were  bunied  elong  by  the  v^ 
3  rfS  oiZl  I'wd  pifag  «m  the  Wle,  but  COS  of  the  munhs. 


THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


4S 


^  to  producA  tha 
ler.  Mr.  Green- 
1  falieliooda,  had 
itigrBnU  through ; 
MeDounI,  from 
ftv«  or  Uiirty-ux 

xpr«Mly  for  C«li» 
tmentioned,  eq/a- 
ult  of  tbflir  exp«- 

eight  miles ;  five 
,  This  is  K  stream 
ipring*.  receiving 
tiere  about  eighty 
mile  to  the  croes- 
We  crossed,  and 
a  river,  where  we 
encampment. 

MUt  ei^ht  miles; 

B  American  fvlU.I 

a  the  river  afibrded 

extremely  barren, 

lies,  which  brought 
la  it  is  sometimes 
w  down  «  succes- 
:  ithutheappear- 
'he  property  of  tho 
le  water  appears  to 
I  the  bank  are  of 
as  farther  on. 
sot  ewht  miles,  to 
rns  off.    The  road 

intoallud«lto,natfiikU 
wrought  uiikiiialkmi, 

iflns  dreaiMianea.  A 
tm  in  thair  canoM,  not 
anted  along  bjr  tha  vm^ 
bttl  ona  of  the  niunlisc 


has  been  very  dusty  and  heafy  travplinf.  The  oountry  pre- 
senls  the  same  usual  barren  appearance. 

^uguil  14.  Thia  day  we  (raveled  about  fifleen  milea,  and 
reaciieil  Marshy  apriiig ;  (he  road  has  been  atony  and  dusty  ; 
the  country  musUy  deati(u(e  of  vegetation— nothing  growing 
but  the  wild  sage  and  wormwood. 

Augutt  10.  We  traveled  but  eleven  mUes.  The  road  runs 
over  a  sage  plain  for  eight  miles,  when  it  crosses  (he  stream 
from  tlie  marsh ;  no  water  running,  and  but  little  standing  in 
pools.  At  (he  dis(ance  of  three  milea  the  road  strikes  (he  river 
bottom,  at  the  lower  end  of  (his,  at  which  place  the  road  leaves 
it;  here  wss  found  a  good  camp. 

Augtut  16.  We  traveled  about  twen(y-(hree  miles.  Four 
miles  brought  us  (o  Goose  creek.  We  found  difficuUy  in  cross- 
ing, and  no  good  loca(ion  for  a  camp.  After  seven  miles  travel 
we  reached  the  river ;  but  li(de  grass.  Twelve  miles  brought 
us  (o  Dry  Branch ;  here  alao  waa  un8ui(able  ground  for  en- 
camping, as  (he  wa(«r  was  standing  in  pools.  The  road  we 
traveled  was  very  dusty,  and  portions  of  it  quite  stony ;  here 
the  river  runs  through  a  rocky  kanyon.  The  cliffs  are  some- 
times of  the  height  of  one  thousand  feet,  and  nearly  perpendi- 
cular. Above  the  kanyon,  tlie  river  ia  two  or  three  hundred 
yards  wide ;  but  at  this  place  it  is  not  more  than  one  hundred 
and  fiAy  feet ;  and  at  one  pUce,  where  there  is  a  fall  of  some 
twenty  feet,  its  wi  h  does  not  exceed  seventy-five  feet.  In 
our  march  thia  day  I  aUemp(ed  (o  get  down  to  the  river,  to 
procure  a  drink  of  water,  but  for  aix  miles  was  unable  to  do 
so,  owing  (o  the  steep  {Nrecipi(ous  banks. 

Augutt  17.  Wa  traveled  but  eight  miles.  The  road  lay 
aver  a  sage  |dain  to  the  bottom  on  Rock  creek.  Here  we 
found  a  very  good  camp. 

JhtguU  18.  Thia  day  wa  traveled  about  twenty  iJidas. 
Aflar  the  distance  of  eight  miles  we  arrived  at  the  crossii^  of 
Rock  creek,  (in  a  kanyon,)  here  we  halted  for  dinner,  and  gave 
our  catUa  water.  We  then  took  up  the  bluff,  and  traveled  over 
sand  and  sage  plains  for  about  twelve  miles.  When  night 
overtook  us  we  drove  to  the  top  of  the  river  bluff  and  encamp- 
ed. Wa  drove  our  oattle  one  and  a  half  milea  down  the  bluff 
to  the  river  for  water.  Here  we  found  a  litde  grass  and  green 
bruah,  but  it  was  not  sufficient  in  quantity  to  supply  our  eattlot 
and  we  eoukl  do  no  better.  We  paekad  water  up  the  bluff  to 
our  camp.  The  bluffa  at  this  place  exceed  one  thousand  feet 
in  height ;  they  ara  of  basalt.    Tba  road  ia  on  a  high  bama 


wfm 


MMHH* 


46 


JOURNAL  or  TRAVEL*  OVgR 


plain ;  a  range  of  mountaini  !•  on  our  left  hard  by,  and  at  a 
treat  dinanre  on  our  right  anoiher  range  uppeara. 

Jiuruat  19.     We  traveled  about  iweWe  milei.    Nine  mtlea 
brouirht  ui  to  where  we  pais  down  to  the  ri»er  bottom ;  from 
thii  point  the  diaiance  to  the  river  wai  three  roilei.     A  warm 
•prins  branch  emptiea  ilaell  into  the  river  at  ihia  place,     fcmt- 
granta  would  purauea  more  proper  courae  by  encamping  on 
five  bottom,  near  die  eonrce  of  Hock  crwk.  then  drive  down  to 
wliore  the  road  croaaea  in  a  *an.yon,  then  following  »b«  road 
for  eight  or  nine  miiea  to  where  the  road  loavea  the  bluff  of 
the  creek  and  encamp,  driving  their  cattle  into  the  creek  Dot- 
torn.     From  thia  place  they  can  drive  to  Salmon  Fall  creen, 
iuat  four  milea  below  our  preaent  oncampmen^  follow  down 
this  creek  to  it*  mouth,  where  will  be  found  an  eicelleiit  camp. 
JluruU  20.     Wo  traveled  about  nine  milea,  reaching  the 
Salmon  Falla.     Here  are  eighteen  or  twenty  Indian  huU. 
Salmon  come  up  to  theaa  falla:  the  Indiana  have  an  abundanc. 
of  them,  which  tiiey  very  readUy  diapoae  of  for  hooka,  powder, 
bolla.  clothing,  calico  and  knivea,  and  m  fact  for  almoat  any 
thlni  we  have  at  our  diapoaal. 

The  river  at  thia  place  ia  a  auceeaaion  of  cataracta  for  aeveral 
mUea,  the  higheat  of  which  doea  not  exceed  twelve  feet,  1 IM 
mzinff  waa  very  poor,  and  the  country  barren  aa  uaual. 

Jiuinut  21.  Wo  traveled  about  twelve  mdea;  for  two 
mUea^ie  ro«i  i.  up  a  aandy  hiU.  it  then  atrike.  a  "ndy  aaw 
plain,  over  which  it  takes  ita  courae  for  ten  mdea.  Here  night 
overtook  ua,  aa  we  had  commenced  our  mareh  ata  very  late 
hour  on  account  of  having  loat  aome  horaea .  Our  camp  waa 
on  the  (op  of  the  river  bluff.  It  ia  one  mile  to  w^r  I  but  htt^. 
Kvaaa  waa  found.  Thia  dny  we  found  aeveral  h«ad  of  ©a  Ue 
that  had  given  out  from  fatigue  of  traveling,  tfome  of  the 
companiea  had  been  racing,  endeavoring  to  P"?  •«'L^«|; 
and  MW  they  have  reached  a  region  where  but  httla  graM  la 
found— we  beginning  to  reap  the  reward  of  their  folly. 

Tugutt  »?    Our  cattle  were  ao  much  aeatlered  that  it  waa 

bte  in  the  day  when  we  prepared  to  reaumo  our  march.     We 

Saveled  about  te»  milea.    At  ni.ht  we  lefi  the  road,  and  dt- 

wcted  onr  courae  to  the  "l^^^own  a  ravine  to  the  river, 

.  where  we  encamped.    Our  catde  Buffered  much  for  want  of 

'^gMt  28.  Thia  morning  we  turned  op  the  ravinefor 
on^JSThalf  mile.,  and  then  atmck  «n  the  hUl  to  »he  ro^ 
Three  andahalf  milen  broti|ht  «•  to  whei«  the  road  croaeee 


[.t,!,  ipnaiiMTi'  irwi  TTT^' 


THE  ROCKy  MOUNTAINS. 


hard  by.  tnd  at  ■ 
xtu*. 

lilei.  Nine  mllea 
iver  bottom ;  froia 
I  milef.  A  wirm 
this  place.  ISmU 
by  encamping  on 
hen  drive  down  to 
ollowing  the  road 
avea  the  bluff  of 
nto  the  i-reek  bot- 
)atmon  Fall  creek, 
nent,  follow  down 
an  exeelletil  camp, 
iiilea,  reaching  the 
enty  Indian  nuta. 
have  an  abundance 
for  hooka,  powder, 
lot  for  almoat  any 

ataracta  for  aeveral 
I  twelve  feet  The 
rren  aa  uaual. 
re  milea;  for  two 
irikea  a  aandy  aace 
milea.  Here  pignt 
nareh  at  a  very  late 
■.  Our  camp  waa 
I  to  water;  butlitUe 
'Oral  head  of  eattle 
iing.    dome  of  the 

0  paaa  each  other, 
■e  but  little  graM  ia 
r  their  folly, 
■catlered  that  it  waa 
le  our  march.  We 
id  the  road,  and  dl- 
avine  to  the  river, 

1  much  for  want  of 

d  up  the  ravine  for 
the  hill  to  the  road 
IN  the  road  eroaaee 


the  Snake  river.  In  coming  down  to  the  river  bottom,  ther« 
ia  a  very  steep  hill.  Along  the  shore  of  Ihii  river  wus  a  little 
graaa;  there  are  two  iaianila  covered  with  grnss,  lo  that  oui 
cattle  were  aoon  repaid  for  their  privations  lieri-tufure.  The 
difllcultiei  attending  the  eroeaing  of  thia  stream  had  been  repre- 
aented  rs  being  almost  insurmountable ;  but  upon  examiiiatioi 
we  found  it  an  exagverstion.  From  the  n.aiu  ahore  to  Aril 
island  there  is  no  dimculty;  from  first  to  second  island,  turn 
well  up,  until  nearly  acruaa,  then  bear  down  to  where  tlie  road 
entera  it.  'i'he  water  ia  not  deep  until  nearly  across,  and  not 
then  if  you  keep  well  up  stream.  From  second  island  to  main 
aliore  is  more  uifficult ;  it  ia  about  three  hundred  yards  wide 
and  the  current  very  rapid.  Strike  in,  heading  well  up  for 
two  rods,  then  quartering  a  little  down  until  oi^t  or  (en  rods 
from  shore :  then  quartering  a  little  up  for  fit'ieen  or  twenty 
roda ;  then  alrike  up  for  the  eoming  out  pluce  ;  the  bottom  ie 
gravelly.  With  the  exception  of  a  iew  holes,  the  water  for 
the  firat  fifteen  loda  ia  the  deepest  part  of  the  ford.  The  bot- 
tom is  very  uneven ;  there  are  holee  found  of  aix  or  eight  feel 
in  width,  many  of  them  awimmiiig.  Those  eroasing  titia 
atream  can  escape  the  deepeat  of  these  holes  by  having  horse- 
men in  the  van  and  nt  each  aide ;  it  ia  necessary  that  there  be 
attached  to  each  wagon  four  or  aix  yoke  of  oxen,  the  current 
being  ewift ;  and  in  the  paaeage  of  theae  holes,  previously  al- 
hided  to,  when  one  yoke  ia  compelled  to  ewim,  the  othera  may 
be  in  ahallow  water.  Great  care  must  be  taken  Uiat  these 
toama  be  iMt  beat  down  too  low  and  paaa  over  the  ripple ;  and 
to  prevent  auoh  a  eaaualty,  two  drivera  muat  attond  each  wa- 

En.  Before  attempting  the  passage  of  liie  river  all  articlea 
Ue  to  damage,  from  eomiag  ia  contact  with  the  water,  ahould 
be  piled  on  the  top  of  the  wagmi  bed.  We  commenced  croao- 
itm  at  eleven  o'ouick,  A.M.,  and  at  one  o'clock,  P.M..  we 
eoeeled  the  paaeage  of  the  atream,  and  were  so  fortunate  aa  to 
land  our  gooda  free  from  all  damage.  We  traveled  two  miiee 
to  a  aprlhg  branch  and  pitehed  oor  encampment.  Good  graaa, 
wood  and  water,  were  procured  in  plenty. 

Jlugu$t24.  We  traveled  but  aix  milea.  Soon  after  leaving 
camp  we  direeted  onr  eouree  up  a  atony  hill ;  thence  over  a 
•age  plain  to  a  spring  branch.  We  puraued  our  way  up  thia 
branch  for  <me  mile,  where  we  obtained  good  grazing  for  our 
eattle;  a  high  range  of  hilla  appearing  on  our  right,  at  the 
diatanoe  of  two  milea,  an  oceaaional  grove  of  pin*  timber  upon 
than  I  bnt,  b  gcnenj,  the  moontaina  here  are  eovend  with 


<Si  "*-m 


f  = 


If 


jg  JOURNAL  or  TRAVW*  <rH» 

gnu ;  noin«roui  ttretrnt  (Muing  from  their  iidrt.  tnil  p«jr5»f 
&  w.u.r.  in  lh«  pl..n  b«low.  Thar.  i>  no  .ppwrwiw  of 
vogllon  unul  you  re.ch  ih.  low  bottom,  ^"•"'-''•'••yr'^ 
,hJ  w.ler'.  «dg..  Th.  ro.d  tr.».led  'onl-y  wm  n«^ -^ 
Th«  Indiin.  ilonu  ihi.  ra«d  ar.  ««p#rt  inlhdl.iMl  WT^' 
A  vouni  m.n  h.vinj  •  hor.a  which  It.  h«l  l»k«n  mach  p.iM 
i,  J^tKwhVn  night  .npro.r.h.d.  .tekad  .nd  hobhM  h.m. 

tS;  ramp,  SnhobbW  L  hor«.  e«i  »>»•  "^^  'T;\Jrdr5 
l.-aTin«  he  youn»  m.n  undieUirbed  in  ^^'^^-^^^^1 
theretlter.  t^i.  imti.n  effc-cti-.!  •  mI«  of  th.  horM  to  oM  of  • 
nwiv  of  Bmigrmnt*  traveling  behind  u«, 

v^u/M«<«6.     W«  rcraaioed  in  camp.  ...«.„«.. 

IoJmToJ  a  .mall  ri.«».»..i  •  f^^f  "J*  "Idit^h 
ahore  the  road,  and  n«r  the  moucf.  of  the  ^«<  f  P"»« '•f^* 
Uetweenl'.or..adind  th«  mouniwii  i*^  «"«'•»?  **r/*""fj 
The  river  >•  about  eight  mil.,  on  ourl.fi »  »h.  .p.««  b«»w«Hin 

'••^r^'r^'w^fratw  -ba«l  .itte.„  mile.,  on.  miU 
brot^KlI  the  Hot  Spring.,  ««r  whieh  Ute  r.>.d  p«.«. 
•S«  epring.  .re  in  .  oon.t.fv4  .tal.  of  tbulUtion.  rh.y 
Ser  a  ftve  to  .1..  exU.„di„g  -«  «  "^J^JJ^  7^«  J 
three  v»rd..  all  uniting  and  forming  .  itreMa  of  on.  y*ro  m 
J  dY«r  »«lt  three'in«h<»  deep,  running  qu.U»  raptd.  Th. 
Zm  i.  .uffiei.nay  hot  for  eul  n«y  ir7,f?f-  *^„*"S; 
riwta  off  aDProaching  the  ffloontom.  which  i.  h.lf  .  »»•  oie" 
£  ^'  alSr  .p?ng..  ih.  w.t*«  of  whinh  flow  »ta  .  «.er 

!^«i.«^no.lrou.  to  «Mt  th.  qittUtiw  of  Ike  w.t.r  iffofdwi  by 
XKrin-  Hi?  owner.,  ming  hi.  i-rfi-'i^'/W^ 
toa^t  lTitep.,butf«l.d}  wk.»  he  .rrived  .1  Ui.br.nk 

of  ;rof  ."em.  .'S  .tuck  hU  no«.  ^^P'^Pt"^^^ /;» 
Z  a  dranghl  of  t5i.  ddiciou.  nwJtar,  h.  imii>.d^tt.ly  ^J^J^ 

Ind  3ihe  welkin  ring  by.  hi-  »-"?.•'[« LJi'ilS  tl^S 
"ng.  he  ahowed  he  wM  eridwiUy  di.plw.«d  wjU.  h«iw»U: 
Ouf  camo  wo  on  Barrel  er^k  bottom,  wh»ch  w  t.ry  nwrsw, 

..vISTiinning b«»nch«.  Th.  ro«l  i.  n«Hr  th.  ^^^ 
"r.1"?  wifd  »g«,.nd  «.«.  wood  found  in  pl«ty.  Ei. 
AMniMid  OB  Oharlott.'.  fork,  »  •mill  branch.  . 

^i«<«i      W.  t«wled  .boat  .ighto.n  m^  wjkj 
J^t\l:  Boi.  rim.  .  .t.««n  of  forty  or  hfty  y.«i.  »« 


Tin  woatr  MooNTAmft 


4t 


no  appMrMic*  of 
mmadUtcly  tia^H 
wu  quiW  tUHiy. 
lh«ft  ■wl  mfiMfy. 
itkan  mueh  paiM 
•nd  hobbled  him. 
I  Indian  *in\e  InW 
Uid  took  hiio  oif, 
•ep.  A  few  <»•/• 
hOTM  lo  OM  M  ft 


M  5  Q«ir  camp  waa 
a  niil«'t  diatanee 
iot  Spring  branch, 
[raving  wa«  fountft 
Uia  tpMM  b«lw«an 

1  milMi  one  iniU 
It  the  riMui  paaaaa. 
tbulUtioa.    TiMy 
aarf»ee  of  two  to 
un  of  one  yard  in 
[  quite  n^pid.    The 
CM.     About  fiiWa 
it  half  a  miU  dun 
ih  flow  into  n  reaer 
■fing  (o  oar  party, 
«  wattr  aflbrdad  by 
icUaatkm,  aliiHBpttNl 
krrivad  al  Ui<!  brink 
Mratory  to  indulging 
imedtately  whealad, 
g  i  kicking  uid  ronr 
paaed  with  hivMU^ 
liich  is  t«ry  nairsw. 
e«n  milM.  eroaMng 
lear  the  baa*  olf  th« 
ittd  in  pitoty.    Ear 

btMn  iiiU««»  whWi 
•riy  or  tAy  ytwi«  io 


widih,  and  >boi;nding  in  lalmon  i  ita  banks  ar«  linsd  with 
Calm  of  Otkaii  timber.  I'he  boUjma  here  ars  two  or  three 
niilsa  wiifo,  and  eoverod  with  grasi , 

^lufiuit  30.  We  (raveled  about  el<tv«n  miles.  The  road 
is  eumetimes  on  bottom,  al  others,  on  lihiff.  The  Indiana  are 
yiBty  nam«roiia  niong  (his  ttresm  ;  thry  have  a  lar^re  number 
of  lionea ;  vlixhing  is  in  much  demand  i  fur  articlee  of  rlnthing 
costing  in  the  Spates  teo  or  twelve  dollars,  t  very  good  horse 
csft  be  »»h'.cinsd. 

Jiufftut  SI.  We  traveled  about  14  miles.  The  roed  pui^ 
suae  its  course  down  tlie  valley  uf  (I*)  Bots  river. 

Stfttmhtr  I.  We  traveled  about  tliirteen  milee.  Two 
miles  from  Mmn  we  crossed  Bois  river.  8umn  of  the  bottoms 
are  covered  with  grass,  others  with  wdd  sage  snd  grease  wood. 
The  roed  was  very  dusty.  There  is  uot  much  timber  aloof 
tlie  stream,  but  great  quantities  of  brush. 

Srptfmhtr  %.  Ws  rsMihed  Fort  Bois.  This  is  •  trtding 
post  of  iha  Hudson's  Bay  <Jomp«ny,  eitahlislied  upon  the 
Rnrtheri)  side  of  Snake  or  Lewis  river,  and  one  nule  below  Ute 
mouth  of  Bds  river.  This  fort  wss  erected  for  the  purpose 
of  i««niiiing,  or  «•  en  intetmediaie  poet,  more  than  as  a  traiding 

Cioint.  It  is  built  of  the  same  msteitsls,  ami  modeled  aAer 
^ort  Hall,  but  is  of  a  smal'er  rompaas.  Portions  of  the  bot- 
toms around  it  tflbrd  grasi;ig;  but,  in  a  genenl  view,  tlte  sur- 
rounding country  ia  berreo. 

North  of  this  fort  is  eii  extensive  plain,  which  has  an  ex« 
iremely  anfertiie  sppeeru>wi  but.  I  am  informed,  that  during 
the  winter  end  spring  monrlis  it  affords  good  gritting.  At  this 
fort  (hev  have  a  quantity  of  tour  in  store,  brought  from  Orkoon 
Crrv,  for  which  they  demkvnded  twenty  dollars  per  cwl.,  in 
fiitsh;  t  few  of  our  nomprny  being  in  extreme  want,  were 
obliged  i«  purehase  at  this  exorbiuot  price  At  this  plsce  the 
road  crosses  the  river  t  the  ford  is  about  four  hundred  yards 
below  the  fort,  snd  atrikes  across  to  the  head  of  an  iaUnd.lhen 
bears  to  the  leA  to  the  southern  bsnk  t  the  water  is  quite  deep, 
but  aoi  rspid ;  it  swam  some  of  our  omalleet  work  eattle  :  the 
bottom  is  solid  and  smooth.  We  cut  pules,  snd  laid  them 
aeross  the  top  of  our  wagon-beds,  piling  our  loading  on  them } 
answering  a  twofold  porpoee-^- preventing  oor  loading  flrom 
damege,  as  also  by  its  weight  keeping  the  wagons  sie«dy  and 
guarding  them  againsi  floeting.  In  about  Uiree  hours  we 
effected  our  passage  in  safety,  but  few  of  the  goods  getting 
wM.  We  went  up  the  botiome  half  mile,  and  there  encamped  ( 
S 


'! 


I 


I'll 


•Irivinf  our  r.uU  on  «n  i-l.nd  h.nJ  by.  to  grnsf.  F""  "««• 
if  nbout  iwo  hun.lred  »n.l  highly  nulo.  Ix-low  l-ort  lUll.  fo  • 
lowing  lli«  wtKoii  ro«d  ;  but  by  .•r.mtmd  ihe  nvrr  «t  l-ortlUII. 
■nd  goina  .lown  on  th«  norili  •i.l«.  the  .J..i«.i.-o  woul.l  bo 
|«M«nf(i,  M  the  rivur  be.r.  otT  ■outh.  «nd  then  north  ;  am 
iudninK  from  ih«  .ppMriinee  of  the  oouniry.  I  think  s  roaU 
in-y  U  found.  eq.ul.  if  not  Imiutr  than  ihfl  on«  on  iha  wulh 
■ld«  J  and,  I  doobt  not.  ihn  irmxinn  wdl  be  found  betier. 

Stpinnbtr  3.     We  traveled  lil^en  mile«,  U>  Mtlheur.  or 
Mtlore,  M  it  i«  •omeumM  called :  here  la  a  gooil  ramp.      I  hia 
ia  a  elreain  of  about  tan  yarda  in  width,  having  lU  aource  in  a 
nnge  of  niouniaina  to  the  aoulh-wwrt.  and  purauing  ita  roean- 
deringa  through  a  aucceaaion  of  hilla.  aage  ami  aand  plains,  and 
occaalonally  a  fertdo  bottom,  until  it  nrrive.  «t  Hnake  river, 
into  which  i.  empiiea.     A  few  milea  be  ow   Fort  Boia.  Ita 
courae  from  ita  aource  ia  north  of  eaat     Along  lU  banka.  near 
to  where  the  road  croa«M  it,  are  a  number  of  hot  apringa ;  they 
are  of  the  aame  temperature  of  Ihoae  between  the  two  croaa- 
inga  of  Snake  river.     Here  we  met  Dr.  White,  a  aub-Indian 
agent,  accompanied  by  tliree  olhera.  on  their  way  from  Okoom 
to  the  HTATit.     At  Ihia  place  are  two  traila  ;  the  fork  la  in 
the  bottom  above  the  croaaing  of  the  creek,  and  lhor«  w  a  poa- 
•Ibility  of  eraigTanta  purauing  the  wrong  route.     I  do  not 
deem  it  amiaa  to  give  eorae  particulara  in  relation  to  thia  road. 
Mr.  Meek,  who  had  been  engaged  aa  oor  pilot,  but  had  pro- 
Tiouaiv  went  in  advance  of  the  companiea  who  had  employed 
him.  and  who  had  after  reaching  Fort  Hall,  fitted  op  a  party 
to  pilot  through  to  Oregon.  informwJ  the  emigranta  that  he 
could,  by  Uking  op  Ihia  alream  to  near  iu  aource,  and  then 
•triking  acroae  the  plaina.  eo  aa  to  interaect  the  old  road  near 
to  the  mouth  of  De.hutM  or  Falla  river,  aave  about  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  milea  travel;  also  that  he  was  perfecUv  familiar 
with  the  country  through  which  the  propoaed  route  lay,  a»  he 
had  traveled  it :  that  no  difficulty  or  danger  attended  ita  travel. 
He  auccecded  in  inducing  about  two  hundred  familiea  to  pnr- 
aue  ihia  route;  they  accordingly  directed  their  courae  to    he 
left,  up  thia  creek,  about  ten  daya  previoua  to  our  arrival  at  the 

^^Snttmber  4.  We  traveled  about  twenty  mdea ;  ten  milea 
brought  ua  to  a  aulphwr  apring.  and  ten  milea  more  to  Bircli 
creek,  where  we  encamped.  The  country  la  conaidorably 
rolling,  and  much  of  it  barren :  no  timber  found, 

September  5.     We  traveled  about  eight  maea ;  three  milea 


2     ■  ' 


VMI  ROCKY  MOUMTAlNt. 


Bl 


KTnie.  F.»rt  Boia 
low  Fort  lUll,  fol- 

rtvrr  at  Fort  Hall, 
liaianoe  wrtmlil  Im 
I  then  north  ;  and 
ry,  1  think  a  roatl 

on*  on  ih«  loulh 
ound  boiler. 
«,  ut  Malhnur.  or 
f{(M>«l  ramp.  Thta 
mn  it*  aourr«  in  a 
purauing  ita  mean- 
nd  aand  plaint,  and 
ea  at  Hnake  river, 
low  Fort  Boia,  lla 
ionK  ita  banka,  near 
if  hot  apring* ;  they 
reen  the  two  croea- 
iVhiM,  a  aub-Indian 
r  way  from  Orioon 
lila;  the  fork  ia  in 

and  ther«  is  a  po«* 
[  route.  I  do  not 
elation  to  thia  road. 

pilot,  but  had  pre- 
who  had  employed 
ill,  fitted  op  a  party 
t  emifranta  that  he 
ita  aourca,  and  then 
'.i  the  old  road  near 
lavfl  about  one  hun- 
as  perfectly  familiar 
jaed  route  lay,  a«  ha 
r  attended  ita  travel, 
dred  familiea  to  pnr- 

their  courae  to  the 
I  to  our  arrival  at  the 

nty  milea ;  ten  milea 
milea  more  to  Birch 
ntry  ia  coiiaidorably 
found. 
It  milea ;  three  milea 


bmught  ua  to  Hnake  river,  and  Ave  more  in  riurnt  river.  Tho 
mad  la  hilly  but  giKid  i  the  country  mounuiiioua.  Hera  it  i 
goo4l  camp. 

A'tpltmbtr  0.  We  mad*  about  Iwtir*  mil**.  Th«  road  ia 
up  llurnl  river,  and  the  moat  ditllrutt  road  we  have  enruun- 
tared  anice  we  atarted.  The  difTiculliea  aria*  from  the  f-eiiufnt 
rroMinfa  of  ihtt  creek,  which  i«  criNiked,  narrow  and  aiuny. 
We  were  often  compelled  to  follow  the  road,  in  ita  windinga 
for  aome  diatanoe,  uvur  high,  aidviong  and  atony  ridgea,  and 
frequently  through  tliicketa  of  bruah.  The  atreani  ia  about  ten 
or  twelv*  yarda  iu  width,  and  ia  generally  rapid.  Tb«  htlla 
ar*  high,  and  covered  with  graaa. 

Srpttm/jtr  7.  Thia  day  we  traveled  about  twelve  milea. 
The  road  exceeded  in  roughneaa  that  of  yeaterday.  Home- 
timea  it  purauad  ita  coura*  along  the  bottom  of  the  creek,  at 
oilier  timea  it  wound  iu  way  along  the  aidea  of  the  mountaina, 
ao  aidalong  aa  to  requir*  the  weight  of  two  or  more  men  on 
lite  upper  aide  of  the  wagona  to  preaerve  their  equilibrium. 
TIm  creek  and  \  id  are  ao  encloa«d  by  the  high  mounuina,  aa 
to  aflbrd  but  little  room  to  paaa  along,  renoering  it  in  aome 

iiUcea  aliitoat  impaaaabl*.  Many  of  tlie  mountaina  viewed 
roro  hare  aeem  almoet  perpendicular,  and  of  courae  preaent  a 
barren  aurface.  Tho  eye  ia  m >.  taionally  rtlieved  by  a  few 
acrubby  cedara  ;  but  along  the  rreok  ia  found  birch,  bitter  Cot- 
tonwood, alder,  iic.,  in  quantity,  and  aeverul  kinds  of  bruah 
and  briira,  ao  impenetrable  aa  to  preclude  ingreaa.  'I'lie  road 
purauaa  ila  oouraa  through  theae  thiokela,  the  axe  having  been 
employed  ;  but  it  ia  ao  very  narrow  jna  almoat  to  prevent  tra- 
vel A  little  digging,  and  the  uae  of  the  nxe,  united  with  the 
erection  of  biidgea,  would  make  this  a  very  good  roud.  At 
tirat  view  thia  road  appeared  to  us  impasaubie,  and  ao  difficult 
of  travel,  m  ulmoat  to  deter  ua  from  the  attempt;  hut  knowing 
that  thoae  who  had  preceded  ua  had  aurraounled  the  difHcultiea, 
encouraged  ua  to  peraavere.  It  requited  much  earefulneaa,  and 
the  exercise  of  skill  on  the  part  of  our  drivera  to  paaa  along 
and  avoid  the  dangera  of  the  way.  We  puraued  our  route 
without  any  loaa,  with  the  exception  of  that  attending  the 
breakage  of  two  wagon  tonguea,  done  in  croaaing-some  deep 
ravinaa.  We  alao  experienced  difficulty  in  finding  our  cattle, 
which  had  atrayed  away.  Five  milea  from  camp  the  road 
turna  up  a  spring  branch  to  the  right,  which  we  followed  two 
milea.  croasing  it  very  frequendy;  it  then  turna  up  tho  raouii 
taia  Iu  the  left,  lutil  it  atrikea  another  ravine.     We  followed 


mtmimm 


■mi*«nn> 


BiBlWWlB  w  ItfgMnWllH^jteWWWMiaMWfe* 


T 


.„  JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  OVER 

tip  this  for  one  mile,  where  water  miket  ita  .ppe«ranc«.  Iloni 
"■found  a  goo.l  camp.  The  road  then  take.  U)  tha  left  up  the 
Srand  then  down  to  a  dry  branch  r  here  i.  a  go«l.cmp| 
on"  mile  to  running  water.    ^I'hi-  portion  of  »he  road  «  «)l.d 

'"  ^/mfterT'^'Thie  day  we  traveled  about  fo«rt"«n  »"•?; 
Two  miles  brought  ua  to  the  creek  Rgam;  the  bottom  her.  w 
of  some  extent.  Sve  followed  thi.  »«'»"» '^Vtl"!^ 
one  mile;  the  road  then  led  up  the  right »«««»  branch,  cirajj- 
inff  .everal  small  branches,  taking  up  «  ravine  to  the  left  ow 
a  ridge,  unUl  it  reache.  the  fork  of  the  rivert  poraue.  tta  rouj* 
Sp  this  river  some  six  or  •r«™"««;  "«"'"« '*^S  ?" 
directs  ita  course  to  the  right,  through  »  narrow  rM»M  ow 
Sirmounuin.  then  atrlke.  bry  Branch;  w*  W^w^d  -p  thU 
branch  to  running  water,  ani  near  •?  »  tcrvbhy  P«»«»  JjJ 
we  encamped.    The  road  has  been  aolid  and  food.    rh«  hUia 
Mid  valleva  appear  well  covered  with  gnaa. 
'"XlX'i^.    Thi.  day  we  traveled  •b««t  .l««^  "'Ij; 
The  road  runa  up  the  branch  for  one  mile,  then  toir*"^' 
left  over  the  hill,  puraoing  .  ^"^  ^f  ^-^p^"";  I?' "T;   ' 
thirteen  mho.,  until  it  reacTie.  a  .lough  '"f^  •  "rvuS 
toms     Powder  river  i.  a  atream  of  aome  eight  or  ten  yard, 
rwidth.  hiving  it.  .ource  in  the  high  «»g.  of  njo«n^'«;|3; 
our  left,  which  mountain,  in  many  plic«  are  ooverwl  wiin 
;:;w   'An  abundance  of  pine  timber  i.  f?««d  ^^'V'J^ 
Bides  of  the«.  mou»Ui«.,  .ometime.  ^^^^"^ ^jj''^^'^ 
the  bottoms,  which  here  are  between  •'«  •^'^  "•3".  iTStT 
width.    The  .oil  U  fertUe  and  would  undoubtedly  ytaid  »«»ua- 

***To  our  right,  at  the  diatance  of  fift«.n  or  t»"«»y  "fj-J 
preaented  a  high  range  of  mountain.,  their  baM  ^o^^f  J'* 
Ls.,  their  .ide.  with  heavy  pine  timber.  -^^  *«"  "™"J 
fhTy  are  entirely  destitute  of  vegeUtion :  •«»• -^  J^«"  *J 
very  lofty,  their  peaks  prewnt  a  very  »«"f<»"»  •Plf""^!llt 
lembil  he  snow  moiintains.   ThU .hinlng. *«■»'"« •PTJ 

which  they  are  compo.ed.  being  a  kind  of  wh  to  day. 

The  valley  between  Powder  river  and  »»»«  wngj  »  f«y 
rolling,  portion,  of  it  coverwl  with  wdd  .^-     Wild  Jowl 

'''r^::£\T''T^.  day  we^tr^veledabout  t«i  mikjaj^onr 
couiT  wa.  down  the  valley  of  Powder  "r*''  «5J»  "^ 
J^ught  u.  to  the  crossing  of  the  .ame,  on«  mile  to  tlM  RUddlt 


:r 

appaaranee.  Hon 
H  to  (h«  leA  up  th« 
«  is  a  good  camp, 
or  the  road  ia  solid 

out  fourtnen  milw. 

the  bottom  here  is 
for  the  disUnce  of 
land  branch,  crosa- 
rine  to  the  leit  over 
rt  parsues  ita  route 
Ming  it  twice,  then 
narrow  r»»ine  over 
ve  followed  «p  this 
aerubby  PiMt  here 
ndgood.  The  hills 
I. 

bout  aixteea  miles, 
a,  then  turns  to  the 
ng  eoarse  for  some  • 
a  Powder  river  bol- 
1  eight  or  ten  yards 
ge  of  mountaina  on 
•  are  covered  with 

found  covering  the 
tding  for  down  into 
Md  aeven  miles  in 
oubiedly  yield  abun- 

or  twenty  miles,  is 
ir  baae  covered  with 
r.  At  their  summit 
:  some  of  tliese  aie 
roua  appearanoe,  ie> 
ing.daiiling  appear, 
•om  the  material  of 
r  white  day. 
d  thia  ?anae  is  very 
d  C--     wad  fowl 

about  ten  miles  ionr 
»r  river;  eight  miles 
ne  mile  to  the  middle 


THB  «OCKT  MOOWTAINa 


sa 


fork,  and  one  to  the  third  fork.     There  is  good  gfonnd  for  en- 
campments at  any  point  along  these  streams. 

At  our  camp  we  were  visited  by  an  Indian  chief  of  the  tribe 
CaMguas,*  accompanied  by  his  son.  He  was  of  a  friendly  dis- 
position ;  his  object  in  visiting  us  was  principally  to  bart^  for 
catde  i  he  had  in  his  poesesaion  thirty  or  more  horaes. 

Septtmber  1 1.  This  day  wo  travel<jd  about  twelve  miles  j 
for  the  first  five  or  six  miles,  tlie  road  was  quite  level  and  good, 
it  then  follows  a  ridge  dividing  Powder  river  and  Grand  Round ; 
tliia  portion  of  the  road  is  very  uneven  and  siony.  The  road 
leading  down  into  the  valley  of  Grand  Round,  is  circuitous, 
and  its  difficulty  of  travel  enhanced  by  its  roughness;  it  is 
about  one  and  a  hdf  miles  in  length,  to  where  it  reaches  the 
bottom.  Grand  Round  is  a  valley,  whose  average  width  does 
not  exeeed  twenty  miles,  and  is  about  thirty  milee  in  length ; 
a  stream  of  water  of  some  twenty  yards  in  width  passes  through 
this  valley,  receiving  considerable  addition  to  its  volume  from 
th«  many  rivulets  that  pour  down  their  waters  from  the  moun- 
taina, by  whieh  this  valley  is  enclosed.  The  bottoms  are  of 
rieh  friable  earth,  and  afford  grass  of  various  kinds,  among 
others  that  of  red  clover.  There  is  a  root  here  found  in  great 
abundanoe.  and  known  as  tlie  eomat,  which  is  held  in  high  re- 
pute by  the  Indians  for  some  medicinal  qualities  it  is  ihouffht  to 
possess ;  wild  flax  and  a  variety  of  other  plants  grow  inluxn- 
rianee,  lik»  to  thoae  I  have  observed  in  the  western  prairies. 
The  stream*  are  generally  lined  with  timber,  and  abound  in 
salmon  and  other  varietiee  of  fish.  Upon  the  sides  of  the 
mountains  and  extending  down  into  the  valley  are  found  beau- 
tiful grovee  of  yellow  pine  timber.  These  mountauis  are 
plaoe*  of  resort  for  bear,  deer,  and  elk. 

This  bottom  affordean  ek  client  situation  for  a  settlement, 
possessing  more  advantages  in  that  respect,  than  any  found 
Mooeour  departure  from  the  lower  Platte  river.  North  of  this 
and  at  tb*  distaneo  of  about  twenty  miles,  is  another  valley, 
similai  in  appearanoe  to  this,  but  of  greater  extent  The 
streams  bevtng  their  eonne  through  this  valley  empty  into 
Lewie  rive»,  wbich  is  eighty  or  ninety  mUes  to  Uic  north. 
Onr  camp  was  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  convenient  to  a  spring 
branch.  At  twilight  we  were  visited  by  four  or  five  of  the 
Calgues,  the  tribe  alluded  to  previously. 
An  inddent  quite  wordiy  ef  note,oc-iurred  at  this  place.  The 

•  rnaoaixMd  Kiwaw  or  Kioow. 


r 


5i 


JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  OVBB 


chief  (Aliquot  by  n«me)  who  had  Joined  ue  at  our  other  en- 
campmenl.  and  had  pursued  thia  day',  journey  '«  co^P^ny* 
had  pitched  hia  lent  some  ihiee  hundred  yards  to  the  rear  oi 
our  camp.     In  the  evening,  in  atrolling  about  the  camp,  I  cimo 
near  his  tent,  and  entered  with  the  inieniioo  of  employmg  hit 
■quaw  in  the  aoling  of  my  moccwina ;  while  ahe  waa  engajjed 
in  this  employment,  a  conversation  had  aprung  up  between  the 
old  chief  and  myself,  in  which  he  took  occaaion  to  ask  me  if  1 
were  a  chrialian.aa  also  whether  there  were  many  upon  the 
road ;  to  which  queaiiona  I  of  course  anawered  In  »»•  ■*»™: 
aUve,  Bupposing  that  he  merely  wished  to  know,  wnetner  i 
claaaed  myaelf  with  the  heathen  or  chriatiana.    On  my  ratum  to 
our  camp,  aome  one  of  our  party  propo«Hl  that  we  ihould 
while  away  an  hour  or  ao,  in  a  game  at  earde,  which  wa« 
readily  aeinled  to.    We  had  but  en|pged  in  our  minnaeinwit. 
when  the  old  chief  Aliquot  made  hia  appearance,  holding  » 

small  atick  in  hia  hand;  he  atood  ^f^^tJ^^TT^i. 
and  then  advanced  to  me.raiamghia  hand,  which  held  the  atocit 
in  the  act  of  chaaUaing  me,  and  gently  telunf«»f,  by^he  ami, 
said  "CapUin— Captain— no  good;  no  good.  J®"  ""y 
guesa  my  Mtonishment.  at  being  thus  lecturwl  by  m  "  wild  wd 
Stutor«l  aavage."  twenty  ave^undred  ■»"- /"»  *  "J*^^^^^ 
land.    I  inwardly  resolved  to  abandon  card  pUying  forcTer. 

September  12.  Thia  day  we  traveled  abont  aeven  mitoe ; 
the  road  runa  across  the  upper  end  of  Grand  round,  to  •  am^ 
spring  branch,  when  it  again  ascends  the  ™<«?!f»''?V  >»  ^f 
awing  branch  we  pitched  our  camp,  and  while  M«e.  were 
visit«S  by  great  numbera  of  Indiana,  induding  men,  equMW. 
Ind  papiS.  Theae  Indian,  have  decidedly  a  better  .p«»j 
ance  than  any  I  have  met;  tall  and  athleUc  in  fof"."'*  «^ 
great  sj-mmetVy  of  person;  they  are  generally  weU  ^•^ 
SLrvJ  pride  in  peUal  cleanlineM.  JW  b"«ght  »»^ 
corn,  potatoes,  peas,  pumpkina,  fiah,  &e.whieh  they  were 
anxiouTto  dispoee  of  for  clothe,  calieo.  nankme  and  other  ar- 

S  of  weariV*PP«'«»5  ^Y  "««»  ^*K^T^  *^jS^ 
b5i  moccasin.  fVylud  f^honm.  "tT*  *;j;^Si^ 
exchange  for  cow.  and  heifer. ;  they  would  8>f  y,««**XI 
horee  fer  a  cow,  esteeming  the  cow  ••  of  equd  ^^e-  J»"J 
remained  with  u.  throughout  the  day,  and  when  owmng  »• 
piLhed  returned  to  tl^r  lodje.  ^'ong^htrnwrtwo  n^e.^ 
Emt  I  noticed  a  few  of  the  ifei  Perce.  (Pwrced  N«w)J«Jo 
of  Indian,  among  them.  Both  of  theae  tnbe.  «•  uwUr  &•  • 
inaueoce  uid  oSntrol  of  two  Preabytorim  m»«oittne^  Dr. 


THE  HOCtY  MOUNTAINS. 


5S 


It  our  other  en< 
i«y  in  eompanjr, 
8  to  the  rear  of 
ihe  camp,  I  came 
»f  employing  hi» 
■he  was  enga|^ 
gap  between  the 
m  to  ask  me  if  I 

many  upon  the 
sd  in  the  affirm* 
mow,  whether  I 

On  my  return  to 
i  that  we  ahould 
sarde,  which  wa« 

onr  amnaement, 
iranoe,  holding  a 
d  for  a  moment, 
bieh  held  the  atick 
I  me  by  the  arm. 
Kid."  Yon  may 
id  by  a  **  wild  and 
■  from  a  civilised 
playing  forever, 
lont  aeven  milea ; 

round,  to  a  email 
nntaina.    At  thia 
while  here,  were 
ing  men,  aquawe, 
y  a  better  appear- 
s  in  form,  a!na  of 
illy  well  dad,  and 
ey  brought  wheat, 
which  they  were 
line  and  other  ar> 
Ifssaed  deer  akiaa 
ok  they  offered  i« 
gladly  ezohange  a 
}ual  valve.    They 
when  evening  ap> 
iver  two  mitea  dto- 
iereed  NoMa)  trU>e 
ibea  are  mder  th*. 
t  miaaiooarieat  Dr. 


Whitman  and  Mr.  Spalding,  who  have  resided  among  them  for 
Jhe  Sen  years  i  %hl  former  among  the  Caiiguas,  which  mhabit  ^ 
te  CO  ntrrbordering  on  W.ilawalla  river  and  it.  tr.butar.e.. 
h!  Blue  mountains  and  Grand  round:  the  latter  among  the 
Nez  PercT.  who  inl.abit  Uw  country  lying  along  Lew.s  r.ver 
and  tu^  t,  ibutaries,  from  the  eastern  base  of  the  IMue  mounla.n. 
to  the  Columbia  river.  These  minsionary  establishments  are  of 
a  I  ke  Character  to  those  farther  north  A.  shall  have  occasion 
to  speak  of  these  missionaries,  as  also  U.e  beneficial  results 
whiSh  have  flowed  from  their  residence  among  the  savages,  I 

"  Som;  of  ouTJaTbecoming  scant  of  provision.  sUrted  for 
Dr  Whitman's,  the  miseionary^sublishment  referred  to  above, 

S;i3irn  rejoin  us  «t  Umalillo  river,  my  old  inend  Ahquot 
^nerou^ly  profl-ered  hU«.rvice.  a.  pilot  for  them,  whtch  were 

'"SSI3.    Thia  day  we  traveled  about  seven  miles. 
FrorSnd  Round  the  roaS  ascends  the  Blue  "»ountams,  and 

foi  two  mile.  i.  quite  steep  and  Pr*"?**-"' L"  to  S>  at^hed 
extent,  as  to  require  six  yoke  of  oxen,  or  more,  to  be  atuwneu 
to  a  waj^n ;  fr!m  the  aummit  of  theae  mountain.  »  presented 
a  roUinTcountry  for  some  four  mile.,  alternately  prairie  and 
^vS  yeUow  pine  timber.    In  the  prairie  the  grM.  «  qmU» 
SJ  but  among  the  grove,  of  timber  it  ia  green  anS  flounshiDg. 
The  rLT.«ry. tony;  at  the  end  of  four  m  lea  «» »fk"  do^J 
the  mountain  to  Grand  Round  river,  one  "'»•'«.. '*'•♦"«';" 
Sen  crowe..    Here  i.  another  bottom  covered  wiUi  grass  and 
buTh«?tIhere  we  pitched  our  encampment.    It  is  a  remark- 
able  dre^mrtance  Uiat  when  individual,  are  engaged  in  con- 
JemS  Uieir^oice.  can  be  heard  distincUy  at  a  quarter  of  a 
mXt^nce ;  the  di«Jharge  of  a  gun  resemble,  that  of  a  can- 
Sn.  and  i.  echoed  from  hiU  to  hill,  the  reverberauon.  conUnu- 

"^^Il^'lSf '^X  we  traveled  about  ten  mile..  The 
«J^i  ie  mountain  for  one  and  a  half  or  two  mde.. 
Am  wound  along  the  ridge  crowing  many  deep  ravines,  and 
SSuTi^t.  roSS^over  hij craggy  rock. ;  •""•"XkCS 
^eoune  over  an  open  plain,  at  othera  through  thick  groyea 
of  rimber,  winding  inong  fallen  tree,  and  logs,  by  which  the 
Id  wS'«cu.I!Sr«l.  ^-he  «enery  i.  grand  and  beauufuU 
aS  cannot  be  aurpawed ;  the  country  to  a  great  dlatwwse  i. 

oottu^  allhoogh  many  amatt  prainee  are  dotted  over  ita  aut 


••- 


JOUIUf  AL  OF  TRAVHiB  OVBR 


fice  The  vallByr.  are  beautiful  and  the  aoil  presento  a  very 
rich  appearance.  We  encamped  in  an  opening,  on  ihe  souib 
side  of  a  range  of  mountain,  running  to  Uie  nor-h,  and  found 
water  in  plenty  in  the  bottom  of  the  ravme,  on  ur  left,  about 
Tne  fourth  of  a  mile  from  the  ro«l.  The  Umber  growing  m 
thU  region  ia  principally  yellow  pme,  apnice,  baUtm  fii,  and 
hemlock:  amonii  the  butfhea  I  noUMd  laurel. 

Sm6rrf.  Thi.  day  we  traveled  about  nine  mile., 
over^rmain  ridge  of  the  §lue  Mountain..  It  i.  moetly  a 
Lbered  countrvlirough  which  we  pa..ed  J  ♦h.^^^ilJ^e 
lighlful,  re.embfing  in  grandeur  »t»»  P'*«»»*«i»»  S  to  Ui! 
travel.  We  h*d  a  fine  view  of  the  Cawade  ^omUmuto  U^e 
west.  Mount  Hood,  the  loftieat  of  the.e,  waa  pUm  to  the 
Tiew  It  wM  MB^one  hundred  and  fifty  milM  dietant,  and 
Sg  covere?  with  .now,  appeared  a.  a  whi^  cloud  rumuf 
Zy%  tho«i  .urrounding  it.  To  the  "O'^  ?f  Mount  Hooi 
and  north  of  the  Columbia,  U  aecn  Mount  Saint  Helen.  We 
halted  for  the  night  at  Lee',  encampment. 

Sntembtr  Ifc    We  traveled  about  .ixteen  mile,  thw  day, 
whiclTbrought  ua  to  UmaUUo  river.     Here  i.  an  Indian  town, 
The  rSiK  of  the  princij«l  chiefii  of  the  Cjifu-.    At  Ouj 
tidM  Ihey  were  moetty  in  the  mountam.  hunUM.    The  ro«l 
ha. been  good;  the  firat  twelve  mile*  led  ua  through  a  «eU 
timUred  ooontry,  the  laat  four  mUea  over  prame  j  the  country 
Kd^  .pp««nce;  the  bank,  of  the  .tre««.  «re  lined  witk 
•oMoiiwiod;Um  of  gilead. choke eherr e.  and  tvtry^TMj 
SZL.  'TheIndifB.l«v.«foweultiv.todfieW.^ongA« 
•tream;  they  raiae  wheat,  eom.  potato*.,  pea*  and  a  vanetv 
ofvegL,!*..    AfUir  the  planting  of  crop.,  the  l^ur  of  tend, 
inff  devolves  upon  th«  aquawa,  or  la  done  by  .Uvea,  of  which 
Siy  haw  a  number,  beSg  eaptivea  taken  in  Uieir  •«Pfd'^on« 
SSi.*other  tribe..  Th^y  brought  u.  the  different  producta  of 
S^rm.  for  traffic.    A.  *ev  expw-cd  gnjj  eagjrneja  to 
obtain  dothee,  and  we  had  a  lilie  deeire  tof^*"  V8f^"2 
a  briak  traffic  waa  continued  untU  dark.    On  yw^'day  mom- 
ins  when  about  ready  to  .tart,  we  diwovered  th»t  eight  or  ten 
o?WiorkcataewL«i.«ng.  Four  of  our  n«B,b«r.  »y«lf 
included,  remained  to  hunt  them  up.    In  ow  aeareh  we  ran*, 
bled  over  the  mountain,  for  aeveral  mile.,  and  at  njh*  """J 
them  about  three  mile,  from  camp;  ^«  *•«  *J*'r>f *  ^ 
and  arrived  at  Lee'.  encampm«rtjn.t  after  ^!^   Th»  mom- 
ing  an  OS.  a  mule  and  a  horae  weremiMjii..    Th»e^ JJ 
nuiaid  to  bwt  for  thwn.    Wi  imn)m4  *•  V^sm  wd 


THB  HOCICY  MOUNTAirra. 


n 


1  pretenta  a  verj* 
ingt  on  the  south 
north,  and  found 
on  ur  left,  about 
mber  growing  in 
1,  baUam  fii,  and 

tbout  nine  miles, 
It  is  mostly  a 
the  scenery  is  de- 
ed on  yesterday's 
IVlouQtaina  to  the 
was  plaia  to  the 
naiUa  distant,  and 


rhite  cloud  risir 
,  of  Mount  Hood, 
'mint  Helen.    We 


en  milea  this  day, 
8  an  Indian  town, 
Ca^as.    At  this 
ntinf.    The  road 
us  through  a  well 
airiei  the  oountrv 
una  are  lined  with 
and  every  variety 
fld  fields  along  tbia 
MS  and  a  ▼arietv 
die  labour  of  tena« 
y  slavcst  of  which 
I  their  expeditions 
fferent  products  of 
great  eagemeaa  to 
obtain  TegeUblea, 
a  yesterday  mom» 
id  that  eight  or  tea 
urnombMr.myaelf 
ir  aeareh  wo  rant* 
ind  at  night  found 
n  fddlowed  the  road 
dark.   Thia  morn* 
■.    Throe  of  ua  ro. 
i  tiio  jprairiM  and 


tbirkets  for  miles  around,  but  were  un8uccess(\il.     We  then 
pursued  the  road  to  Umatillo,  which  we  reached  at  night. 

September  17.  At  eight  o'clock  this  morning,  tlie  men  who 
had  left  us  at  Grand  Round  for  Dr.  Whitman's  suUon,  rejoined 
us,  accompanied  by  the  doctor  and  his  lady.  They  came  in  a 
two  horse  wagon,  bringing  with  them  a  plentiful  supply  of 
flour,  meal  and  potatoes.  After  our  party  had  taken  some  re- 
freshmenU  the  march  wae  resumed ;  our  visiters  accompany 
ing  us  to  our  camp  four  milea  down  the  river.  Our  present 
location  affords  but  litde  grating.  ,    ,      .     .        v 

Tho  doctor  and  lady  remained  with  us  during  the  day;  ha 
took  occasion  to  inform  us  of  the  many  incidento  that  marked 
his  ten  yeara'  sojourn  in  this  wilderness  region,  of  a  highly  in- 
teresting character.   Among  other  things,  he  relatwi  that  during 
his  residence  in  this  country,  he  had  been  reduoed  to  aueh  ne- 
ceaaity  for  want  of  food,  aa  to  be  compelled  to  alay  hia  horae ; 
stating  that  within  that  period,  no  less  than  thiriytwo  horses 
had  iMen  served  up  at  his  table.     ' '  ":  ws  that  the  sod  has 
never  been  cnliivatwl  until  wiU..-  •  few  years  back  t  but  at 
this  time,  so  much  attention  is  given  to  tho  oulturo  of  the  aoU, 
which  yidda  abundanUy,  that  the  privations  of  limine,  or  even 
acaraity,  will  probably  not  again  recur.    Tho  oondiUon  of  the 
savagea  has  been  greatly  ameliorated  and  their  improvonent  is 
chiefly  attributable  to  tho  missionary  reaidouts.    They  have  a 
good  stock  of  cattU,  hogs,  sheep,  Ac.,  and  raiae  an  wnount  of 
grain  not  only  auffioient  to  supply  their  own  wanta,  but  aOorda 
a  aurphia.    These  ttiboe  differ  m  their  appearance  and  oualom* 
from  any  wo  have  met.    They  reoogniae  tho  change -h-h 
has  taken  plaee,  and  are  not  ignorant  that  it  has  been  effected 
by  the  efforts  and  Ubor  of  the  missionaries    On  tho  other 
hand,  they  acknowledge  the  beneats  derived  by  yielding  to  their 
inatructtons.    They  have  embraced  the  ChrisUan  religion,  and 
•pp«ir  devoat  in  their  eapouaal  of  ChriaUan  dootrinee.    Tho 
entire  time  of  the  misslonariee  ia  devoted  to  tho  eause  for  which 
they  have  foraaken  their  flriends  and  kindred  t  they  have  left 
the  comforts  of  home,  and  those  placeo  which  have  been  en- 
deared  by  oariy  aoaooiaUons,  for  tho  wdd  wildernosa  and  the 
habitoaoc  of  the  savage,  prompted  by  those  prmeiplM  of  oha- 
rity  and  boaavolonce  wbU  tho  ChrUuan  roligkm  alwaya  in. 
adeaws.    Their  privationa  and  triala  hava  bean  great,  but  they 
have  borne  them  with  humility  and  meekness,  and  the  flniiU  of 
their  dovodon  are  now  manifoatt  and  if  any  olasa  of  pooplo 
dasorvo  ««U  of  dieir  oouatry,  or  ara  anUtlad  to  tha  thaaka  or 


mm  JOURNAL  or  TKAVKL8  OVER 

a  chriatisn  community,  it  i»  the  miisiontrie..  Having  no 
family  of  their  own.  they  generously  take  fan.iliei  of  orphan 
children,  rai»e  anil  educate  them  in  a  manner  that  la  worthy 
of  all  commendation.  , 

Srpttmbtr  18.  Thia  morning,  after  breakfast,  o«r  worthy 
KuesU  left  XM  and  we  took  up  our  line  of  march,  «"v^-n8  °o*» 
the  Umalill..  valley  for  some  twelve  miles,  crossmg  the  tlrtam 
twice.  The  road  then  takes  up  the  bluff  to  the  rjfht,  over  % 
high  grassy  plain.  Our  encampment  was  pitched  on  the  bluff  on 
the  left  of  li.e  road.  The  water  required  at  camp,  was  packed 
about  one  and  a  half  miles,  being  procured  at  the  base  of  the 
bluffs,  up  which  we  had  to  climb.  The  country  :s  very  roll- 
ing, covered  with  dry  grass ;  it  is  tnosUy  praine.  From  hi. 
po^int  two  snowy  peaka  appear  m  view,  as  alao  the  great  vJley 
of  the  Columbia;  in  truth  it  may  be  said  that  our  present  lo- 
cation  is  in  that  valloy,  although  it  is  generally  termed  th« 

""*!i^Jr"*19.    Thi.  day  we  Iravrted  "bou*.  »•"  »""••■ 

Eight  miles  brought  us  to  the  river ;  we  followed  the  banks  of 

the  river  for  two  miles,  and  encamped?  good  gr"wnK.w  found. 

The  stream  as  usual  is  lined  with  timber,  but  with  this  excep- 

tion,  it  is  a  roUing  prairie  as  far  as  can  be  seen,  extending  to 

the  north  and  south,  and  bounded  on  the  east  and  west  by 

he  Blue  and  Cascade  mountains.  "WhUst  at  this  camp,  we 

were  visited  by  the  Wallawalla  Indians;  they  reside  along  the 

lower  part  of  the  Wallawalla,  the  low  bottoms  of  the  Um*. 

tillo  and  the  Columbia,  from  the  mouth  of  I**^is  mer  for 

•    one  hundred  miles  south.    Thev  furnished  us  with  pota^ 

and  venisoni'  In  their  personal  appeamnce  ^ey  *»•»««* 

Inferior  to  the  CaSguas,  and  want  the  deanhness  that  charac- 

terizea  that  tribe.//  ,.    l     .  a(v^„  „:im 

Saittmber  20.    This  day  we  traveled  about  fi^n  mUee. 

For  the  first  eight  miles  the  soil  was  remarkablynch  m 

appearance,  an  admixture  of  sand  and  loam,  and  covered  wiA 

obod  grass;  the  stream  is  lined  with  timber,  m  common  with 

Smy  of  those  that  we  have  passed ;  the  last  seven  miles  WM 

S  ind  heavy  traveling.    The  Columbia  ^^^^V^^ 

itself  on  our  right,  at  the  distance  of  fonr  milee.    Th«  nver 

i??n  vtowfor  raSes  along  this  road.    The  pifekly  P"'  » J«nd 

in  »bundance.    It  was  our  intention  to  have  reached  the 

Columbia  before  encamping,  but  from  the  *'»««'»  *^;«"';tl' 

wen  compelled  to  encamp  on  the  ewidy  plam,  deprived  or 

water,  wood  and  grass. 


THB  ROCKY  MOUNTAINi. 


60 


68.     Having  no 

iiiliet  of  orphwi 

that  is  worthy 

ifaat,  our  worthy 
I,  trav'ing  down 
aiing  the  itream 
the  right,  over  a 
id  on  the  bluff  on 
amp,  waa  packed 
It  the  baae  of  the 
ntry  :s  very  roll- 
lirie.     From  thia 

0  the  great  v  Jley 
it  our  preaent  lo- 
srally  termed  the 

about  ten  miiea. 
wed  the  banka  of 

grazing  ia  found, 
t  with  thia  except 
eeen,  extending  to 
;sat  and  weat  by 
at  this  camp,  we 
y  reeide  along  the 
>ms  of  the  tjma- 
r  Lewis  river  for 

ua  with  potatoes 
M  they  are  much 
linesa  thatcharae- 

Mtnt  fifteen  miles, 
emarkably  rich  in 
1,  and  covered  with 
',  in  common  with 
at  seven  miles  was 
bia  river  presents 
miles.  Tne  river 
rickly  pear  is  foond 
have  reached  the 

1  difficult  traveling, 
plain,  deprived  of 


Septemhtr2\.    This  mominff  at  dsy-light  we  atartwl  for 
tne  cfolumbia,  diatanco  three  and  a  half  milea.     The  nver  at 
thia  place  ia  from  a  half  to  three-fourlha  of  a  mile  m  widlb. 
It  ia  a  bcaulifnl  stream ;  ita  waters  »re  clear  and  course  gently 
over  a  pebbly  bottom.     Along  the  Columbia,  ia  a  strip  of  bar- 
ren  country  of  twelve  milea  in  width;  a  little  dry  grata  in 
bunches,  prickly  pear  and  grease  wood,  dot  its  surface.     With 
this  exception,  ita  appearance  was  wild  and  solitary  to  a  Rreat 
degree;  but  atorile  aa  it  is  in  appearance,  the  view  is  relieved 
by  the  majesty  of  the  river  that  flowa  by  it.     Immediately 
along  the  bank  of  the  Columbia  ia  a  narrow  bottom,  cov- 
ered  with  green  grass,  cncklebur,  wild  aunflower,  pig  weed, 
and  several  other  kinds  of  weeda,  all  of  which  were  in  full 
bloom.    There  waa  aomething  inspiriting  and  animating  m 
beholding  thia.    A  feeling  of  pleaaure  would  animate  our 
breaaU  akin  to  that  filling  the  breaat  of  the  manner,  when  after 
yeara  of  absence,  the  ahorea  or  bia  native  land  appear  to 
view.     We  could  scarce  penraade  ouraelvea  but  that  our  jour- 
ney  had  arrived  at  its  termination.     We  were  fall  of  hope, 
and  aa  it  waa  understood  that  we  had  but  one  more  difficult 
part  of  the  road  to  surm  lunt,  we  moved  forward  with  re- 
doubled energy;  our  horses  and  cattle  were  much  jaded,  but 
we  believed  that  they  could  be  got  through,  or  at  leut  the 
greater  part  of  them. 

The  Indiana  were  constantly  paying  ua  viaits,  furnishing  us 
with  vegetables,  which,  by  the  by,  were  quite  welcome ;  but 
they  would  in  return  demand  wearing  apparol,  until  by  traffic, 
we  were  left  with  but  one  suit.  We  were  compelled  to  keep  a 
aharp  look  out  over  our  kitchen  furniture,  as  during  these  viaita 
it  was  liable  to  diminiah  m  quantity  by  forming  an  attachment 
towarda  these  children  of  Uie  forest,  and  following  them  off. 
Many  of  theae  a avages  were  neariy  naked ;  they  differ  greatly 
from  tlie  Calignas,  being  much  inferior;  th«y  are  a  greasy, 
filthy,  dirty  set  of  misereanU  as  ever  might  be  meS. 

Stptmiitr  22.  This  day  we  remained  in  camp,  engaged 
in  tra^  with  the  Indians.  Some  of  our  party  were  in  want 
of  hofsea,  and  took  thia  occasion  to  supply  themselves. 

Stpttmbn  28.  This  day  we  traveled  about  twenty  mues. 
Tha  first  eight  miles  the  road  ia  heavy  traveling;  the  remain- 
ing portion  however  is  much  better,  with  the  exception  of  the 
laat  five  miles,  which  proved  to  be  quite  rocky.  There  is  an 
occasional  green  spot  to  be  found,  but  the  whole  distance  we 
havii  tiavded  since  we  first  stnick  the  river  cannot  be  regarded 


^.  JOURNAL  or  TIIAVKL*  OVW 

■■  mow  thin  •  b«rr«n  Mndy  pUln.  In  oor  roou  ihto  diy  wi 
pu.ed  •ev.r.l  Indiin  vilhges;  ihey  tre  but  temporary  eitab- 
liihmenu,  as  their  migrtiory  diipcilion  will  noi  juiufy  mow 

permtnent  •truclore*.  .   .  ^  .    •  . ».iu- 

AVplffnfter  a4.  ThUi  diy  we  Inwled  bat  iixt^n  miiw. 
After  t  mirch  of  Mten  milee,  we  erriwd  tt  ■  enisll  "«•*•• 
good  iiuiation  for  eneemping  j  nine  milee  "»«"  •""VKJ!' "' *° 
!)ry  Breneh,  from  whence  we  proceeded  down  the  bluff  to  the 
ri»«  I  .  |T~t  portion  of  the  roMl  tm^eled  wm  ewidy  «id 

**°!sj/«n6«-  U.  Thi.  dey  we  trereled  about  fourteeii  mile.. 
The  road  wm  quite  hilly  ;  M^meUme.  it  followed  the  benk  of 
the  river,  .t  other.  P«r.ued  ito  eoerM  .long  the  high  bluff; 
The  river  ia  eooAned  to  i  very  ntrrow  ehtnnel ;  country  very 
berren,  «nd  the  bluff,  of  greet  heighu 

Seplember  U.  Thi.  day  we  traveled  about  three  milee. 
The  roed  awjend.  the  bluff;  i.  very  difficult  in  ewsant  from  lie 
.teepue...  requiring  twioe  the  foree  to  impel  the  *•?<«>•»"• 
•Uv  emDk>\-ed;  eftw  effecUng  the  anient,  the  emuoeity  of  the 
roil  aV^onJthe  rockelJ  »h.  bluff  on  John  Da/,  river , 
here  we  had  another  obalvrle  toeurmount,  that  of  g«»w? /""n 
a  hill  Tery  precipium.  in  it.  de«*nt,  but  we  nccompluibed  U 
wiAouttoror  injury  to  our  team..  ThU  atream  comee 
tumbling  through  kwyane  and  rolling  over  ^^'J^r'^^^l 
rate  It  i.  *ery  difficult  to  cro...  on  account  of  the  atone 
fonning  the  bed  of  the  ereek »  it.  width,  howevw.  doe.  not 
SSedteny-rd..    The  greiing  i.  indlff.re■^  the  gra«  being 

**^«*2L  «7.'    Thi.  morning  we  di»over«l  that  Mver^ 

of  oJr  trsil  rope.  h«l  bee.  ?«?"•  .^'i'^^^.r^..  J^ 
found  uaUl  viry  late;  notwilhatandiog  Uje  «»«>*y  »»•«•  •«»• 
SoSdwtr.v3ed«»».tw«.ty«ile..  The  ro«l  for  thj^«t 
three  mUe.  i.  np  hUl ;  it  hm  porroe.  ita  cour^  over  MF^J. 
Sg  pWa Vfif^  or  «.telw.  mik*.  wh«  H  H-n  A»r*na. 
"ZVs  to  the  benk  oj  .he  OohimW..  wh«h  w.  fijfowrf 
down  for  one  mil*  wd  there  encamped.  The  Uufi.  aro  very 
hkfhwMl  rocky.  We  differed  great  ineonvenien«.fK«Ui« 
wSt^fXi  there  kinon.  to"be  foniid t°».»^l5?""S^ 

rcSleLted  a  few  dry  •««'»  '^  ^^J^'^JL'tnfiiSS 
enabled  n.  to  parttaUy  eook  oor  food.     The  road  we  traiveM 

'^"4SX'5».  ^  day  we  »"^ «  *««^':i- "^ 
TiramUM  broufbtaa  to  the  eraaainfc  of  DeabniM cr  FUla 


ittt*  ihi«  day  w« 
Icmporary  nUh- 
not  juaiify  moro 

t  lixtMii  milM. 
K  mikll  crevk,  • 
ir«  brought  ua  to 
a  ih«  bluff  to  th« 
i  wM  Mody  Bud 

It  foartcra  milM. 
iw«d  the  bsnk  of 
I  the  high  bluff. 
•I  i  eouviry  r«ry 

lout  Ihrae  nilM. 
n  Mcent  from  iu 
th«  wuoM  am* 
I  nnuositT  of  th« 
ohn  Day  ■  rif  or  i 
at  of  goin^  down 
I  Mcompliabed  it 
ia  atream  eomM 
«eka  at  •  violent 
vni  of  th«  atone 
lowevw,  doee  not 
It,  the  graaa  being 

rered  that  aevenl 
raee  eould  not  be 
delay  thua  oce^ 
B  road  for  the  firat 
inw  over  a  graaey, 
litifaindeaceode 
liieh  we  followed 
ho  Uaib  are  verjr 
renieDee  fraoa  tM 
»ng  the  Odttmbia; 
and  weeds,  wbieil 
e  road  we  traveled 

mut  twelve  nilee. 
DeahniBS  or  Fatti 


THB  lOCKY  MOUNTAmt.  f| 

river ;  a  atream  having  ita  source  tn  a  marshy  plain  bordaring 
on  the  Great  Basin,  and  receivea  numeroua  Inbuiaries  li<iadiug 
m  the  Caacade  mountains,  the  easb'rn  base  of  which  it  fnllowa 
and  pours  iu  watera  into  the  Columbia.  The  mouth  of  De 
Bhutes  river  is  near  fifteen  miles  east  of  the  Dalles  or  eaaiern 
bam!  of  these  mounUins ;  the  river  ia  about  one  hundred  yards 
wide,  anil  the  current  very  rapid;  the  stream  is  enclosed  by 
lofty  cliffs  of  baaaltio  rook.  Four  hundred  yards  from  the 
Columbia  ia  a  rapid  or  caacade.  Within  the  distance  of  thirty 
yards  iu  descent  is  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet.  The  current 
of  this  stream  waa  ao  rapid  and  violent,  and  withal  of  audi 
depth,  a*  to  require  ua  to  ferry  it.  Some  of  the  companies 
behind  ua,  howaver,  drove  over  at  iU  month  by  oroaaing  on  a 
bar.  Preparatory  to  ferrying,  we  unloaded  our  wagons,  and 
taking  them  apart,  put  them  atward  some  Indian  eanoes,  which 
were  in  waiting,  and  crossed  in  safety;  after  puttii^f  our 
wagona  in  order  of  travel,  and  preparing  to  start,  we  diacov* 
ered  ourselves  minus  a  quantity  of  powder  and  shot,  two  shirU 
and  two  pairs  of  pantaloons,  whieh  the  Indians  had  appropri* 
ated  to  their  own  use,  doubdeas  to  pay  the  trouble  of  ferriage. 

In  the  morning  a  quarrel  eneued  among  tlie  Indiene  respeet^ 
ing  their  eanoes,  cloatng  in  a  ms/sc,  and  such  a  fight  I  never 
before  witnessed ;  stones  and  missilee  of  every  description 
diat  were  at  hand  were  uaed  with  freedom.  We  did  not  inter- 
fere with  them,  and  when  dtey  were  tired  of  fighting  the 
effeeU  of  die  balde  were  viaible  in  numerous  instances,  such 
as  bloody  nosea  and  bsttered,  bleedinc  heads. 

We  ascended  the  bluff  and  travdTed  along  the  brink  for 
■everal  miles,  then  crossed  over  the  ridg3  to  a  small  creek ; 
after  crossing  it,  we  took  up  a  dry  run  for  one  or  two  miles, 
thenoe  over  a  ridge  to  a  running  braneh,  and  there  encamped. 
The  country  Uirough  which  we  traveled  this  dsy  waa  ezhrerae* 
ly  rough ;  all  prairie,  and  eovered  widi  crass,  but  very  dry. 

Sqttai^r  39.  This  dav  we  traveled  about  five  milee, 
whidi  bnmght  ua  to  the  DalU$,  or  Med;odtst  Missions.  Here 
was  die  end  of  our  road,  as  no  wagons  had  ever  gone  below 
this  fdaee.  We  found  some  sixty  famUies  in  waiting  for  a 
passwgo  down  the  river;  and  as  there  were  but  two  small 
boaki  ranning  to  the  Casoade  falls,  our  prospect  for  a  speedy 
passage  was  not  overly  flattering. 

StptenUter  SO.  This  day  we  intended  to  make  arrange* 
ments  for  our  passage  down  die  river,  but  we  found  upon 
inquiry,  dut  die  two  boata  apokeu  of  were  engaged  for  at  leut 


es 


JOUBNAU  or  T»ATtUI  OVBtt 


tan  d>y»,  •nd  »h»«  »•»«•'  chargM  winw  «»».rbiUnl,  and  *oul.l 
proUbly  «h«orb  whM  liiUe  we  hwl  l«r»  \»  pay  our  w.y  to 
Or^iran  City.  We  then  tlelermmed  «i>  make  a  Uriporer  Um 
mounuina.  and  made  inquiriea  r«a()eclini  lu  prwjucb.lity  of 
•otne  Indiana,  but  could  learn  nolhinR  dntiiuie,  eiceplinf  Uial 
ffraii.  timber  and  water  would  be  foi»n.l  m  abundanc*  {  w« 
Hnully  aacerUined  that  a  Mr.  Btrlow  and  Mr.  Nighton  h«l, 
with  the  -ame  objwt.  penetrated  aome  twenty  or  »*«n«y-n»« 
miiea  into  the  interior,  and  found  it  impracticable.  Nihlon 
had  returned,  b».l  Bariow  wae  yet  in  die  nMwmiaina,  endf»»or. 
ing  to  fore  a  paNag«;  ihey  had  been  abeeut  aix  daya.  with 
■even  wattma  in  their  train,  intending  to  go  ••  far  ai  they 
could,  and  if  found  to  be  impracticabU,  to  reUim  and  go  down 

'*We  «ice8*ded  in  p«nm«din«  fiftuen  faroiliee  to  accompaoy 
aa  in  our  trip  o»er  the  roountaina,  and  immediately  «'•*'•?";; 
parationa  for  our  march.  On  the  ifternoon  of  the  brrt  of 
October,  ouf  preparaiiona  were  announced  aa  complete,  and 
we  took  up  our  line  of  manjh ;  nthera  in  the  mean  time  had 
joined  ua,  and  ah.»  dd  we  faU  in  widi  Barlow,  our  tram  would 
eonaiat  of  aome  thirty  wagona. 

But  before  preceeKling  with  a  des.  nption  of  ihie  route,  l 
wiU  eol«  into  a  deUil  oi  the  difficuUiea  undergone  by  the 
company  of  two  hundred  wagona,  which  had  a«pa«ted  from 
U9  at  Malheur  cieek,  under  the  pilotage  of  Mr.  Meek. 

Ilwill  be  remembered  that  8.  h.  Meek  had  inducwl  about 
two  hundred  faniiliea,  with  their  wagona  and  atock,  to  turn  off 
•t  Malheur,  with  the  view  of  aaving  thereby  aomo  one  hjin 
are*!  and  fifty  milea  li«»cl  ;  and  they  had  .tailed  about  the  hjat 
of  Auguat.      They  foUowed  up  Malheur  creek,  keeping  up  the 
•outhem  branch,  and  purauing  a  aouthern  courae.     For  a  long 
time  they  found  a  very  good  road,  plenty  of  |taae,  fuel  and 
water;  they  left  theae  watera,  and  directed  their  courae  o»er  a 
tough  mountwnou.  country,  almoat  entirely  berefi  oJ  v^geta- 
Uon,  were  for  many  day.  d«iUtute  of  w"**'.  -"f  ^ul^Tt 
were  ao  fortunale  a.  to  procure  Ihta  indi.pena.ble  e'ejwnU  i 
tTM  found  alagnant  in  pool.,  unfit  e«D  <"' »»^«  "''^^  **;  J*, 
but  neceMily  compelled  them  to  the  uae  of  it.     The  re.«  I 
waa,  that  it  made  many  of  tl.  m  aick ;  many  of  the  eatUe  diwl, 
and  the  majority  were  unfit  far  labor,     A  d«ea.e  termed  camp- 
feyer,  broke  out  among  the  diffarent  campsjne.,  of 
many  became  the  yielima. 


I  camp- 

2 


rim  iwciY  irot'ifTAiMa 


S3 


biUnt,  and  «oul<l 
I  p«y  our  w«y  to 
tka  t  (rip  ovnr  iIm 
a  prMiicability  of 
tia,  escepiinf  Uitt 
D  kbundancc}  w« 
Mr.  Nighton  htd, 
my  or  twenty-ft*« 
;ti(«bl«.  Nifhlun 
i(inuiiii«(  en*le»¥or* 
■lit  aiz  (la)  •«  with 
p  M  far  •■  ihay 
•tuna  and  go  down 

tlies  to  accompany 
eJiatoly  nii»v'e  pro- 
n  of  the  firat  of 
I  aa  eomplota,  and 
Ita  mean  tima  hail 
w,  our  train  would 

m  of  thia  route,  I 
und«rg»ne  by  th« 
lad  ettparatad  fruin 
Mr.  Meek. 
had  induced  about 
d  atciok,  to  uim  off 
iby  Homo  one  huii 
larted  about  the  laai 
aek,  keeping  up  the 
»urae.     For  a  lone 
of  |Taaa,  fuel  and 
1  their  courae  over  a 
\y  bereft  ol  vegeia- 
ler,  and  when  tliejjr 
jienaable  element,  it 
iir  th«  uae  of  eatllo  i 
of  it.    The  ratalt 
ly  of  the  cattle  died* 
taeaae  termed  camp- 
jnip;Jii«B,  of  which 


They  at  lenfth  arrived  nt  a  marehy  lake,  which  th<<y  aU 
tovmpiei!  to  crom,  but  found  it  inipracupablei  and  m  the  niarth 
apurired  to  b«'ar  noulh.  an.l  many  of  them  were  nearly  mit  of 
proviiiona.  k\.pv  came  u>  a  determination  U»  purtue  a  north^'m 
courte.  and  *Knkt,  the  Columbia.  Meek,  however,  wiahe.l  t4 
|n  aouth  of  the  lake,  but  they  would  not  follow  him.  They 
turnrtl  iiorlh,  Hnd  after  a  few  daya'  travel  arrived  at  Dealiuloa 
or  Falla  river.  'ITiey  traveled  up  and  down  thia  river,  endea- 
voriHK  to  rtnd  a  paaaagc,  Init  aa  it  ran  through  rookjr  kmyotu, 
it  wae  im|>oMiblv  tu  croaa. 

Their  auffinuR*  were  daily  l ii-reaiinir,  their  atoek  of  pro- 
Tiaioiia  w«a  rapiilly  wanlintf  away,  ibeir  csllle  wf  beoommg 
•ihauatod,  and  many  atUche<l  to  the  company  w«re  laboring 
nnder  aevere  altacka  of  aickneaa ;— at  length  Meek  informed 
them  that  they  were  not  more  than  two  daya'  ride  from  the 
Dallea.  'IVn  men  aUrted  on  horaebark  for  the  Methodiat 
■Uliona,  wiUt  the  view  of  procuring  provUiona ;  they  took  with 
them  a  acanty  supply  of  prov  ni«me.  intended  for  the  two  daya 
journey.  After  riding  faithfully  for  ten  dayt,  they  at  laat 
arrived  at  the  Dallea.  On  their  way  they  encountered  an  In- 
dian, who  furnished  them  with  a  fiah  and  a  rabbit  j  thia  with 
th«  provtaion  they  had  atarted  with,  waa  their  only  food  for 
the  ten  daya'  travel.  Ui»on  their  arrival  Ht  the  Dall«"«  they 
were  ao  exhaualed  in  atreunth,  and  the  rijpdity  of  their  limba, 
from  riding,  wae  ao  great,  aa  to  render  them  unable  to  dismount 
without  laaiatance.  They  reached  the  Dallea  the  day  pr*- 
▼ioue  to  our  arrival. 

At  this  place  they  met  an  old  mountuncer.  unidly  aim 
Black  Harria,  who  volunUered  hie  aervirea  as  a  pilot.  He 
in  company  with  aeveral  oihera,  marted  in  search  of  the  lost 
company,  whom  tliey  found  reduced  to  great  extremitiea ; 
their  provisions  nearly  exhaustoti,  and  the  company  weakened 
bv  exertion,  and  doapairing  of  ever  re«cliing  Uie  seltlemeniB. 
'fhey  succeeded  in  finding  a  place  where  their  cattle  could  be 
driven  down  to  the  river,  and  mnde  u>  swim  acrosaj  after 
croaaing,  the  Muff  had  to  be  aaceiuled.  Great  difficulty  aroee 
in  the  attempt  to  eflfcct  a  paa-age  with  tbe  wagons.  Fhe 
means  finally  reeorted  to  for  the  tranaportation  of  the  fann  los 
and  wagona  were  novel  in  the  extrcmo.  A  large  rope  waa 
awung  across  the  atream  and  attached  to  the  rocka  on  either 
aide  ;  a  light  waaon  bed  was  sutpendwl  irom  this  rope  with 
pulleys,  to  which  ropes  were  attached;  this  bed  served  lo 
eonvoy  the  famiUM  and  loading  in  aafcty  aerou }  the  wagons 


I! 


2 


wtra  ihi»n  •lf»wn  o»tr  the  lied  <>f  tl»«  ri*»r  hy  rop*«.  T!n 
paiMia  of  tlii»  riv«r  iKVupio'l  •<»n««  iwo  wrok*.  I  lio  <luUiii« 
mu  a.irty-rtv«  ntili!!  to  lli«  Dtllt.-.  »l  whirl,  plar*  llicy  .rnveU 
•boul  llw  laih,  or  Utii  of  Ocwilwr.  Some  twenty  of  lh«i.- 
niiinlior  had  p«ri«hcd  by  dintw,  pn'»ioim  Uj  tlieir  ■nival  at 
tlie  Dallw,  and  k  l.ko  numbtr  wer«  loil,  -fior  their  iirri»iil.  «fom 
Ihn  tmna  ciiuee.  'I'hie  ••om^»«ny  ha*  »w«-o  kimwn  by  the  nim« 
of  lh«  Si.  J.-eph  company  j  but  Miern  wrre  per«on»  froin  every 
■UM  of  tli«  Union  wiUiin  ile  nnke.  IlliiuM*  and  Miawuri, 
however,  had  the  larMit  repruMnUlion.  , , 

Tht  lUtcmenitf  I  have  |i*en  are  aa  torr«»  a«  I  «"otdd  arrive 
at,  from  eoiiauluiion  with  many  of  th«  inenil>cr».  Thia  expe- 
dition waa  unforiunata  in  th«  eitremo.  jAIlhoiigh  coniiionceU 
umkr  favorable  auapicea,  ita  Urminalion  aaiumed  a  gloomy 

charaolar.  ,   ,     ,.    .      t    n 

It  haa  b«en  aUted  that  aoine  membera  of  the  lludaon  a  Hay 
Company  ware  inalnimeiital  in  ihia  expedition,  but  auch  la 
not  the  fact.     Whilal  I  waa  at  Fort  Hall,  I  converacd  witii 
CapUin  (Jrant  reapecting  the  practicability  of  line  aame  route, 
and  waa  adviaml  of  the  fnct.  that  l!ie  leama  would  be  unable  to 
get  through.     The  individual  in  charge  at  Fort  Boia  alao  ad- 
viaed  me  to  th«  aame  purport.     The  ceiuure  reata,  in  the 
origin  of  lh«  expedition,  upon  Meek  j  but  I  have  not  the  leaat 
dtHibt  but  he  Buppoaed  they  could  get  through  «'»•«[••)[•  J 
have  underatood  that  a  few  of  the  membera  oonUolled  Meek, 
and  cauaed  hiin  to  depart  fioin  hia  original  plan.     It  *»•"'• 
deaign  to  have  coiidiicic<l  the  party  to  the  HillanuUe  f  alley, 
inatead  of  going  Ui  the  D^llea ;  and  the  direilion  he  ftrat  tra- 
veled induced  tiiia  belief.    Meek  ia  yet  of  the  opinion  that  had 
he  gone  round  the  marahy  lake  to  the  «ouih,  lie  would  have 
•trook  the  eaiUement  on  the  Willamette,  within  llie  lime  re- 
quired 10  travel  to  the  Dalles.     Had  lie  diatovered  ihia  route, 
it  would  have  proved  a  great  aaving  in  the  distance.     I  do  not 
oueation  but  that  lliere  may  be  a  route  found  to  the  aouth  of 
thU,  opening  into  the  valley  of  the  Willamette.     But  I  muat 
•gain  return  to  the  aubjeet  of  my  Iravela. 

October  I.  At  four  o'clock,  P.M.,  every  thing  wna  ready 
for  our  departure,  and  we  puraued  our  way  over  the  rtdge,  m 
a  aouthern  couree.  The  c  mntry  waa  very  rolling,  and  prin- 
eipally  prairie.  We  found  excellent  grazing.  Our  camp  waa 
pitched  on  a  aroall  apriug  branch. 

October  2.  Thia  day  we  maile  about  ten  milca,  croaaing 
several  ravine*,  many  of  which  had  running  water  in  them ; 


T»E  aOC«Y  MOUNTAINa 


by  rnp*i.  '''■n 
k«.  Tlia  ituUiiiit 
piapi  Ihcy  arrivtd 
V  twenty  of  thaif 
M  llieir  anival  ■! 
their  iifriful,  Irom 
inwn  by  the  nam* 
lemona  from  everv 
itiia  and  Miasouri, 

!t  3*  I  rniild  arrtfa 
Irtsra,  Thia  aip»- 
tioiigh  coniaix/iwad 
aauiuad  a  gloomy 

the  Hudaon'a  Bay 
iiiioii,  but  auch  ia 

I  convarac'd  witli 
of  thia  Pome  route, 
would  be  unable  to 
I'orl  Boia  alao  ad- 
ixure  reata,  in  the 

liafe  not  the  least 
oufh  in  aafely.  I 
I  controlled  Meek, 
1  plim.  It  waa  his 
nUlanulte  I'aUey, 
ittction  he  first  Ira* 
he  opinion  that  had 
jih,  lie  would  have 
•ithin  tlie  time  ro- 
M.overed  this  route, 
distance.  I  do  not 
lul  U)  the  aouth  of 
mctte.     Rut  I  roust 

ry  thing  wai  ready 
ty  over  the  ridge,  in 
•y  tolling,  and  prin- 
ng.     Our  camp  was 

ten  milea,  crosaing 
iug  watrr  in  them,} 


the  I'ftontry,  Uks  that  of  yraterday's  travel,  proved  to  be  very 
rolling;  our  camp  w;-<  aituaied  on  a '•nallaprmgbraiieh.havmg 
its  source  in  th«  niounuiin. 

fklober  8.  This  innrumK  I  atnrtrcl  on  horaeback  in  advance 
of  ttie  company,  arcompaiiied  by  one  of  ila  membera.  Our 
courae  led  ua  louth  ovrr  a  rolling,  grasay  plain  i  portions  of 
tlie  mad  were  very  ttony.  Aftrr  a  trav«l  of  fourloon  milna, 
we  arrived  at  a  long  and  airep  declivity,  which  w*  d«a(>«ii(l«<l, 
and  afler  craaamg  the  i-re<<k  at  its  baic,  aacendml  ii  bluff;  in 
the  bottom  are  aeen  aeveral  amall  enrloaurea,  whrre  th«  Itximna 
have  cultivated  the  soil;  a  few  Indian  huta  nMy  be  seen  along 
thia  atrmim. 

Meek'a  company  croaard  Deshuts'a  river  near  the  mouth  of 
thia  atrearo,  which  ia  live  nnlca  diitant.  Alter  aarending,  ws 
turned  to  the  right,  liirecting  our  courae  over  a  It3v«'l  griuay 

Etiuin  for  aome  Ave  milea  or  rnnre,  when  we  croaaed  a  running 
•ranch ;  five  milea  brought  ua  to  Stony  Branch,  and  to  acat- 
tering  yellow  pine  timber.  Here  we  found  Barlow'a  company 
of  leven  wagons.  Barlow  waa  »baent  at  the  time,  having  with 
three  otheia  atarted  iiiUi  the  mouiiuiin  two  daya  before.  We 
remained  with  them  all  niKht. 

Oelobtr  4.  Thia  morning  myself  and  companion,  with  a 
scanty  supply  of  provisions  fur  a  two  days'  journey,  started 
on  a  westerly  course  into  the  muuntaina.  Prom  the  open 
ground  we  could  aoe  Mount  Hood.  Our  object  wua  to  go 
aouth  and  neut  to  thid  peak.  For  five  milea  tJie  country  was 
alternately  prairie  and  yellow  pine :  we  then  aacended  »  ridge, 
which  aacendrd  gradually  to  the  west.  Thia  we  followed  for 
ten  miles.  After  the  crossing  of  a  little  brushy  bottom,  we 
took  over  another  ridge  for  four  or  five  miles,  very  heavily 
timbered  and  dennnly  covered  with  undergrowth.  We  de- 
scended the  ridge  for  a  short  distance,  ana  traveled  a  level 
bench  for  four  miles  ;  this  is  covered  with  very  large  and  tall 
fir  timber;  we  then  deacersded  the  mountain,  traveling  west- 
ward for  one  and  a  half  miles,  we  tlien  csme  to  a  small  branch, 
which  we  named  Rock  creek.  After  crossing  the  creek,  we 
ascended  a  hill  for  one  fourth  of  a  mile,  then  bore  to  the  left 
around  the  hill,  through  a  dense  forest  of  spruce  pine.  AAer 
five  mUes  travel  from  Rock  creek  wo  came  to  a  marshy  cedar 
swamp ;  we  turned  to  the  left,  and  there  found  a  suitable  place 
(ai  crossing.  Here  ia  a  atream  of  from  five  to  six  yards  in 
widtii,  when  confined  to  one  channel ;  but  in  nianv  places  it 
ftns  over  a  bottom  of  two  rods  in  width,  strewed  with  old  moM 
6 


I 


I 


...u. 


'1 

I 


!■ 


gj  JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  OVER 

covered  logs  and  roota.  The  w.ter  WM  «<W™«>y  ej*"  "J 
cold.  FoSr  mile,  brought ...  to  the  top  of  the  blufr  of  .deep 
gulf;  we  turned  our  coune  northward  for  »wn.f"";.r„  ' 
darkneee  overtook  u»,  forcing  ue  to  encamp.  A  htUe  f«"  Y^M 
diacernible  on  the  mounUin  aide.,  whlcli  afforded  our  jaded 

'Tr^rri^'a^early  hour  thi.  momln,  I  V^^ 
down  the  mountain  to  the  atream  at  lU  baae.    1  ft»"nj  th*  Jj" 
.cent  very  abrupt  and  difficult;  the  diatance  waaone  half  mile. 
ZZ^T  wM?unninji  veryrapid;  it  had  the  aame  appe7.ce 
18  the  water  of  Uie  A/?mwn,  beinjj  filled  with  white  aand.    I 
followed  thi.  stream  up  for  .ome  diaunce,  -nj  "«;'^'"~  ,^^^^^ 
it.  .ource  wa.  in  Mount  Hood;  and  fr«m .»»»•  f PP«.*""*' ""^ 
the  bank.,  it  aeem.  that  it.  water,  .well  during  he  night,  oyer- 
flowing  it;  bank.,  and  subaide  again  by  day ;  it  •nipUe.  into 
Derhut,'.  river,  having  a  ..ndy  bottom  of  f'"»;]*»  "J*  .^^ 
half  a  mile  wide,  covered  with  acrubby  pinea,  and  aomeumee 
a  .lough  of  alder  buahe..  with  a  litUe  gra..  and  w*e..    jWe 
then  ascended  the  mountain,  and  aa  our  atock  of  provUiona 
WM  barely  .ufficient  to  l-t  u.  through  the  day,  .t  w«  found 
necessary  to  return  to  Sanip.    We  reUaoed  our  •»«P«to  where 
we  had  struck  the  bluff,  and  followi^  down  a  -ho'  d**^";* 

where  we  found  the  mountain  of  -"fl^^'^^ArflSow^S 
to  admit  of  the  paMage  of  team. ;  we  could  ^^f^'^'^^f^* 
bottom  toward.  Mount  Itood,  and  a.  we  ■"PP«««*Ji»»  ^^ 
peak  waathe  dividing  ridge,  we  had  reawnaWe  g»«nd.  to 
Eope  that  we  could  get  through.  We  then  took  out  ttail  m  the 
dirWon  of  the  camp ;  and  late  in  the  evening,  Ured  and  hun- 
arf,  we  arrived  at  Rock  creek,  where  we  found  our  company 
Ittwimped.    Barlow  had  not  yet  returned,  but  we  waolved  to 

'^'"octofter  6.'  We  remained  in  camp.  Aa  the  sn*}H  wai 
poor  in  the  timber,  and  our  looae  oatUe  much  trouble  toua,  we 
determined  to  wnd  a  party  with  tliem  to  the  aelUement  rhe 
Indian,  had  informed  u.  that  Uiere  wa.  «  trail  to  the  north, 
which  ran  over  Mooi.t  HockI,  and  thence  to  Oregon  city. 
Thie  party  y^  to  proceed  up  one  of  the  ridge,  until  they  atruek 
thia  t!aU,  and  then  foUow  it  to  the  aetUement  Two  familie. 
decided  npon  g«i.«  with  thia  p«rty,  and  m  I  «F*«^  %ha;« 
no  further  u«,  for  my  hor«i,  I  sent  l.im  *"*  »^"^,  „;»'^ 
were  to  procure  proviaiona  and  aMiatanoe,  and  meet  na  ontho 
way.  We  had  forwarded,  by  a  company  of  e*»»»J^"]2,'!??iI!Il 
the  DaUe.»  which  at-rted  for  Uie  .etUement  on  the  firM  or  Um 


'.I  WIIKI  U  ■  <  ,1  ""    tJWW>i< 


L, 


THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINa 


67 


:tr«inely  cletr  ind 

he  bluff  of  a  deep 

two  miles,  when 

A  Utde  gtwu  wu 

iffurded  our  jaded 

ninr,  I  proceeded 
I.    I  found  the  do- 
waa  one  half  mile. 
te  same  appearance 
ilh  while  sand.    I 
md  ascertained  that 
the  appearance  of 
ingthe  night,  ovcn 
ly;  it  empties  into 
f'  from  two  rods  to 
nes,  and  sometimes 
•  and  rushes.    We 
itock  of  provisions 
i  day,  it  was  found 
I  our  steps  to  where 
vn  a  short  distance 
tly  gradual  descent 
1  ther  follow  up  the 
supposed  that  this 
tsonable  grounds  to 
took  our  trail  in  the 
ring,  tired  and  hun- 
found  our  company 
I,  but  we  resolved  to 

Iks  the  graiing  was 
ich  trouble  to  us,  wo 
lie  settlement.  The 
«  trail  to  the  norihi 
lee  to  Oregon  city, 
iges  until  they  struck 
lent  Two  families 
ks  I  ezpeeted  to  have 
I  wiUi  them.  They 
,  and  meet  ns  on  the 
of  eattle^rtvon  firom 
lat  on  the  first  of  Um 


month,  a  request  that  they  would  send  us  provisions  and  as- 
sistance i  but  as  we  knew  nothing  of  their  whereabouts,  we 
had  little  hope  of  being  benefited  by  them.  The  day  wus 
spent  in  making  the  necessary  arrangements  for  the  cattle- 
drivers,  and  for  working  the  road.  In  the  afternoon,  Barlow 
and  his  party  returned.  They  had  taken  nearly  tlie  some 
route  that  we  had;  they  had  followed  up  the  bluff  of  this 
branch  of  the  De  Shutes,  to  within  iwelve  or  fifteen  miles  of 
Mount  Hood,  where  they  supposed  they  had  seen  Willamette 
valley.  They  had  then  taken  the  Indian  trail  spoken  of,  and 
followed  it  to  one  of  th-*  ridges  leading  d  n  to  the  river  De 
Shutes;  this  they  followed,  and  came  out  near  our  camp.  We 
now  jointly  adopted  measures  for  the  prosecution  of  the  work 
before  us. 

October  7.  Early  in  the  morning,  the  party  desiniated  to 
drive  our  loose  cattle  made  their  arrangements,  and  left  us. 
And  as  we  supposed  our  stock  of  provisions  was  insufficient 
to  supply  us  until  these  men  returned,  we  dispatched  a  few 
men  to  the  Dalles  for  a  beef  and  some  wheat;  after  which,  we 
divided  our  company  so  as  that  a  portion  were  to  remain  and 
take  charge  of  the  camp.  A  sufficient  number  were  to  pack 
provisions,  and  the  remainder  were  to  be  engaged  in  opening 
the  road.  All  being  ready,  each  one  entered  upon  the  duty 
assigned  him  with  an  alacrity  and  wUlingness  that  showed  a 
full  determination  to  prosecute  it  to  completion,  if  possible. 
On  the  evening  of  the  10th,  we  had  opened  a  road  to  the  tcp  of 
the  mountain,  which  we  were  to  descend  to  the  branch  of  the 
De  Shutes.  The  side  of  the  mountain  was  covered  with  a 
species  of  laurel  bush,  and  so  tliick,  that  it  was  almost  impos- 
sible to  pass  Uiroiigh  it,  and  as  it  was  very  dry  we  set  it  on 
fire.  We  passed  down  and  encamped  on  the  creek,  and  dur- 
ing the  night  the  fire  had  nearly  cleared  the  road  on  the  side 
of  the  mountain. 

On  the  morning  of  October  11th,  a  consultation  was  had, 
when  it  was  determined  that  Mr.  Barlow,  Mr.  Lock,  and  my- 
self, should  go  in  advance,  and  ascertain  whether  we  could 
find  a  passage  over  th(«  main  dividing  ridge.  In  the  mean 
time,  the  remainder  of  the  party  were  to  open  the  road  up  Ae 
creek  bottom  as  far  i^  they  could,  or  until  our  return.  We 
took  some  provision  in  our  pockets,  an  axe,  and  one  rifle,  and 
sUrted.  We  followed  up  tliis  branch  about  fifteen  miles, 
when  we  reached  a  creek,  coming  in  from  the  left.  We  fol- 
lowed up  this  for  a  short  distance,  and  then  straek  aeross  to 


mmmmm 


gg  JOURNAL  OF  TBAVBL8  OVER 

the  main  fork;  •nd  in  doing  so,  wc  came  into  a  cedar  swamp, 
to  covered  with  lieavy  limber  and  bruuh  that  il  was  almoai 
imposaible  to  get  llirougli  iu  We  were  at  least  one  hour  in 
traveling  half  a  mile.  We  atnick  the  opening  along  the  other 
fork,  traveled  up  this  about  eight  miles,  and  struck  the  Indmii 
rail  spoken  of  before,  near  where  it  comes  down  the  mountain. 
The  last  eight  miles  of  our  course  had  been  nearly  north— -■ 
high  mounuin  putting  down  between  the  branch  and  mam 
fork.  Where  we  struck  llio  trail,  it  turned  west  into  a  wide, 
sandy  and  stony  plain,  of  several  miles  in  width,  extending  up 
to  A/ount  Hood,  about  seven  or  eight  miles  distant,  and  in 
plain  view.  , 

I  had  never  before  looked  upon  a  sight  so  nobly  grand. 
We  had  previously  seen  only  the  top  of  it,  but  now  we  had  a 
view  of  the  whole  mounUin.  No  pen  can  give  an  adequate 
description  of  U)is  scene.  The  bottom  which  we  were  as- 
cending,  had  a  rise  of  about  three  feet  to  the  rod.  A  perfect 
mass  of  rock  and  gravel  had  been  washed  down  from  the 
mountain.  In  one  part  of  the  bottom  was  standing  a  grove  of 
dead  trees,  the  top  of  which  could  be  seen ;  from  appearance, 
the  surface  had  been  filled  up  seventy-five  or  eighty  feet  about 
them.  The  water  came  tumbling  down,  through  a  little  chan- 
nel, in  torrento.  Near  the  upper  end  of  the  bottom,  the  moun- 
tains upon  either  side  narrowed  in  until  they  left  a  deep  chasm 
or  gulf,  where  it  emerged  from  the  rocky  cliffs  above. 

Stretching  away  to  the  south,  was  a  range  of  monntam, 
which  from  the  bottom  appeared  to  be  connected  with  the 
mountain  on  our  left.  It  appeared  to  be  covered  with  timber 
far  up {  then  a  space  of  over  two  miles  covered  with  grass; 
then  a  space  of  more  than  a  mile  destitute  of  vegetation ;  theu 
commenced  the  snow,  and  continued  rising  until  the  eye  was 
pained  in  looking  to  the  top.  To  our  right  was  a  high  nwe^ 
which  connected  with  Mount  Hood,  covered  with  timber. 
The  timber  near  the  snow  was  dead. 

We  followed  this  trail  for  five  or  six  miles,  when  it  woanfl 
up  a  grassy  tiiige  to  the  lelW-followed  it  up  to  where  it  eon- 
neeted  with  the  main  ridge ;  this  we  followed  np  for  a  mUe, 
when  the  grass  disappeared,  and  we  came  to  a  ridge  entaraly 
destitute  of  vegetation.  It  appeared  to  be  sand  and  gravel,  or 
rather,  decomposed  material  from  sandstone  crumbled  to  pecea. 
Before  reaching  this  barren  ridge,  we  met  a  party  of  those 
who  had  started  with  the  loose  cattle,  hunting  for  eome  whiiA 
bad  ttrayeil  off.    They  informed  vm  that  they  had  lost  sbont 


-im-f 


lo  a  cectar  swamp, 
lat  it  was  almoti 

least  one  hour  in 
ng  along  the  other 

struck  the  Indian 
iwn  the  mountain. 
n  nearly  north— -a 

branch  and  main 

west  into  a  wide, 
'idth,  extending  up 
es  distant,  and  in 

t  so  nobljr  grand, 
but  now  we  had  a 
give  an  adequate 
irhich  we  were  as- 
lie  rod.     A  perfect 
ed  down  fmni  the 
standing  a  grove  of 
;  from  appearance. 
If  eighty  feet  about 
trough  a  little  chan- 
\  bottom,  the  moun- 
ly  left  a  deep  chasm 
lifis  above, 
range  of  monntain, 
M>nnecled  with  the 
lovered  with  timber 
overed  with  grass ; 
af  vegetation ;  theu 
J  until  the  eye  was 
\X  was  a  high  ranges 
vered  with  timber. 

lies,  when  it  wound 
up  to  where  it  eon* 
owed  up  for  a  mile, 
e  to  a  ridge  entirely 
sand  and  gravel,  or 
scrambled  to piecee. 
et  a  party  of  those 
ting  for  some  whfeh 
they  had  lost  abool 


THE  ROCKY  MOUNl  AINB 


m 


one-third  of  their  cattle,  and  were  then  encamped  on  the  west 
side  of  Mount  Hood.  We  determined  to  lodge  with  them, 
snd  took  the  trail  over  the  mountain.  In  the  mean  time,  the 
cattle-drovers  had  found  a  few  head,  and  traveled  with  us  to 

their  camp.  .    , .    u  ■ . 

Sooa  after  ascending  and  winding  round  this  barren  riJJge, 
we  crossed  a  ravine,  one  or  two  rods  in  width,  upon  the  snow, 
which  terminated  a  short  distance  below  the  trail,  and  extended 
np  to  the  top  of  Mount  Homl.  We  then  went  around  the 
mountain  for  about  two  miles,  crossing  several  strips  of  snow, 
until  we  came  to  a  deep  kanyon  or  gulf,  cut  out  by  the  wash 
from  the  mountain  above  us.  A  precipitate  cliff  of  rooks,  at 
the  head,  pitsvented  a  passage  around  it.  The  hills  were  of 
the  same  material  as  that  we  had  been  traveling  over,  and  were 

very  steep.  ...  m. 

I  judged  the  ravine  to  be  three  thousand  feet  deep.  The 
manner  of  descending  is  to  turn  directly  to  the  right,  go  xig- 
zag  for  about  one  hundred  yards,  then  turn  short  round,  and 
go  zigzag  until  you  come  under  the  place  where  you  started 
from ;  then  to  the  right,  and  so  on,  until  you  reach  the  base. 
In  the  bottom  is  a  rapid  stream,  filled  with  sand.  After  cross- 
ing, we  ascended  in  the  same  manner,  went  round  the  point 
of  a  ridge,  where  we  struck  another  ravine;  the  sides  of  this 
were  covered  with  grass  and  whortleberry  bushes.  In  this 
ravine  we  found  the  camp  of  our  friends.  We  reached  them 
about  dark ;  the  wind  blew  a  gale,  and  it  was  quite  cold. 

Octobtr  12.  After  taking  some  refreshment,  we  ascended 
the  mounUin,  intending  to  head  the  deep  ravine,  in  order  to 
aaoerUin  whether  there  was  any  gap  in  the  mountain  aouth  of 
as,  which  would  admit  of  a  pass.  From  this  peak,  we  over- 
looked the  whole  of  the  mountains.  We  followed  up  the 
Bassy  ridge  for  one  mile  and  a  half,  when  it  became  barren. 
y  two  (nends  began  to  lag  behind,  and  show  signs  of  fatigue; 
they  finally  8topped,and  contended  that  we  could  not  get  round 
the  head  of  the  ravine,  and  that  it  was  useless  to  attempt  an 
aaeent.  fiat  I  was  cf  a  different  opinion,  and  wished  to  goon. 
They  eonsented,  and  followed  for  half  a  mile,  when  thny  sat 
down,  and  requested  me  to  go  up  to  the  ledge,  and,  if  we  could 
effect  a  passage  up  and  get  round  it,  to  give  them  a  signal  I 
did  so,  and  foood  that  by  climbing  up  a  cliff  of  snow  and  ice, 
for  about  forty  feet,  but  not  so  steep  but  that  by  gettinp;  upon 
one  cliff,  and  eotting  holes  to  stand  in  and  hold  on  by,  it  could 
be  ascended.    I  gave  tho  signal,  and  they  came  op.    In  tht 


MHiWUM 


wmm 


t 


w 


JOURNAL  or  TRAVSIJS  OVER 


mean  time.  I  had  cut  and  camd  my  way  up  the  clUT,  and 
"hen  up  to  the  top  wa.  forced  to  admit  that  it  wm  aomething 
^f  an  unCrUkingf  buta.  I  h«l  arrived  "ff  *\,^;  »»P;  .^^ 
cliff,  I  doubted  not  but  they  could  accompliah  the  •«»•<•«• 
and  aa  my  moccMina  were  worn  out,  and  the  aole.  of  "X  f**} 
Mooaed  to  the  anow,  I  waa  diapoeed  to  be  traveling,  and  lo  left 
Zm  toleVup  the  beat  way'uie/ could.     After  proceedmg 
about  one  mil.  upon  the  snow,  continual  y  wmdmg  «p  J  beptn 
to  deanair  o'  aeeing  my  companiona.     I  came  to  where  u  lew 
ietaS  piece.  ofVk  had  fallen  from  ^h'  ledge  a*.o^^^^^^^ 
rolled  down  upon  the  ice  and  ano-v.  (for  the  who  e  masa  i» 
more  like  ice  ttan  anow;)  I  clambered  upon  one  of  theae,  and 
wautd  half  an  hour.     I  tU  rolled  atone,  down  th«  m.«nUin 
for  half  an  hour;  but  a.  I  could  Me  nothing  of  "J  V^o  fr  «»d.. 
I  beean  to  .u.pect  that  they  had  gone  back,  and  croaaed  in  the 
raT  I  then  went  round  to  the  .outn^sMt  «de,  contmuBny 
a.cendlng,  and  taking  an  obaervation  of  the  country  -outh,  "d 
wa.  fully  of  '.he  opinion  that  we  could  find  a  paaaage  through.^ 
The  water,  of  thi.  deep  ravine,  and  of  numerou.  r»vme.  to 
the  north-weat,  a.  well  ^  the  .outh-weat,  form  the  head,  of 
Sfg  Sandy  and  Quickaand  rirsr..  which  empty  nto  the  C^u,™; 
5a.  about  twenty-five  or  thirty  mile,  beluw  the  Caacade  Fri^.. 
I  could  aee  down  thia  .tream  aome  tweWe  or  fifteen  mile., 
where  the  view  wa.  ob.tructed  by  a  high  ^K*  ^""1?  7»^J 
fVom  the  north-weat  .ide,  conneciinjr  by  a  low  gap  ^'^  'Ofno 
of  the  apur.  from  thi.  peak.    All  Oieae  .tream.  wereTunmng 
through  '"Oh  deep  cha.m.,that  itwa.  i™PO«««'le  to  paa- them 
with  team..    To  the  .outh,  were  two  range,  of  mounUin., 
TonneSTng  by  a  low  «.p  with  thi.  peak,  and  ^ndinj  round 
until  they  terminated  near  B15  Sandy.     I  obwtved  that  a 
Sm,  heading  near  the  b..e  oT  thia  peak  and  running  south- 

.  The  opinion  he^tofo«  enteHwned,  «»«**»  P*V«^J;'J^^»'TS 
to  iti  rommit,  I  fonnd  to  be  erroneoM.  I.  bowew.  ^^  •^«  ^^ 
hiJw  DMk;  bat  went  luiBcienily  near  to  pnwe  iu  pwctJeabUi^.  I  judge 
ti^^^T^v^^^t^  poiufiria*  the  ■nowreawn.  the  ymt 

Zakutor^of  rodu.  eppwenrty  «^e«l  thou-nd  feM  high;  wdm 
S^  JXU Xc  em  »i- «  pwdpitately  tothej.mmrt.diatap«,y 
^nlblmpwcticMe.  lA^k theioathem«de.flW.1heeMtort««Mrf. 
T^^ik  •tnp*  obeemMe  from  a  dirtwce,  are  oooanoned  tar  bhekwh  rocfc, 
J^t^MtaTu^^^i^  of  the  «.ow  lying  upon  it ,  '«>•«»*  •»»«• 
SeTSS^!^  «Hi  -em  to  be  of  -^^^'^-JS^  ^  ^ 
iofi*.  but  any  «/  ))»e  anow  perfta  upon  Ihle  »Bg»  cm »»  •f*W? "  '^ 

Mcuflit. 


Jim.*. 


THE  HOOKY  MOUNTAINS. 


71 


up  the  cliff,  and 
it  WM  itomething 
r  at  the  top  of  the 
ih  the  lame  taak, 
I  tolaa  of  my  feet 
veling,  and  lo  leil 
After  proceeding 
nding  up«  1  began 
le  to  where  £  few 
9  ledge  above  and 
he  whole  masa  i« 
one  of  these,' and 
»wn  the  m-untain 
)f  my  two  friends, 
md  crossed  in  the 
,  side,  continually 
ountry  south,  and 
passage  through.* 
imerous  ravines  (o 
arm  the  heads  of 
ity  -nto  the  Colum- 
Ihe  Cascade  Falls. 
i  or  fifteen  miles, 
[nge  coming  rouiid 
ow  gap  wiih  some 
tams  were  Tunning 
ssible  to  pass  them 
ges  of  mountains, 
nd  winding  round 
I  observed  that  a 
and  running  south- 

I  eonld  not  be  aioended 
ir,  did  not  arrive  at  the 
praetkabUiljr.  I  judge 
■MwreimiiM  the  yeax 
'  <rf  the  ta^inee,  ere  pw» 
ind  feet  high;  and  in 
iummit,l]tatapaMag» 
gbtdetheewfaet  aMent. 
noned  Iw  bteekiih  rock, 
nit  'JPhe upper itimta 
imwiiaa.  Then  ie  no 
eaajM  afCSftW  to  the 


east  for  sevetai  miles,  there  appeared  to  turn  !o  the  west.  This 
I  judged  to  be  the  head  waters  of  Claokamia,  which  empties 
into  the  Willamette,  near  Oregon  city  5  but  the  view  waa  hid 
by  a  high  range  of  mountains  putting  down  in  that  itireotion. 
A  low  gap  seemed  to  conr.eet  this  stream,  or  some  other,  head- 
ing in  this  high  range,  with  the  low  bottoms  immediately  under 
tlie  base  of  this  peak.  I  waa  of  the  opinion  that  a  pass  might 
be  found  between  this  peak  and  the  firat  range  of  mountains, 
by  digging  down  some  of  the  gravel  hills  1  and  if  not,  there 
would  be  a  chance  of  passing  between  the  firat  and  second 
ranges,  through  this  gap  to  the  branch  of  Claokamis ;  or,  by 
taking  some  of  the  rangea  of  mounUins  and  fJ!o«v:ng  tnera 
down,  could  reach  the  open  ground  near  the 'Willamette,  as 
there  appeared  to  be  spurs  extending  m  that  direction.  I 
eould  also  see  a  low  gap  in  the  direction  from  where  we 
crosBod  the  small  branch,  coming  up  the  creek  on  the  lllh, 
towards  several  einsdl  prrtiries  aouth  of  ua.  It  appeared,  that 
if  we  could  get  a  road  opened  to  that  pinee,  onr  cattle  could 
range  about  these  prairies  until  waoould  find  a  pusage  for  the 
remainder  of  the  way. 

The  day  waa  getting  far  advanced,  anu  we  ma  no  provis- 
ions, save  each  of  us  a  small  biacuit ;  and  knowing  that  we 
had  at  least  twenty-five  miles  to  travel,  before  reaching  those 
working  on  the  road,  I  hastened  down  the  mountain.  I  had 
no  difficulty  in  finding  a  passage  downj  hut  I  saw  some  deep 
ravines  and  crevices  in  tlie  ioe  which  alarmed  me,  as  I  was 
compelled  to  travel  over  them.  The  snow  and  ioe  hod  melted 
underneath,  and  in  many  places  had  left  but  a  thin  shell  upon 
the  surface;  some  of  them  had  fallen  in  and  presented  hideous 
looking  caverns.  I  was  soon  out  of  dan||[er,  nnd  upon  the  eaat 
side  of  the  deep  ravine  I  saw  my  two  frienda  slowly  winding 
their  way  up  the  mountain.  They  had  gone  to  the  foot  of  the 
le^,  and  as  they  wore  boots,  and  wore  much  fatigued,  they 
abandoned  the  trip,  and  returned  down  the  mountain  to  the 
trail,  wheie  I  joine<l  them.  We  there  rested  awhile,  and  struck 
our  course  for  one  of  the  prairies  which  we  had  seen  fifom  the 
mountain.  On  our  way  we  eame  to  a  beautiful  spring  of 
water,  aurrounded  with  fine  timber  j  the  ground  waa  cov- 
ered with  whortle  berry  bushes,  and  many  of  them  hanging 
full  of  fruit,  we  halted,  ate  onr  bisoult,  gathered  berries,  and 
then  proceeded  down  the  mountain. 

After  traveling  about  ten  miles,  we  reached  the  prairie.    It 
was  covered  with  graac,  and  wts  very  weu    A  red  Mdiment 


i 


n 


JOURNAL  OP  TRAVELS  OVER 


of  about  iwo  inoliet  in  depth  covered  tlie  aurface  of  the  grounj 
in  tl)e  ffWM,  Mch  a«  if  found  around  mineral  iprtnga.  A 
beautiful  clear  atream  of  water  waa  running  through  the  prtirie, 
in  a  aoulh-east  direction.  We  had  aeen  a  prairie  about  two 
milea  further  aouth,  much  larger  than  thiB,wJach  we  iuppoaed 
to  be  dry.  We  now  loolj  our  course  fer  camp,  inieading  to 
•trike  through  the  gap  to  the  mouth  of  the  email  branch;  but 
we  failed  in  finding  the  right  .At*/«,  and  came  out  into  h« 
bottom,  three  miles  above  where  we  had  firat  .truck  the  cattle 
or  Indian  trail.  We  then  took  down  *«  bottom,  and  arrived 
in  camp  alwut  eleven  o'clock  at  night;  and  although  not  often 
tired.  I  waa  willing  to  acknowledge  that  i  was  near  being  lo. 
I  certainly  wa.  hungry,  but  my  condition  was  ho  much  better 
than  that  of  my  two  friends,  that  I  could  not  murmur.  Our 
parly  had  worked  the  road  up  to  the  sraaU  branch,  where  they 

*  oVurmoming  of  the  13th  of  October  we  held  a  consuU 
•ation.  and  determined  upon  the  future  roovem*nU  of  the 
eomoany.    The  party  designated  to  bring  us  provisions  had 
r«rformed  that  service ;  but  the  amount  of  our  proviaions  was 
f  «arly  exhausted,  and  many  of  the  party  had  no  "»«•««•  «f  P'<>; 
coring  more.    Some  of  them  began  to  despair  of  getung  through 
,ni8  season.    Those  left  with  the  camp  were  unable  to  keep 
he  cattle  together,  and  a  number  of  them  had  bean  losu     ine 
Indians  had  stolen  several  horses,  and  a  variety  of  mishaps 
occurred,  such  as  would  necessarily  follow  from  a  company  so 
long  remaining  in  one  position.    They  were  now  on  a  sma^l 
cref  k,  five  miles  from  Stony  hiU.  which  we  called  Camp  c«ek. 
and  near  the  timber.     U  was  impossible  to  keep  more  than 
one  third  of  the  men  working  at  the  road ;  the  remainder  were 
needeil  to  attend  the  camp  and  pack  provwions .    It  was  deteiv 
mined  to  send  a  party  and  view  out  the  road.  Uirough  to  tb^ 
opercounlry.  nw  the  mouth  of  Clackamis,  whiUi  «'«  oUw« 
were  to  open  the  road  as  far  as  the  big  prairie ;  a  number  sut 
ficient  to  bring  up  the  teams  and  loose  catd^  {ht  a  number  of 
families  with  Uieir  catue  had  joined  since  ours  left,  *^P»J^ 
of  our  company  did  not  send  their  loose  catUe.)  to  »  grassy 
prairie  in  tliis  bottom,  and  n  tr  the  mouth  of  this  creek,  as  the 
Sme required  to  pack  provi., ...-.  to  those  *o'k««  «»  *• '^J 
would  be  saved.    All  bei-v?  arranged,  the  next  thing  was  to 
designate  the  person*  to  go  ahead  of  the  oarty,  «id  if  found 
practiesble  to  return  wrh  ;,.rovisions  and  help ;  or  at  aU  evenU 
to  MCWUln  whether  ;■  ,?  route  were  practtcaWe. 


JU^ 


ice  of  lh«  grountl 
jral  tpring«.  A 
rough  ihc  prairie, 
ruirie  about  two 
licii  we  ■uppoaed 
mp,  inunding  to 
mall  branch;  but 
line  out  into  the 
t  Btruck  the  cattle 
ittom,  and  arrived 
Jthough  not  oAen 
as  near  being  lo. 
•  DO  much  iMtler 
It  murmur.  Our 
anch,  where  tiiey 

re  held  a  coniuU 
lovem^nts  of  the 
M  proviaions  had 
ur  proviaions  was 
i  no  means  of  pro- 
of getting  through 
re  unable  to  keep 
id  been  Inau    The 
ariety  of  mishaps 
rom  a  company  ao 
re  now  on  a  small 
sailed  Camp  creek, 
to  keep  more  than 
lie  remainder  were 
me.    It  was  deter- 
ad,  through  to  the 
I,  whilst  the  oUiers 
rie ;  a  sumber  suC- 
i,  (Cor  a  number  of 
rs  left,  and  portions 
Battle.)  to  a  grauy 
>f  this  creek,  as  the 
rorking  on  the  road 
next  thing  was  to 
party,  and  if  found 
lip ;  or  at  all  evenU 
able. 


TMlt  ROCKY  MOIJNTAIN*. 


7t 


It  was  determined  that  I  should  undertake  this  trip.  I 
uked  only  one  man  to  accompany  me.  We  touk  our  blankets, 
a  limiled  auppty  of  proviaiuna,  and  one  light  axe,  and  at  eight 
o'clock  in  the  morning  act  out.  1  was  satitfimi  ihat  the  creek 
which  we  were  (hen  on,  headed  in  the  low  gap,  seen  from  Mount 
Houd;  and  the  party  were  to  open  tlio  ruad  up  tiiia  branch. 
But  as  I  was  to  precede  then  I  passed  up  thia  creek  for  about 
eight  or  ten  mile*,  when  I  disco  <)red  the  low  gap,  went  through 
it,  and  at  noon  arrived  at  the  wet  ,)ruirie,  which  we  had  visited 
the  day  before.  The  route  waa  practicable,  but  would  require 
great  Iub4>r  to  remove  the  timber,  nnd  cut  out  the  underbrush. 

We  halted  at  the  creek  and  took  aome  rerreshment;  we  then 
atruck  for  the  low  gap  between  the  first  rang?  of  mountains 
running  west,  and  di«  liase  of  Mount  Hood,  and  traveled  (hro-Jgh 
swamps,  small  prairies,  brush,  and  heavy  timber  for  about 
twelve  miles,  when  we  found  the  labor  necessary  to  open  a 
wsgon  road  ir  '.is  direction,  to  be  greater  than  we  could  pos- 
sibly bestow  upon  it  before  the  rainy  s<>ason.  We  determined 
to  try  some  other  route,  retraced  our  irteps  six  or  seven  miles, 
and  then  bore  to  tiie  right,  around  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
when  we  atruck  into  an  old  Indian  Uail.  This  we  followed 
for  seven  or  eight  miles,  Uirough  the  gap  I  had  seen  from 
Mount  Hood.  It  is  a  rolling  bottom  of  about  four  or  five  miles 
in  width,  and  extending  from  the  base  of  Mount  Hood  sovth 
for  ten  or  twelve  miles.  The  trail  wound  around  the  mountain, 
but  as  its  coarse  was  about  that  we  wished  to  travel,  we  fol- 
lowed it  until  it  ran  out  at  tlie  top  of  the  mountain.  We  then 
took  the  ridge  we«>t,  and  traveled  until  dark :  but  as  the  moon 
shone  bright,  and  the  timber  w&s  not  very  thick,  we  turned  an 
angle  down  the  mountain  to  the  left,  to  procure  water.  We 
traveled  about  three  miles,  and  struck  upon  a  small  running 
branch ;  tliis  we  followed,  until  owing  to  the  darkness,  we  were 
compiled  to  encamp,  mnch  fatigued,  and  somewhat  disheart* 
ened. 

October  U.  At  daylight  we  were  on  the  way.  My  moc- 
casins, which  the  night  before  had  received  a  pair  of  soles,  in 
yesterday's  tramp  had  given  way,  and  in  traveling  after  night 
my  feet  had  been  badly  snsgged,  so  that  I  waa  in  poor  plight 
for  walking ;  but  aa  there  was  no  alternative,  we  started  down 
the  mountain,  and  afier  traveling  a  few  miles  I  felt  quite  well 
and  waa  able  to  take  the  lead.  We  traveled  about  three  miles, 
w.ien  we  struck  a  large  creek  which  had  a  very  rapid  current, 
over  •  stony  bottom.  I  htid  hoped  to  find  a  bottom  of  suffi- 
7 


« 


JOtBHAt  OF  TKAVBLB  OVWI 


cwnt  Width  to  «rfmit  of  •.  wigon  xmA,  but  .ft.r  fonowing  down 
S  .^.m  .ir  mile.  I  w..  »ti.fi«d  that  it  would  not  do  to 

that  the  •irwme  «>•<»  to  «n  .larrrung  height,  and  I  *."  ""•'^'^ 
Ja  if  wo^S«.d  the  branch  of  L  D- hut...  which  he«W 
n  Mount  Hood,  and  the  rainv  .eaaon  set  in.  we  could  not  ge 
lack  and  to  get  forward  would  be  equally  impoaaAle;  ao  Jat 
in  .Uher  e»rnt  aUrvation  would  be  the  retult.  And  a.  1  had 
Ln/erylXe  in  inducing  other,  to  embark  in  the  .nterpr,.e. 
^y  con2ieCe  would  not  allow  me  go  on  and  thu.  cndangr 

E^ri,ri:iouni";cJ.« 

n»nant  camo.  build  a  cabin,  put  m  auch  effecu  a.  we  coma 
not  Swk  outf  and  leave  our  wagon,  and  eff«5t.  in  the  rha-g. 
;?  aome  peraon.  until  we  couiJ  return  the  n*«t  ••••o"  T n- 
cumbered  with  our  faroilie.  and  c-.Oe.  and  finiah  the  road  ,— 
OT  othemiM  io  return  to  the  Dalle,  with  «)?«.««*r'*»»7. '* 
Tw  leave  our  bag«ge  in  charge  of  ^«  ™JJJ»;^7„|S'*  *S 
de»:end  the  Colu^ia.  And  when  "X  »"J  !»"  ^""V  "»•'*'' 
up,  we  were  not  long  in  c»fry««  '» into  exeeouon. 

We  acoordlnfflylacended  the  mounUm,  «*  It  WM  better 
travel      S.ain'i.e  bottom.    The  dUt«.c«  to  tl«  jrummU 
wai  about  four  mUea,  and  the  way  w«  «.met.me.  •«•!««?»- 
to  render  it  neceewry  to  puU  up  by  the  bu.he..     We  then 
SaHw  e»t  unUl  w7re.ched  the  eartem  point  of  th«  mo^n- 
tSn  Md  dTacendcd  to  the  bottom,  the  baae  of  which  we  had 
friveSS  the  diy  before.     We  then  .truck  for  the  trad.  «»on 
f3h;a«d  foUowed  it  unUl  it  led  u.  to  "Jie  Muthem  end  of 
the  wet  p«irie.    We  then  .truck  for  the  lower  gap  m  the 
diction  o?th"  camp.  croMod  over  and  de.cend«i  the  branch 
STe!r"t.  momSThe.*  we  found  four  of  our  company  d«r. 
iJ±l  road,  the  remainder  having  returned  to  Camp  creek  for 
t!f m.     Bnl  a.  we  had  traveled  about  fifty  mde.  thi.  day,  I 
waa  unable  to  reach  the  camp. 

(SerU.    Thi.  morning  we  aU  rtartwl  for  camp,  carry- 


•HMM 


wfwa 


r  rollowing  down 
would  not  do  U> 

r  for  monllii,  had 
the  morninff  the 
emed  to  indicnla 
\ni  time  to  falter, 
D  puraue.     1  had 
d  in  October,  and 
ind  I  was  aenaiblfl 
«a,  which  headed 
we  could  not  ge'i 
spoaaible ;  ao  that 
lit.     And  as  I  had 
i  in  the  enterpriaet 
md  thua  endanger 
I  to  them  the  diffi- 
y  of  taking  aome 
srefore  Tf  'oWed  to 
>le  place  for  a  por- 
flfecta  aa  we  could 
fecta  in  the  rhatige 
next  aeaaon,  unin- 
finiah  the  road  ;— 
r  teame,  where  we 
Miooariea,  and  then 
iod  waa  fuHy  made 
leution. 

I,  aa  it  WM  better 
lee  to  tlie  aummit 
aetimea  ao  ateep  aa 
buahea.  We  then 
point  of  thia  inoun> 
B  of  which  we  had 
L  for  the  trail,  aoon 
Jie  aoQthem  end  of 
t  lower  gap  in  the 
lacended  the  branch 
our  company  dear- 
d  to  Camp  creek  for 
|\y  milea  thia  day,  I 

tad  for  camp,  carry- 


.aMC 


THB  tOCKY  MOUNTAINIi 


n 


nif  with  ua  onr  tnola  and  provisioni.  We  reached  euvnp  about 
two  P.  M.  Many  of  our  calUe  could  not  be  found,  hue  before 
night  nearly  all  were  brought  into  camp.  The  whole  n;atter 
was  then  laid  before  tlie  company,  when  it  wns  agreed  that  we 
should  remove  over  to  the  bottom,  near  the  small  creek,  and 
if  the  weather  was  unfavorable,  leave  our  baggage  and  wagons, 
and  pack  out  the  families  as  aoon  aa  poasible.  But  na  aome 
were  out  of  provisions,  it  wss  important  that  a  messtnger 
ahould  be  sent  on  ahead  for  provisions,  and  horses  to  assist 
in  packiiiff  out.  Mr.  RulTum,  and  lady,  concluded  to  pack  out 
wIvM  articles  they  could,  and  leave  a  man  to  Uk«  charge  of 
the  teama  and  cattle,  until  he  returned  with  other  horses.  He 
kindly  furnished  me  with  one  of  his  horses  to  ride  to  the  set- 
tlement He  also  supplied  the  wife  of  Mr.  Thompson  with 
I  horse.  Mi.  Barlow  and  Mr.  Rector  made  a  proposition  to 
continue  working  the  road  until  the  party  could  go  to  and 
return  from  the  valley ;  they  agreeing  to  insure  the  safety  of 
the  wagona,  if  compelled  to  remain  through  the  winter,  by 
being  paid  -x  certain  per  cent,  upon  the  valuation.  This  pro- 
position waa  thought  reaaonable  by  some,  and  it  waa  partiallr 
agreed  to.  And  as  there  were  aome  who  had  no  hnraes  wiUi 
whioh  to  pack  oat  their  families,  they  started  on  foot  for  the 
valley,  deaigning  to  look  out  a  road  aa  they  passed  along. 
Some  men  in  the  mean  time  were  to  remain  with  the  camp, 
which  aa  above  atated  was  to  be  removed  to  the  small  branch 
on  Shutea'  fork;  and  those  who  intended  pushing  out  at  once, 
cook)  follow  up  it  to  the  Indian  trail.  Thia  all  being  agreed 
upon,  arrangementii  were  made  accordingly. 

October  16.  The  morning  was  "lowering,  with  every  indi« 
ration  of  rain.  Messrs.  Barlow  and  Rector  atarted  on  the 
trip.  AU  handa  were  making  arrangemenU  fur  moving  the 
camp.  In  the  mean  time  Mr.  Buifum  and  hia  lady,  and  Mrs. 
Thompson,  were  ready  to  start.  I  joined  them,  and  we  again 
set  out  for  the  settlement.  We  had  traveled  about  two  milea 
when  it  commenced  raining,  und  continued  raining  alighdy  all 
day.  Wa  eieamped  on  the  bottom  of  Shutes'  fork,  near  the 
amijl  branch.    It  rained  nearly  all  night. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th  October  aAer  our  horaea  had 
filled  thamaelvea,  we  packed  up  and  atarted.  It  was  still  rain, 
ing.  Wa  followed  up  thia  bottom  to  the  trail,  and  then  pur- 
aued  die  trail  over  Mount  Hood.  Whilst  going  over  this 
mountain  the  rain  poured  down  in  torrents,  it  was  foggy,  and 
vary  eoU.    Wa  trrivad  at  tha  deep  itivinu  at  about  four  I*.  M.« 


a 


n 


Ht;  nMAI-  or  T1»AV«UI  OVB» 


«nil  ht(on  wt  ••p-ndf.l  tl.«  o,.po.iie  hnnk  it  win  lUrkj  ^« 
w«  fflU  our  way  ov.r  ihe  ri.lR.%  .»a  round  ih«  point  m  lh« 
ffrnwy  nm.     »»'re  wai  graiiu«  lor  o.ir  ured  lior«t,  wid  wt 
a,.niounled.     Upon  Ui«  lidr  ol  Hit  m.mnUin.  where  *f re  • 
fiiw  eceiuirin*  ttefl*.  we  found  eome  limbe  iind  •ticke,  wiui 
which  we  .uccede.!  in  «e.ung  .  liiUe  Bre.     We  th«"  «»•"*»  » 
few  etirke  aid  conalructrd  a  u>ni,  cov«in<r  u  with  hiankeii. 
which  nrolecied  our  ba,j(^a«e  «»d  the  two  women.     M'.    Uuf- 
fumand  myaelf  aluod  •h.vering  in  the  ram  art.und  t»,e  Br'.  ••»» 
when  dayiight  appeared,  it  gave  u.  an  "PP"'*""'']^, l".^*;.^ 
each  olliera-  lank   v.angei.     Our  horew  were  •»»«"»«  *'J 
the  cold,  the  rain  had  put  out  our  lire,  and  it  aeemed  ••  «J«"fJ 
e»ery  thing  had  combined  to  reiuJer  ua  iniaerable.     Alter  uri- 
vinir  our  horaee  round  awhile,  they  eommenced  eating;  but 
we  had  reiy  Hide  to  cat,  and  rerf    .jI  troubled  much  lu 

''°°Ot!ober  18.  Aa  aoon  aa  otir  hortea  had  eatiefled  themeeUee 
we  packed  up  and  aecfnded  the  mountain  over  the  ridge,  ami 
for  two  milea  winding  around  up  and  down  ofer  a  rough  aor- 
SSe  ;^ov«ed  w.th  grm.  The  rain  waa  falling  in  torrenU,.  -nd 
it  waa  »o  foggy  that  we  could  barely  eee  ^le  trail.  We  at 
length  went  down  a  ridge  two  milea.  when  "• '>«»J.""«  ^^'jf 
der^  in  the  thick  buah.a.  The  trail  had  entiwly  diaappeared. 
We  could  go  no  further.  The  two  wom.m  aat  up«i  th^r 
hoiaca  in  the  rain,  whilat  I  went  back  to  MMirch  .or  tht  right 
trail;  Buffum  endeavoring  to  mnko  hia  waj  do-»n  the  moun- 
Uin.  1  rambled  alwut  two  inilca  up  the  mountain,  wn«f«  « 
found  the  rixht  trail,  and  immediately  returned  to  infonn  them 
of  it.  Buffum  hiid  relumed,  and  of  courae  had  not  founa  th« 
UaU.  V.'e  then  aacended  the  mountain  to  the  Uiil,  wlien  • 
breeze  aprung  up  and  cleared  away  Uie  fog.     We  culd  4ien 

'°"we  aoonww  a  large  bjnd  of  eaiUe  coining  up  the  moan\Mm 
and  in  a  abort  time  met  a  party  of  men  following  them.      I  hey 
had  »tarU)d  from  tlie  Dallea  about  eight  daya  before,  and  en 
camped  that  night  four  or  five  milea  below,  and  aa  it  waa  a 
TaS  alt,  their  cnille  h.a  atrayed  to  the  tnounUm  to  g«l 
irraaa.     But  what  was  very  gmtifying,  they  informed  ua  that  a 
Saity  of  men  from  Oregon  eity,  with  proviaiona  for  our  com 
Lny  had  encamped  with  them,  and  were  then  at  their  camp. 
We  hastened  down  the  mountain,  and  in  a  few  hours  arnwa 
«t  the  camp.     But  imagine  our  feelinga  when  we  Ujamed  ttal 
those  having  provUijna  for  us,  had  despaired  of  finding  os,  Md 


/? 


T 


it  WM  dark ;  ba« 

ilifl  point  to  the 

J  hur«rf,  wid  wt 

,in,  where  mttt  • 

Hnd  itklit,  with 

W«  than  fojnd  t 

It  with  blanket*, 

amen.     Mr.   Uuf- 

rtiund  t)i«  fire,  and 

irlunity  U»  l«H)k  et 

sre  ihiferinif  with 

M-emed  m  thouf  h 

ertble.     After  dri- 

enced  eating;  but 

(roublfld  much  in 

■tieflod  thameeWet 
ver  the  ridge,  and 
o»er  a  rough  ear- 
iimi  in  lorrenta.  and 
«he  irail.  We  at 
>re  bMame  bewil- 
itirely  diaappeared. 
Uin  aat  upon  their 
uirch  for  tht  right 
I'  do'jrn  the  moun* 
mou.'^tain.  where  I 
ned  to  infonn  ttiem 
had  not  found  th« 
)  the  Uail,  when  a 
r.     We  crtuld  iiian 

ng  up  the  mountain. 
I  wing  Ihem.     They 
lya  before,  and  en 
w,  and  aa  it  waa  a 
ie  mountain  to  get 
r  informed  na  that  a 
iaiona  for  our  com 
then  at  their  camp. 
a  few  hoar*  arrived 
hen  we  learned  that 
red  of  finding  oa,  aad 


/? 


TUB  lloaiY  MOUNTAINS  Tf 

hating  already  h«pn  out  lon)i;«Tth«n  wintipirted.h.id  returne«l 
to  the  aetUanient,  carrying  with  ihoni  all  »lie  provi»ion«,  •**e 
whii  they  had  dialrihuUtl  to  thene  men.  We  wnro  wet,  culd, 
and  !  tingry,  ami  would  not  be  likely  lo  overtake  tliein.  We 
pre**ile«i  upon  una  ol  the  men  whom  we  found  at  the  camp, 
to  mouiu  one  of  our  horiMJii,  nnd  follow  lliem.  lie  waa  abaeMt 
•bout  ten  mmul«,  when  he  returned  and  informed  ua  that  they 
were  coming.  They  aoon  made  their  appearance.  Thia  re- 
viv«l  B»,  and  for  awhile  we  forgot  that  we  were  wet  and  cold. 
They  had  gone  about  *ix  mile*  b»ck,  when  eonie  good  apirtt 
induced  tliem  lo  return  to  camp,  and  ni«ke  one  more  effort  to 
And  aa.  The  camp  waa  half  a  mile  from  the  creek,  and  we 
had  nothing  but  two  amall  coflV*i-p«u,  and  a  few  tin  cupa,  lo 
c«rry  wal*r  in  ;  but  thia  waa  inding,  aa  the  rain  waa  atiil  pour- 
ing down  upon  ua.  We  apeeddy  made  a  good  fire,  and  aet  to 
work  making  a  tent,  whieli  we  aoon  aecompiiahed,  and  the  two 
women  prepared  ua  a  good  aupper  of  bread  and  coffee.  It  waa 
t  rainy  night,  but  we  were  aa  comforUble  aa  the  riiroumitancea 
would  admit. 

Oeiobtr  l».     After  breakfaat,  the  drovera  lell  ua;   nnd  aa 

the  party  which  had  brought  ua  nroviaion*  had  been  lonjjer  out 

than  had  been  ronieni plated,  Mr.  Stewart  and  Mr.  Otlmorv 

wiahed  tT  return.     It  waa  determined  that  Mr.  Buff'^ru,  ihi 

two  female*,  Mr.  Stewart,  and  Mr.  N.  Oilmore,  •houJ  go  on 

to  the  aetUement,  and  that  Mr.  C.  Gdmore.  and  the  Indinn 

who  had  been  aent  along  to  aa*i*t  in  drliriii    the  horee*,  and 

myaelf,  ahould  haaten  on  with  the  proviaior,*  to  the  camp. 

We  were  aoon  on  the  way,  and  climbing  up  the  mountain. 

The  home*  were  heavily  loaded,  and  in  many  placea  the 

mountain  waa  very  elipperv,  and  of  courae  we  hid  great  diffi- 

oollv  in  getting  along.     It  waa  atill  raining  heavily,  and  the 

fop    *o  thick  that  a  person  could  not  aee  more  than  fifteen  feet 

aro.nd.     We  traveled  about  two  roilea  up  the  mounUin,  when 

we  found  that  whilat  it  had  been  raining  in  the  valley  it  had 

been  anowing  on  the  mountain.    The  trail  was  ao  covered 

widi  anow  that  it  waa  difficult  to  find  it,  and,  to  increWe  our 

diffleulty,  the  Indian  refoaed  to  go  any  farther.     We  ahowed 

him  the  whip,  which  increaaed  hi*  speed  a  liiUe,  but  he  »oon 

forgot  it,  waa  very  aulky,  and  would  not  aaaiat  in  driving. 

We  at  length  arrived  at  the  deep  ravine ;  here  there  waa  no 

■now,  and  we  paaaed  it  without  aerioua  diflSculty.     Two  of 

onr  paoka  coming  off,  and  rolling  down  tho  hill,  waa  the  only 

tio«bt«  that  we  had.     When  we  aaceoded  the  hill  to 


^  JOUMAL  OF  -nUYW*  «W«« 

lh«  tuUrn  •ide  of  lh«  gulf.  w«  fmind  tli«  inow  much  tWpeT 
than  upon  Uifl  wriU«rn  iide ;  bwide*.  il  hid  drifuid,  "nd  ren- 
dered «he  puugi!  over  ihe  elrip  of  the  old  •now  eomewhU 
<lengeroue,  h  in  meny  phcM  the  .ciion  of  the  w.ujr  h.d 
n.elUNl  Ihe  enow  upon  ihe  uniJer  eide.end  left  i  Ihin  ehell  o*jo» 
the  iurfece,  end  in  eome  plep«e  liolee  hed  mell«l  tlirou|h. 
We  were  in  denser  of  fulling  into  one  of  theee  pile.  ComiiHf 
to  one  of  iheifl  ravmoe  whrre  the  enow  hwl  drifted  very  much, 
I  diemounled  in  ord«r  to  pick  a  trail  iliroiiKh.  but  liefore  inie 
WM  completed,  our  horeee  euirled  down  thn  benk.  I  hid  die- 
covered  two  of  Iheec  piu,  *nA  na  to  heed  the  horeee  end  turn 
them  i  but  my  riding  horee  etarted  to  run.  end  went  direoUjr 
Iwlween  the  two  pitet  hie  weight  jerred  lh«  emet  looee.Md  it 
fell  in,  nreeenting  >  chaem  of  eome  twentyhve  or  thirty  feel 
in  depth,  but  the  horee.  being  »ip.in  the  run.  mede  hie  w;iy 
•croee  the  pit  The  other  hone;  hearing  the  noiee  end  aeeing 
the  pita  before  thwn.toroed  higher  up,  where  the  enow  and  lo«i 
were  thicker,  and  ail  reached  the  oppoeite  eide  in  eafety. 

Our  Indian  friend  now  alopped.  and  endeavored  to  Uirn  Uia 
horaea  back,  but  two  to  one  wp  an  uneven  game,  and  it  wu 
played  to  hie  dinadvantege.  He  wanted  an  additional  blanket; 
thie  I  promieed  him.  and  he  conaented  to  go  on.  We  eoon 
met  two  Indian*,  on  their  way  from  the  Dallee  to  Oregon  city; 
our  Indian  convened  with  them  awhde.  and  then  informed  ua 
of  hie  intention  to  return  with  them.  Whilet  parleying  with 
him,  a  party  of  men  from  our  camp  came  up  the  raounUIn 
with  their  caltle;  they  had  driven  their  teama  to  the  email 
branch  of  the  De  Shutee,  twelve  milee  below  the  mountain, 
where  they  had  left  the  familiee,and  aUrled  out  williilieir  cat- 
de  before  the  atream  ahould  get  too  liiyh  tooniee.  Whilet  we 
were  convening  with  theae  men,  our  Indian  had  euoceoded  in 
setting  one  looee  hone,  and  the  one  which  he  wae  ndiiw,  io 
far  from  the  band  of  pack-horeea  that,  in  the  fop,  we  could  not 
aee  him,  and  he  returned  to  the  aeiUement  with  the  two  in- 

diane  we  had  juet  met.  u      u^  -.- 

Our  horaea  were  very  troubleeome  to  driw,  «b  they  had  «!• 
nothing  forthirtyaix  houn;  but  we  eucceeded  in  getung  them 
cm  die  enow,  and  down  to  the  jrraeey  ndge,  whww  wa 
•topped  for  the  night.  My  friend  Gilmoro  ahouUtored  a  bag 
of  flour,  carried  it  half  a  mile  down  the  mountain  to  a  running 
branch,  opened  the  aacjt,  pocied  in  water  and  miied  up  bread. 
In  the  mean  time,  I  had  built  a  fir«.  We  wrapped  the  dough 
axoand  alicka  and  baked  it  before  the  fire,  heated  water  iB  out 


ow  miir.h  dMp«r 
dnruNl,  mml  ren- 
■now  •om«wh«l 
f  Ui«  w>u<r  had 
a  ihin  •htll  ovof 
melttd  tlirou|h. 
c  piu.     Cominf 
rifictl  very  mueh, 
,  but  \Mon  inw 
tank.     I  had  dia- 
I  hnraea  and  Uirn 
nd  went  directly 
:niat  looa«,  and  it 
live  or  thirty  feet 
1,  made  hie  way 
)  noine  and  aneing 
the  anow  and  icn 
le  in  aarety. 
vored  to  turn  the 
game,  and  it  waa 
dditional  blanket; 
0  on.     We  aeon 
Bi  to  Oregon  city; 
then  informed  ua 
It  parleying  with 
up  the  mountain 
ama  to  the  email 
)w  the  mounuin, 
9Ut  with  tlietr  cat' 
roaa.     Whilat  we 
had  auoceeded  in 
he  waa  riding,  lo 
fog.  we  could  not 
with  the  two  In> 

«.  »a  they  had  at* 
ed  in  getting  them 
ridge,  wharu  wa 
>  ahouUfered  •  bag 
intain  to  a  running 
d  mixed  up  breaii. 
rrapped  the  dough 
eatisd  water  in  out 


tmt  wQcmr  wwntaiw*  ff 

tin  <'upi  and  mad«  a  good  iliah  of  tea,  and  paaaed  a  very  «>n»- 
foriahla  niglit.  It  had  ceaand  raining  hnfore  auniet,  and  the 
morning  waa  clear  and  pleaaant)  we  forgot  the  paat,  and 
looked  forward  to  a  bright  future. 

OcUibtr  W.     At  B  o'clock  we  packed  tip,  took  the  trail 
down  the  mountain  lo  the  gravelly  bottom,  and  thfn  down  the 
creek  to  the  wagon-camp,  which  we  r»^arhe<l  at  3  V.  M. ;  and 
If  we  had  not  before  forgotten  our  troublet,  we  ccrtninly  ahould 
have  done  ao  upon  arriving  at  camp.     Heveral  familiea  were 
entirely  out  of  proviaiona,  othera  were  nenrly  ao,  and  all  were 
ex|)cctin^  to  rely  upon  their  poor  famiahe<l  catUe.     True,  thla 
would    have   prevented  atarvation;    but  it  would  have  been 
meagre  di»!t,  and  there  waa  no  certainty  of  having  cattle  long, 
aa  there  waa  but  litde  gmae.     A  hnppier  aet  of  beinga  I  never 
aaw.  and  the  thanka  beatowed  upon  ua  by  iheae  familiea  would 
have  compenaatcd  for  no  litUe  toil  and  hardahip.     They  were 
aupplied  wiih  an  amount  of  proviaiona  auflHoient  to  laat  them 
until  they  could  reach  the  aeldemenU.    After  waiting  one  day. 
Mr.  Oilmore  left  the  camp  for  the  aettlement,  Uking  with  him 
three  familiea ;  othera  aUrted  about  the  aame  time,  and  in  a 
few  daya  all  but  three  familiea  had  depnrled.    Theae  were  Mr. 
Btrlow'a,   Mr.  Rector'a,  and  Mr.  Caplinger'a,  all  of  whom 
had  gone  on  to  the  aettlement  for  lioraee.     Ten  men  jet  re- 
mained at  camp,  and,  after  aelecting  a  auitable  place  for  our 
wagon-yard,  we  erected  a  cabin  for  the  nto  of  those  who  were 
to  remain  through  the  winter,  and  to  atow  away  anch  of  our 
efTecU  aa  wa  could  not  pack  out.    Thia  being  done,  nothing 
remained  but  to  ewait  the  return  of  ihone  who  had  gone  for 

Gok  horaea.     We  improved  the  time  in  hunting  and  gathering 
rriea,  untd  the  «fith,  when  four  of  ua,  loaded  with  heavy 
packa,  atarled  on  foot  for  die  valley  of  the  Willamette. 

But  before  entering  upon  thia  trip.  I  will  atate  bv  what 
meana  the  timely  aaaiatance  afforded  ua  in  the  way  of  provi- 
aiona waa  effected.  The  flrat  party  atarting  for  the  aetUement 
from  the  Dallea,  after  we  had  determined  to  take  the  mountain 
route,  carried  the  neva  to  Oregon  city  that  we  were  attempt- 
ing a  paaeage  acro»«  the  Cascade  mountaina,  and  that  we 
ahould  naad  proviaiona.  The  good  people  of  that  place  im- 
madialely  raiaed  by  donation  about  eleven  hundred  pound* 
of  flour,  over  ona  hundred  pounde  of  augar.  aome  tea,  Ac, 
hired  horaea,  and  the  Mersra.  Gilmore  and  Mr.  Stewart 
volunteered  to  bring  theaa  artielea  to  us.  Tha  only  expense 
«a  wen  «kad  to  defray  waa  the  hir*  of  tha  horsea.    Tboy 


^  JOUENAL  or  TRAVBL8  OVER 

belonged  to  an  Indiin  chief,  and  of  coume  he  hud  to  be  paid. 
The  hire  wj^i  about  forty  dollara,  which  brougiit  the  flour  to 
about  four  dollara  per  hundred,  aa  there  were  about  one  ihoua- 
and  pounds  when  they  arrived.  Thoae  who  had  the  mean* 
paid  at  once,  and  those  who  were  unable  to  pay  gave  their 
due  bills.  Many  of  the  familiea  constructed  pHokHwddlea  and 
put  thero  on  oxen,  and,  in  one  insUnce,  a  Rather  bed  waa 
rolled  up  and  put  upon  an  ox ;  but  llie  animal  did  not  aeem  to 
Uke  his  load,  and  ran  into  the  woods*  scattering  the  fenthera  in 
every  direction :  he  waa  finally  secured,  but  not  until  the  bed 
was  ruined.    In  most  cases,  the  oxen  performed  well. 

In  tlie  afternoon  of  the  25th  October,  accompanied  by 
Messrs.  Creigliton,  Farwell,  and  Buckley,  I  again  atarted  to 
the  valley.  We  had  traveled  but  a  abort  diatance  when  w« 
met  Barlow  and  Rector,  who  haH  been  to  the  aeltlement 
They  had  aome  horses,  and  expected  fthera  in  a  ahort  time. 
Ihey  had  induced  a  few  familiea  whom  tliey  met  near  Mount 
Hood  to  return  with  thera,  and  fry  their  chance  back  to  the 
Dalles ;  but,  ader  waiting  one  day,  tliey  concluded  to  try  the 
mountain  trip  again.  Wo  traveled  up  the  bottom  to  the  trail, 
where  we  encamped ;  about  this  time,  it  commenced  raiuing, 
which  continued  through  the  night. 

October  26.    This  morning  at  eight  o'clock,  we  were  on 
the  way.    It  was  rainy,  and  dlaagrowble  travilinp.    We  foU 
lowed  the  trail  over  the  main  part  of  the  mountain,  when  we 
overtook  several  families,  who  had  left  ue  on  the  twenty-second. 
Two  of  the  families  had  encamped  the  night  before  in  Ihe  bot- 
tom of  the  deep  ravine ;  night  overtook  them,  and  they  were 
compelled  to  camp,  without  fuel,  or  grass  for  cattle  or  horses. 
Water  they  bud  in  plenty,  for  it  was  poaring  down  upon  them 
all  the  night.    One  of  their  horses  broke  loose,  and  getting  to 
the  provision  sack,  destroyed  the  whole  eontenta.    Thwre  were 
nine  persons  in  the  two  families,  four  of  them  small  ehUdran, 
and  it  was  about  eighty  milea  to  the  neareat  aetdorient.     Th* 
children,  as  well  as  the  grown  people,  were  ner/ly  barefoot, 
and  poorly  clad.    Their  names  were  Powell  <Mi  Sbnleie. 
Another  family  by  the  name  of  Hood,  had  auoeeedea  in  getting 
up  the  gravelly  hill,  and  Ending  gt»8  for  their  animals,  and  a 
litde  fuel,  had  ahared  their  scanty  supply  with  these  two  fami- 
lies, and  wh«»o  we  overtook  then  they  were  ell  encamped  near 
each  other.    We  gave  them  about  half  of  our  arovieionB,  and 
tnasnped  owr  tbun.    Mr.  Hood  kisd^y  fiuoMMd  «•  win  • 


THE  ROCXir  MOUNTAINS. 


81 


hiid  to  b«  pniit. 
\g\n  the  flour  to 
about  on«  ihuua* 
}  had  th«  mean* 
I  pny  gave  their 
paok-suildles  and 
Rather  bed  waa 
1  did  not  aeem  to 
i^g  the  Ten  then  in 
not  until  the  bed 
med  well, 
accompanied  by 
again  atorted  to 
iatance  when  we 
>  the  aetdement. 
I  in  a  abort  time. 
'  met  near  Mount 
tnoe  back  to  the 
eluded  to  try  the 
ottom  to  tb     rail, 
nmenoed  .uiuiagt 

lock,  we  were  on 
tvilinB.    We  fol« 
ountain,  when  we 
he  twenty-«econd. 
before  in  the  bot* 
im,  and  thev  were 
r  rattle  or  boraea. 
( down  upon  them 
Me,  and  getting  to 
mta.    There  were 
m  amall  ehildren, 
aetllopient.    The 
re  neryly  barefoot, 
irell  «>na  S'jnteie. 
loeeedea  in  getting 
leir  animal*,  and  a 
tth  theae  (wo  fami* 
tXi  encamped  near 
)ur  Broviaiona,  and 
maiahad  «»wiih  • 


wagon  cover,  with  which  we  conatnicted  a  tent,  under  which 

we  reaied  for  tJie  night.  .     ,    ,  ,       ..   • 

October  27.  The  two  families  who  had  loat  their  provi- 
■ions  succeeded  in  finding  a  heifer  that  belonged  to  one  of  the 
companies  traveling  in  advance  of  us.  In  rambling  upon  the 
rocky  cliffs  above  the  trail  for  grass,  it  had  fallen  down  the 
ledge,  and  was  so  crippled  as  not  to  be  able  to  travel.  Ihe 
owner*  had  left  it,  and  as  the  animal  was  in  good  condition, 
it  wa*  slaughtered  and  the  meat  cured. 

After  traveling  four  miles  through  the  fresh  snow,  (which 
had  fallen  about  four  inches  deep  during  the  night,)  we  came 
to  where  the  trail  turned  down  to  the  Sandy.  We  were  glad  to 

Et  out  of  the  enow,  as  we  wore  moccasin*,  and  the  bottom* 
ing  worn  off,  our  feet  were  exposed.  Two  mile*  brought 
us  to  where  we  left  the  Sandy,  and  near  the  place  *"'»«  J« 
met  the  party  with  provisions;  here  we  met  Mr.  Buffum.Mr. 
Lock,  and  a  Mr.  Smith,  with  fourteen  pack-horses,  going  for 
effeuU  to  Fort  Deposit— the  name  which  we  had  given  our 

•I^ie  numerous  herd*  of  catde  which  had  passed  along  had 
•o  ate  up  the  grass  and  bushes,  that  it  wa*  with  great  difficulty 
the  horses  could  procure  a  sufficiency  to  sustain  life.  Among 
the  rest,  wa*  a  horse  for  me;  and  as  I  had  a  few  artwles  at 
the  fort,  Mr.  Buffum  was  to  take  the  horse  along  and  pack 
them  out  Two  of  hia  horses  were  so  starved  a*  to  be  unable 
to  climb  the  r^oimtoina,  and  we  took  them  back  with  u*.  The 
weather  by  thi*  time  had  cleared  up;  we  separated,  and  eacb 
party  took  it*  way.  .  , 

A  abort  distance  below  this,  our  trad  united  with  one  which 
BtarUng  from  the  Dalles,  runs  north  of  Mount  Hood,  and  until 
thi*  *ea8on  wa*  the  only  trail  traveleu  by  the  whites.  We 
proceeded  down  the  Sandy,  crossing  it  several  times,  through 
Uiieket*  of  *pmce  and  alder,  until  we  amved  at  the  fork*, 
which  were  about  fifteen  mile*  from  the  base  of  Mount  Hood. 
The  bottom  of  the  Sandy  i*  *imilar  to  the  branch  of  De  Shule* 
which  we  aacended;  but  in  moat  ca*es  the  gravel  and  stone* 
are  covered  with  mos*;  portions  of  it  are  entirely  deetilute  of 
vegetation.  The  mountain*  are  very  high,  and  are  moatly 
eovered  with  timber.  At  a  few  ;oint*  are  ledge*  ol  grayish 
lock,  but  the  greater  part  of  the  mountain  i*  composed  of  *and 
and  gravel;  it  is  much  csut  up  by  deep  ravine*,  or  kanyon*. 
The  trail  i*  aometime*  very  difficult  to  fi^ow,  on  acoouai 
of  (ha  brash  and  iogat  »bou(  our  camp  are  a  few  btioohM  of 


■«ai 


1.1  ■  [|l>r".fM.' 


i 


m 


-  %v.. 


^  JOXTKSAh  or  TRAVELS  OVEB 

brtkeft,  which  the  horses  eat  greedily.  The  itwarn  coining  in 
from  the  south-cast  i-  ihe  one  which  I  foUowed  down  on  the 
Uth,  and  from  appearance  I  came  within  five  miles  of  the 
forks.  The  bottom  in  this  vicinity  is  more  than  a  mile  wide, 
and  is  covered  with  apruae,  hemlock  and  alder,  with  a  variety 

of  small  bushes.  ,    ^      ,     ■      ._„.i.w« 

October  28.     We  started  early,  and  after  havmg  traveled 
several  miles,  found  a  pa*ch  of  good  grase,  where  we  halted  our 
horses  for  an  hour.     We  then  traveled  on.  crosaing  the  Sandy 
three  times.    This  is  a  rapid  stream  ;  the  water  is  cold,  and 
the  bottom  very  stony.    We  made  about  fifteen  or  sixteen 
miles  only,  as  we  could  not  get  our  horses  along  faster.     We 
struck  into  a  road  recenUy  opened  for  the  passage  of  w«gons. 
Mr.  Taylor,  from  Ohio,  who  had  left  our  company  with  hia 
family  and  cattle  on  the  7th,  had  arrived  safely  in  the  valley, 
and  had  procured  a  party  of  men  and  had  sent  them  into  th« 
mountains  to  meet  u»  at  the  crosaing  of  Sandy,     fhey  had 
come  up  thia  far,  and  commenced  cutting  the  toad  toward  Uie 
aetdements.    After  traveling  this  road  five  or  six  roUea  we  came 
upon  their  ct.  ;    where  we  again  found  •omething  «•  eat;  our 
proviaioaa  havu,g  been  all  consumed.    The  roafl  here  runa 
through  a  flat  or  bottom  of  several  miles  m  width,  and  extend, 
ing  ton  or  twelve  milea  down  the  Sandy;  it  bear,  towards  the 
north,  whilst  the  creek  forme  an  elbow  to  the  south.    The 
■oil  is  good,  and  is  covered  with  a  very  heavy  growth  of  pine 
and  white  cedar  a..>ber.    I  saw  some  trees  of  white  cedar  Uiat 
were  seven  feet  in  diamet^T,  and  at  leaat  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  high.    I  measured  eevt-al  old  treea  that  had  Men,  wluch 
were  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  leagtli,  and  about  six  feet 

in  diameter  at  the  root.  We  ?"»«»  «T  u°""kCT  ^. 
several  beautiful  streams,  which  meandered  through  w>^^' 
The  irround  lies  sloping  to  the  south,  as  it  la  on  the  north  «d« 
of  the  creak.  In  the  evening  it  commenced  raming  a  litUe. 
We  remained  at  this  camp  aU  night.         .  .     .. 

October  29.  This  morning,  after  breakfast,  we  parted  with 
our  friends  and  pursued  our  way.  We  soon  a»c«nded  a  rid^ 
which  we  foUowed  for  seven  or  eight  miles,  alternately  praine 
and  fern  openings.  In  these  openings  the  timber  is  not  laig^ 
but  grows  rather  scrubby.  There  are  ntt«»«"H»«  «"'^"jf 
beautiful  pine  Umber,  tall  and  straight  The  aoil  »  of  a  rrf 
dish  cast  and  very  mellow,  and  I  think  would  produce  well. 
We  came  to  the  termination  of  this  ridge  and  descended  to  tt» 
bottom,  whieh  has  hmi  cowred  with  heavy  timber,  but  which 


MM 


THE  EOCKV  MOONTAlNi. 


89 


ito«am  coming  in 
wed  down  on  the 
Sve  miles  of  the 
ihan  a  mile  wide, 
Bf,  with  a  variety 

r  having  traveled 
lere  we  halted  our 
■ouing  the  Sandy 
water  is  cold,  and 
fifteen  or  sixteen 
ilong  faster.     We 
issage  of  wagons, 
iompany  with  his 
fely  in  the  valley, 
ent  them  into  the 
andy.    They  had 
e  road  toward  tlie 
six  miles  we  came 
lethinff  <o  eat;  our 
le  roatd  here  runs 
triddi,  and  extflnd> 
bears  towards  the 
the  south.    Th« 
vy  growth  of  pine 
}f  white  cedar  that 
I  hundred  and  fifty 
I  had  fallen,  which 
and  about  six  feet 
small  prairies  and 
through  the  timber, 
s  on  the  north  side 
«d  raining  a  little. 

ast,  we  parted  widl 
)n  ascended  a  rid(|e 
.  alternately  praine 
timber  is  not  large, 
iimerous  groves  of 
he  soil  is  of  a  red 
Duld  produce  wdl. 
ii  descended  to  tiM 
r  timber,  but  whieb 


has  been  killed  by  fire.    From  this  ridge  we  could  "O  «'««1[ 
others,  of  a  similar  appearante,  descendmg  gradually  towards 

*We*Vere  crossed  the  creek  or  river,  which  was  deep  and 
rapid ;  and  as  our  horses  were  barely  able  to  carry  themseWes, 
we  were  compelled  to  wade  the  stream.    Buckly  had  been 
sick  for  several  days,  and  not  able  to  carry  his  P^'-k  5  ""d  'f  «* 
other  times  I  regretted  the  necessity  of  being  compelled  to  carry 
his  pack,  I  now  found  it  of  some  advantage  iii  crossing  the 
stream,  as  it  assisted  in  keeping  me  erect,   buckly  m  attempt- 
inff  to  wade  across,  had  bo  far  succeeded  as  to  reach  the  middle 
of  the  sueam,  where  he  svopped,  and  was  about  giving  way 
when  he  was  relieved  by  Harwell,  a  •««>"«  **«;•«  yf"'^*! 
from  the  state  of  Maine.    In  crownng  a  small  bottom,  one  of 
the  horses  fell;  we  were  unable  to  raise  him  to  his  feet,  and 
were  compeUed  to  leave  him.    The  other  we  succeeded  in 
eetUnir  to  6ie  top  of  the  hilU  where  we  were  also  compelled  to 
Kave  Tiim.    The  former  died  but  the  latter  was  taken  in  a  few 
days  af\er  by  those  who  were  opening  the  road.    ATler  being 
relieved  of  the  burthen  of  the  two  horses,  we  pushed  forv?ard 
on  foot,  as  fast  as  Buckly's  strength  and  our  heavy  packs 
would  allow;  and  as  it  had  been  raining  all  day,  our  pacU 
wera  of  double  their  former  weight.     At  dark  we  met  a  party 
of  men  who  had  been  through  with  a  drove  of  cattle,  and  were 
returning  with  pack  horses  for  *«  *h'f  J"""'!'**  *    „™ 
vet  at  Fort  Deposit.    We  encamped  with  them.    After  cross- 
ins  the  Sandy  our  course  was  south-west,  over  a  rolling  and 
pilirie  country.    The  prairie,  as  well  as  the  timber  l*nj,  was 
covered  with  fern.    The  soil  was  of  a  reddish  cast,  and  very 
mellow,  as  are  all  the  ridges  leading  from  die  mountora  to  the 
Willamette  or  Columbia  river.     We  traveled  this  day  sixteen 
or  seventeen  miles.  _ 

October  80.  This  morning  was  rainy  as  usual.  Four 
mttes  brought  us  to  tht  valley  of  the  Claokamis,  which  was 
here  five Ir  six  mdee  wide.  The  road  was  over  a  roUing 
eountnr  simUar  to  that  we  passed  over  on  yesterday,  fo  the 
leftof  thetrwlwe  saw  •  house  at  the  foot  of  the  hdl;  we 
made  fbr  it,  aiid  found  eome  of  our  friends  who  had  started  from 
camp  with  C.  GUmore.  The  daim  was  held  by  «  «»  n™ 
McSwa'ii.  We  tarried  here  until  the  rooming  of  the  81st, 
when  we  again  started  (oe  Oregon  city.  Our  trail  ran  for  five 
or  six  miles  along  the  foot  of  the  hUl,  through  p«ine  and  tins- 
ber  liod.  The  soU  tooks  good,  but  is  rather  intslkiedi©  gravel ; 


1 


I 


WHB*-' 


^  JOriBNAI.  OP  TRAVELS  OVER 

numercm  streann  flow  down  from  the  high  ground,  which 
riMis  gradually  lo  a  rolling  fern  plain,  surh  as  we  traveled  oyer 
on  the  28th,  and  29lh.  Wo  then  continued  upon  the  high 
ground  aeven  or  eight  milei,  alternately  through  timber  and 
fsrn  prairies.  We  then  turned  down  to  Clackamia  bottom, 
whicli  is  here  about  one  mile  wide;  this  we  followed  down 
for  three  miles,  when  night  overtook  U8,r.nd  we  put  up  at  Mr. 
Halcho's,  having  spent  just  one  month  in  the  Cascade  moun- 

^°Novtmber  1.  '^Thit  morning  we  left  llatcheV,  and  in  two 
miles  travel  we  reached  the  crossings  of  the  Clackamia  rivor. 
At  this  point  it  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  yard*  wide-  the  banks 
of  gcnUe  descent,  the  water  wemling  its  way  for  the  noble 
Columbia  over  a  pebblv  bottom.  Here  U  a  vihage  of  about 
twenty  families,  inhabited  by  th«  Clackamis  Indians,  who  are 
few  in  number,  apparently  harmless,  and  caring  for  nothmg 
more  than  a  few  fish,  a  little  game,  or  suoh  subsistence  as  is 
barely  sufficient  to  siippiMl  lifa.  There  are  but  two  or  ihrea 
houses  in  the  village  t^Uwy  are  made  by  setting  up  side  and 
centre  posts  in  the  grouud,  the  latter  being  the  highest,  to  re- 
ceive  a  long  pole  to  uphold  puncheons  split  out  of  cedar,  which 
form  the  covering;  the  sides  are  enclosed  with  the  sama 
material,  in  an  upright  position.  These  pujcheons  are  held 
to  their  places  by  leather  thong«,  fastened  around  them  to  tho 
poles  that  Uy  upon  the  posts^^^After  examining  i.is  httle  com. 
rounity,  the  remains  of  a  once  powerful  a.id  warlikr  people, 
we  obtained  the  use  of  their  canoes,  crossed  over  the  river, 
and  after  two  miles  further  travel  we  reached  a  point  that  had 
long  been  a  desired  object;  where  we  were  to  liave  rest  and 

fefresluDeat,  ...  •■       >       •  « 

We  were  Ww  at  the  place  destined  at  no  aistant  period 
to  be  an  important  point  in  the  commercial  history  of  the 
Union— Oregon  City.  Passiag  through  the  timber  that  lies 
to  the  east  of  the  city,  we  beheld  Oregon  and  the  t  alii,  of  the 
Willamette  at  the  same  moine..t.  We  were  so  filled  wiU.  gra- 
titude that  we  had  reached  the  setUemenls  of  the  white  man, 
•nd  with  admiration  at  the  appearance  of  the  large  sheet  ol 
water  rolling  over  the  Falls,  thct  we  stopped,  and  in  ihw  mo- 
meat  of  happdiesa  recounted  oiw  tods,  in  thought,  wnh  laon 
rapidity  than  tongiie  can  express  or  pen  write.  Ite»e  we 
hastily  scanned  over  Uie  distance  traveled,  from  point  to  point, 
whkb  we  computed  to  be  in  miles  u  follows,  via.  From  In- 
4^fpuiaim  l»  Fort  Utvem*  «*»  «n>l«»  i  *^«™»  i'ort  UrtaM 


fBSiP 


"n 


THE  ROOKY  KOUNTAIltA 


85 


I  ground,  which 
we  traveled  over 

upon  the  high 
rtigh  Umber  and 
lukamia  bottom, 

followed  down 
te  put  up  at  Mr. 

Cascade  mouD* 

iheV,  and  in  two 
Dlackamis  rivor. 

wide-  the  banlii 
ly  for  the  nobla 

village  of  about 
Indians,  who  ar« 
iring  for  nothing 
subsistence  as  is 
but  two  or  ihre« 
ling  up  side  and 
ie  Highest,  to  re« 
It  of  cedar,  which 
1  with  the  same 
;;ckeon8  are  held 
ound  them  to  the 
ng  tl.is  Uttle  com> 
I  warlikr  people, 
1  over  the  river, 
1  a  point  that  had 
1  to  iiave  rest  and 

no  distant  period 
al  history  of  the 
i  timber  that  lies 
d  the  Falin  of  the 
sofiUed  witl.  gra« 
)f  the  white  man, 
the  large  sheet  of 
I,  and  in  this  mo< 
iought,  with  jjoio 
write.  Here,  w« 
oro  point  to  point, 
«s,  via .  FrOBB  In- 
nun  fort  lmvm$ 


to  Fort  Hall.  585  miles  5  from  Fort  Hall  to  Fort  Bois,  881 
miles;  from  Fort  Bois  to  the  D.lles.  306  miles {  from  the 
Dalles  lo  Oregi.n  City,  (by  the  wagon  route  soutn  of  Mount 
Hood,)  100  miles,  raaki  g  the  toUl  distance  from  Indep  .jdenct 
to  Oregon  city,  1060  miles.  Actual  measurement  wtU  vary 
these  distances,  most  probably  lessen  them ;  and  it  »  very 
certain,  that  by  bridging  the  streams,  the  travel  will  bo  much 
shortened,  by  giving  to  it  a  more  direct  course,  and  upon 
ground  equally  favorable  for  a  good  road. 

Orkgon  City.    Wow  at  rest,  having  arrived  at  this  place, 
before  entering  upon  a  general  description  of  tlte  country,  1 
will  give  a  short  acr-  mt  of  Oregon  city,  as  it  appeared  to  me. 
This  town  is  loca«..   upon  the  east  aide  of  the  Willamette 
river,  and  at  the  Falls.     It  is  about  thirty  miles  above  the 
iuaciion  of  the  WUIamette  with  the  Columbia,  following  the 
meanders  of  the  river;   but,  dirwUy  from  the  Columbia  at 
Vancouver,  it  is  only  about  twenty  miles.    It  wm  laid  out  by 
Dr.  M'Uughlin,  in  1849,  who  holds  a  claim  of  sue  hunflrea 
and  forty  acres  upon  the  east  side  of  1  «  river.    From  the 
river,  upon  this  side,  immediately  at  the  Falls,  there  riaes  » 
rocky  bluff  of  about  eighty  feet  in  height,  which  bears  off  to 
the  north-east.    Passing  down  the  river,  the  land  lieeabout  ten 
fevit  lower  than  the  suriane  of  the  water  above  the  Falls.     1  hn 
plsteau  extends  for  about  one-fourth  of  a  mile,  when  there  is  a 
fVirther  descent  of  about  fifteen  fee^  from  which  a  level  and 
fertUe  bottom  skirts  the  Willnmetia  for  a  mile  and  a  half,  to 
where  the  waters  of  the  Claokamis  are  united  with  those  ol 
the  Willamette.    Upon  the  plateau,  immediately  below,  ai.d  a 
small  portion  of  the  higher  ground  above  the  Falls,  is  the  por- 
tion ofhis  grant,  that  Dr.  McLaughlin  has  laid  off  in  town  lots. 
Three  years  ago,  this  lund  was  covered  with  a  dense  forest, 
which  is  BOW  cleared  off,  to  roiJte  loom  for  the  evMUon  of 
housea  to  accomroodate  the  inhabitanU  of  the  iown. 

There  were  aiready  erected,  when  I  left  there,  about  one 
hundrr-*  bouses,  most  of  them  not  only  commodic»s,  but  neau 
AoMHur  fht  public  buildings,  the  moat  conspicuous  were  the 
aert  IT  ^  !• ;  -hurnh,  vyhioh  is  Itwated  near  the  upper  part  of 
the  to  n,  i  A  »  sj^ndid  Catholic  eliap«l.  which  stonds  near 
^  ti  jr  .  the  bhitf  bank  at  the  lower  part  of  the  town  site. 
There  .  iwo  grist  miUs;  one  owned  by  M'Laa|hbn,  hav- 
ing three  sets  of  bnhr  runnsni,  and  wUl  eompare  well  with 
moat  rf  the  mills  m  the  Steteaj   the  other  i»  a  smttUw  Bull. 


'  a 


■**'—. 


g^  JOURNAL  OP  TRAVFJ.A   OVRK 

owned  by  OoTernor  Abernethy  nnd  Mr.  Beer*.  At  each  of 
theio  griit-milU  there  are  also  aaw-tnilN,  which  cut  a  greai 
(leal  ofplank  for  the  use  of  emijfranta.  There  are  four  stores, 
two  taverns,  one  halter,  one  tannery,  three  tailor  shops,  two 
cubinet-niJiliert,  two  * ilveramiths,  one  cooper,  two  blacksmiths, 
one  physician,  three  lawyers,  one  printing  ofBce,  (at  which  the 
Oregon  Spectator  is  printed,  semi-monthly,  nt  five  dollars  ^er 
annum,)  one  lath  machine,  and  a  good  brick  yard  in  active 
operation.  There  arc  also  quite  a  number  of  carpenters, 
masons,  Ac,  in  constant  employment,  at  good  wages,  in  end 
about  this  village.  The  population  is  computed  at  about  six 
h  ,r,dred  white  inhabitants,  exclusive  of  a  few  lodges  of  la- 
>jlian«(. 

The  Indians  spend  most  of  their  nights  in  gambling,     fhey 
have  a  game  peculiar  to  tho  tribes  of  the  lower  Columbia,  and 
8:1 1  have  not  sesn  it  described,  I  will  mention  it  here.^^  Six 
men  meet  in  their  lodge,  when  they  divide  among  themselvei 
into  partners  of  three  on  eaci:  side,  then  seat  themselves,  with 
a  pole  between  the  parties;    the  middle  man  on  one  of  the 
sides  has  a  small  bone  or  stick  which  he  holds  in  his  hand; 
his  partners  ttpon  the  loft  and  right  keep  up  a  regular  knock- 
ing upon  the  pole  with  sticks,  and  flinging  of  songs.     The  man 
with  the  bone  keeps  shiftin^^  it  as  quioklv  as  possible  from 
hand  to  hand,  to  deceive  the  'middle  man  of  the  opposite  side, 
as  to  vhich  hand  holds  the  bone;  after  he  is  satisfied,  he  stops 
and  inquires  of  his  opponent  in  which  hand  he  holds,  it.     If 
the  opponent  guesses  rightly,  he  throws  the  bone,  with  a  small 
pointed  stick,  to  the  winner,  who  goes  through  the  same  cere- 
mony as  the  loser  had  done;  but  if  the  man  guesses  wrongly 
as  to  the  hand  that  holds  the  bone,  be  hands  over  a  littls 
pointed  stick.    Thus  they  keep  it  up  tmtil  one  or  the  other 
has  won  a  certain  number  of  pointed  sticks,  which  they  have 
agreed  shall  constitute  the  game,  when  the  stakes  are  delivered 
over  to  the  winning  party .V^  So  desperately  attached  to  this 
game  are  these  savages,  that  they  will  gamble  away  eveiT; 
specie]  of  olothinr  or  property  they  n*ay  possess ;  after  \hw 
their  wives,  and  Uiey  have  been  known  to  slake  their  own 
services,  for  a  cerUin  number  of  moons,  and  sometimes  even  to , 
become  the  slaves  for  life  of  Ae  more  fortunate  gamesters.       J 
The  Blorea  have  but  a  very  limited  supply  of  such  arUeles  at 
emigrants  need  i  but  the  present  merchants,  or  other*  that  will 
soon  locate  there,  will  find  it  to  their  interest  to  take  out  sueh 
commoditi«3  aa  will  be  required.    Mr.  Engle,  who  went  out 


I 


rt.  At  each  of 
lich  cut  u  great 
B  arc  four  utorei, 
nilor  Bhopa,  two 
two  blacksmiths, 
ice,  (at  which  the 
It  five  (lollaH  per 
(  yard  in  active 
r  of  carpenter*, 
id  wages,  in  end 
ted  at  about  six 
iw  lodges  of  lu- 

[ambling.  They 
;r  Columbia,  and 
an  it  here.'^''  Six 
mong  themselves 
themselves,  with 
lan  on  one  of  the 
Ids  in  his  hand; 
a  regular  knock* 
range.    The  man 

as  possible  from 
the  opposite  side, 
satisfied,  he  stops 

he  hulda.it.  If 
>one,  with  a  small 
jh  the  same  cere- 

giiesses  wrongly 
mds  over  a  little 
one  or  the  other 

which  they  have 
akes  are  delivered 
f  attached  to  this 
mble  away  ever^ 
assess ;  after  vhw 

stake  their  own 
lometimes  even  to 
ate  gamettere. 
of  such  articles  at 
r>r  other*  that  wiU 
It  to  take  out  sueh 
gle,  who  ^eiQtout 


THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


87 


with  the  late  emigranta.  Iiad  erected  a  small  foundry,  with  the 
intention  of  casting  some  old  cannon  thai  lay  'bout  the  lort, 
and  other  broken  utennils,  into  those  most  needed  for  culinary 
purposes;  but  he  had  not  commenced  business  when  I  left. 

Unimproved  lots  bcU  at  from  one  to  five  hundred  doUara 
each,  (the  price  varying  wi:h  their  location,)  in  the  currency 

of  the  country.  ..,-..       ,.  i... 

The  ground  back  of  the  town  on  the  bluff,  is  rather  rocky 
for  half  a  mile,  to  the  foot  of  the  hill;  upon  ascending  the  hill, 
the  country  conaials  of  fern  openings  and  timber  grove*  alter- 
nately, for  a  tliMance  of  about  thirty-five  miles,  to  the  Cascade 
mountains.  Upon  this  bluff,  which  is  covered  wiili  timber, 
there  is  a  small  but  beautiful  lake,  supplied  with  springs,  which 
has  an  outlet  by  a  rivulet  that  passes  through  the  town  into 

The  river  below  the  Falls,  for  several  miles,  is  about  two 
hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide,  and  opposite  the  town  it  is  very 
deep.  The  bank  on  the  east  side,  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
hundred  yards,  is  a  cliff  of  about  twenty  feet  in  height,  for  the 
first  half  mile,  of  a  firm  basaltic  rock ;  from  thence  down  to  the 
Clackamis  the  bank  is  a  sandy  loom.  ..    .    r» 

Upon  the  weat  side  of  the  Willamette,  and  opposite  to  Ore- 
iron  city,  are  laid  out  two  villages;  the  npper  one  is  called 
Linn  city,  in  honor  of  the  late  senator  from  Missouri,  whose 
memory,  for  his  pntrioiic  servises  in  the  cause  of  the  Oregon 
emierant,  is  held  in  high  estflcsai  br  ever^  tnie  mend  of  his 
country  and  of  humanity.     When  br.  Urn  died,  the  friends 
of  Oregon  lost  a  champion  who  vc»jW  m%  hevft  shamelessly 
deserted  them  in  the  hour  of  need.     Mr.  Moore,  late  of 
MiBSouri,  is  the  proprietor;  his  claim  commences  one-fourth 
of  a  mile  below  the  Falls,  extends  above  the  Falls  one  and 
three-fourths  <f  a  mile,  and  back  from  the  river  one  half  of  a 
mile.     When  I  loft,  there  were  about  fifteen  buildings  in  this 
viUaae.  inhabited  mosdy  by  mechanics.     The  proprietor  had 
refiued  to  sell  water  power,  which  was  doubUess  one  of  the 
cBa«ona  why  more  emigrants  did  not  settle  in  it. 
^exu  lower  down,  is  the  claim  of  Mr.  Hugh  Bnrns, «  n»'  ve 
of  Ireland,  but  lately  an  emigrant  from  Missouri;   he  Is  the 
rwoprietor  of  MulUnoma  city,  which  is  so  called  from  the  In- 
dian name  for  the  Willamette  river,  and  a  tnbe  of  Indians  of 
this  name  that  once  inhabited  that  country.     I  hie  tribe  is  now 
nwriy  extinct"    At  their  burial  places,  near  this,  there  are 
hundreds  of  skulls  yet  Iving  over  the  ground.     When  1  MX, 


■H 


wdi^ 


I 


I 


^  JOCaNAL  OF  TRAVEL*  OVER 

there  were  but  few  buildinn,  and  eomo  few  mfchanice  •eltlcd 
in  it.  There  are  two  fcrriea  esiablished  over  the  river,  from 
tlie  villugea  on  the  weat  aide,  Ut  Oregon  cily.  Upon  llie  weal 
aide,  the  bank  of  the  river  ia  aimilar  to  ihut  on  die  eaai,  quiw 
high,  leaving  bill  n  amall  aemicircuiar  level  for  liie  firat  boliom  j 
and  upon  a  farther  ascent  of  about  twenty  feel,  therfl  ia  a  larger 
plain  at  llio  lower  end  of  thi«  blulf.  The  bottom  corrwpondt 
w«ii  with  thai  ubove  the  Clackamia  on  the  oppoaile  aide,  and 
ia  covered  with  a  deiue  growth  of  fir;  the  ueea  are  tall  and 
atraight. 

DEBCRirrioN  ot  thi  Country.  The  journey  to  Oregoo 
city  ac.  .upliahed,  and  an  examination  of  tlio  immediate  vicinity 
completed, !  aet  about  an  inquiry  aa  to  the  fpntiirea  of  ihe  coun- 
try  iia  ferlilily,  its  general  auaieplibilily  of  improvement,  and 

iu  capability  for  the  aupport  of  a  large  and  induatrious  popu- 
lation. In  BO  doing,  in  addition  to  what  I  could  aee  for  myaelf, 
I  applied  for  information  to  all  whoae  opportunitiea  had  been 
favorable  for  obtaining  a  knowledge  of  any  particular  fcection. 
In  thie  work  I  waa  an  inquirer  after  facta,  in  order  to  decid* 
the  quealion  aa  to  the  propriety  of  uking  my  family  there  for 
a  permanent  home;  and  whan  I  noted  tliea*  facU.  no  attention 
waa  pakl  to  the  claaaification  and  arrangement  of  the  varioua 
Bubjeeta,  u  ia  generally  done  by  thoae  travelera  and  geogra- 
phera  whoae  buaineaB  ia  book-making.  Neceasarily,  therefore, 
my  Journal  preaenta  facta,  iuat  in  the  order  in  which  they 
came  to  me,  and  aa  I  received  tliem  tliey  are  placed  before  the 
reader.  _ . 

The  landscape  immediately  adjacent  to  the  villageB  of  Linn 
city  and  MullinoHm  present  several  abrupt  precipices  of  various 
heighta,  upon  each  of  which  ia  a  email  level,  of  lesser  and 
greater  widths,  clothed  with  fine  grass  and  sUidded  over  with 
oak  limber,  until  the  highest  ascent  is  reached,  when  it  spreads 
out  into  an  extensive  fern  opening.  From  these  cliffs  thero 
gush  out  fine  atraams  of  pure  spring  water;  and  they  will 
afford  most  beautiful  country  aeate  for  the  erection  of  reai- 
dencea  convenient  to  the  towns,  w  hen  their  improvement  shall 
render  such  sites  desirable.  From  these  heighta,  (which  are 
easily  ascended,)  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  falls  of  the  river 
for  several  milea,  and  of  Mount  Hood.  From  the  heights  to 
Quality  Plains,  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles,  ilie  country 
presents  rolling  plains,  with  small  grovea  of  oak  and  fir,  and  it 
w  well  watered  by  springs  and  small  rivulets. 


P 


DMhanics  ■ettlcd 
r  thn  river,  from 
Upon  llie  wrtl 
n  ihe  eoal,  quilt) 
the  first  bottom; 
,  ther<j  i*  a  larver 
Itoin  corrvapondt 
ppoaito  aide,  and 
jTsea  are  tall  and 


urney  to  Orf-gon 
nmediate  vicinity 
tiirea  of  tlie  uoun- 
mprovenient,  and 
n«iu«triou9  popu- 
Id  Bee  for  myaelf, 
luniliea  had  been 
lartieular  section. 
I  order  to  decide 
^  family  tliere  for 
facta,  no  attention 
at  of  the  varioua 
elera  and  geogra- 
laaarily.  therefore, 
It  in  which  they 
placed  before  tho 

e  villagea  of  Linn 
scipicesof  varibua 
vel,  of  lesser  and 
iludded  over  with 
d,  when  it  spread* 
these  clifls  thero 
r;  and  they  will 
)  ereettoD  of  reai- 
roprovement  shall 
lights,  (which  are 
falls  of  the  river 
itn  the  heights  to 
Allies,  tlie  country 
oak  and  fir,  and  it 


THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  g|t 

From  the  description  given  of  the  towns,  the  reader  may 
have  already  inferred,  that  the  FaIIs  of  the  Willamette  coni> 
bine  all  that  is  necessary  to  cnnsiiuile  great  water  privil<'gi>s 
for  propelling  nnchinery;  hut  before  leaving  this  point,  we 
will  take  a  more  particular  view  of  them. 

These  falls  are  occasioned  by  the  descent  of  the  whole 
volume  of  the  river  over  a  ledge  of  basnllic  rock  that  crosses 
the  entire  channel.  The  greatest  fall  at  any  point  is  twenty- 
eight  feet,  but  the  w!,ole  descent  here  is  about  forty  fei^l. 
The  water  is  so  divided  in  the  channels  at  the  Falls,  and  the 
islands  are  so  situated,  that  nearly  all  of  the  water  may  be 
rendered  available,  at  a  very  small  expense,  when  it  shall  be 
needed.  Nature  rarely  st  any  one  point  concentrates  so  many 
advantages  for  the  erection  and  support  of  a  great  commercial 
and  manufacturing  city,  as  are  to  be  found  here.  There  ia  an 
abundance  of  water  to  propel  the  machinery,  atone  and  timber 
convenient  to  erect  the  necessary  buildinn,  an  extensive  coun* 
try  of  the  best  farming  lands  in  the  world  to  support  the  towns 
by  their  trade,  and  a  tine  navigable  river  to  bring  the  raw  ma 
terial  to  the  manufactories,  and  when  manufactured  to  carry 
the  surplus  to  tiie  Pacific,  whence  it  can  easily  be  taken  to  the 
best  markets  the  world  aflbrds.  At  this  place,  the  buainess  of 
the  upper  Willamette  will  concentrate,  for  many  yeara  at  least. 
Tide  water  reaches  to  the  mouth  of  the  Olaekamis,  which  is 
within  two  miles  of  the  Falls.  Here  there  is  a  considerable 
ripple  in  the  river,  whirh  can  easily  be  removed  by  confining 
the  Claekamis  to  its  original  bed  upon  the  eastern  side  of  the 
island.  As  it  is,  there  are  four  feet  of  water  over  the  bar,  and 
not  so  rapid  as  to  prevent  the  ascent  of  steamboats  to  the  F&ll<i. 
Vessels  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  ton*  burthen  beve  aaeended 
within  two  miles  of  the  repids;  \  ut,  from  the  orookednesa  of 
the  streem  and  the  difficulty  ir^  tceking  so  frequently,  thev 
generally  receive  and  discharge  their  cargoes  at  Portland, 
twelve  miles  below. 

Traveling  up  the  river,  five  milee  from  the  Falls,  bring*  u* 
to  Ro<ik  lalflnd.  Here  is  said  to  be  a  serious  obstruction  to  tha 
navii^tion  of  the  river.  The  difficulty  eon*i*t*  in  there-being 
sever^  peak*  of  rock*  *o  elevated,  as  to  be  near  the  eurfaee  of 
the  water  in  a  low  stage  $  and  as  the  ehanneb  between  them 
are  very  narrow,  and  :he  water  quite  rapid,  boat*  are  liable  to 
run  on  to  them.  '  But  the  roci;  can  be  renoved  at  an  ineon- 
sidmbl*  Axpeose.    It  is  flfteea  mUes  above  the  Fall*  to  ^e 


! 


i'JiisiMliwiiiisnwi 


t» 


jouiu«AL  or  TiiAvmLa  ovsa 


fintmfel  b»r,  •!  which  pl»c«.  in  low  wttor,  ther.  u  but  thr.* 
fe«t  In  ihe  chinnel.  _^       .,      ,  ,      .  .      . ., 

In  triveling  up  the  tivm  »boul  fifty  mUM,  I  found,  in  wJdl- 
tion  10  ihe  ob»lructionit  nwned.  four  olh«r  |T«»el  b«rt,  ov« 
.oma  of  wim-h  then,  were  only  thirty  i^''"  «' '^'^^  J^ 
goinff  the  noxiie»«nlyfi»e  mil.-.  I  ippro.oh«  th«  "'"••*•'»» 
timi  tnd  found  it  to  ha*.  •  deep  clmnnel  .nd  •inooth  r urrenU 
P.rwn^  who  hid  n.vifnled  the  riv.r  coniid«r.bly  furdier  up. 
in  ihe.r  twffic  with  ih?  Inditnt.  informed  mt  thtl  it  contuiued 
equally  fatourable  fo.  navigation.  From  what  I  .aw  and 
learned  of  intelligeni  p..rio.i..  I  thu.k  the  •«>»»•' "'•"/J?"*,™* 
boat*  could  for  moat  pari  of  the  year  ascend  two  hundred  miles 

''Trom'the'cVlumbiji  to  Upper  California,  io  a  mounlainoua 
bem  known  aa  the  Coael  range.  Spurs  of  U.is  "nge  approach 
nearly  to  tl..  mouili  of  the  Willameite.  B*'*^"  ^^^l/JT'i 
and  the  river,  tliere  U  but  a  small  portion  of  the  soil  well 
xiapled  to  agricuUuire.  The  higher  range  to  Uie  weal  of  the 
FalU  affords  a  scope  of  fifty  milt-s,  that  *"»>  the  exception  of 
a  few  openings,  and  Quality  Plains,  u  tolerably  broken,  gene- 
rMyZl  Jbired.  finely  watered,  with  many  exceUent  e.tua. 
tioiw  for  farm. ;  buH  not  so  well  calculated,  as  soma  other  parls, 
for  dense  seltUmeBits.  , 

Quality  Plains  are  distant  twenty-five  mile.  *••»  f^" 
Oregon  city;  tliey  ar.  about  twenty-five  ""«;»  W'"*; 
riteroatdy  rolling  prairie  and  U.nber.  surrounded  by  heavy 
g^Xlt  fir..l.ny  of  which  ri«,  to  the  f.^lji  of  two  hunj 
Ld  and  fifty  faat.    These  plain,  are  all  clainwl,  "»H«1' •" 
mo.dv  improTwl.    They  are  well  watered  by  many  small 
Sr«m.Sl.at«t.  ih'e  two  fork,  of  Quality  river  whjch 
unit,  new  the  wuth-east  part  of  Uie  plains,  and  runs  an  aMtwly 
Turla^Trongh  narrow  bottom.,  well  «.ppU«l  with  Umb«  for 
~orV  han  tSenty  miles,  where  it  di«;l«rges  »"  ^*»««"  ;«to 
S;  W  llamette.  tWo  miles  above  Oregon  city.    Tho  pnnciijJ 
part  of  tha  w.t.r  that  flow,  in  Quality  river  dascands  from  the 
Coast  lUnga.    Thi.  stream,  lik.  moat  olhars  in  »h«»  'fT*"' 
hi  MvWWl.  and  rapid.,  that  famish  tery  destnjta  .1^ 
kf  th.  prapeUlng  of  mUinery  t  but  if  aver  P'o6f  M.  for 
navigation,  WUl  hiv.  to  ba  improved  by  e«»«l»  •"^.^^"S 
naSi  it.  fills »  whieh  en  easily  be  dona,  wh»n  th.  com. 
marc,  of  th.  country  wiU  jusUfy  the  «P««>«'-  .  ^.j. 

From  thii  «mm.  wd  batwaan  the  CoMt  Ruga  ««  Wdto^ 
JS  wTto  tha  .outh,  to  the  ShahaUm  trilay.  whirii  eon- 


Mm 


ihere  u  but  thrM 

I  found,  in  Midi* 
iravel  ban,  ov«f 
!!•  of  water.  In 
I  the  river  Mtreral 
1  eniooih  current, 
inbiy  furilier  up, 

that  it  continued 
what  I  nw  and 
ler  olaaa  of  ateam* 
wo  hundred  milee 

ia  a  mounlainoua 
ia  range  approach 
iween  iheee  epura 
of  the  aoil  well 
to  tlie  weat  of  the 
I  the  exception  of 
kbly  broken,  gene- 
ny  excellent  aitua* 
I  aoroe  other  parla, 

mile*  weat  from 
ilea  in  length,  art 
vunded  by  heavy 
leiglil  of  two  hun« 
aimed,  aettled.  and 
d  by  many  amall 
uality  river,  which 
mdrooaaneaaterly 
ied  with  timber  for 
[ea  iu  watera  into 
ty.    Th»J  principal 

daaoenda  from  the 
lera  in  that  region, 
rery  deairable  aitae 
ever  profitable  for 
canala  aitd  lockage 
oe,  when  the  eouk* 
m. 

It  lUogt  and  WUlir 
vaUey,  whkh  eom* 


THE  ROOKY  MOUNTAfNI.  f§ 

mencea  at  the  low  paaa  of  Quality  Plaina.  ia  a  tract  of  about 
twenty  by  thirty  milea  in  exmnt,  of  roUing  fertile  landa,  alter- 
nately fern  openinga  anil  timber  grovea.  .  ,  , 
From  the  Coa«t  Ranne  to  the  WillaroBlle  there  la  a  belt  of 
five  or  ai  i  milea  in  width,  which  near  the  rivrr  ia  covered 
thinly  with  yellow  pinee;  but  nearer  the  mounum  it  ia  b«tier 
timbered,  and  well  watarwl  from  mountain  rlvuUu ;  rooeUy  a 
rich  atjd  looie  aoil,  coropoaed  chiefly  of  yellow  aand.  loem  and 
clay.  Bui  little  of  line  tract  ia  claiin««l  by  the  emigranu,  aa 
tli«y  uaually  profRr  the  prairie  country  aSove. 

The  ShHhalain  ia  a  amall  atream.  which  haa  iM  origin  in 
the  Coaat  Range,  mna  eaalwardly  and  emptiea  into  the  Willa. 
mette,  twenty  milee  above  Oregon  city.  Thie  U  akirUd  with 
good  prairiea  of  five  or  aix  milea  in  width,  near  the  mounlainat 
but  towarda  iu  momli  the  vulley  ie  covered  with  timber  and 
fern«     The  beat  portion  ia  claimed. 

Eleven  milea  further  up.  the  Willamette  reoeivea  the  watera 
of  the  Yam-hill.  At  the  mouth  it  ia  about  twenty  five  yarde 
in  width,  quite  deep,  and  will  bear  upon  iU  boeom  crafte  of 
Urge  burthen  for  ten  milea,  to  the  falla. 

Thia  atream  haa  two  principal  branehea  ;  the  one  riaing  in 
the  Coaat  Range,  rune  for  twenty  milee  in  a  aouih-eaaterly  direo- 
tion,  through  a  beautiful  and  fertile  valley  of  twelve  miloa  in 
width,  handaomely  covered  with  grovee  of  while  oak,  and  other 
timber;  which  ia  interaeoted  with  numeroua  apring  branehea, 
the  banka  of  which  are  lined  with  timber,  leaving  in  aome  placet 
fine  bottom  prairiee,  covered  with  a  rich  award  of  graafc     Be- 
tween thia  fork  and  the  Shabalam  ia  a  range  of  hiUe  nfWjHpnf 
about  two  milea  in  width,  extending  from  a  p«rt  of  the  Coaat 
Range,  to  within  three  milea  of  the  Willamette.    They  are  of 
ateep  aaoent,  aome  of  them  riaing  to  five  or  aix  hundred  feet  in 
height,  well  covered  vriihgraaa,andfrom  their  aidea  laauenumer. 
oua  apring  rivulela,  which  near  their  origin  are  lined  with  fir 
treea;  thence  pasaiiif  through  grovee  of  white  oak,  alder  and 
willow,  to  the  bottom  lande,  which  in  eroaaing  aome  of  them  du. 
appear,  and  othera  after  joining  together,  eontinoe  their  eouraee 
until  they  unite  with  the  Shahahim  and  Yani*hill.   The  graaaei 
on  theae  hille  are  a  epeciea  of  nA  clot er,  that  grow*  in  the  eum- 
mer  aeaaon  shout  one  foot  high,  and  e  fine  graae,  which  after 
the  dover  diaappeera,  keep  them  otad  in  green  luriM  the  win- 
ter.    Thu4  they  fomiah  a  perpetual  aapply  of  food  for  oattJi 
the  whole  ye«r.    The  8«41  upon  theae  hUie  t>  •  mixture  of  dav 
and  lovB,  of  e  reddiah  color,  end  in  the  bottoma  it  ii  •  iiek 


i 


>iii— I 


;m;sNAi.  or  travkiji  ovkji 


It 


II , 

ii  • 


mixture  of  lo«m  iin<l  muok.  Howe? er,  ihert  •«  iome  of  »h« 
hull  noiMwIm  Mndy,  ind  oorMtonally  interap«rMd  wilh  ttoaf 
dIacci. 

From  th«  lourra  of  ihii  branoh  of  the  Yam-hill,  (which  in 
th«  country  i»  '••il««l  the  North  Fork,)  |«»i««i  th«  tr«c«».  «!oMf 
which  th«  p«opl«  on  I'laUop  pltiti*  tlri««  their  cattin  a  diatnnc« 
of  about  forty  milaa,  when  they  r«ai;h  th«  eoaai,  f.^Mn  nidM 
■outh  of  Cape  liOokout. 

Th«  aouth  fork  of  Yam-hill  haa  iu  aourca  in  the  Cojat 
Kangr ;  where  it  emerfrM  from  the  niounuina,  for  die  flrat  ten 
milea,  iu  banka  art<  well  aupplied  with  lat^e  fir  ireea,  aa  are 
ita  aeveral  tributarieai  ita  banka  arc  fenerally  ateep,  bearing 
Iha  appearanca  of  having  waahed  mil  a  eh^nnei  from  Hfloen  to 
iweniy  feet  in  depth.  It  runa  an  eaatem  coorne  for  about  ten 
niil#i,  then  north-Mat  (or  aome  inilea.  and  finally  take*  a 
iiorihern  direciion.  until  it  connaota  wiih  the  North  fork,  near 
the  Falla,  after  having  flowed  a  diatanca  of  about  twenty-Ave 

inilee. 

i'ha  valley  watered  by  thia  atream  ia  about  Al\een  milea 
wide,  aftflr  the  atream  emerifM  from  the  heacy  growth  of  flra 
already  noUeed ;  for  there  are  fira,  more  or  lea*,  ita  whole  length. 
From  the  w«t«r  couraea,  upon  an  averajfe  of  a  little  over  one 
fourth  of  a  mile,  the  valley  ia  fine  prairie  lund.  aoil  light  and 
rich,  oceaaionally  Interaperaed  with  fine  grovee,  and  well 
adapted  to  agricultural  purpoaea.  It  ia  well  covered  with  graaa, 
aa  ia  every  poHion  of  the  country  that  haa  oaken  grovea,  and 
the  lower  bottoma  yield  an  sbnndant  anpply  of  the  Camat,  ■ 
tuberoua  rooted  plant,  ahaped  aomething  like  an  onion,  which 
it  reaemblea  in  appearance.  It  ia  devoured  greedily  by  hoge, 
and  affnrda  very  good  nniriment.  The  Indiana  make  much  uae 
of  it  ae  an  article  of  food.  Between  theae  atreama  and  within  aix 
milea  of  their  junction,  oommencea  the  high  landa  of  the  Coaat 
Range;  the  firat  phitflmi  ia  about  ten  milea  wide,  and  wall 
covered  with  graaa.  The  aecond  plateau,  for  a  few  milee  ia 
fern  openinge,  with  an  oeeaaional  grove  of  timber ;  after  thie 
wealward  to  the  ooeat  the  country  ia  heavilv  timbered  with 
fira,  pine,  and  oceaaionally  cedar,  hemlock,  balaam,  and  nearlf 
apeciea  of  the  evergrreen  timber.    The  atreama  laat  de- 


all 

aortbed 

moantaina. 


near  the 
Yeia- 


fUmiah  good  aitea  for  hydraulie  purpoaea,  nei 

ina.     A  conaidenble  portion  of  the  valley  of  the 

hiU  ia  not  only  claimed,  but  eettled,  and  finelv  improved 
Leaving  the  Yam-hill  and  aaeeodinf  the  Willamette  tw 
if  roilfli,  we  raaeh  die  roootb  of  the  RIokerall,  e  eMrai 


.L 


tm^ixsi 


n.n 


•r«  art  come  of  lh« 
eraparMil  willi  iloajT 

Yam-hill,  (which  in 
••«•  ih«  \ncn,  alonf 
heir  cattlfl  ■  diatMno* 
«  eoaal,  ufuimn  ntilM 

KMirffl  in  th«  CoMt 
tains,  for  the  flrst  ten 
iak|[«  flr  ireea,  ■•  aro 
i«rnlly  alaep,  bearing 
lAnnei  from  AAoen  to 
conrM  for  aiwut  ten 
and  finnliy  take*  a 
the  NorOi  forli,  near 
of  about  twcnty-Ava 

I  about  AHeen  mile* 
hcaxy  gmwih  nf  flrs 
leM,  ita  whole  length, 
re  nf  a  little  oter  one 
ie  luntl.  aoil  light  and 
ne  grovea,  and  well 
>ll  covered  with  graae, 
aa  oaken  graves,  and 
)ply  of  the  Cmnaa,  m 
like  an  onion,  which 
red  greedily  by  hogs, 
dians  make  much  use 
ftreama  and  within  aix 
gh  landa  of  the  Coast 
iiiles  wide,  and  well 
lU.  for  a  few  miles  is 
of  timber ;  afker  this 
leavilT  timbered  with 
ik,  baiaam,  and  nsarlf 
rhe  streams  lut  &i- 
R  purposes,  near  ths 
he  valley  of  the  Yam- 
finelv  improved, 
lie  WilUmmie  twtatjr- 
e  RioksraU,  «  itrwai 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


// 


^ 


1.0 


i.j 


1.25 


1.4 


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Photographic 

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Corporation 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Caoudian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  canadien  ie  microreproductions  historlques 


THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS.  ffi 

which  hat  in  •onree  in  the  mme  range  ■•  the  Y«ra-hUl ;  for 
the  firit  ten  mile*  it  runs  rapidly  over  a  pebbly  bed,  and  froin 
thence  to  the  mouth  ha«  a  deep  channel,  worn  m  a  rich  soil, 
with  timbered  banke.    It  flowe  in  an  easterly  ^;OVTMhmn  the 
raountaina  eighteen  milea,  and  unites  with  ihe  V/illamette. 
The  talley  through  which  this  stream  flows  resembles  that 
described  as  watered  by  the  Yam-hill ;  perhaps  the  soil  is  a 
litde  richer.    It  is  nearly  all  claimed,  and  will  soon  be  well 
sfltded.    Upon  this  stream  there  is  erected  a  grist  mill,  and 
there  was  a  saw  mill,  but  the  freshets  washed  it  *w«y  »»» 
sprinff.     Fi»e  miles  shore  Yam-hill  commence  a  range  of  hills 
that  ?xtend  south  to  the  RickeraU,  simUar  to  those  between 
Shahakm  and  Yam-hill.    These  hills  vary  from  tme  to  four 
miles  in  width,  leaving  a  bottom  about  aix  miles  wide  to  skirt 
the  Waiaroette,  which  is  of  good  soil,  well  watered  and  tim- 
bereu.     Upon  the  slope*  of  these  hills  are  several  thousands 
of  acres  of  white  oak,  from  six  to  twenty  feet  in  height, 
some  of  them  of  large  diameter  and  all  with  large  and  bushy 
tops:  the  ground  bwing  covered  with  grasp,  at  a  distance  they 
look  like  old  orchards.     The  timber  of  these  trees  is  very 
solid,  and  promises  great  durability.    The  yaUey  between  die 
Yam-hiU  and  Riekerall  is  called  Uie  Applegate  setdement; 
diere  are  diree  brothers  of  die  Applejjates,  they  have  fine 
farms,  with  good  herds  of  fiit  And  thrifty  cattle.    The  Yam- 
hiU  plain*  is  called  die  Hemerey  settlement,  from  a  fami  y  of 
this  name  diere  tetded.    Upon  die  Riekerall  are  die  GilUmt, 
Fords  and  Shaw*,  all  doing  well.    The  Gays  and  Madieney* 
are  setded  upon  the  bottom  of  the  Willamette,  between  Yam- 
hill and  Riekerall.  .,.,,.       u. 
Twelve  mile*  above  die  Riekerall,  empties  the  Laeky-make 
into  die  Willamette;  it  head*  in  die  *ame  range  a*  die  Yam- 
hUl,  wid,  like  it,  ha*  two  prineiptlbranche*,  of  about  the  same 
length,  depdi  and  w^di,  and  pease*  thioogh  an  excellent  val- 
ley  of  land,  widi  die  suae  diverside*  and  excellent  qualifie* 
for  farming  whieh  eie  attributed  to  the  Yannhill  va  ley— die 
Umbef  being  mow  df  otk  and  le**  of  fir.    Upon  dii*  "tream 
several  claim*  are  entered,  and  diere  ia  e  fine  opening  for 
odier*  who  may  dertf*  to  Bctde  diere. 

Mome  river  join*  the  Waiamette  •boot  dilrty-five  nde* 
above  die  Lnekv-make.  It  ha*  it*  origin  In  die  Goa*t  range, 
has  two  prlndMl  branehe*,  i»hleh  unite  near  the  moontMn*, 
nme*  tnimil**over  m  pebbly  bottom,  «nd  dten  become*  more 
Snggbh to ita moudi.  Thii,liktdieadMritmmiid*iflrib«d/ 


m^ 


_^  L 


g^  JOURNiOi  OF  TRAVELS  OVER 

htf  timber  uoon  iu  borden,  but  leu  than  lome }  good  country, 
fine  protpeciB,  and  but  few  claima  made. 

Between  the  Lucky-muke  and  Mouae  river  there  ie  «  range 
of  hill.,  a.  between  other  •Iream. ;  but  nt  one  P>»»5^»  'P"  «[ 
the  Coaat  r«nge  approaches  within  ten  mdea  of  the  Wdlameltej 
ftom  thU  iaaue  many  »mall  .tream.  wh.<.h  run  down  .t,. ad 
hroush  the  fine  plaine  to  the  Luckymuke  upon  the  one  aide, 
and  S  Mouae  river  on  the  other.    Thia  U  .beautiful  region; 
from  he  bottom  can  be  aeen.  at  different  point.,  .even  .now. 
jTr^^  peak,  of  the  C..c«le  range.    The  C"c«le  u  wjthm 
view  for  agreatdUuince.  to  the  north  and  wuth;  which,  to- 
gether with  the  beautiful  acenery  In  the  valley,  render,  it  a 
picturesque  place.     Thrif.y  grove,  of  fir  «»d  ?»^  "•  J«  Jj 
aeen  in  every  direction ;  the  earth  i.  carpeted  with  »  covering 
orfuxuriant  gra...  and  fertiliied  by  .tream.  of  clear  running 
rivS,^)mf  of  which  .ink  down  «id  other.  ?«»«  their 
courw  above  ground  to  the  .iver.     Between  the  orU  of  Mouee 
river  approache.  a  part  of  the  Cawade,  but  it   e^vee  a  valley 
up  each^branch  about  one  mile  in  widjh,  the  «,.l  of  which  » 
rich  and  good  prairie  for  .everd  mile,  above  *•  J««- 
The  mounuin  aide,  are  covered  very  »)~''Jy '"J' J' ""J,*^'; 
Thue  theee  beauUfol  vallay.  offer  great  induwmento  to  tho.e 
iZ  w..h  to  have  cUim.  of  good  land.  :yi'»V^'>V 8'«»"J' £! 
paaturage  and  timber  clo.e  at  hand.    There  •»«»«•«" 
l^ado  «  yet  above  the  fork..    The-  .iwem.  f«">\«h  «»«»  ™  J 

t«.  for  ei«h  of  the  firrt  .ix  mUee.  and  aro  well  filUd  w.th 

*Trom  the  fork,  of  thi.  .tream  etarj-  •  trdlr  (or  ^'jT^ 
towi.)  which  lead,  to  the  fall,  of  the  Al.a.  a  .tmm  that  hnde 
Srenty  mUe.  to  the  wuth  of  theee  fork.;  th.  tr«l  lewi.  a 
^^SxyZne  for  fi(UM«  mUe.  to  the  FalU ;  Jon.  thence  to 
thecoait  it  i.  twenty^me  mU^,  From  ^•/"^.»^j;" 
run.  in  a  we.terly  dinition.  An  old  Indi«»  told  me  that  there 
WMiomeeiceUentUnd  in  tl«.  vaUey, aBdOiat  *•"*««" 
be  but  Utde  diffieulty  in  oonetrocUng  a  good  »»«  down  lU 
Salmon  and  other  fiah  art  in  great  abondanee  in  thie  .trewa. 

"^^Kx  m*ii?llb;)re  Mouw  riw  i.  the  nwath  •' I|«3[J«; 
Batht  thi^  Uke  aU  other  .trewM  that  enter  the  W«lUmette 
Juon  tlTwatem  eide,  head,  in  the.eoMtranff.  iad  >ft«r 
b^ing  ill  way  through  the  epure  to «»»  JP^m  b«low,  PMMe 
S»oi?«Talltf  of  good  lioil.  It  hM  «&tp  benki,  l»  mow 
S!!3htoi!Xo.i»wSthMthQW  tb.t  join  it  lower  down. 


t*-.^_ 


tR 

me ;  good  countrji 

trer  there  is  «  range 
in«  pltca  a  epur  of 
I  of  the  WilUmettei 
I  run  down  it,  aad 
upon  the  one  lidct 
I  a  beautiful  region ; 
;>ointa,  aeven  anow- 
I  Cascade  ia  within 
1  aouth;  which,  to- 
valley,  renden  it  a 
and  oak  are  to  be 
led  with  a  covering 
as  of  clear  running 
others  pursue  their 
a  the  forks  of  Mouse 
at  it  leaves  a  valley 
he  soil  of  which  is 
above  the  junelian. 
ivily  with  fir  timber, 
aduevments  to  those 
rith  fine  grounds  for 
'here  are  no  dsims 
MS  famish  good  mill 
we  well  filUd  with 

itnilr(or  half-made 
,  a  stream  that  heads 
u;  the  trail  leads  a 
^alls ;  from  thence  to 
1  the  Falls  the  river 
ID  told  me  that  Uiere 
md  that  there  would 
good  road  down  it. 
danea  in  this  stream* 

BOttth  of  Long  Tom 
enter  the  Wiflamette 
oast  rang*,  snd  after 
iDliioflbelow,pas«ee 
deep  banki«  is  man 
tjoia  it  lower  down. 


THE  BOCry  MOUMAiNS.  f^ 

ia  fillod  with  dirty  water,  has  a  miry  bottom,  slm..ed  upon  its 
margin  witli  Umber,  and  in  siae  is  iomething  larger  than  the 

Yam-hill.  .  ,    , 

Bo  far,  I  have  deacribed  the  valley  from  personal  obaerva- 
tion  in  that  direction;   but  I  was  informed  bv  those  who  had 
sood  opportunities  for  obtaining  correct  mformation,  that  it 
Ltre  off  more  easterly,  and  that  it  waa  for  eighty  miles  further 
up  as  well  watered,  timbered,  and  of  as  luxuriant  aoil,  as  that 
which  I  have  deacribed.    It  may  be  proper  here  to  remark, 
that  the  further  the  valley  U  ascended  the  oak  timber'  becomes 
more  abundant,  and  the  fir  in  a  corresponding  ratio  dec»e-«ee. 
Havinff  deacribed  the  country  for  more  than  one  hundred 
milea  upon  the  western  aide  ol  h.  WilUmelte.  we  will  return 
to  the  Falls  and  menUon  a  few  facts  respectinf  the  eastern  bank. 
Upon  this  bank,  for  ten  miles  to  the  aoulh  of  Oregon  ciiy, 
continue  fern  openings,  to  a  smaU  alream  called  Pole  Alley, 
which  ia  skirted  with  beautiful  prairie  bottoms  of  from  two  to 
eiiht  milei  in  length  and  from  one  to  two  miles  wide;  these, 
with  alternate  grovea  of  fir,  consUtute  the  principal  charac- 
terisfics  of  Pole  Alley  valley.    It  is  not  more  than  half  a  mile 
from  the  mouth  of  Pole  Alley,  farther  to  the  south,  where 
Pudding  river  ombogues  into  the  Willamette;  it  is  twenty-five 
yards  in  width  at  the  mouth.    The  valley  up  this  river  to  the 
Cascade  mountains,  where  it  rises,  is  alternately  fine  praine 
and  timber  lands,  with  occaaional  fern  openings.    Some  of  the 
prairiee  are  claimed  by  the  recent  emigranta.     It  is  finely 
clothed  in  grass,  and  up  tlie  river  aoine  distance  there  are 
valuable  miU  aites;  the  water  u  clear,  and  weU  slocked  with 
fiah.    From  Pudding  river  further  aouth,  there  are  fern  open- 
ings, which  are  succeeded  by  grassy  prairies,  which  give  place 
tofine  groves  of  fir,  but  aparsely  intermingled  wtth  cedar. 

Eiffht  miles  from  Podding  river  is  a  village  called  Butes. 
It  wM  laid  out  by  Messrs.  Abemathy  and  Beera.  There  were 
bat  a  few  cabins  in  it  when  I  left.  The  propnetow  had. 
sracted  a  warehouse  to  store  the  wheat  they  might  purchasa 
of  the  eettlera  back,  who  should  find  it  w)nvenwnt  to  seU  their 
etope  at  this  point  At  this  place  are  some  conical  hills,  caliea 
Butae.  whkh  rise  to  a  considerable  height;  the  sides  and  tops 
of  them  ar«  elothed  with  tall  fir  trees,  which  can  be  seen  from 
tba  valley  above  for  sixty  miles.  Immediately  at^his  vdlwe 
in  a  forn  opMiins,  coveried  with  an  undergrowth  of  haale,  for 
tiiiM^owrtbt  of  a  mito  back,  when  it  meigee  into  an  extensuo 
•ad  fiHrUlo  pnlrit.    ■  v;.^;.,,  ■;,;.-<;,. 


•vmaH 


M 


JOUKNAL  OF  TRAVELS  OVER 


South  of  Butat  three  milei  n  the  flllage  of  Shampoic. 
It  wM  laid  out  by  a  mounuineer,  of  the  iwme  of  Newell, 
formerly  a  clerk  o»  the  Hudson'a  Bay  Company.     It  conlaine 
a  few  old  ahabby  bnildinga,  and  a  warehooae  owned  by  the 
company,  where  they  receife  the  wheat  of  the  eettlwe  of  the 
country  from  thence  to  the  Oaaeade  mountaina.    Thia  la  an 
extenaive  plain,  extendini  from  Padd'ng  river  up  the  Willap 
mette  to  the  old  Methodist  miaeion  ground,  which  la  diatant 
thirty  mllea  from  the  mouth  of  Pudding  river.    The  aoU  for 
thia  diatance,  and  for  two  milea    n  width,  ia  aimiUr  to  that 
deacribed  immediately  at  Butea.     Back  of  thia  for  twenty-five 
or  thirty  milea  ia  a  very  handaome  eountr>-,  moatly  praine,  and 
fine  timber,  well  watered,  with  occaaionally  a  hill— the  whole 
covered  with  a  aoil  quite  invilintf  to  the  apicuUuriat,  with  an 
abundance  of  paaturage  for  catUe.     This  ia  called  the  Freiich 
aetUement,  and  is  one  of  the  oldeat  in  the  valley.    The  Cathoj 
lica  have  here  a  mission,  schools,  a  grist  and  saw  mill,  and 
aeverai  mechanica ;  they  have  also  several  teaohera  Jirong  the 
Indiana,  and  it  ia  said  that  they  have  done  much  for  the  Im- 
provement of  these  aborigines.     The  inhabitants  are  mosUy 
of  what  are  called  French  Canadians,  and  were  formeriy  en- 
gaged in  the  service  of  the  Hudaon  Bay  Company,  but  have 
now  quit  it,  made  claims,  and  gone  to  farming.    They  have 
very  orettv  oitjharde  of  apple  trees,  and  some    peach  trees. 
Their' wives  are  naUves  of  the  country.    Many  of  them  are 
raising  families  that,  when  educated,  will  be  eprightly.  ••  mey 
are  naturally  active  and  hurdy,  and  appear  very  friendly  and 
hospitable.    But  few  of  them  speak  the  Engluih  language 
fluently;    they  mostly  talk   French   and  Chinook  j«r|on. 
They  cultivate  hot  little  land,  but  that  litde  is  well  done,  and 
the  rich  aoil  well  repaya  them  for  the  Ubor  expended  upon  it. 
I  could  not  satisfactorily  ascertain  the  population  of  the  aetUe- 
ment, which  I  much  regretted. 

The  old  Melhodiat  mission  is  nearly  opposite  to  what  is 
now  called  Matheny'a  Ferry.  It  was  ropotied  to  me  to  hw* 
been  one  of  the  first  missiona  occupied  in  the  vrtley,  but  nas 
been  abandoned  on  account  yf  the  overflowing  of  tfie  mer. 
It  consists  of  only  several  dilapidated  buildings,  rhs  aotl  li 
gravelly,  inclined  to  barren,  with  a  grove  of  pines  near  by. 

This  place  for  a  number  of  yeara  waa  under  the  sopenntstt 
dance  of  the  Rev.  Jason  Lee.    It  is  here  that  the  remains  of 
bis  wife  sra  interred;  a  tombstone  marks  her  resUflg  pises,' 
which  ioforms  the  ptsser  by  that  she  was  til*  fast  ftVm  w*» 


%»■!< 


ER 

llage  of  Shampnie. 
e  nam*  of  NewalU 
npany.  It  oontaiM 
toa*  owned  by  tht 
f  th«  aettlera  of  Ui* 
ntaina.  Thia  i»  an 
rirer  up  (he  Willa* 
id,  which  ia  dielant 
iver.  The  aoil  for 
h,  ia  aimiUr  to  that 

thie  for  twenty-five 
',  moatly  prairie,  and 
ly  a  hill — the  whole 
l^iculturiet,  with  an 
ia  called  the  French 
rallev.  TheCatho* 
;  and  aaw  mill,  and 
1  teaohera  airung  the 
ne  n>uch  for  the  Im- 
habitanta  are  moatly 
d  were  formerly  en* 
Company,  bnt  have 
irming.    They  have 

aome    peaeh  treea. 

Many  of  them  are 
be  sprightly,  a*  they 
lar  very  friendly  and 
le  Engliah  language 
id  Chinook  jargon, 
tie  ia  well  done,  and 
or  expended  upon  it 
;>ulation  of  the  settle- 

opposite  to  what  is 
ipoiied  to  me  to  hare 
in  the  vdley,  but  has 
flowing  of  the  river. 
liMings.  The  soil  ii 
rofpinee  nearby, 
under  the  aopennten 
0  that  the  remains  of 
ka  her  resUns  places 
M  the  tot  f^UM  wo* 


THE  ROOKY  MOUNTAlNt.  §f 

man  that  waa  buried  in  Oregon  Territory,— together  with  the 
place  of  her  naiiviiy,  marringe,  &e. 

The  unfortunate  location  of  the  miasion,  and  the  ciroum- 
auneea  under  which  Mra.  Lee  died,  no  doubt  have  had  great 
influence  in  creating  Uiat  unfavorable  impresaion  of  the  coun- 
Uy  in  the  mind  of  Mr.  Lse,  which  he  has  expreaaed  in  some 
or  his  letters.  The  country  surrounding  the  mission  is  cov- 
ered mostly  with  scrubby  oak  and  pine  Uees. 

From  the  miaaion  t'lie  road  proceeda  up  the  valley,  alter- 
nately through  grovee  of  oak  and  pine,  fern  plaine,  and  graaay 
prairies,  in  which  are  aeveral  (arms,  with  convenient  buildinga. 
Ailer  purauing  thia  route  about  ten  miles,  we  come  to  an  im- 
provement of  aoveral  hundred  acres,  anrrounded  with  amall 
groves  of  oak.     Here  the  soil  is  quite  gravellyi  and  not  very 

rich.  .,„... 

Nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Rickerall  is  thn  Methodist 
Institute,which  waa  located  at  this  place  when  it  waa  ascertained 
that  tlie  Willamette  would  overflow  iu  bank  at  the  old  miasion. 
My  opinion  is,  that  the  location  ia  a  good  one,  beinc  in  a  high 
and  healthy  neighborhood,  and  nearly  central  of  what  will  be 
the  principal  population  of  the  valley  for  long  yeara  to  come. 

The  course  of  instruction  there  given  is  quite  respectable, 
and  would  compare  well  with  many  of  those  located  in  the 
old  and  populous  settlements  of  the  States.  This  school  is 
unconnected  with  any  miaaion.  When  the  missionary  board 
roneluded  to  abandon  <that  field  of  labor,  the  Inatitute  was 
bought  by  the  Methodists  of  Oregon ;  hence  it  continued  un- 
der its  dd  name.  The  price  of  tuition  Is  low,  and  the  meaiM 
of  receiving  an  education  at  thia  place  ia  within  the  power  of 
those  who  have  but  a  small  amount  to  expend  in  its  atuin- 
ment. 

For  the  first  five  milee  from  the  river  towards  the  Cas- 
cade range,  the  soil  is  gravelly :  it  is  then  a  sandy  loun  to  th« 
foot  of  the  monntain,  and  is  genenlly  an  open  plain.  The 
valley  npon  the  east  side  of  the  river  at  this  plaoe,  is  about 
twea'.y*Bve  miles  in  width.  It  is  proper,  however,  to  remark, 
that  there  are  oeeasional  groves  of  timber  interspersing  the 
pmifie,  and  in  some  places  they  reach  within  a  short  distance 
of  the  river.  In  this  last  described  tract,  th«nre  are  several  va- 
rietiee  of  soil,  with  prairie,  timber,  oplaad,  boUom,  and  hill 
side ;  the  whole  U  well  watered.  At  the  Institute  there  reside 
about  fifteen  families,  and  near  by  several  claims  are  taken, 
and  improvemenu  commenced.  The  Methodist  nissiooariea 
Q 


i 


\ 


1 


-** 


H  JOURNAL  or  TKAVrxa  OVE« 

hk  .1  trected  a  «aw  and  grwt  milh  th""  ""i""  >»««'  '«'J' " 
WM  all  the  properly  of  ihe  iniwiom  in  lh«  valley,  by  Mr. 
Gerrv.  who  waa  aent  out  to  <lo«e  the  roiwionary  rooiiera  in 
that  woa;  Ihey  are  now  o^ned  by  reaidcnt  oitizena,  and  in 
tucceaaful  operation.     At  Una  place  a  town  la  laid  oui. 

8i&  milea  above  iha  Inalitute  commencea  a  range  ol  oati 
hilla.  which  continue  about  twelve  milea  in  a  aouih-eaalcrn 
direction  along  the  river,  where  they  connect  by  a  low  paa. 
with  the  Ca«:.de  Range.  From  thia  place,  at  the  lower  bench 
oJ-  the  Caacade,  commencea  another  range  of  hjUa,  runnii.g 
aoulh-weatwardly,  which  continue  about  twenty  nnilea  in  lengih, 
10  ihe  mouth  of  the  Santaum  river,  which  join,  the  W.lla. 
mcu«  twenty  milea  by  land  ahove  the  4natitute.  Thia  la  a 
bold  and  rapid  elream,  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yarda 
in  width  ;  for  a  considerable  portion  of  iU  lenfin,  li  hae  n 
pebbly  bottom,  and  banka  covered  with  fir  ^..r'  white  cedar 
Ueea  of  the  beet  quality.  .  -u  i 

The  Santa  Anna  haa  four  principal  branchea,  with  aeveral 
•mall  tribuuriea.  aU  lined  with  timber,  leaving  a  .trip  of  beau- 
tiful  prairie  land  between  each,  of  from  one-half  to  four  milea 
in  width.  The  two  northern  branchea  rue  in  Mount  Jefler* 
■on,  the  firat  running  nearly  weat  from  i"  •'«'""» J*"'"" 
leavea  the  mounUin.  when  it  inclinea  to  the  aoulh  for  a  few 
milea,  where  it  receivea  another  branch;  from  ihia  junction 
•bout  eight  milea,  it  ia  Joined  by  a  alream  that  riaea  in  the 
Caacad*IUn«e,  aouth  of  Mount  JeflTeraon.  Tan  ««}«  »>«Jo* 
thia  point,  thi  other  principal  branch,  which  naea  atill  further 
to  the  aouth,  onitea  with  the  other.,  when  the  river  incline,  to 
the  we.t.  until  it  join,  the  Willamette.  From  »•  origin  in 
Mount  Jefferaon  to  iU  termination,  i.  about  forty  mde.  ;  from 
the  Oak  hilla  above  named  ia  twenty-five  milea. 

A  conaiderable  portion  of  the  wil  in  ihi.  vJley  i.  quit* 
araveUy,  but  a  great  portion  U  rich,  and  the  prairiea  are  weU 
clothed  with  luxuriant  graw.  Among  the  plantt,  herb.,  &c., 
common  to  thi.  part  of  the  country,  i.  wUd  flax. 

A  few  claim.  hVive  been  mad.  along  »»»•  north^Mt  a*d.  of 
the  Oak  hilla,  and  improvemenia  commenced.  Theaoil  yiewa 
.  good  crop  of  the  agricultural  produoU  auited  to  »»»•  o''™*  J; 
Above  the  Santa  Anna,  upon  the  eaatern  aide  of  the  Wtlla- 
mette.  the  vaUey  ia  about  twenty  milea  in  average  widUi  lor 
SneT;  mile..  uTthe  three  fork..  In  thi.  diaUnce  there  a«, 
SHJ/small  mountain  atreama,  crcalng  the  vril^r  ^  tH.  nvor. 
aU  of  which  are  lined  with  timber,  and  aeveral  of  them  aflisrU- 


VER 

I  milU  wera  lold.  m 
1  the  valley,  by  Mr. 
niwionary  maitera  in 
idriit  oitizeni,  und  in 
vn  is  laid  out. 
nces  a  range  of  oak 
■  in  *  aouih-eastern 
nnect  by  a  low  pasa 
e,  at  the  lower  bench 
nge  of  hills,  running 
wenty  milea  in  length, 
Inch  joinathe  W  ilia- 
Institute.     This  is  I 
ndred  and  fifty  y«rds 
i  iu  lenf  in,  U  has  a 
fir  »..r*  white  cedar 

ranches,  with  several 
laving  a  ttrip  of  beau- 
one-half  to  four  miles 
rise  iu  Mount  Jeffer^ 
iu  origin  to  where  it 
>  the  aouth  for  a  few 
i;  from  this  junction 
earn  that  rises  in  the 
m.  Tan  miles  below 
hich  rises  still  further 
sn  the  river  iodines  to 
,  From  its  origin  in 
lOttt  forty  miles  ;  from 
re  miles. 

a  thie  valley  ia  quite 
d  the  prairies  are  well 
ihe  planu,  herbs,  &e., 
I  wild  flax. 

the  north-east  side  of 
snced.  The  soil  yields 
I  suilml  to  the  climate, 
tern  aide  of  the  Willa- 
I  in  average  width  for 
thia  diaUnee  there  are 

the  valley  to  the  river, 
several  of  them  afford- 


TNK  ROTRY  MOI/NTAINH.  ff 

Ing  valuable  water  privileges  for  lurh  machinery  as  may  b« 
erected,  when  yankee  enterpriio  ihall  have  aettlcd  and  im« 
proved  this  ili-airable  portion  of  our  great  rrpuhlic. 

After  leaving  the  BanUam,  a  pmirie  commences,  of  front 
tour  to  twelve  miles  in  width,  which  continues  up  the  valley 
for  a  day'a  travel,  which  I  suppose  to  be  about  forty  miles. 
The  mountain))  upon  the  east  sitle  of  the  Willamette  are  cov- 
ered with  timber  of  quite  large  growth.  In  this  last  prairie 
has  been  found  some  stone  coal,  near  the  base  of  the  mountain 
spurs ;  but  ns  to  quantity  or  quality  I  am  uninformed.  The 
specimen  tried  by  a  blackamith  was  by  him  ptono)iuced  to  b« 
goml. 

The  Willamette  valley,  including  the  first  plateaus  of  the 
Cascade  and  Coast  ranges  of  moantaina,  may  be  said  to  aver- 
age a  width  of  about  sixty,  and  a  length  of  about  two  hundred 
miles.  It  i«  beautifully  diversified  with  timber  and  prairie. 
Unlike  oar  great  prairies  eaat  of  the  Rooky  Mountains,  those 
upon  the  waters  of  the  Pacific  are  quite  small ;  instead  of  dull 
and  sluggish  streams,  to  engender  miasma  to  disgust  and  disease 
man,  those  of  this  valley  generally  run  quite  rapidly,  freeing 
the  country  of  such  vegetable  matter  as  may  fall  into  them,  and 
are  capable  of  being  made  subservient  to  the  will  and  comfort 
of  the  human  family  in  propelling  machinery.  Their  banka 
are  genemlly  lined  with  fine  groves  of  timber  for  purposes  of 
utility,  and  adding  much  to  picase  the  eye. 

The  Willamette  itaelf,  throughout  its  length,  has  generally  a 
growth  of  fir  and  while  cedar,  averaging  from  one-fourth  to 
three  milee  in  width,  which  are  valuable  hoth  for  agricultural 
and  commercial  purposes.  Its  banks  are  generally  about 
twenty  feet  above  the  middling  atages,  yet  there  are  some  low 
ravines,  (in  the  country  called  «/ue«.)  which  are  filled  with 
water  during  freshets,  and  at  these  points  the  bottoms  are 
overflowed ;  but  nut  more  ao  than  those  upon  the  rivera  eaat 
of  the  Misaissippi.  It  has  been  already  observed  that  the  soil 
in  these  bottoms  and  in  the  prairies  is  very  rich ;  it  is  a  black 
alluvial  depotfite  of  muck  and  loam ;  in  the  timbered  portions 
it  is  more  inclined  to  be  sandy,  and  ihe  higher  ground  ia  of  a 
reddish  colored  rJay  and  loam. 

The  whole  seems  to  be  very  productive,  especially  of  wheat, 
for  which  it  can  be  aafely  aaid.  that  it  ia  not  excelled  by 
any  portion  of  the  continent.  The  yield  of  thia  article  has 
frequently  been  fifty  burhels  per  acre,  and  in  one  ease  Dr. 
White  harvested  from  ten  aerea  an  average  of  over  fifly-foar 


100 


JOURNAL  or  TRAVIUJ»  OVER 


buiheli  u»  th«  tor. ,  'out  »he  mo.t  common  "''P;'/""" ''"'2 
10  forty  b»iih«la  p«r  mm,  of  f-U  •»wm8}  •«*>  «f  "o™  '*«"'y 
to  twrnty-five  bu»hel»,  from  •pring  mwioi. 

Th«re  U  one  peculi.riiy  .Lout  th,  wh«U  tnd  whathj  U 

iriae.  from  th«  «l.m.t«  or  «ri.ly.  I  tm  un.ble  to  d*^""'"^ 

The  •imw.  ii..u.ttd  of  being  hollow  u  in  *•  ^"'""^  •JJ?? 

U  filled  with  a  medullary  eubeuince.  (commonly  "»«*  P'|"') 

which  Hivet  it  firmnaw  iind  etrengih;  hence  it  le  rirely  that 

the  wheat  from  wind  or  rain  lodge,  or  falU  before  h"»«^nf- 

The  .traw  i.  about  the  height  of  thai  grown  in  »»»«  lUtoa.  "J* 

wayt  bri«Ut.the  hoada  upon  it  are  much  longer,  and  ftlW  with 

large  grain*,  more  rounded  in  their  form.  Uian  thoao  harretted 

in  the  eaatern  part  of  the  Union.     I  ha»e  aMn  anwnd  fle  da. 

where  a  aingle  grain  ha>  grown  to  'n«i"'»y^/^ri**jrS 

each  of  which  appeared  to  hare  borne  a  well  fiUed  headj  for 

U.e  grain,  were  either  romoTed  by  bird.,  or  wot.  other  eaoM. 

Kb  Ft  wa.  November  when  1  arrive''  ">  *•  '^""''y'l,"* 

wheat  only  in  iU  grawy  .tale,  except  what  had  eacap^i  tin 

^^Thrfwrner.  haw  a  white  bald  wheat.  Ui«  white  beanW, 
and  the  red  bearded,  either  of  which  c«i  be  wwn  ui  faU  or 
■pring.  a.  beat  auit.  their  convenience,  or  their  "«««••»"•?'??" 
manJ!  Tiiat  .own  in  September.  October  or  No^mber.  yirid. 
the  moet  abundanUy;  but  if  .own  any  ume  before  the  middle 
of  May.  it  will  ripen.  The  time  of  harveaung  i.  ?'«?«';»•»?« 
to  the  .eed  Ume.*^  That  which  i.  early  .own  -  '^/  f«' »^ 
cradle  or  .ickle  by  the  l«.t  of  June,  or  f  •  J"»  °f  ^"'y;,J»f 
the  luteal  about  the  fir.t  of  September.  In  the  Oregon  »aUey. 
there  are  but  few  rain,  in  the  .ummer  «'««>^^";,"'J„"  .** 
wheat  aund.  up  very  well,  farmer,  are  generally  but  Utt>« 

hurried  with  their  harvealing.  

The  emigranu  unially  arrive  in  the  Utter  part  of  the  ram- 
mer or  fall!  and  neccMirily  firat  provide  a  f h«l«f ' /«' J«f 
familie..  and  then  turn  their  attenuon  to  putung  in  a  field  of 
wheat.  In  doin.  thi..  they  frequenUy  torn  under  the  jod  with 
the  plough  one  day,  the  next  harrow  the  ground  ««»«••"»«  "fj* 

their  ae^.  and  afier  going  over  it  T'^*.'*J^i!!f^J!IJl.  i£ 
the  harYe.t.and  not  unfrequenUy  gaJier  forty  buahol.  fro«  the 
•ere  thu.  wwn.  In  aeveral  in.unc..  the  M«ond  crop  hu 
been  garnered  from  the  one  aowing.     When  the  wheahM 

rtoodTor  cutting  untd  very  ripe,  •n«l^fl«»'««i  *Tw'*^^ 
the  gathering,  the  aeed  ihu.  acattered  over  the  fieM  hwibMO 
harrowed  under,  add  yielded  twenty  bu.heU  to  the  aci»,  of 


L 


_l 


\tr.n 

n  crop  i«  fro"*  ihirty 
;  tiid  of  from  tw«nt]r 

heat,  tnd  whalher  it 
unablfl  to  daurmint. 
n  ih«  Allanuo  itatM, 
inmonlv  ctll«d  pith.) 
heoM  It  it  nr«ly  thmt 
ilU  before  harvwtinf. 
own  in  ih«i  lUta*,  m- 
longvr.  wd  fillod  with 
,  ilun  llioie  harrMted 
re  seen  aroand  flelda, 
rity,  fortjr-two  alalka, 
I  well  Ailed  head:  for 
,  or  aome  other  eaoee. 
in  the  country,  I  aaw 
what  had  eacaped  the 

at,  the  whiu  bearded, 
an  be  aown  in  fall  or 
or  their  neeeaaitiee  de* 
er  or  November,  yielda 
lime  before  ih«  middle 
veaiing  ia  proportioned 
r  aown  ia  r^ady  for  the 
the  firat  of  July,  and 
In  the  Oregon  valley, 
er  moatha,  and  aa  the 
ue  generally  but  UtOa 

latter  part  of  the  ram* 
tide  a  aheller  for  their 

to  putting  in  a  field  of 
:orn  under  the  aod  with 
B  ground  onoe,  then  aow 
,n  with  a  harrow,  await 
r  forty  buahela  fron  the 
■  the  aecond  erup  haa 
When  the  wheat  haa 
battered  oonaiderably  ia 

over  the  field  haa  bMO 
buahela  U»  the  aei«.  of 


•nnt  nortr  Morfn-Atwii 


Ml 


good  merrhnntaWe  grain.  1  waa  told  of  an  Inatanre  where  a 
ihlrd  crop  waa  aimed  at  in  thia  way  \  it  yieldfiJ  but  aboul 
twelve  buahela  to  an  acre,  and  wafl  of  a  poor  quality. 

The  ruit  and  nmul  which  ao  often  bUat  the  hopea  of  th« 
farmer,  in  th«  old  itatea,  are  unknown  in  Oregon,  and  ao  far 
there  ia  but  very  little  cheat. 

Ilarveating  ia  generally  done  with  eradlea,  Hnd  the  grain 
Ihreahed  out  with  horaea,  there  being  no  machinea  for  thia  lat 
ter  purpoee  in  the  territory. 

The  grain  of  the  wheat,  though  much  larger  than  in  the 
alalee,  haa  a  very  thin  huak  or  bran,  and  in  iia  manufacture  it 
that  country  during  the  winter  montha  requirea  a  coaricr  bolt 
ing  cloth  than  in  the  Atlantic  autea,  owing  to  the  dampneaa  a 
the  atmoaph>;re  at  thia  aeaaon. 

The  ftrmera  already  raiae  a  aurplua  of  thia  commodity,  ovei 
and  above  the  conaumption  of  the  country :  bat  owing  to  the 
aeareity  of  railla  to  manalactnre  it.  they  cannot  at  all  tiraee 
have  it  in  readineae  to  anpply  veaaela  when  they  viait  the  ael- 
lltmenia.  At  the  time  I  left,  wheat  waa  worth  eighty  cenlfl 
per  boahel,  and  Hoar  three  dolUra  and  fiOy  centa  per  hundred 
poanda.  The  milla  above  the  Falla  grind  for  a  toil  of  one-eighth, 
bat  at  the  Falla  they  will  exchan^  for  wheat,  giving  thi.ly-aix 
poanda  of  fine  flour  for  an  Anieriran  bu«hel.  and  forty  pounds 
for  a  royal  buahel.  The  weight  of  a  bushel  of  wheat,  (accord* 
ing  to  qoallt-,)  ia  from  aixly  to  aevcnly  pounda. 

OaU  yiel j  an  abundant  crop,  bat  thia  grain  ia  aeldom  aown, 
aa  the  atock  ia  generally  luflered  to  gather  ita  auppirt  by  gras- 
iogover  the  plaina. 

I»eae  do  well,  and  are  much  uaed  in  feeding  hoga,  a\  tlit 
eloee  of  their  fattening,  when  taken  olT  of  their  range  of  caijuaa 
and  other  roota;  and  it  ia  remarked  that  this  vegetable  there  ia 
free  from  the  bug  or  wevil  that  infeeta  it  in  the  weatern  aUtea. 
Barley  ie  very  prolific,  and  of  a  large  and  aound  growth ; 
b«t  thei*  ia  aa  yet  little  raiaed,  aa  the  demand  for  it  ia  quite 
limited.  „ 

I  e«w  no  rye  in  the  country.  Bnckwheat  grew  very  well, 
Ihoi^  not  mneh  raiaed. 

For  petiloee  Oregon  ia  aa  nnequalled,  by  the  atates,  aa  it  u 
for  wheat.  I  doubt  whether  there  ia  any  portion  of  the  globe 
iUBOTior  to  it  for  the  cultivation  of  thia  dmnat  indiapenaabia 
vegetable.  I  heard  of  no  aweet  potatoea.  and  think  there  are 
none  in  tlie  territory. 
iDdiin  eon  ia  raiaed  to  aomo  extent  upon  the  lower  bottoms 


1 


IM 


iOVWKL  or  TRAVKUI  OVM 


in  Jh«  va!!ey9.  but  il  !•  not  eorwidfred  •  good  corn  eounliy 
It  hud  ykl<l«l  forty  buiheU  U)  ih«  8cr«;  U»«y  motily  pUnl  lh« 
•mall  «igh(-rowed  yiinke«  corn.  The  •umm«r«  ara  Um  c«k)1 
for  corn.  Tob»«o  haa  btmn  lri«d  j  and  alUioiw h  il  may  b« 
nia«d  to  aoma  aitant,  it  ia  lightur  than  io  Kantacky,  and  mor* 
•ouihern  Uutudea.  Tha  climate  and  toil  ara  admirably  adapted 
to  the  cult4iro  of  flax  and  Iwmp,  and  to  all  other  vafetablae. 
which  grow  wi»h  ordinary  care,  in  any  of  the  norliiaru,  eaatern 
and  middle  alalea. 

During  my  Iravala  ihrongh  tha  valley,  I  "ptnt  aoiae  Um» 
with  Mr.  Joel  Walker,  a  gentleman  who  had  rwiided  aararal 
yeara  in  California,  had  made  aflweiml  trip*  from  Oregon  to  tha 
bay  of  Juan  Franciaco,  and  had  apent  aome  time  in  Uapping 
and  trading  iM-lwe.-n  the  Wdlamelte  valley  and  the  42d  d». 
gree  of  north  latitude.  From  ihia  gendaman,  aa  well  ae  from 
•everal  otht'ra,,|  learned  that  the  trad  near  two  hundred  milee 
•outh  of  Oregon  city  arrivea  at  the  California  maunlaina, 
whinh  ia  a  ridga  running  from  the  Ca««d«  to  the  Coaat  range 
of  mounlaina.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  pmka,  thie  ridg* 
ia  aoaceptible  of  ea»y  cultivation,  being  parUy  prairie  and  partly 
covered  with  timber.  Mr.  Walker  doubu  not  that  a  good 
wagon  road  can  be  made  over  thla  ridge;  to  crow  which  re- 
quiree  but  a  few  houre,  and  bringa  ua  into  the  beauuful  Mun- 
uy  boundod  on  the  eaat  and  weat  by  the  Caaeade  and  Com! 
rangea,  ihe  California  mounUiina  on  the  north,  and  the  Rogue  • 
River  mountaina  on  the  eouth. 

Thia  diatricl  of  country,  which  ia  only  about  fdrty  mUee 
wide  from  eut  to  weat,  ia  drained  by  the  Umpquth  river,  and 
ita  tributoriea,  which  aa  in  the  Willamette  valley,  are  akuted 
with  timber ;  but  back  from  the  atreama  ia  a  praine  country, 
beautifully  alternated  with  grovee  of  timber. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Uropquah,  which  emptiea  lolo  the  P*. 
cifio  about  thirty  milea  from  where  it  leavea  thia  beautiful  dia- 
irict  of  country,  the  Hudaon'a  Bav  Compuny  have  a  trading 
poaU  If  we  except  thia,  there  la  no  aettlement  nor  claim 
made  on  thia  river  or  ita  tributariea.  Paaeinf  Kogua'a  Rivar 
mounuina,  the  trail  entera  the  valley  of  the  river  of  that  name. 
Thia  valley  ia  quite  aimilar  to  that  of  the  Umpqunh,  but  par- 
hapa  not  quite  ao  large.  Thia  valley  ia  bounded  on  the  aouth 
by  the  Klamet  mounuin,  which  ia  a  apur  of  the  Caaeade  and 
Coaat  mounuina.  It  ia  high  and  aomewhai  difficult  to  oaaa 
over ;  but  it  ia  believed  a  route  may  be  found  that  will  aJ«ml 
of  an  eaay  paaaage  over.    It  is  heavily  timbered ;  and  aa  n 


run 

food  corn  eounlry 
«iy  nuMily  iiUnl  lh« 
nmnrs  tre  Uio  cool 
hIUioiicIi  it  may  b« 
Kentucky,  and  mora 

•  Mimirsbly  Mlaptad 
ill  other  vcgetablM. 
,ha  norllierii,  euuini 

I  spent  tone  Urns 
had  raaidod  several 
I  from  Uregun  to  the 
ne  time  in  Uapping 
sy  and  the  43d  d*- 
nan,  as  well  as  from 
r  two  hundred  miles 
alifornia  mountains, 

•  to  the  Coast  range 
Pew  peaks,  this  ridge 
Uy  prairie  and  partly 
bU  not  that  a  good 
;  to  crosc  which  re> 
>  the  beautiful  ooun* 
I  Cascade  and  Coast 
trth,  and  the  Kogue'i 

ly  about  fdrty  milee 
Uropquah  river,  and 
le  valley,  are  skuted 
I  is  a  prairie  country. 
t>er. 

empties  into  the  Par 
res  this  beautiful  dis* 
ipkny  have  a  trading 
lettlement  nor  claim 
issing  KoKue's  River 
lie  river  of  that  name, 
e  Umpquah,  but  per- 
bounded  on  the  south 
r  of  the  Cascade  and 
what  difficult  to  oass 
uund  that  will  aJmil 
timbered;  and  as >t 


TM»  •OCTIY  MOUNTAIWk 


tM 


the  Coast  r»ng«,  the  timber  in  many  places  has  died,  and  a 
Uitck  growih  of  un<leri»rUih  sprung  up. 

Houth  of  the  KUmitt  mountains  spreads  out  the  beauurul 
vttllry  wrtlarrd  by  tlifl  Klamet  river.  This  valley,  although  no! 
so  well  kn..wn  as  that  of  the  Willamette,  is  supposed  to  b« 
more  eiteiisive.  and  *<|u«lly  ■u.reptible  of  a  high  atate  of 
culuvation.  It  is  eslemnfld  one  of  ihc  best  portions  of  l>r<TP>n. 
The  Und  is  mosUy  prairie,  but  is  well  dirsrsilied  wliii  timl)«r, 
«nd  bountifully  supplied  with  spring  branches.  fThe  Indians 
.re  more  numerous  here  than  in  the  valley  ftirther  north,  and 
aa  in  the  Umpquah  and  Rogue's  river  valleya,  more  hostile. 
There  hss  been  very  lilUe  trading  with  th«m  i  but  Ihsy  not 
unfrequenily  attack  persons  driving  catilo  througli  from  r«H- 
fomia  to  the  settlemenw  in  Oregon  }  and  although  none  of  the 
drivers  have  been  killed  for  several  years,  they  have  lost  num. 
bers  of  their  cattle.  Before  these  valleva  can  be  ssfely  selUed, 
poeta  must  be  established  to  protaot  the  inhabitanta  from  th« 
depredations  of  these  merciless  savages.    / 

A  settlement  of  about  a  doaeu  fnmdiee  has  been  made  upon 
Clatsop  plains.     This  is  a  strip  of  open  land,  about  a  mlla  in 
width,  extending  from  the  eouih  end  of  Point  Adaraa  or  Clal- 
sop  Point,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river,  about  twenty 
mi^es  slong  the  margin  of  the  ocean,  in  the  direction  of  Capa 
liook-out.     It  appears  to  have  been  formed  by  the  washing  oT 
the  waters.    Ridgee  resembling  the  waves  of  the  ocean  eitwitl 
from  north  to  eooth  throughout  tha  entire  length  of  the  plains. 
These  ridgee  are  from  twelve  to  twenty-five  feet  high,  and  in 
some  pIsMS  not  more  than  fifty  feet,  but  at  other  points  as 
much  aa  three  hundred  yards  asunder.     That  along  the  coast 
is  the  bluest  and  leaei  fertile,  as  it  seems  to  be  of  more  recent 
formation.    The  soil  is  composed  of  vegetable  matter  and 
sand,  and  produces  grass  more  abundantly  than  the  valleys 
above  5  the  spray  and  dampness  of  the  ocean  keeping  the  grass 
green  all  the  year.    The  Und  is  not  so  good  for  fall  wheal  m 
in  the  upper  country,  but  the  settlers  raise  twenty-five  bushels 
of  spring  wheat  to  the  acre.     I  think  it  better  for  root  crops 
than  the  valleys  alove.     In  the  roar  of  the  plains,  or  about  a 
mile  from  t.«o  shore,  is  a  body  of  land  heavily  dn»h«Md  with 
hemlock  and  spruce,  whith  is  tell  and  straight,  and  splite  freely. 
Near  the  Umber  a  marsh  of  some  two  hundred  yards  in  width 
extends  neariy  the  entire  length  of  thp  plaine.     This  marsh  ii 
covered  with  the  low  kind  of  cranberries.  ' 

A  ■treain  some  wa  or  twelve  yarda  in  width  cnten  the  plaina 


104 


JOOlUf  AL  OF  TIUTtliS  flIVTn 


»t  the  wuth  end,  runi'  ♦en  or  tweWe  milee  ooi'*.,  when  it  turns 
(0  Uie  went,  end  Bftcf  paseing  through  two  of  the  ridgce,  tikee 
»  eoutherly  diraction  and  entere  Uie  b»y  that  leta  up  between 
the  Plain*  and  Capo  Lookout,  not  mom  than  ten  ruda  from  lit 
entranee  into  the  Plaint.  Here  a  dam  ia  built  acroaa  the 
•Ueam.  and  the  cluraant  ia  erecting  a  flouring  mill. 

On  theae  plaina  the  claima  an«  Uken  half  a  mile  in  width  on 
the  ooaat,  and  extending  back  two  mileaf  each  claimant  there- 
fore  having  a  fair  proportion  of  prairie  and  timber  laadtbeaidea 
a  glorioua  cranberry  patch,  ,     .     .    .    j 

Soma  fifteen  mUea  eouth-eaal  of  Cav>6  lookout,  standi  • 
pttk  of  the  Coaat  range,  called  Saddle  Mountain;  and  the  cape 
M  a  apur  or  ridge  eztonding  .Vom  this  mounuin  some  two  or 
tree  miles  outinto  the  ocean.  Artmnd  the  head  of  the  bey, 
immediately  north  of  Capo  Lodiout,  ia  a  body  of  severai  tho«H 
sand  acres  of  timber  land.  The  sott  is  grH>t<,  bii»  most  of  it  to 
hearily  timbered  that  it  would  renire  much  labour  t&  premra 
it  for  fitrmin;.  Bat  as  the  strekoS  irom  im  moantain  afford 
an  abundance  of  water  power,  it  would  be  an  easy  matter  to 
manufacture  th^  timber  mto  lumber,  for  which  there  is  a  good 
matket  for  shipping,  and  thus  make  the  bearing  of  the  land 
for  eultifatioB  a  profitable  business. 

Alont  Uie  f.«oast  from  Cspe  Lookout  to  thtt  43d  parallel  there 
is  much  land  *»♦  can  be  cuW»at«i;  and  even  the  nountains, 
when  fleawd  ol  the  heavy  bodies  of  timber  with  whkh  ther 
are  clothed.  wiU  be  good  farming  land.    There  is  no  much 
pitch  in  th«  timber  that  it  buras  very  freely  j  sitoetimee  » 
men  etanding  tree  set  on  fire  wiU  aU  be  ocasom«l|  S3  *»♦ 
ft  is  aitofether  a  mistaken  idee  that  the  timber  lende  of  the 
eoonur^  BPrer  be  ^.ultivated.   I  am  fiiU^  of  the  opmkm  that 
iwo-thu^  of  the  ooontry  hetwewi  the  Wdtamette  wU«3r  «« 
the  ooes;,  and  extending  from  tUe  Cotambia  nwtta  tht  iorty 
•ticond  parallel  whieh  inelndee  the  Coeat  fuiie  of  moontrc* 
oanbeauceetaftiUyeMiava^d.    Thia  region  abenods  w  valua. 
abto  cedar,  hemleek  aad  fir  Umber,  is  well  wf    <  i.  P»'«"w 
a  fertile  soii,  nd  being  on  tho  coast,  it  ▼#       «ys  Iwve  the 
ad«atMeaf*|ood«arke<;fcrtheit»tMKii   ^tecuadmgs 
oeniiothB h«I  Song  the  oou^ betwe«  PoTH dmmdaad  the 
Hevof  SenFrM«cis*»,«i«slto|«her«nwMOi».  Ndjtoeotlonj 
the'range  -would  be  mere  tbia  thirty  miles  from  naitot;  ai«l 
the  di&cnlty  of  eonstraetkag  roads  «m  tati  thwqgk  thie  imm 
woukl  be  tifling.  oo«iSf!3  with  tha»  of  ew-lriietiBf  «i»^ 


9L 


I  iioi'4.,when  it  turns 

0  of  the  ridgei.  takM 
that  lets  up  between 
ihan  (en  ruda  from  iu 

1  ia  built  aoroaa  tha 
■ring  mill. 

i]f  a  mile  in  width  on 

each  claimant  there- 

d  timber  land,  beaides 

ft  Lookout,  standi  • 
Duntaint  andtheeape 
lountain  some  two  or 

the  head  of  the  bay. 

body  of  several  thoo- 
r<«ot),  bi&f  most  of  it  so 
looh  labour  U«  prepare 
I  tn«  mountain  anord 
be  an  eaajr  matter  to 
which  there  is  a  food 
a  elearing  of  the  land 

the  43d  paralM  there 
id  even  the  aounteinst 
■bet  with  whkh  ther 
.    There  ia  no  mweh 
r  {Ki!>ljr(  sometimea  * 
be  eciisameii  S9  iha* 
B  timber  lend*  of  the 
bUroftbeoj^'mtbat 
Wdhmetie  valley  and 
abia  river  to  dM  ibr^ 
ist  ranie  of  moantrcik 
gh>nMeiiDds  in  valua> 
vellvf    <  i»  por:eesss 
I  jfjF       xyv  b«ve  the 
ktemvv    ^tsewidiiige 
I  PngvH  idoond  aoA  the 
oaeooe.  N0;pla«otkm| 
11m  fionnariBsl;  and 
ante  thmgi  thie  iMf* 
of  munnei&tig  tiaibm 


THK  UOCKY  MOUNTA«?«. 

The  country  about  Cape  Lookout  is  inhabited  by  a  tribe  of 
Indians  called  the  Kilamooks.  They  are  a  laxy  and  filthy  set 
of  beinsAVho  live  chiefly  on  fish  and  hemes,  of  which  there 
is  here  a  great  abundance.  ^'^They  have  a  tradiUon  among  them 
that  a  long  •ime  ago  the  Great  Spirit  became  angry  with  thwn, 
■et  the  mounuin  on  fire,  destroyed  their  towns,  turned  tfieir 
ftVe  (chief)  and  tUieum$  (people)  into  ktone,  and  cast  them 
.nthi  ocean  outaide  of  Cape  Lookout;  that  the  G.-eatSpmt 
becoming  appeased,  removed  the  fire  to  Saddle  Mountain,  and 
aubsequwaV  to  the  Sawhle  lUaht  (high  monnUin,)  or  Mount 
Remier,  aa  it  is  called  by  the  whites,  on  the  north  side  of  the 

Columbia  river.  .  «       w     i.    .  •   .   u- 

In  the  ocean  about  a  mile  weat  of  Cape  Lookout,  is  to  be 
seen  at  high  water  a  solitary  rock,  which  they  eall  Kilamook  i 
Head,  after  the  ehief  of  the  tribe.  Around  thia  roek  for  hatf  • 
mik  in  every  direction  may  be  seen  at  low  water  dlveia  other 
reeks,  which  are  cf  "led  the  HHeunu,  (people)  «  Uie  tribe.  At 
low  water  is  to  be  aeen  a  eavity  passing  quite  through  Kda. 
mook's  Hesd,  giving  Uie  rock  th*  appearance  of  a  tcM  stone 
amh 

In  support  of  thta  tradition,  the  appearance  of  the  promontdry 
of  Cape  Lookout  indicates  that  it  may  be  the  remains  ol  an 
eitinct  volcano !  and  on  Saddle  Mountain  there  ia  an  ancient 
crater,  several  hundred  feet  deep;  while  Mount  Regnier  is -tUI 
a  volcano.  Thoie  who  have  visited  the  roeky  cliffii  of  Oape 
Lookout,  report  that  there  ie  aome  singular  carving  upon  the 
ledges,  resembling  more  the  hieroglyphics  of  the  Chmese,  thui 
any  thiiMf  they  have  aeen  elsewhere. 

These  Indians  have  another  tradition,  that  five  white  men, 

or,  Bs  :heT  eatt  them,  jwle  facea,  came  ashore  on  thia  pomt 

of  rock,  and  buried  something  in  the  cliffa,  whi«di  have  sinoe 

ftUen  down  and  buried  the  article  deep  in  the  iweks;  that 

dMse  pale  faees  took  oft  the  Indian  women,  and  raised  «  n* 

Hon  of  pecpJe,  who  atili  inhabit  the  letion  to  the  eooth.    And 

I  have  met  with  traveler*  who  aay  they  have  aeen  a  raw  of 

'-eoete  in  tiiat  region,  whoee  aroearaaM  would  aoem  to  ind>> 

Mte  that  they  nay  have  seme  Eniwpeaii  blood  m  their  vews. 

A  reasonable  eonjeoture  ia,  that  a  vwwel  may  have  been  cast 

»nr  upon  the  coast,  and  that  theee  five  men  «»*P«' *»^*3apji 

iAokootT   Another  drcnmataneerendesa  It  probaWettatauch 

nMit  have  beci.  the  ease.    Freqoenily,  aftat  a  long  and  heavy 

Mfth  westariy  atorm,  large  cakes  of  beea.wax,ftom  two  to 

am  iMhM  tbiek,  and  fiwn  twelve  to  eigbtaen  nefaaa  m  dia» 


Mtit^m*—*  ■*»!■>— 


«-» 


106 


JOUItNAIi  or  TIUVBLS  OVBB 


W^ 


eter,  «re  found  nlong  the  beach,  near  the  aoulh  end  of  CUtaoo 
PUina.  The  cakea  when  found  are  covered  with  a  kind  of 
aea-moas,  and  amaU  abella  adhere  to  them,  indicating  that  they 
have  been  a  long  time  under  water. 

In  or  about  Saddle  Mountain  riaea  a  atream  called  Bkipe- 
ncin'a  river,  which,  though  extremely  crooked,  runa  nearly 
north,  =nd  eropiiea  into  the  weetem  aide  of  Young  a  bay, 
which,  it  will  be  remembered,  ia  a  large  body  of  water  extend- 
inc  aouth  from  the  Columbia  river  between  Point  Adama  and 
Aiioria.  Between  thia  river  and  Clataop  plaina  la  a  atrip  of 
thick  apruee  and  hemlock,  with  several  low  marahea.  IM 
landini  for  Clataop  plaina  ia  about  two  milea  up  the  nver  j 
which  it  ia  rather  «liffioult  to  foUow,  aa  there  are  many  f/oM 
patlinK  in  from  either  aide,  of  equal  width  with  the  mein 
Mream.  From  the  bay  a  low  marahy  bottom  «>x)«>«l»  "P  ^ 
the  landing,  covered  with  ruahea  and  aea-graaa.  fhie  bottom 
is  overflowed  oppoaile  the  landing  at  high  water.  Between 
the  landiiw  and  Clataop  plaina  ia  a  lake  one  or  two  miJM 
in  length,  which  haa  iu  ouUet  into  the  bay.  »j  banka  are 
biffh,  and  covered  with  apruoe.  Near  thia  is  a  atream,  from 
the  mouth  of  which  it  ia  about  two  or  »«>"•  m»l««  "«««  »• 
bay  to  the  creek  upon  which  Lewia  and  Clark  wintered; 
aad  thence  about  three  and  a  half  mUea  to  the  heed  of  tlje 
bay  whew  Young'a  river  entera.  .    .      ,  -*       ^ 

Young's  river  la  a  etieam  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
in  width,  and  ia  navigable  for  ateamboats  and  amal  •lopP*  »« 
the  forka,  aix  or  aeven  roUes  up.  Abooi  seven  miles  further 
up  are  the  "  FaUa,"  where  the  water  pitchea  over  a  l«dp  or 
voekM,  making  a  Wl  of  about  aixty  feet.  Around  the  falU  the 
mountains  an  covered  with  heavy  Umber.  Near  the  forka 
the  river  reeeivee  bom  tho  eaat  a  small  stream,  upon  which  a 
machine  for  making  ahlnglee  has  been  erected;  and  as  Ae 
timber  in  the  vicinity  is  «Md  ftw  shingles,  which  can  be  readdy 
add  for  the  Sandwich  fitrfinda  marke%  the  owners  ««!»««»  ^ 
do  ■  piofileble  business.  Young's  river  rwes  in  or  near  Sad- 
die  mountain.  From  the  mouth  of  ihU  nver  it  is  abwt  eight 
or  ten  miles,  around  the  point  which  forms  on  the  east  Young  a 
Bay.  to  Aaloria,  or  Fort  George,  as  it  is  caUed  by  ^the  HuJ 
aon'a  Bay  Company.  This  stands  on  the  south  side  of  tbf 
CoLambia  tiver,  about  aixteen  miles  from  ita  mouth.  J 

The  Columbia  mer  and  ita  location  have  been  so  often  dOt 
aeribed,  4hat  it  U  hardly  neceaaary  for  roe  to  go  into  detaU*. 
IkA aa  thia.mrk  k  dtfaignedtote  afforded  ap  low  jM  to  pia$f 


r 


)VKR 

louth  end  of  CUtaop 
rered  with  a  kind  of 
I,  indicating  that  they 

■tream  called  Skip*- 
:rooked,  runs  nearly 
de  of  Young's  bay. 
tody  of  water  extend- 
Ben  Point  Adams  and 
p  plain*  is  a  atrip  of 

low  marahes.  The 
I  miles  up  the  river; 
there  are  nuny  »lua 
ridlh  with  the  main 
lotton)  tiXtende  op  to 
-graaa.  This  bottom 
iigh  water.  Between 
ke  one  or  two  miles 

bay.  T'-s  banks  are 
this  is  a  streami  from 
hree  miles  along  the 
md  Clark  wintered; 
M  to  the  head  of  the 

andred  and  fifty  yards 
Is  and  small  sloops  to 
i  seven  miles  farther 
tches  over  a  ledge  of 

Around  the  falto  the 
bat.  Near  the  forka 
stream,  upon  which  a 

erected;  and  as  the 
I,  which  can  be  readily 
the  owners  expect  to 
■  riMts  in  or  near  Sad* 
I  river  it  is  about  eight 
OS  on  the  east  Young's 
is  called  by  tb*  Hudp 

the  south  aide  of  th« 
m  its  mouih.  . 
Uve  been  so  ofieo  dfH 
me  to  go  into  details, 
rdad  ao  tow  iw  to  pla$e 


THB  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


ivr 


It  within  the  reach  of  every  one,  and  may  fall  into  the  hands  of 
many  whose  mean*  will  not  enable  them  to  procure  expensive 
works  on  Oregon,  it  may  not  be  amiss  to  say  .omeilnng  about 
that  noble  stream,  which  discharges  its  waters  into  the  ocean  be- 
iween  cape  Disappointment  on  the  north,  and  point  Adams  or 
Clatsop  point  on  the  aouth,  snd  in  latiUide  about  40°  16  north. 
At  its  mouih  the  Columbia  is  narrowed  to  about  six  miles  m 
width  by  cape  Disappointment  extending  in  a  south  west 
direction  far  out  into  the  stream,  the  cape  being  washed  on  the 
west  side  by  the  ocean.    Cape  Diaappointment  and  Chinook 
point,  a  few  miles  above  it,  form  Baker'a  bay,  which  afford, 
ffood  anchorage  for  vessels  as  soon  as  they  round  the  point. 
This  cape  presents  a  rocky  shore,  is  quite  high,  and  covered 
with  timber.    An  American  had  token  it  as  his  land  claim,  ae> 
ttMding  to  the  laws  of  the  territory ;  but  during  the  laat  win- 
ter.  he  sold  his  right  to  Mr.  Ogden,  then  one  of  the  principal 
factors,  but  *ow  Governor  of  Ui*  Hudson's  Bay  Company  m 
Oregon,  for  one  thousand  dollars.    A  fortification  on  this  cspe 
would  command  the  entrance  of  the  river  by  the  northern 
channel,  which  is  immediately  around  the  poiat,  and  as  it  is 
aaid,  not  more  than  half  a  mile  in  width.  _ 

Point  Adams,  the  southern  eape  of  the  Columbia,  is  a  litU* 
above  «ap6  Disappointment  It  is  low  and  ewidy,  and  coii- 
Unnes  a  sand  ridge  fear  milea  to  Clatsop  plains.  1  his  pomt, 
and  the  high  ground  at  Astoria,  as  before  alated,  form  Young  s 
bay,  near  which  the  ridge  is  covered  with  timber.  Near 
pmat  Adams  is  tbe  southern  uhannel  ot  entrance  into  the  Co- 
lumbia, which  tt  thought  to  be  preferable  to  the  noithem  chan- 
nel; and  I  think  either  of  them  much  better  Uian  heretofore 
represented.  In  each  there  is  a  aofficiency  of  water  to  float 
any  aiaed  vessel.  With  the  advantages  of  light  houses,  buoys, 
and  skUlfttl  pilots,  which  the  increasing  commerce  of  the  conn- 
try  must  soon  secure,  the  harbor  at  the  mouth  of  the  Colum- 
bia wouW  compare  well  with  those  on  the  Atlantic  coast;  and 
I  ttuiy  any  that  it  would  be  superior  to  many  of  them.      ^ 

As  w*  sacend,  Astoria  occupies  probably  the  first  suitable 
nt*  for  a  town.  It  stands  upon  a  gradual  slope,  whidi  extends 
fiwB  the  bank  of  die  river  up  to  the  mountain.  The  Umbwr 
was  once  taken  off  of  s«me  forty  or  fifty  acres  here,  which, 
eieent  rf>ottt  twenty  seres,  has  since  been  suffered  to  grow  up 
•CidD,  and  it  is  noW  a  thicket  of  spruce  and  bnais.  Five  or 
ata  M  dilapidated  buildings,  which  ate  occupied  by  the  Hud- 
MB'a  B*y  Companyrwholuve  a  smaU  stock  of  goods  for  lr» 


108 


JOORIf  AL  or  T1UV«M  OTCT 


dinf  with  the  nativea,  and  a  few  old  looking  lodges  upon  <h« 
bank  of  the  river,  fiUed  with  greaay,  filthy  Indiana,  conititui* 
Astoria. 

The  peraon  in  charge  of  this  eatabliahmmt,  whoaa  name  ii 
Bimey,  aeema  to  be  a  diatant,  haughty,  aulky  fellow,  whoee 
demeanor  »nd  looke  belie  the  charaeter  generally  given  lo  • 
moanuineer  or  backwoodsman.  Aa  evidence  of  hie  real  chap, 
aoior,  I  will  aute  one  cirenmsUnoe  as  il  was  related  to  me  by 
persons  residing  in  the  vicinity  of  the  place.  During  the 
summer  or  fall,  whUe  the  Britlah  war  vessel  Modeit«  wae 
lying  at  Astoria,  one  of  the  saikire  fell  overboard  and  WM 
drowned.  Search  wae  made,  bat  his  body  could  not  bo  found- 
Several  weeke  aAerwarda  the  body  of  ■  nan  wae  found  upon 
the  ahore,  s  short  distance  ebove  Aatoria.  Infomwdon  wai 
immediately  communicated  to  Bimey,  who  promised  to  giv« 
the  body  a  deeent  burial.  About  two  weeks  sAer  ihia,  some 
Indians  travelUng  along  the  ebore,  attracted  to  the  place  by  m 
disagrewble  seent  and  the  number  of  buiMrde  erdlected  to* 
gether,  discovered  the  body  of  a  man  moeh  mangM,  and  In 
a  Slate  of  putrefretion.  They  informed  two  white  men, 
Traak.  and  Duncan,  who  immediatelv  made  enquiry  as  to 
whether  the  body  found  on  the  beech  previouely  had  been 
buried,  and  received  for  anawer  from  Bimev,  that  it  wm  no 
cMMfrymm  (^M$,butU  wot  lUttfy  one  of  tka Uif  •^grja^* 
fromthe  Stottt  that  had btm  dn»im»d ta  tk» Ca$eade IiiU$. 
Trask  and  Duncan  prooeeded  to  bury  the  body,  and  found  it 
to  be  in  the  garb  of  a  British  eailor  or  marine.  Thia,  to  aay 
the  least,  was  carrying  natkMial  prejudice  a  little  too  iar. 

Near  Astoria,  aad  along  the  river,  eeveral  daima  have  bewi 
tnk^  and  eommeneementa  made  at  improving.  Anehorage 
may  be  had  near  the  ahore.  Three  milee  above  Astoria  k 
Tongue  point,  a  nanow  roekr  ridge  some  three  hundred  foet 
high,  putthig  out  about  a  mile  into  the  river ;  but  at  Om  neek 
it  M  low  and  not  more  than  two  hundred  yards  aecoea.  Tha 
two  channels  of  the  river  unite  below  thie  point.  Oppaaite 
is  Gray'a  bay,  a  large,  beautifiil  sheet  of  Water,  of  auAeient 
depdi  to  float  shipa.  Above  and  on  th*  aeatk  side  of  the  river 
ia  Swan  bay,  a  large  eheet  af  wateiv  though  •hallow,  pissent 
iiw  nnmerwie  bare  et  tow  tidea.  A  dMpdiamMi  has  been 
eut  through  thie  bay,  whieh  afbrda  aa  eatiaaee  into  a  aMa 
that  eomee  in  from  the  eovdi,  about  two  hnndrtd  yards  wide, 
aad  fi«m  appearmwe  is  navigable  eoma  diMaaee  np.  b  tMo 
visfadty  ihawhelaoMatryincovandwithlNtvytimbar.  b 


I  OTEH 

king  lodges  upon  <hii 
thy  IndUtw.  conitilul* 

immt,  whota  name  m 
,  aulky  fallow,  whoae 
ir  ganarally  given  to  • 
danoe  of  hie  real  char* 
I  wae  related  to  me  by 
I  place.     During  the 
Tesael  ModeatA  wae 
U  oTerboard  and  wai 
dy  could  not  be  found- 
I  BMB  wae  found  upon 
ria.    Inforawtion  wai 
who  promiaed  to  give 
(reeke  after  thia,  aomo 
icted  to  the  place  by  « 
buiMrde  erulecled  to* 
nueh  mangled,  and  in 
med  two  white  men, 
r  made  enquiry  aa  to 
t  previouely  had  been 
Bimev,  that  it  unm  no 
taftkt  ktt  *migrmt$ 
iMtHuCa$eadeHM$, 
(he  body,  and  found  it 
narine.    'fhie,  to  aay 
M  a  little  too  iar. 
venl  elaime  have  bem 
nproving.    Anehoran 
nilee  above  Aeloria  m 
«B«  three  hundred  (bet 
river ;  but  at  die  neek 
ed  yarda  aeraea.    The 
thie  peint    Oppoeila 
of  Water,  of  ewfieient 
I  loutk  aide  of  the  tiver 
leugli  ahallow,  peaeenlu 
deep  dtaanal  hae  been 
eatiaaea  into  n  meat 
ro  hundred  yarda  wide* 
le  dietonee  up.    In  tliie^ 
witb  banvy  Unbar.  In 


TtlR  ROCKY  MOKKTrAlNS. 


t(N» 


the  indentation  in  the  mountain  rjinga  aouth  of  the  river,  there 
■eem«  to  be  large  acopea  of  good  rich  land,  which  would  pro- 
duce  well  if  cleared  of  limber.  From  Tongue  point  acroaa 
Gray'a  bay  to  Caulamet  point  is  about  sixteen  miles.  Bma  t 
crafi  are  frequently  compelled  to  run  the  aouihern  channel, 
'naide  of  a  cluater  of  ialands  called  CaUlamot  laUnds,  which 
passes  "  old  Catalamet  town,"  as  it  is  called,  a  point  where 
bnee  stood  an  Indian  village.  Four  or  five  cUima  have  been 
Uken  he?e,  but  none  of  them  have  been  impioved.  A  abort 
distanco  from  the  river  are  several  beautiful  prairies,  sur- 
rounded  with  heavy  timber.  A  amaU  alream  entera  here, 
which  aibrds  water  power  a  short  distance  up. 

A  few  milea  above  old  Catalamet  town,  near  the  top  of  the 
Muff,  about  four  hundred  yarda  from  the  Columbia,  atande 
Wilaon  ^  Hunt's  aaw  miU,  which  ia  driven  by  a  amaU  atrram 
coming  down  from  the  mountain;  after  leaving  the  whert  tb* 
atream  falls  about  sixty  ieet,  striking  tide  water  below.  A  sluice 
or  platlbrm  ie  eo  eonstruetod  as  to  convey  the  lumber  from  the 
milTto  the  level  below,  where  it  ie  loaded  into  boaU  and 
run  out  to  the  river,  where  it  can  bei  loaded  into  vessela. 

Upon  our  arrival  at  thU  pkoe,  the  bark  Toulon  was  lymf 
at  anchor,  about  fifty  vaids  from  the  shore,  taking  m  a  eargo 
of  lumber  for  the  Sandwich  Islanda,  to  which  ahe  ejpectod  to 
eaUinafowdaya.  This  wae  early  in  lanuary,  but  from  aome 
cause  ahe  did  not  leave  the  mouth  of  the  river  until  the  last  of 

February.  l      l     t 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  mill  thiere  ie  eome  better  timber  than  I 
have  seen  in  any  other  part  of  tiie  eounlry.  The  Umet  tnee 
are  about  seven  feet  in  diameter,  and  neariy  three  hundred  feet 
high  t  the  usual  aise,  however,  ia  from  eighteen  inehee  to  three 
feet  diameter,  and  about  two  hundred  feet  high. 

The  country  elopes  up  from  the  mill  gradually,  for  eeverai 
mUea,  and  is  susceptible  of  eaay  cultivation ;  the  eoil  le  some- 
what aandv,  and  has  tiw  appearance  of  being  good. 

In  leaving  thie  {daee,  we  atruck  diroeUy  acroee  the  nver, 
which  is  here  over  two  miles  wide.  Upon  the  nordi  side, 
ahnoet  oimesae  to  the  mill,  is  a  daim  held  by  Bimey,  of  As< 
toria,  who  has  ma-ie  an  effort  at  improvement  by  cutting  timber 
and  rmaing  the  H^  of  a  cabin.  At  diia  place  a  rooky  bluff 
eemmeoeee  and  i.  .Snuee  up  *•  jjw  %  '^u"n!!I'  Z*' 
whieh  s  greet  nniy  beautiful  walerfeUe  leap  into  the  Cohimbia. 
Thern  is  one  aheel  of  water  ten  oc  twdve  feet  wide,  which 
phwya  over  a  preeipitoua  cliff  two  hundred  feet  into  the  nver. 


no 


JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  OVER 


•triking  the  water  nbont  thirty  feet  from  the  ba«e  of  the  rock, 
where  there  ia  sufhcient  depth  to  float  ve^aela  of  large  aize. 

At  the  (liaiance  of  eight  or  ten  milea  above  the  mill,  on  the 
•oulh  aide  of  the  river,  there  ia  an  indentation  in  the  mountain 
to  the  Bouth,  and  a  bend  in  the  river  to  the  north,  which  forma 
R  body  of  bottom  land  aeverat  milea  in  width,  and  aome  ten  or 
twelve  milea  long,  the  greater  part  of  which,  except  a  atrip 
varying  from  a  quarter  to  half  a  mile  in  width,  neit  to  the 
river,  ia  flooded  during  high  tidea.  Thia  atrip  ia  covered  with 
white  oak  and  cottonwood  timber.  The  remainder  of  the 
bottom  ia  prairie,  with  ocoaaional  dry  ridgee  running  through 
it.  and  the  whole  of  it  covered  with  graas.  By  throwing  up 
leveea,  aa  ia  done  upon  the  Atlantic  ooaat,  moat  of  iheae  nn« 
landa  might  be  cultivated. 

At  the  extreme  aouthern  point  of  the  elbow,  there  cornea  m 
a  Btream,  the  sixe  of  which  wna  not  aacertained,  but  from  ap- 
pearaneea  it  ia  of  aufficient  aiie  to  propel  a  conaiderable  amount 
of  machinery.    There  are  aeveral  iaianda  in  the  river  oppoaito 
the  lower  point  of  thia  bottom,  and  at  the  northern  angle  the 
Columbia  ia  not  more  than  three-fouitha  of  a  mile  wide.    Thie 
ia  called  Oak  point,  and  hokla  oat  good  indocements  for  ■  aet- 
tlement.    There  ia  an  Indian  village  half  a  mile  below  the 
point  {  and  oppoaile,  upon  the  northern  aide  of  the  river,  a 
flood  mill-atream,  the  falla  being  near  the  river,  and  the  moun- 
uin  covered  with  timber.    Immediately  above  the  point,  the 
river  apreada  ont  to  one  and  a  half  or  two  milea  ia  width,  and 
having  aeveral  iaianda,  portiona  of  which  are  covered  with 
cottonwood,  oak  and  aah  timber,  the  remainder  being  neariy 
all  prairie.    From  Oak  point  np  to  Vancouver,  the  acenery 
very  mneh  reaemblea  that  along  the  Hudaon  river  through  the 
Caukill  MounUioa,  but  much  more  grand,  aa  the  Caacade 
range  of  mountaina,  and  many  snowcapped  peaka,  are  in  view. 
Some  portion  of  the  way  the  ahore  ia  high  rugged  dim  of 
rocka,  at  others  indentationa  in  the  mountain  leave  bottoms, 
from  a  quarter  to  three  miles  wide,  whieh  are  mostly  covered 
with  timber.    From  the  lower  mouth  cif  ^he  Willamette  to 
Fort  Vaneoover,  the  ahorea  ere  lined  with  cottonwood  timber, 
and  upon  the  aouth  aide,  as  far  up  aa  the  mouth  «f  Sandy,  or 
Quicksand  river,  whieh  comes  in  at  the  wt^tem  base  of  the 
Cascade  range.    Rot  few  elaima  have  as  yet  bi  n  Uken  aloiw 
the  Columbia,  but  the  fishing  and  lumbering  advantages  which 
this  part  of  the  country  possesses  over  many  others,  holds  ont 
great  indneements  to  settlers. 


)VBR 

the  bane  of  (h«  rock, 
niiela  of  hr^n  size, 
ihnve  the  mill,  on  the 
ation  in  the  mountain 
le  north,  which  forme 
iilth,  and  aome  ten  or 
vhich,  except  a  strip 
in  width,  next  to  the 
atrip  ia  coTered  with 
'he  remainder  of  the 
ilgea  running  through 
IS.  By  throwing  up 
at,  moat  of  iheae  An« 

Blbow,  there  comet  in 
erUined,  but  from  ap- 
a  conaiderable  amount 
I  in  the  river  oppoait* 
he  northern  angle  the 
of  a  mile  wide.    This 
indacements  for  a  set- 
alf  a  mile  below  the 
I  aide  of  the  river,  a 
t  river,  and  the  moan' 
r  above  the  point,  the 
'o  miles  in  width,  and 
lich  are  covered  with 
imainder  being  nearly 
aneouver,  the  aeenery 
dson  river  through  the 
rand,  as  the  Cascade 
tad  peaks,  are  in  view, 
a  high  rugged  diflfs  of 
ountain  leave  bottoms, 
ieh  are  mostly  covered 
of  <the  Willamette  to 
ith  eoUonwood  timber, 
le  mouth  of  Sandy,  or 
le  western  base  of  the 
la  yet  bi  n  Uken  aloiw 
iring  advantages  which 
many  others,  holda  out 


THK  ROOKY  MOUNTAINS. 


Ill 


Prom  Fort  Vancouver,  for  i-everal  miles  down  upon  the  north 
side,  the  counlry  is  sufficiently  level  to  make  good  farming 
land;  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  or  members  ol  the 
compan\ .  have  extensive  farms,  with  large  herds  of  cattle. 
Fort  VanrpuvPT  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  sites  for  a  town 
upon  the  Columbia.     It  is  about  ninety  miles  from  the  ocean, 
and  upon  the  north  side  of  the  river.     Large  vessels  can  come 
up  this  far.    The  banks  of  the  river  are  here  about  twenty-five 
feet  high.     Much  of  llie  bottom  land  about  the  fort  is  inclmed 
to  be  gravelly,  but  produces  well.  ..    .      .    .^ 

A  party  consisting  of  nine  persons,  in  two  row-boats,  started 
from  Oregon  city  on  the  24th  of  December,  for  Fort  Vancouver, 
and  arrived  there  in  the  afternoon  of  the  25ih.  In  our  party 
was  Colonel  M'Clure,  formerly  of  Indiana,  and  who  had  been 
a  member  of  the  Oregon  legislature  for  two  y«?ars.  Aa  soon 
as  we  landed,  he  made  his  way  to  the  fort,  whioliis  about  four 
hundred  yards  from  the  shore,  with  the  view  of  obtaining  quar* 
ten  for  the  party.  He  soon  returned  and  conducted  na  to  our 
lodgings,  which  were  in  an  old  cooper's  shop,  or  rather  ehed, 
near  the  river.  ■         ,  . .  .  ,    _ 

Before  starting  we  had  prepared  ourselves  with  provisions, 
and  a  few  cooking  utansils.     We  set  to  work,  and  although 
the  wind  and  rain  made  it  unpleasan^  we  soon  had  a  comfort- 
able  meal  in  readiness,  and  we  made  good  use  of  the  time  untol 
it  was  devoured.     This  was  hoJyday  with  the  servants  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  such  ranting  and  frolicking  has 
perhaps  aeldom  been  seen  among  the  sons  of  men.    Home 
were  engaged  in  gambling,  some  singing,  some  running  horses, 
manv  promenadin;  on  the  river  shore,  and  others  on  the  large 
men  prairie  above  the  fort     H.  B.  Majesty's  ship  of  war 
ModesU  was  lying  at  anchor  about  fifty  yards  from  the  ahore. 
The  sailors  also  seemed  to  be  enjoying  the  holydays—many 
of  them  were  on  shore  promenading,  and  casting  $heep  «  ro*» 
at  the  fair  native  damsels  as  they  strolled  from  wigwam  to  hut, 
and  from  hot  to  wigwam,  intent  upon  seeking  for  themselves 
the  greatest  amount  of  enjoyment.    At  night  a  party  waa  given 
on  iKwrd  the  ship,  and  judging  from  the  noise  kept  up  until  ten 
at  night,  they  were  a  jolly  set  of  fellows.     About  this  time  a 
boat  came  aahoro  from  the  ship,  with  a  «bw  land  lubbera  roost 
diorionsly  drunk.    One  of  them  fell  out  of  the  boat,  and^  hM 
•omradea  were  barely  abte  to  puH  him  ashore.    They  paesed 
«r  ehop,  enrsing  their  ttaw  for  thto  ill  luck. 
Wa  wrapped  ourselvea  in  our  blanketo,  and  lay  down  upon 


k 


m 


JOURNAL  or  TRAVm*  OVWI 


•  piU  of  lUfM.  Th«  rain  wm  Wlin|  gently,  ind  w.  wtw 
•(MO  Mlfiep.  In  th*  after  part  of  th«  night,  aeveral  of  ua  wtrt 
arousMl  by  a  atranga  noiaa  among  the  alavea.  In  iho  d«r"ne« 
we  diacovered  acme  objecla  near  ua,  which  we  aiippoaeU  to  bu 
hflca.  We  hiaaed  and  hallooed  at  ihem,  to  aeare  ihem  away. 
They  commenced  grunting,  and  wad«»ad  off,  and  all  waa  agaiu 
quiet,  and  aemained  ao  until  daylight;  bat  when  we  aroae  iii 
the  morning,  we  found  ouraeUea  minua  one  wagon  aheet, 
which  we  had  brought  along  for  a  aaU,our  tm  kettle,  elghtw^a 
or  twenty  pounda  of  meat,  a  butcher  knife  and  acabbwd,  one 
Air  cap.  andaeferal  other  arUclee.all  of  which  had  been  stolen 
by  th«  Indiana,  who  had  ao  eiacUy  imitulad  the  oiam«u»rea 
of  a  gang  of  hoga.  •■  mtirely  to  deeeive  ua. 

After  breakfaat  we  wited  the  forU  where  we  had  an  Intro- 
dueUon  to  Dr.  McUnghlin,  the  Governor  of  the  Hudaona 
Bay  Company.  He  appeara  to  be  much  of  a  genUeman,  and 
iayil«I  ue  to  remain  durbg  the  day  t  but  aa  we  were  upon  an 
exeuraion  down  tho  ri»er,  we  only  remained  to  make  a  lew 
parehaMe.  which  being  aooompllahed.  we  left  »»»e  ptoco. 

Aa  before  atatml,  the  fort  aUnda  upon  the  north  bank  of  the 
Columbta,  aix  nilee  above  the  upper  mouth  of  tho  WiUamrtte, 
and  about  four  hundred  yaida  from  the  ahor«.     The  pnncipal 
baildtoga  an  included  within  a  etoekade  of  IO0.  eet  op  end. 
wiaa  doae  together,  and  about  twelve  feet  hi^hj  the  lo#er 
enda  of  the  limbera  being  aunk  about  fonr  feet  in  the  ground. 
A  notch  ia  cut  out  of  each  log  near  the  top  and  bottom,  into 
whioh  a  girth  ia  fitted,  and  mortiaed  into  a  Une  >of  »t  •«>h 
end,  the  whol*  being  trenwled  to  ihia  girth.    I  jedge  the  an* 
eoSaina about  four ibree.    The firat thing thiU etrikee.  peraou 
forcibly  upon  entoring  one  of  the  principal  gatea  »«pon  the 
aouth,  ia  two  large  oannona,  planted  one  upon  either  aideof 
the  walk  leading  to  the  Oovernor'a  houae,  immediately  in  front 
of  the  entrance.     Many  of  the  bnildinga  are  Uigj  and  «»«- 
modioua,  and  fitted  up  for  an  •«««»''? '»|»*«^."I^''p"|;  "^ 
fcahioned  looking  conooma,  and  much  dilapidrted.    Eaet  of 
the  fort  and  along  the  river  bank  there  la  •  giaaajr  prwrle, 
ntondtng  up  faTabout  three  mileet  U  haa  been  euluvaled, 
but  an  unuauaUy  high  fn«hei  in  the  fiver  waah«l  the  fence 
away,  awl  it  haa  aineo  remained  without  ewluvalion.    Tht 
aoU  •  graveUy.  North  oi  thia,  and  extending  down  nearly  even 
with  tfie  fort  there  ia  a  handaome  farm,  under  good  eulUvataeo. 
North  of  the  fort  th«i«  ia  a  beauUful  orchard,  and  an  ext«eive 
garden,  with  eeveral  Urge  blocka  of  buadioga.    Belovtht 


vsu 

;ently.  and  w«  wtr* 
t,  Mveral  o(  u»  wflrt 
e«.  In  the  darknecit 
:h  we  iiippoMtl  to  bu 
U)  tctir*  tli«m  away. 
aff,  and  all  waa  again 
It  whan  we  aroaa  in 
a  ona  wo(un  aheet, 
r  tin  kettle,  eifhteen 
fe  and  aoablwrd,  one 
rhioh  had  beau  .stolen 
iLled  the  UMnauvree 
ua. 

lere  we  had  an  intra* 
■or  or  the  Hudaon'a 
I  of  a  geatleman,  and 
M  we  were  upon  aa 
tined  to  make  a  lew 
I  left  the  place, 
(he  north  bank  of  the 
th  of  the  Willamette, 
hor«.    The  prineipal 
t  of  loga.  let  up  end- 
feet  high!  the  lo«er 
«r  feet  m  the  ground. 
I  top  and  boUMD,  into 
o  a  lane  log  at  eaeh 
rUi.     I  judge  tlie  atee 
gthatetrikaeaperaon 
eipal  gate*  upon  the 
M  upon  either  aide  of 
u  immediately  in  front 
a  are  large  and  <H>m« 
uaineee,  otbera  are  old 
dilapidated.    Eaet  of 
re  ii  •  gnaqr  {trairie, 
i  haa  been  eultivaled, 
iver  waahad  the  fence 
KHit  eMltivalion.    The 
ding  down  nearly  even 
under  good  eultivataea. 
theid,  and  an  exteaaive 
bttildioga.    B«k>«  die 


TIIC  ROCKY  MOUNTAINt. 


lis 


fort,  and  extending  from  the  ririT  fur  half  a  mile  north,  ia  the 
tillage}  the  inhabilanu  of  which  are  a  mongrel  race,  conaiit- 
Ing  of  Engllih,  French,  Canadiana,  Indiona  of  different 
nationa,  and  half  breedf,  all  in  the  employ  of  the  company. 
The  buildinga  are  aa  varioua  in  form,  aa  are  (he  eharaeteria* 
tice  of  their  inmatea. 

Aa  yet  there  are  but  few  Americana  eetlled  upon  the  north 
eide  of  the  Columbia.     There  aeeme  to  hare  been  an  effort 
upon  the  part  of  the  Hudaon'a  Bay  Company,  to  impreaa  the 
American  people  with  an  idea  that  the  entire  country  north  of 
the  river  waa  unfit  for  cultivation.     Not  onhf  waa  thia  atale- 
ment  made  to  emijfrania.hut  it  waa  heralded  forth  to  the  whole 
worid ;  and  aa  much  of  the  country  along  the  Columbia  cor- 
roborated thia  Btetement,  no  effort  waa  made  to  diaprove  it. 
Americana  viiiiing  ih<it  anmlry  being  ao  well  pleaaed  with  the 
attenliona  paid  Uiem  by  the  Hudaon'a  Bav  Company,  took  for 
granted  their  ala'emeiila,  without  eiamdiing  for  themielvea, 
and  have  aanerted  it  at  home,  in  accordance   with  Britiah 
intereata,  and  thit  I  fear  haa  had  iu  influence  in  the  aelUement 
of  thia  queation.     For  any  one  acquainted  with  the  character 
of  the  claima  of  the  reapective  govemmenta  can  but  admit,  that 
greater  privilegoa  have  been  granted  to  Great  Britain  than  that 
government  had  any  right  to  expect,  or  than  the  juaUce  of  our 
claim  would  allow.     Undoubtedly,  the  laigeat  part  of  go«>d 
agriculniral  country  ia  aouth  of  49P  north  latitude,  but  there  la 
t  great  deal  of  excellent  land  north  of  that  line.     But  littie  of 
it  haa  been  explored  by  Americana,  and  we  have  taken  only 
the  atatementa  of  Britiah  aubjecta,  and  upon  their  authority, 
the  queetion  between  tha  two  govemmenU  waa  aettled.    But 
aa  we  have  proven  by  aetual  examination  the  ineorreemeaa  of 
their  atatemenu  in  relation  to  the  country  between  the  Colum- 
bia and  the  49th  degree  north  IdUtnde,  we  may  leaaonably 
infer  that  they  are  nleo  incorrect  in  relation  to  the  remainder 
of  the  eountry  north.    That  the  general  featurea  of  the  coun- 
try north  of  the  Columbia  River  are  rough  and  mounUinoua, 
ia  admitted;  and  the  aame  maybe       '  in  relaUon  to  the 
eoantrv  eouth  of  it  (  but  that  it  ii  barren  and  aterlle,  and  imflt 
for  cultivation,  ia  denied.  ^  ^    „  .     ^,     u      j 

The  eoDDtrr  upon  the  north  aide  of  the  OohimUa  •bouoda 
With  \temm  vrileya  of  rich  aoil,  of  prairie  «M  timbered 
landi,  well  watered,  ftnd  adept*!  to  the  growUi  of  tU  the  grtlno 
raiaedla  tho  nonhern,  nhldto,  tnd  weetiem  BiiM.  wWi^P^ 
Moridt^utefMfor|iMtinft  nemftJUnt  «•«"»«*••  ***»»" 
10 


i 


-J 


114 


jouiiNAL  or  travhui  ovn 


and  A«h  t  >nd  ita  proximity  to  (>n«  or  the  beat  harbor*  in  lh« 
worU,  reotJera  it  ona  of  the  moat  daairable  uid  inip«>runl  aac- 
tiona  upon  tha  Pv,\&t>  coaal.  Fmar'a  rivar,  with  ita  numar- 
oua  tribuuriaa,  will  aflurd  a  aattlemanl  which  will  conpw* 
well  willt  England  itaalf. 

Vancouver')!  laland.  an  axeellani  body  of  land,  la  equal  lo 
Eiigland  in  point  of  aiie,  fertility  of  aoil,  climaia,  and  arary- 
Uiing  that  would  conatiuila  great  national  wealth.  And  bin 
aidea  iheae,  there  are  undoubtedly  ext«naiv«  vallaya  north  of 
Fraier'a  river,  which  will  eonpwre  well  with  it ;  but  we  know 
nothing  poaitively  upon  thia  aubiect. 

The  excellent  harbora  of  Pugel'a  aound,  with  ita  many 
advantagea,  and  the  delightful  country  about  it,  are  aufllcient  to 
induce  eapitaliata  to  lock  that  way.  Thia  will  probably  be  the 
principal  port  upon  the  coaaC  Here  will  doubtleea  be  our 
navy  yard  and  ahipping  atorea.  It  ia  thought  by  roanv  that  an 
eaay  communication  can  be  had  between  the  Sound  and  the 
middle  region,  by  atriking  the  Columbia  above  fort  Wallawalla. 
If  thia  can  be  effrolad,  it  will  leaaen  the  diatanee  materially 
from  the  aettlement  upon  the  upper  Columbia  to  a  aeajport 
town  (  and  aa  the  navigation  of  that  river,  between  the  Caa* 
oade  and  Lewia'a  fork  ia  attended  with  great  danger  and  diffi- 
culty, a  route  through  to  die  aound  in  thia  quarter  would  be 
very  deairable.  I'hal  it  can  be  accompliahed  there  ia  but  little 
doubi.  A  atream  emptying  into  the  ocean  between  the  Colnm* 
bia  and  the  aound,  called  Shahalea,  aObrda  a  very  good  haiw 
bor,  which  ia  called  Gray 'a  harbor.  Up  thia  atream  there 
ie  a  country  auitable  fur  an  exienaive  aetilemenL  Like  moet 
other  vaUeya  in  the  country  it  ia  diveraifird  with  prairie  and 
timbered  land,  and  well  watered.  No  eUima  aa  yet  have  been 
tidien  in  thia  valley. 

There  are  two  peaka  upon  the  north  aide  of  the  river,  whieh 
remain  covered  with  aoow  the  whole  year  round.  One  ia  called 
Mount  St.  Helen,  and  atanda  north  enat  of  Fort  Vancoover, 
and  diatant  perhape  forty-five  or  fifty  milea. 

The  other  ia  Mount  Regnier,  and  aunda  aome  thirty*fiT» 
milea  from  SL  Helen,  in  a  northerly  direction.  Thia  ia  aaid 
to  be  a  volcano. 

The  diatanee  from  Fort  Vancouver  to  Puget'e  aound,  in  • 
direct  line,  cannot  azoeed  ninety  milea ;  but  the  \uA  mova* 
taina  between  render  the  route  aomewhat  dificult,  and  the  die* 
taace  neeeaaarily  traveled  would  be  eonaiderabljr  iaereaeed,    . 

Abwt  Iqt^  laflM  Mow  fort  Vaaeoavv  ihMt  wmtia  f 


.0m^ 


TNK  WX-KV   MOUNTAIN* 


lit 


I  belt  harhora  in  Um 
a  wid  imporuni  a«c- 
var,  with  ila  numar- 
whkh  wUleompMr* 

of  land,  ia  equal  to 
climaM,  and  avary* 
d  wealth.  And  b«- 
live  valltya  norih  of 
ith  it ;  but  w«  know 

und,  with  ita  11UU17 
lit  it,  are  aufflriant  to 
will  probably  b«  tha 
ill  doubtleaa  ba  our 
ight  by  many  that  aa 
n  the  Sound  and  the 
Mve  fort  Wallawalla. 
I  dialanee  materially 
ilumbia  to  a  aflaDort 
ir.  between  the  Caa- 
reat  danger  and  diffl- 
lia  quarter  would  be 
bed  there  ia  but  little 
between  the  Colnm- 
da  a  very  good  bar* 
Jp  thia  atream  there 
Lleroent  Like  moet 
ird  with  prairie  and 
ima  aa  yet  have  been 

le  of  the  river,  whieh 

round.  One  ia  called 

of  Fort  Vaucoover, 

nda  aomo  thirty>fiv« 
tction.    Thia  ia  anid 

Puget'e  aound,  in  • 
but  the  birii  momi* 
dUBmill,  ead  the  die* 
iderably  inereeeed. 


.<w»m  MlM  Cowlitl  I  tw.niyfi(?e  miles  up  this  !ir#«i»  ihare 
?!Tr,.^h -Vd*  m™  of  about  twenty  f.miU.  lake  il..«.  m 
;;.Vt"u:trt  upon  the  -at  aide  of  L  VVUl«..t^  r^v«>y 
k..>  Mnrad  out  their  term  of  yeara  in  the  II.  »•  i^ompwij, 
S/e  uEin  Sllnuir^d  become  an  induau.oua  and  thrlvtn, 
population. 

Jt  J.J."""'— ^«  Vi'i".  .•"""•^  rtf  S'<h» 

Th.  l«li.l»liT.  il.p«tui>Mit  u  »  eoMul  oC  iwl  tt"  !"•« 
rti   '.mb.».  ."  m.™  0...  ri.<r^,  tb.  ""»'»•'» 

The  aupreme  court  conaiala  of  one  judge,  t^**».°y  "V?/^ 
Urure.  and  hold.  hi.  olllce  four  ye-e.    They  h.v.  adopted 

"^oZn'^J^^^  l««o  eWtt  eount^e.  vi. :  Lewi.  V.„. 
^oil7.«nVam.hiU  Polk.  Qualily*  Claekanua,  and  Sham- 
rr  llr'^onV^irf-S^  *^  f^^^  «f  eounuy.about 
Kt'ewTiSs-VaLHiver.  that  along  the  northern  aide  of 
teluS!? '  Theee  two  countiee  eompriM  aU  the  temtory 
Borth  of  the  Columbia  river.  ,^„,—  .-..  «f 

CUteop  county  include,  thai  pert  of  the  «f«n»J  J'*"*  «/ 
Ih.  ««»w  of  U»«  «»"» "««•  of  mountain.,  end  from  the  mer 
l«llMo  Yam-hiU  county,  and  of  courae  include.  Aatoru,  Cletp 

""■JlSliJ'ci^niy  include,  the  territonr  bo«nd«l  on  the  north 
by^Sl3  on  the  ...t  by  the  ^Villamette ,  on  the  «.uth 
K  Ylm-hdU  .3  on  the  weet  iy  CUt«)p  e««»»y-  ,..,  .  . 
V«4.ai  eTty  i.  bo«nd«l  on  the  «,rth  »»y  *y»;^M»J 
UlilMrrthe  line  beiM  ebmit  ftfUen  mUee  aouth  of  Oregon 

Pfllk  oottBiy,  end  on  the  w«ii  by  the  Ooewi. 


116 


MVRNAI.  or  TRAmH  OVMI 


Polk  (•nnnly  l»  tMHindrd  on  ihn  north  by  Yam-Mil  r'unlT, 
on  the  eul  hv  {he  Willaroeit«,  on  tha  loulh  by  i)i'«  niLfornl* 
Unr,  and  on  (K«  wfat  bv  th«  Paclde  neaan. 

Claekanita  vounty  ia  boundMi  on  lh«  north  by  th«  Colum- 
bia, on  ih«  out  by  thn  Rix-ky  mountaina,  on  the  aouth  by 
ShaiiuKiip  rounty,  and  on  llm  weat  by  iha  WiUainctia,  Inelo* 
dinjt  (Irrgon  city. 

Hhampoic  county  ia  bounded  on  tha  north  by  Clackaniia 
nraniy.  on  tha  eaat  by  tha  Roi^kv  mountaina,  on  tha  aouth  by 
California,  and  on  tha  waat  by  tha  Willametla. 

The  country  will,  without  doubt,  ba  diTidml  into  at  laaat 
thran  atataa.  Ona  auta  will  include  all  tha  country  north  o( 
the  Columbia  ri»er.  Nature  haa  marked  out  the  bonndariea. 
Another  alata  will  include  all  that  rmintry  aouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia rl»er  to  the  California  line,  and  weal  of  the  Caacada 
range  of  mountaina.  Thia  country,  howeTcr,  ia  large  enough 
to  fi)rm  two  alatca.  The  country  eaat  of  the  Caacade  range, 
extending  to  the  Rocky  mountaina,  and  between  the  Columbia 
and  Cuiirornin,  would  make  another  atate.  Thia  would  includt 
more  territory  than  all  the  remainder  5  but  It  would  cow  all 
that  »aat  barren  region  of  country  which  can  never  he  inhab- 
ited by  tha  white  man.  Tha  wealem  portion  of  thia  aectioii 
ia  fertile.  Tha  line  douhtleaa  would  be  eatabliahed  between, 
leaving  tha  eaatarn  portion  aa  Oregon  territory,  for  future  gai^ 
anttiona  to  diapoae  of. 

Tha  country  now  containa  over  aix  thouaand  white  inhabil> 
anta  t  and  tha  emigration  thia  year,  orer  land,  will  b«  about 
aavantean  hundred  aoula,  and  that  by  water  will  probably  equal 
it,  which  will  incraana  v.  .>*«r  to  near  ten  thouaand.  It 
piajr  be  a  aafa  calculation  i  i    »n  tha  nuar^tr  for  the  ftial 

of  January,  1847,  at  I  ■  '       '  1  •oula. 

The  aattlara  are  lalwu.....  jndei  great  diaadvantagea  on  w- 
eount  of  not  being  able  to  obuin  a  auflleiant  amount  of  farminf 
imf^emenU.  The  early  aattlara  were  aupplied  at  tha  Hmlaon 
Bay  Company'a  atore,  and  at  pricea  much  leaa  than  thoaa  nov 
charged  for  the  aama  arUolea.  At  that  time  tha  aupply  waa 
equd  to  the  demand;  but  ainoa  tha  tide  of  amifraUon  haa 
turned  ao  atrongly  to  thia  region,  the  demand  ia  much  fraalar 
than  the  aupplv.  Thia  may  ba  aaid  of  almoat  arary  kind  of 
gooda  or  merehandla*.  Tha  aupply  of  |ooda  in  tha  handa  of 
tha  Amaricmn  marehanta  haa  bean  vary  limited,  being  tha  ram* 
naat  of  eai|oaw  ihippad  round  upon  that  coaat,  mora  for  th« 


ovm 

»  by  Ynm-MI!  cuml'' 

ouih  by  lilt  '^iKfornU 

lan 

north  by  th«  OolttiB- 

lint,  on  ih«  louUi  by 

Iha  WiUainctM,  Inolo* 

I  north  by  CUckamia 
talna,  on  iha  Mnilh  bj 
■mettt. 

dividftd  into  tt  Inst 
I  th«  rounlry  north  o( 
pd  out  (ha  bnnndiriM. 
ntry  aouth  of  the  Co- 
I  wnt  of  thfi  CiMad« 
Mr«rr>r,  ia  largs  •nough 
at  the  Caacade  ranfe, 
betwenn  ihe  Cnliimbia 
i>.  Thia  would  include 
>)ut  it  would  cover  all 
\i  can  nevpr  he  inhab* 
portion  of  thia  aection 
I  eatabliahed  bftween, 
rriiory,  for  future  gen- 

[louaand  white  inhabit* 
er  land,  will  b«  about 
ter  will  probably  equal 
laar  ten  tho;iaand.  It 
ie  num^'ff  for  the  ftiat 
ula. 

t  diaadvantagea  on  ao- 
lent  amount  of  farming 
upplied  at  tba  Hndaon 
rh  leaa  than  thooe  nov 

time  the  aupply  waa 
ide  of  emigranon  haa 
mand  ia  much  graalcr 

almoet  erary  kind  of 
gooda  in  tha  haiida  of 
timitad,  baing  th«  i«m« 
at  eoaat,  mora  for  th* 


THR  IIOCHV  MOlNTAlMa. 


IIT 


parpoaa  of  uaaOng  with  the  Indiana,  than  with  the  euiuralort 
of  ina  aoil.  .  .  ,. 

(Ireat  complainia  have  been  m«Ja  bv  the  intrthanta  tradinf 
In  that  quartrr,  that  ili«y  were  not  able  to  compete  with  U>a 
Hudaon  Hay  tloinpany  i  and  ihia  ia  the  cry  a»«n  at  homej 
but  the  fact  is,  the  prirea  were  much  lower  before  iheae  Amer- 
iean  merthanta  went  into  the  country  than  they  now  are. 
Their  mwle  of  dealing  ia  to  aak  whatever  »»»cir  avarice  d*. 
manda.  and  the  neceaeiiiee  of  the  purrhaaar  will  haar.     And 
not  h«ing  a«li«ticd  with  an  op*n  «eld,  they  have  petitioned  the 
Hudaon  Hay  Oompany  u,  nut  a  higher  price  jpon  their  goo<K 
■a  they  were  aelling  lower  than  the  Ami-ricari  mi^rchanta  wienaa 
to  aall.     In  accordance  with  thia  requeat.  ihn  II.  B.  Company 
raiaed  the  priofl  of  gooda  H)hm  told  to  m  Amtriem,  but  aold 
diem  at  thi  old  prirea  to  Britiah  eubjecte.     Thia  arrangement 
wae  cmtinuoil  for  two  yearaj  but  an  American  can  now  por* 
ehaae  at  the  Ibrt  aa  cheap  aa  any  one.     Thaea  facU  1  obtained 
from  varioui.  nourcea,  ^nd  when  appriaed  of  the  pricee  of  gooda 
in  that  ooimtry.  they  are  not  ao  hard  to  be  believed. 

I  paid  for  a  pair  of  $toga  ehoaa,  made  in  one  of  the  aaatem 
atatea,  and  a  vary  common  article,  four  doliara  and  fifty  centa ; 
for  a  common  coarae  cotton  (lag  handkerchief,  which  can  ba 
had  in  Cincinnati  for  five  or  l«n  canta, /f/Ty  wnta.    The  price 
of  calico  rangee  from  thirty-ona  to  aighty^avan  and  a  half 
centa  a  yard ;  common  red  flannel  one  dollar  and  nity  centa 
per  yard;  a  box  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  parouaaion  cape, 
two  dolUra  and  fifty  ranta  j  coaraa  boola,  aaatem  made,  aix  to 
eight  doliara ;  ealMtm  from  tan  to  Iwalva  dollar*  j  coaraa  halt 
hoaa,  one  doUar  t  dry  gooda  ganarally  ranginf  with  the  above 
pricea.   Iron  wae  aelling  at  twelve  and  a  half  centa  per  pound. 
Toola  of  all  kinda  are  very  high  j  ao  that  whatever  inay  be 
aaM  againat  iheeorapany,  for  putting  down  the  pricea  to  deatroy 
competiiton  by  breaking  up  other  merchanta,  cannot  be  •'  aua- 
tained  by  the  faeta  of  the  caae."   That  thev  prevent  them  from 
raiaing  the  pricea  there  ia  no  doubt,  and  if  ttie  American  raw. 
ohanta  had  the  field,  clear  of  oompeUUon,  the  pricee  would  be 
double  what  they  now  are.    They  have  not  capital  to  enable 
then  to  keep  up  a  aupply,  nor  to  purchaae  the  aurplul  of  the 
country.  The  Hadaon  Bay  Ooroiwny  are  the  onlv  purchaaera 
to  any  extent,  for  there  are  no  othara  who  have  the  naoeeaanr 
machinery  to  manufiMJtara  wheat,  which  ia  the  ataple  of  the 
Moatij  tt  pteaent.  The  AmeikMi  BMrehaDH  buy  »  nw  flab. 


118 


JOU»H..,L  OF  TKAVEL8  OVW 


hidaa,  and  limber ;  but  in  such  limited  quanUties  as  to  be  of 
very  little  advantage  t.  the  country. 

A  few  American  merchania,  wiUi  a  Utile  capital,  weald  give 
an  impulse  to  trade,  encounge  the  setlleru,  make  it  a  prodlabla 
bnaincM  to  liiemaelvea,  and  add  much  ic  the  eharaeter  or  the 
country.  There  is  ecarcely  any  branch  of  buaineea  that  might 
not  be  carried  on  oueceasfully  in  Orecon.  Flouring  mille,  t^-w- 
milla,  carding  maohinea,  Atlling  and  doth  dying,  tin  ahops,  pot- 
teries, taoyarda,  dM.,  Ite.,  would  all  be  profitable  t  and  m  trutli 
they  are  all  much  needed  in  the  eountiy. 

The  price  of  a  flour  barrel  ia  one  dollar;  that  of  eommon 
■plit-bottom  chain  twenty-four  dollatfl  per  doaec ;  a  eommon 
dining  table  without  vamiah,  fourteen  dollars  t  half  solio|[  a 
pair  of  shoes  or  boots,  two  dollars ;  oottiDf  and  splitting  rails, 
one  dollar  and  twenty-five  cents  per  hundred  i  eighteen  inch 
shinj{les,  four  dollsrs  and  fiAy  cents  per  thouaand  t  enttin^  cord 
wood,  from  serenty-five  cents  to  one  dollar  per  eord ;  carpen- 
ter's wages  from  two  to  three  dollars  per  day ;  laborer's  from 
one  to  two  dollars  per  ok/  i  plough  irona  fiAy  cents  per  pound  t 
slacking  a  plough,  from  four  to  six  dollars.    Wheat,  eighty 
cento  per  bushel ;  potatoes  fifty  cento ;  com  sixty-two  and  a 
half  eento ;  oato  fifty  cento ;  beef  four  to  six  cento  per  pound  < 
pickled  salmon  by  the  barrel,  nine  to  twelve  dollars  for  ahip- 
ment ;  work  catde  are  from  seventy-five  to  om  hundred  dollars 
per  yoke ;  cows  from  twenty-fiv«t  to  fifty  doUara  each ;  Amer- 
ican work  horses  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred 
dollars.    I  hive  never  heard  ct  any  sheep  being  soM,  but  pre- 
sume they  would  biing  from  five  to  ten  dollars.    A  tailor  will 
ehaige  from  six  to  twelve  dollars  for  making  a  dress  eoat  Hogs 
are  high,  though  there  aeema  to  be  plenty  of  them  in  the  oouii- 
try.    The  common  kinds  of  poultry  are  plenty.    It  is  a  sin- 
gular fttet  that  the  honey  bee  is  not  found  in  the  Oregon  torrid 
tory,  neither  wild  nor  domesticated.  Beef  hides  are  twadollim 
each ;  a  chopping  axe  from  four  and  a  half  to  six  dollars ;  a 
drawing  knife,  three  to  five  dollars;  handsaws,  six  dollars ( 
cross-cut  saws,  eight  to  twelve  dollars ;  miU-eaws,  twenty-five 
dollars.    Tnere  is  but  little  hoUow  ware  ia  the  country.    No 
stationery  of  any  kind  could  be  had  when  I  was  there.    The 
people  ara  in  mat  need  of  school  books ;  9ome  scotions  being 
destitute  <tf  senools  in  coaseqaonce  of  not  beiiu;  able  to  pro* 
cure  books.    Good  teachers  are  alao  much  needed. 

I  had  espeeted  to  find  the  wintnts  much  more  seven  than 
they  turned  oot  to  be.    I  had  no  thwmoroetw,  and  no  mems 


IVES 

quanUties  as  to  be  of 

le  oapttal,  weald  give 
rw,  make  it  a  prodtablo 
:  the  ehaneter  or  the 
ar  buaineea  that  mif  ht 
Flouring  millf,  vtm- 
dying,  tin  shopi,  pot- 
rofilable  t  and  m  inilli 

• 

liar;  that  of  eommon 
ir  doaec;  a  eonunoa 
ioUan  I  half  aoliof^  a 
in;  and  spUtting  raiU, 
ndradi  eighteen  inch 
houaand ;  enttin^  cord 
liar  per  cord ;  cupen* 
r  day ;  laborer'*  trom 
fiAy  cento  per  pound; 
llara.  Wheat,  eighty 
com  sixty-two  and  a 
»  six  cento  per  pound  \ 
reWe  dollars  for  ship- 
to  on^.  hundred  dollars 
r  doUara  each ;  Amer* 
fifty  to  two  hundred 

3>  being  sold,  but  pre- 
ollars.  A  tailor  will 
ing  a  dress  eoat  Hogs 
y  of  them  in  the  couo* 
e  plenty.  It  is  a  sin- 
id  in  the  Oregon  torri- 
itf  hides  are  twa  dollars 
half  to  six  dollars  t  s 
BBd^iws,  six  dollars  ( 
miU<«aws,  twenty-fiTO 
9  ia  the  country.  No 
«D  I  was  tbert).  The 
i;  9ome  scotions  being 
not  being  able  to  pro* 
och  needed, 
inch  more  sersra  than 
ometw,  and  no  meins 


u■^■'■^^^l.fr^rlr^ 


TUK  ROCKT  MOUNTAINS. 


llf 


of  aaeertaining  the  degrees  of  heat  and  cold,  but  I  kept  an 
account  of  the  wet  and  dry  weather,  cloudy,  clear,  tie.,  Ac, 
eommeaeing  on  ihe  first  day  of  NoTember  and  ending  on  the 
firji  oC  March,  which  was  the  day  I  eurted  on  my  return  to 
the  United  Stales.  . 

The  1st  and  Sd  days  of  No»ember  were  clear;  8d  rainy  i 
then  clear  until  the  1  Ith ;  ekwdy  unHI  the  18tK.  Then  cloudy, 
with  slight  showers  of  rain  until  the  aoth ;  2iBt  and  22nd  cle«r ; 
9ld  ramy:  94th  and  26th  were  cloudy,  but  no  rain;  the 
weather  was  then  clear  until  the  29th,  wh^n  it  again  clouded  up. 
80th  of  Nofember  and  first  of  December  were  cloudy ;  2d 
and  8rd  clear,  with  frosty  nighto.  On  the  4nh  a  miatv  nin  j 
Sth  and  «th  were  cloudy ;  from  7'h  to  10th  clear  and  cool, 
with  frost  every  night.  On  the  1  Ith  it  ramed  nearly  all  day, 
and  on  the  12th  about  half  the  day.  13th  and  Utii  wer« 
cloudy.    From  the  16th  to  22d  clear  and  pleamnt,  with  frosty 

ighto ;  it  thawed  through  the  day  in  the  ion  all  that  froie  at 
night,  but  in  the  shade  remained  froxen.  From  the  22d  to  24th 
cloudy,  with  ahowers  of  drixiling  rain?  26th.  2«th  and  27ih 
rain  nearly  all  the  time,  but  not  very  copiousV- ;  tlie  morning 
were  foggy.  The  28ih  and  49lh  were  clear,  but  verjr  foggy  m 
the  forepart  of  the  day ;  80th  and  Slat  rain  about  iiaii  the  time. 
From  the  1st  to  8d  of  January  it  was  squally,  with  frequmt 
showera  of  rain :  4th  cloady,  but  no  rain ;  5th  rained  nearly 
all  day.  From  the  6th  to  the  12th,  clear  and  pleasant,  being 
uliffhtfy  fomy  in  the  mornings;  from  18ih  to  17th  rained  about 
half  eih liy,  and  nearly  all  the  night;  18th  and  l»lh,  c  oudy 
without  rain.  The  20th  and  2lBt,  alight  rain  nearly  aU  the 
time;  22d  waa  cloudy;  28d  and  24lh,  rain  about  half  of  each 
day ;  26th  rained  aU  day,  26th  cloudy,  without  rtin,  27lh  wee 
rainy  some  heavy  ahowera ;  28th  was  clear;  20th,  80th  and 

81st,  were  shower  jnd  Mastering,  raining  about  half  the  time, 

**Th?liiof  February  was  dear;  2d  doudy,3d  rainy;  4th 
tad  Sth  were  » little  eloady,  but  pleasant;  6ih  and  7th,  a  few 
alight  showers;  Sth  and  8th  rainy  and  quite  cool ;  snow  was 
seen  on  the  lower  peaka  of  the  Coaat  range  of  mountainB,  but 
none  in  the  valley.  The  lOth  was  cloudy,  at  night  a  htdfflrost ; 
1 1th  wes  rain> ;  Itth  and  ISth  rained  nil  the  lime ;  14th  and 
16th  were  nearly  clear,  with  light  fcoeto.  The  weather  r^ 
niained  clear  untU  the  28rd,  witi  light  firoato,  but  not  eoM 
•ffoggh  to  freMe  the groand;  94ih  doudy;  2&th  eleu;  aOth, 
SvCnd  Mth  laiBMl  att  tbe  time. 


JOURNAL  OF  T«AVEW  OVW 

nwt  of  Mtrch,  T.ined  h.lf  *•  d.y »  »d  «ip«f?;'J,"j^ 

tw«ni;d«y.th.ti.m«.dn^riy^ 

dayi  ih«t  wtre  detr,  or  neatly  •<»»»•  """T  .       ^^  j^^^ 
w/re  cloudy  .nd  -h^J-'X:  JJ^tJ^jl^jCkiJout 
•II  the  day  without  having  own  weu    ""~'.       ^  ^l^  j^_ 
I  ahould  think  thai  two-tbirda  of  tho  ram  lou  auniif  *w 
"%  «»w  fall  in  th.  .dloy.,  nor  '•"  »»«;•  f^-^^?'^ 

inch  in  thickneaa.  The  »t»^f«»^"'  ?^"  v!^or  a  few  dayai 
,i«i  ao  high  aa  to  make  it  drfBoult  to  get  .^i  IZ^Sb^Xm 
but  they  ire  ahort,  and  aoon  "«  *'*^^^¥JJ«Wl•ll• 
u  vet  been  beatowed  on  Uw  public  roada.     rje  wi'JJ'J'J 

for  wtttle,  I  puwhaaed  ae»eral  head  of  ^^'^  **.  "t'^":L-^ 

for  that  porpoae.  and  at  «wo  o'clock  P.  M.  •J^^j^i,^ 
though  anxioua  to  b.  on  the  r^y^J*!}^^^ 
with  conaiderable  reluetanoe.  I  had  fMfnfJJt  JW™,*J2 
gon  kind  ind  hoapitoMe.  and  my  «squamt««i  wiA  tbw^ 

Seen  of  the  moat  friendly  ''^^•^1' m^^tS^H^ 
who  had  traveled  throtigh  to  0«|«»  •*"  wmnmmtv,  vw^ 


OVIW 

\  'zd  eioadjr,  8<1  nunwl 
^making  in  all  aboul 
t  day,  and  »boat  forty 
rtinaiiid«ofih«d»yt 

of  tlM  day*  Mt  down 
Boald  hay*  worlMdout 

Muoh  of  tiM  tUM  U 
ilaar  through  tha  day. 
I  nin  f«U  dorinc  tt»« 

I  there  fioM  more  than 
ih  orer  a  qnartar  of  an 
d  m,mm/m"  ■ometunae 
t  aboat  for  a  few  davai 
.  But  little  labour  haa 
n^.  The  Wilttmetle 
nly  aU  the  traTeliof  ie 
rodueta  of  the  eoontry 
■  ean  be  eonly  bridged, 
[It  little  dif&eulty  in  trv 

ent  on  my  relnm  to  the 
party  of  aeven  pareona 
•  enpeeted  to  overtake 
BW  head  of  lame  catde 
man  named  Craiff,  who 
la  '.!ie  Indiana  in  Uiat  n- 
^  they  wiahed  to  trade 
r  eetlle  to  trade  for  lior> 
howoter.hedpwwhaaed 
with  eeveral  horree  and 
!R  taken  ahead  on  the  Sd 
ug  the  Columbia  river  at 
if  the  Cohimbia,  and  re« 
ronle  we  would  avoid  the 

Mt  which  we  had  bought 
>.  M.  ahovedofft  and  ah 
»*,  yet  1  left  Umijce 
found  the  people  of  0» 
inamtaaoe  with  them  had 
.  Many  of  the  penpne 
iirltltMkiMUa^ntOir 


■ootY  McwirrAuni 


Ifll 


gon  city.  Attaehmenle  had  been  formed  upon  the  ruad.  which 
when  about  to  leave,  Memed  like  parting  with  our  own  fami- 
Uei.  We  were  about  to  retrace  (he  long  and  dreary  journey 
which  the  year  before  had  been  performed,  and  again  to  twave 
the  privationa  and  dangers  incident  to  such  a  jouruev.  Trav 
eliiig  aa  we  expected  to  do  on  horseback,  we  could  not  lak* 
thoM  convenieneea  so  necessary  for  comfort,  as  when  aeconf 
panied  with  wagons ;  but  we  bade  adieu  to  the  good  people 
of  Oregon,  and  rapidly  floated  down  the  Wiliaroette  to  the 
town  of  Portland,  twelve  miiea  below  the  falls.  It  com* 
nienoed  raining  quite  fast,  and  we  hove  to,  and  procured  quar> 
tera  with  Mr.  Bell,  one  of  the  emigrants  who  had  recently 
settled  at  thia  place.  Thia  will  probably  be  a  town  of  some 
consequence,  as  it  oeoupiea  a  handsome  aite,  and  is  at  tha 
head  of  ship  navigation.  Mr.  Petigrew  of  New  York  is  tha 
pro|metor.    It  cootinned  raiKl  .4  nearly  all  night 

In  the  morning  the  rain  abated ;  we  again  took  the  oars, 
and  in  two  hours  and  a  half  reached  tlie  town  of  Linton.  Hera 
are  a  few  log  huta,  ereeied  among  the  heavy  timber ;  but  it 
will  not,  probably,  ever  be  much  of  a  town.  A  great  portion 
of  tlie  emigrania  iravd^Bg  down  the  Columbia  land  at  this 
place,  and  take  the  road  to  Quality  plaina,  which  are  abont 
twenty-five  miles  distant;  but  the  roM  ia  a  bad  one. 

At  8  o'clock  P.  M.  we  arrived  at  fort  Vancouver,  where  we 
made  a  few  purehaaes  to  complete  our  outfit,  and  then  rowed 
up  the  river  two  mike  and  a  lalf,  and  encamped.  Here  we 
found  the  party  with  o«r  horses.  The  Indians  had  atolen  two 
horaee,  aeveral  trail  rapea,  dee.    The  day  waa  showery. 

On  the  7th  we  aeeended  about  eighteen  milea,  to  the  mouth 
of  a  stream  coming  in  upon  the  north  side  of  the  river,  aboui 
one  hundred  yards  in  width,  having  ita  source  in  Mount  St. 
Helen.  Here  a  commencement  of  a  settlement  had  been  made 
by  Simmons,  Parker,  and  others,  and  abont  a  dosen  buildinca 
erected,  but  were  now  abandoned  on  account  of  its  being  sub- 
ject to  he  overflowed  by  the  annual  high  freshele  of  the  Co* 
lumbia  river.  The  soil  ie  good,  with  several  patehee  of  prairie. 
On  our  way  we  paaaed  the  srist  and  saw  mills  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company.  They  atand  immediately  upon  the  bank  of  the 
Colombia.  The  water  power  is  obtained  from  small  moun- 
tain atreams.  The  milla  are  six  and  eight  milea  above 
the  Ibrt.  Several  iaianda  in  the  river  mi|^t  be  Uvetd  and  suo> 
cessfuUy  eukivated.  The  day  was  chwdy,  with  occasional 
showers  of  rain,  and  atm*  haiL 
II 


-r- 


^WMMMMMMM 


133 


JOURNAL  OF  TKAVBM  OVER 


On  the  8lh  we  advanced  alxteen  or  eighteen  rnilce.     Fol 
the  irrealer  part  of  the  way.  the  river  ia  hemmed  in  by  higli, 
oramy,  rocky  cliffa.     At  one  point,  called  Cape  Horii,  the 
fooEi  project  over  the  atream,  preaentinjr  a  huge  maaa  of  black 
looking  rocka  of  several  hundred  feet  in  height.   Home  of  them 
■eem  to  have  broken  and  alid  from  their  former  poailion,  and 
now  sund  in  detached  columns  erect  in  the  deep  atream,  pre- 
senting a  grand  and  terrific  appearance.    At  several  points, 
streams  of  water  were  tumbling  more  than  a  thousand  feet  from 
crag  to  crag,  and  fulling  into  the  river  in  broken  sheets.     Upon 
one  of  these  columns  sunds  a  solitory  pine  tree,  and  upon  the 
topmost  branch  sat  a  large  bald-headed  •»«!«•  .^^e  rowed 
nearly  under  it,  when  one  of  our  men  took  his  rifle  and  Hred, 
and  down  came  the  eagle,  striking  the  water  not  more  than 
ten  feet  from  the  boat.    A  wing  had  been  broken,  and  we  dis- 
patched him  with  our  oars ;  he  measured  ovw  seven  feet  from 
tip  to  tip  of  the  wings.    Round  Uiis  point  t»w  wate?  is  some- 
times very  rough.    BoaU  hara  been  compeUed  to  lay  to,  for 
two  weeks,  on  account  of  the  roughness  of  the  water.     iM 
day  was  clear.  ., 

Upon  the  0th  we  progressed  about  ten  miles.    Seven  milM 
brought  us  to  the  Toot  of  the  rapids,  odled  the  Cascade  falls, 
and  here  for  five  miles  the  river  is  hemmed  m  and  emitrac- 
ted  to  not  more  than  three  hundred  yards  in  width,  and  nins 
with  tremendous  velocity.     We  were  oompeUed  lo  eardtUt 
our  boat,  and  sometimes  lift  it  over  the  rooks  for  several  rods. 
It  is  not  easy  to  form  an  idea  of  the  difficulties  to  be- encoun- 
tered, in  ascending  this  rapid.    Late  in  the  evening  we  en- 
camped,  after  a  day  of  hard  work  in  wtdmg,  pulling  and  liftr 
ing.    It  rained  nearly  all  night.  .     .    ,  .        _        __  _^ 
On  the  10th  we  arrived  at  the  head  of  the  portage,     i  hree 
times  we  were  compeUed  to  unload  our  boat,  and  carry  our 
effects  over  the  rocks  along  the  shore;  and  »t  the  main  falls 
the  distance  of  the  portage  is  nearly  one  mile.    At  night  we 
had  completed  the  portage,  and  were  all  safe  above  the  faUs. 

At  the  foot  of  the  rapids  we  met  several  fcmilies  of  emi- 
srants,  who  had  been  wintering  at  the  Dalles..  One  of  Uiem 
had  traveled  the  most  of  the  way  with  us,  but  being  unwilling 
to  travel  as  fast  as  we  wished,  had  not  arrived  in  time  to  get 
through  before  winter  set  in.  In  this  family  was  «  young 
woman,  who  so  captivated  one  of  our  party,  that  he  turned 

back  with  them.  .  ,       „        .       .  . 

On  the  nth  we  made  but  about  eight  miles;  tho  wind  eaus- 


THB  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


123 


itMn  milci.     Fot 
mmed  in  by  liigli, 

Cape  Horn,  the 
luge  mau  of  black 
ht.  Home  of  ihem 
rmer  position,  and 

deep  ■troam,  pre* 
At  Mveral  pointa, 
thouaand  feet  from 
ken  aheele.  Upon 
tree,  and  upon  the 
lagle.  We  rowed 
:  hia  rifle  and  fired, 
ter  not  more  than 
itoken,  and  we  dia* 
ver  aeven  feet  from 
the  water  ia  aome- 
leUed  to  lajr  to.  for 
»f  the  water.    The 

nilee.  Seven  milee 
I  the  Caaeade  falla, 
aed  in  and  contrao- 
I  in  width,  and  runa 
impelled  to  cotdMt 
tka  for  aereral  roda. 
lultiea  to  be'eneoun- 
the  eToning  we  en- 
ing,  pulling  and  lift* 

Ihe  portage.  Three 
boat,  and  carry  our 
nd  at  the  main  falla 
mile.  At  night  we 
afe  above  the  falla. 
iral  toiliee  of  eni- 
allca..  One  of  them 
,  bat  being  anwilling 
rrived  in  time  to  get 
famity  waa  *  young 
»arty,  that  he  tnmed 

uIm;  UMwinde«u> 


ing  a  swell  that  rendered  boating  dangeroua.  The  day  waa 
clear,  and  at  night  there  was  a  hard  frott. 

We  progressed  twelve  or  fourteen  miles  on  the  12th ;  the 
day  was  cloudy.  Here  we  had  designed  crossing  the  river 
with  our  horses. 

The  morning  of  the  18lh  waa  too  windy  to  awtm  our  horses 
over.  We  attempted  to  take  them  up  the  north  aide  of  the 
river;  but  after  clambering  about  three  miles,  we  were  com- 
pelled to  halt,  the  clMTa  being  ao  abrupt  that  we  were  unable  to 
paaa  them  with  horses.     We  remained  at  thia  place  through 

On  the  morning  of  the  14th  the  wmd  had  eo  abated  that  we 
eould  awim  our  animals.  Wo  commenced  by  taking  four  at  a 
time;  two  upon  each  aide  of  the  boat,  with  four  men  rowmg. 
In  thia  manner  by  ten  o'clock  A.  M.,  all  had  crossed.  The 
water  was  very  eold.  The  width  of  the  river  at  thia  place,  la 
more  than  a  mile.  The  party  with  the  horses  then  took  the 
trail,  and  we  saw  no  more  of  them,  until  we  arrived  at  the 
Dalles,  which  we  reached  on  Use  16th.  Here  we  found  five 
of  the  party  who  had  atarted  a  week  in  advance  of  us.  Two 
of  their  eompMiy  had  gone  on  to  Whitman's  station.  We 
■old  our  boat  to  the  Miasionariea,  and  remained  here  unUl  the 
morning  of  the  l»th,  endeavoring  to  hire  and  boy  horses  to 
pack  our  efiecta  to  Dr.  Whilman'a.  There  were  hundreds  of 
horses  belonging  to  the  Indiana,  but  their  ownera  knew  our 
situation,  and  wialied  to  extort  a  high  price  from  ua.  We  ao 
arranged  onr  effeeU  as  to  pack  them  on  the  mules  and  horaea 
we  had,  and  we  ourselves  traveled  on  foot. 

On  the  evening  of  Uie  18th,  we  packed  up  and  proceeded 
two  miles,  when  we  encamped.  Two  Indiana  came  and 
encamped  with  ua.  In  the  night  our  mules  began  to  show 
signs  that  «  thief  waa  approaching.  The  guard  apprised  ua 
of  it,  and  we  prepared  our  arms.  Our  two  Indian  frienda 
seeing  that  we  were  prepared  to  chaatise  thieves,  rouaed  up 
and  oommsneed  running  around  tlie  camp,  and  hallooing  most 
lustUy;  probably  to  give  warning  that  it  was  dangerous  to 
approach,  aa  they  soon  disappeared. 

During  the  day  ws  had  aeen  some  sport  As  we  were  near- 
ly all  ffsen  in  the  buainess  of  packing,  and  many  of  our  ani- 
mala  were  quite  wild,  we  frequenUy  had  running  and  kicking 
'•sprees,"  scattering  the  contento  of  our  packe  over  the  prairie, 
and  in  some  cases  imaging  and  losing  them.  In  one  «nsUnce, 
whOe  traveling  along  a  narrow,  winding  path  upon  the  side  of 


I 


It4 


JOURNAL  OF  TRAVBI4I  OVFR 


I  i 


a  bluff,  a  pack  upon  a  mule't  back  becamo  looae  5  he  mule  com- 
menred  kicking,  and  ihe  pack,  saddle  and  all  rolled  off,  and  aa 
the  irail  rope  wus  lied  faat  to  the  mule'a  neck,  and  then  around 
the  pack,  it  dragged  the  mule  after  it.  The  bank  for  .ix  or  eight 
hundred  fpet  wua  to  sleep  that  a  man  could  acarcely  stand 
upright.  The  mule  was  sometimea  ahead  of  the  P«cK.  »« 
others  the  pack  was  ahead  of  the  inule.  At  length,  sfter 
tumbling  about  one  thousand  feet,  to  near  a  perpendicular  ledg« 
of  rocks,  they  stoppeil.  Six  feet  farther  would  ha»e  plunged 
them  o»er  a  cliff  of  two  hundred  feet,  into  the  river.  We 
arrived  at  and  crossed  Falls  river,  receiving  no  other  damage 
than  wetting  a  few  of  our  packs.  We  encamped  two  miles 
above  Falls  river,  having  traveled  about  tiiteen  milea.  The 
weather  was  clear  and  warm.  We  traveled  lewurwly  ilong, 
nothing  remarkable  occurring;  but  as  some  of  the  party  were 
unaccustomed  to  walking,  they  soon  showed  signs  of  fatigue 
and  sore  feet.  We  were  often  visited  by  a  set  of  half-eiarved 
and  naked  Indians. 

On  the  26lh  we  reached  Fort  Wallawalla,  or  Fort  Ne« 
Percfe,  as  it  is  sometimes  called.    Thie  fort  stand,  upon  the 
east  side  of  the  Columbia,  and  upon  Ihe  north  bank  of  th« 
Wallawalla  river.    We  went  about  three  fourths  of  a  mile  up 
the  Wallawalla  river,  and  encamped.     Near  ns  was  a  vUlwje 
of  the  Wallawalla  Indians,  with  their  prineipal  chief.     Ihu 
old  chief  wae  not  very  friendly  to  Americans.    The  aeason 
before,  a  party  of  the  Wallawallas  had  visited  California,  by 
invitation  of  Capt.  Suter;  and  whilst  'h;"' ■,«*»**"•'?;, "^^ 
about  some  horses,  and  the  son  of  the  old  chief  wae  killed  m 
the  fort.    The  Indiana  left  Immediately,  and  aa  Suter  claimed 
to  be  an  American,  the  chiefs  feelings  were  excited  against 
all  Americans.      He    had   showed   hosUle    demonattations 
asainst  a  party  of  American*  the  aummer  previoiw;  and  when 
we  arrived,  we  were  told  that  he  was  surly,  and  not  dispoaed 
to  be  friendly.    The  graiing  about  the  <»mp  waa  poor,  aod 
we  sent  a  few  men  with  the  animals  to  the  hills,  three  milea 
distent,  to  graie.    Near  night  we  obeerved  quite  a  atir  among 
the  Indians.     We  gave  a  signal  to  drive  in  the  horaee;  t:i»y 
■oon  came  in,  and  we  picketed  them  near  the  eamp.    Ae  eoon 
a*  it  was  dark  the  Indiana  conmeneed  singing  and  teneing, 
aceompanied  with  an  instrument  similar  to  a  drum,  and  giving 
moat  hideoua  yelle,  running  to  and  fro.     We  began  to  suapeet 
that  they  meditated  an  attack  upon  our  eamp;  and  we  aocof- 
dingly  prepared  to  meet  them  by  teiiding  a  forttftemtion  of 


u 


OVKR 

loose ;  the  inu1«  coni« 
I  all  rolled  oflT,  and  ai 
eck,  and  than  around 
thank  Tor  six  or  eigiit 
could  scarcely  atand 
ie«i  of  the  pack,  at 
le.  At  length,  alter 
a  perpendicular  ledge 
would  have  plunged 
into  the  river.  We 
ving  no  other  damage 
encamped  two  miles 
riiteen  miles.  The 
veled  leisurely  along, 
ime  of  the  party  were 
)wed  signs  of  fatigue 
^  a  set  of  half-eiarved 

lawtHa,  or  Fort  Nex 
I  fort  stands  upon  the 
le  north  bank  of  the 
i  fourths  of  a  mile  up 
Near  us  was  a  villa^ 
[>rineipal  chief.  This 
■rieans.  The  scMon 
visited  California,  by 
lere,  i  diAeulty  aroee 
Id  chief  was  killed  m 
and  as  Suter  claimed 
were  excited  against 
ostile  demonstrattons 
)r  previous ;  Mid  when 
iirly,  and  not  disposed 
I  e«mp  was  poor,  and 

0  the  hills,  three  miles 
red  quite  a  stir  among 
e  in  the  horses ;  tb«y 
ir  the  eemp.    As  soon 

1  singing  and  dancing, 
to  a  drum,  and  giving 

We  began  to  suspect 
earap;  and  we  accor- 
ding a  fortifteation  of 


m  Hocrr  nouirrAiJia 


1S6 


our  ba«s«,  and  posting  a  sUong  guard.  We  remained  in  this 
J^o'siSTStil  day'lJighTwh.n  w.  packed  "P- "J  Uaveled  «J 
Ihe  Wallawalla  eight  or  ten  miles,  when  we  stopped,  cooked 
breakfast,  and  allowed  our  animals  to  graie,  ... 

Befow  siting,  the  old  chief  and  a  ?ew  of  h.s  .?"«"?•"•« 
mi  «..  »i««.  They  appeared  fr'«"?l'^  ?»'^,:»''."^fo^,''J^^: 
We  tave  them  some  provisions,  and  made  them  a  few  pres 
ZiM  5f  tobacco,  pipes,  Ac.     After  shooting  at  a  mark  with 
Teh  etto^n^rhim  of  our  skill,  we  conversed  on  v«.- 
OM  sublets,  among  which  the  death  of  his  son  was  men  loned, 
S  he  «p«-^  his  det.nnln.tion  to  go  to  California  Uu. 
Sion     We  parted,  he  and  his  people  to  Uieir  village,  and 
^m  nnnn  (Mif  HHite  to  Dr.  Whitman  s. 
"^  wHe^  El^ioined  by  a  party  of  Ne.  P.re6  Indian. ; 
among  whom  were  four  of  their  principal  chiefiu    Ellis  the 
mllt  chief  wa.  with  them.     He  speaka  very  good  English, 
ETi.  qo  te  tetelligenu     He  was  educated  at  the  Hujon'. 
Bay  cipany'-Xol.  on  Red  river.    They  traveled  and 
JSamS  wii  0.,  making  heavy  d.-a(V.  upon  our  provisions ; 

•hSr::;«tp«^  to  -pVish  *\^'^^^vi'*:,::x"'  s 

fraelr  We  encamped  on  a  brawjh  of  the  Wallawalla.  i  nis 
K  Lst  biutU'ul  Sley  of  good  land,  but  Umber  i.  limited  to 
a  fow  Cottonwood  and  willows  along  the  "i;?*™^.  .,^,  ..   . 

In  the  aftenwon  of  the  28ih  we  reached  Dr.  Whitman  s  sta- 
tion Hew  wTremainwi  until  the  gist,  when  m  company 
SS  fcSr  ?th^  "nd  the  Nea  Perc*  Indian.,  we  sUrt^J  for 
BmLw.  mi-imH-Mr.  Spalding  being  of  our  party.  The 
2mT£r  wrty  remained  at  Whitman's.  Our  ofcgeet  was  to 
SiSriS«;«d^xplore  the  country.  The  dUtance  from 
K:  Whitman's  to  Bp.l«liiig't  wa.  about  one  h«ndr«l  and  fifty 
SiI.i«.Dorth-w-tdi««»i'>»-  The  flmt  day  we  traveled  but 
STt  twenty-five  mUee,  over  a  moat  delightful  praine  ooumry. 
^•M»iUd  mi  a  beautiftil  clear  atieam  ooming  down  from 
!k.marMMWlun..  which  are  about twdve  mile. distant. 
T^^arS^iV  traveled  about  ifty-five  mUe.,  also 

om  a  delkhtW/wUiag.  P«»'««  •o""»^«  *T'"*.i"""iS 
SI!Ltfanmi.  lim>d  wiU,  timber,  and  affording  de.ir.ble 
iMa^  for  M/t^nmi.  The  aoU  i.  rich,  and  covered  with  an 
«SeE«LT3«a«.  Thl.  region  powewesgraaingadvan- 
SS^ir^oSTportion  of W^thTl  have  yet-een. 
TETif  wll?bhi.teriiig,  with  a  little  roow,  which  m.Hed  a. 

''oX'id  r^^  wn «rived  at  Mr.  Bidding'.  mi«ion. 


f. 


r 


f  I 


1«« 


JOURNAL  or  TRAVELa  OVKR 


which  it  upon  the  KonakoMkefi  or  CUar  Water,  and  aboal 
twenty  milea  above  ita  moulh  or  junction  with  Lewia'a  forit 
or  the  Columbia.  Ten  milea  from  our  camp  we  atniek  Lcwia'a 
fork,  and  proceeded  up  it  for  five  milea.  and  croaaed.  On  our 
way  up  we  paaaed  a  ledge  of  locka  of  fluted  columna,  two  or 
thrM  hundrod  feet  high.  The  blufTa  of  I^wia'a  fork  and  tha 
Kooakooakee  are  rery  high,  aometimea  more  than  three  thou«' 
aand  feet.    The  hilla  are  nearly  all  covered  with  graaa. 

Aa  the  time  I  could  remain  m  thia  region  would  not  eilow 
me  to  explore  it  aatiafactorily,  I  reqnealed  Mr.  Spalding  to 
fumiah  me  with  the  rv'.ult  of  hia  experience  for  ten  yeara  ia 
the  country.  He  very  kindly  complied,  and  the  following  ie 
the  information  obtained  from  him.*  Aa  he  goea  very  much 
into  detail,  it  ia  unneeeaaary  for  me  to  add  aoy  further  remark* 
here,  in  relation  to  thia  region  of  the  coaatry. 

We  remained  at  thia  miaaionary  eatabliahment  natil  the  10th 
of  April.  During  our  aUy,  we  heard  related  many  inoidenta 
common  to  a  mountain  life.  At  one  time,  when  Mr.  Bpaldinf 
waa  on  an  excuraion  to  one  of  the  neighboring  viU^ea,  aeoom* 
panted  by  aeveral  Indiana  and  their  wivea,  they  eapied  a  bear 
at  a  abort  diatanee  clambering  up  a  tree.  He  aaeended  thirty 
or  forty  feet,  and  halted  to  view  the  travelera.  A  tree  atanding 
near  the  one  upon  which  aat  the  bear,  with  limba  eoavenienlly 
aitoated  to  climb,  induced  Mr.  Spaldinc  lo  attempt  to  la$$o 
maater  brain.  He  accordii^y  prepared  Hpiarif  wilh  a  la»t0 
rope,  and  aaeended  the  tree  until  he  attainf  d  an  r  « lao  '^nial 
to  that  of  the  bean    He  then  cut  a  limb^  v<  »  of 

the  rope  upon  one  end,  and  endeavored  te  lead 

of  the  bear ;  but  aa  the  rope  approached  «.  .         -M!mk 

it  with  hia  paw,  and  aa  Mr.  S.  had  bat  oie  haml  it  houiy,  he 
could  not  aucceed,  the  weight  of  the  /ope  being  too  great 
He  called  to  aome  of  hia  Indian  frienda,  te  come  up  and  aa* 
aiat  him ;  but  none  aeemed  willing  to  riak  thenaelvee  ao  aeur 
the  formidable  animal.  At  length  one  of  the  eqnawa  cUmbed 
up,  and  held  tiie  alack  of  the  rope,  and  Mr.  B.  aacoeeded  in  alip- 
ping  the  nooae  over  bruin'a  head.  He  then  deaeended  fima 
the  tree,  and  aa  the  rope  extended  to  the  groood,  they  gave 
it  a  jerk,  and  down  came  the  bear,  which  fell  ia  aueh  a  way  as 
to  paaa  the  rope  over  a  large  limb,  thua  avapending  him  by 
the  neck. 
The  cattle  which  we  had  purchaaed  were  aeattered  over  um 

•8aa  AppMdix. 


>VRR 

lar  Water,  and  aboal 
m  with  Lewia'a  fork 
np  we  atniek  Lawia'a 
ind  croMcd.  On  our 
uted  columna,  two  or 
Lewia'a  fork  and  tha 
nore  than  throe  lhou< 
ired  with  graaa. 
{ion  would  not  allow 
lied  Mr.  Spalding  to 
lenoe  for  ten  yeara  in 
,  and  the  following  ia 
a  he  goea  very  much 
d  any  further  remarka 
aniry. 

iahment  nntil  the  10th 
»latml  many  incidente 
e,  when  Mr.  Spalding 
xnrtng  viU^ea,  aeoouH 
aa,  they  eapied  a  bear 
He  aacended  thirty 
ilera.  A  tree  atanding 
ith  limbe  eoBrenienlly 
r  to  attempt  to  lain 
I  Hoedr  wi\halw«e 
nrdaar      '(fao'^nMl 

r  Mad 

nM'hmi  'u  hoMty,  he 
<«pa  being  too  gnat. 
I,  to  come  up  ara  ae> 
lak  themaelTea  ao  near 
)f  the  aquawa  climbed 
r.  8.  aoceeeded  in  aUp- 
then  deaeended  firam 
he  growHl,  they  gave 
h  feU  in  each  a  way  as 
a  anapending  him  by 

irere  aeattered  over  torn 


TMB  »OaiY  MOVNTAlNt. 


vn 


..lain.  On  the  »d  they  were  brought  In.  and  'J«  ^^^'J^  fUl. 
Coght  the  whole  band,  agreeing  to  g.ve  ««•  ^"^-rj" 'Jj; 

foriher  up  the  Koo.koo.k«e.  but  1...  h""':'"-'*^  uZ  Yor  .ix 
S.  miaaion.  Elli.  ma.ie  arrangemenU  w.lh  J«  •»"*'^°'^i 
hor.e..anadJi.e.d.he.U.^u^^^^^^^^^^^^ 

K'S"  out  «tt;  wrtli^rlmeinder  of  tj.  »;-J  J". 
Z  ebaence  many  of  the  n-'i'"  """  »"  rlt,*td  St 
to  trade  for  the  cattle,  and  when  informed  Oiat «""  ^jJ^X 
Sem  all.  they  were  rery  much  di.ple«wd.  -nd  «:harged  EU« 
with  cot^niwing  with  the  whilea  againat  h'«  ?*«?»••  /"*'"* 

siiatK  .w"dro*rdo::rJ;'^^^^ 

Md  oatUe ;  if  courae  we  demanded  the  cattle ;   *«  Indiane 

drove  in  aome  horeee  to  trade,  and  before  "'«•"  ^•;~„„''2^ 
of  aU  bat  four  head  of  our  cattle,  one  yoke  of  oxen,  one  year 
Hmr  heifer,  end  a  yearling  calf.    The  oxen  belonged  to  me.    I 
Kiln  eharge^f  M?.  Spalding.  unUl  my  retun..    In  Ut^ 

•hirsrpJsiiieJforClni:^^^^       «'£ 

KTshTrk":^.  ^.  The  value  of  foorte- dollar.  m^n«ie 
would  boy  an  ordinary  horae }  if  it  uaa  an  entra  »»»•  J*™* 
AiM  m«i  would  be  Ued.    Four  \.l.nketa  waa  the  price  of 
;  K    None  of  the  Indian,  would  uh«  mnnay  except  EUw. 
In  SJthey  L  not  aeem  to  know  the  '•>««  of  "•pey. 

n^rmirTtaVat  thi.  pUce.  the  Indiana  flocked  in  from  all 
qoSST  It  Kt  JTdom'  that'  the  white.  vUit  thi.  pori^n  of 
SrSJntry.  and  the  Indian,  all  ««n.ed  anxiou.  ^  .••«.. 
The  h«»?  w«  literally  fi««l  f'^™  mornmg  until  n'ghtj  Jj 
meS,  wXn.  and  chUA^n.    They  .«  wually  muct  better 


nr 


( 


IM 


nvMAt  or  nu 


i| 


.  it 


■lad  thtn  any  other  tribe  omI  or  wm(  of  the  monntaini,  «r« 
quite  ckenly,  and  are  an  induatrkHM  people.  They  hare  made 
eooekterable  advitncea  ia  eullivatinf  the  aoti,  and  have  large 
drovoe  of  horaea,  ami  many  Af  iham  are  raiaing  large  herda  of 
eaUlo.  Mr.  and  Mni.  SpeMin*  have  kept  op  a  aehool,  and 
many  of  the  Indiane  have  meoe  great  pmAeiency  in  apeUing, 
readiiw,  and  writing.  They  uae  die  Engliah  alphabet  to  th« 
Nei  Perc4  language.  Mr.  Spalding  haa  made  aoane  ti«nela« 
tieaa  from  the  Benpturee,  and  among  etbera  from  the  book  ot 
Matthew.  From  Uiia  printed  oopy  many  of  the  Indiana  hav« 
printed  with  a  pen  fao  aimilea  of  the  tnnalation,  whieh  an 
neatly  executed.  I  have  eeveral  e<^iee  in  my  pcaeeeeion  ol 
theae  ami  other  writinga,  whieh  oen  be  aeen  at  any  time  ii 
Laurel,  Indiana.  They  are  a  quiet,  eivil  people,  bnt  proud  am 
haughty  i  ther  endeavor  to  imiiale  the  faahione  of  the  white* 
and  owe  much  of  their  aupeiinr  qnaliAcatione  to  the  Miaaioa 
ariea  who  are  among  them. 

Mr.  Spalding  and  &mily  have  labored  among  ihem  for  ick 
yeara  aaaiduouajy,  and  the  inereaaing  waata  and  denanda  ol 
the  native*  requhre  an  additional  amounti»f  labor.  A  faai> 
ily  of  their  own  ia  riaing  aronnd  them,  which  ■ecaaearily 
reqnirea  a  portion  of  their  titde ;  and  the  inoreaaing  earee  of 
the  family  render  it  impoeaiUe  to  do  that  amount  of  good,  aad 
carry  out  folly  that  poUey  which  they  have  ao  advaatageonaly 
oommenoed  for  the  nativea.  It  ia  Impoeeible  for  oo*  family  Mi 
oounleraot  all  the  influenoaa  of  bad  and  deaigiiiag  men,  of 
whom  there  are  not  a  few  in  the  eoantry.  Tfiey  nead  met* 
aaaiatanee.  There  are  a  auAmeut  number  of  eetabliahmenlflt 
but  not  a  auiBoient  number  of  peraona  at  Ihoae  eataUiahmenla. 
For  iaatanee :  Mr.  Spalding  muat  now  attend  nolooly  to  raia> 
ing  produce  for  hia  own  famUy,  but  alao  to  aupply  in  a  great 
meaanre  food  to  numanma  (amiliea  of  Indiana  i  to  ae«  aa  teacher 
and  apiritnai  guide,  aa  phyeieian,  and  perform  laaaT  other  du« 
tiee  incident  to  hia  ailuation.  With  auch  a  mnltitada  of  elaims 
on  hia  attention,  hia  energiea  are  too  nock  divided,  and  on  the 
whole  hia  miuenoe  ia  leaaened.  Coukl  not  lb*  Miaaionary 
board  aend  out  an  aaaiatantt 

There  ia  one  thii«  which  could  b*  aecooipUabed  with  • 
anall  outlay,  that  would  be  of  hating  advantage  t*  thee*  peo 
pie.  They  are  raiaing  email  floeka  of  ahoep,  and  have  beett 
taught  to  card  and  apin  and  weave  by  hand,  atod  prepare  doth* 
iug^^bat  the  prooaaa  ia  toe  tadiooa.  ▲  mrding  ibaehia*  and 
maabiiwry  for  fcUing  etotb  woold  to  a  aaviqf  to  tto  bond  tt 


if  ih«  monnuini,  iir« 
>l«.  Th«y  havt  mad* 

■oil,  ana  hav«  large 
liaiuf  larg*  harda  of 
pi  up  a  aehool,  and 
nAciancy  io  aptUing, 
|(iah  alphabtl  to  lh« 

mail*  aonna  tranala* 
«ra  from  Um  book  i^ 
•  of  iho  Indiana  hav« 
Bnalatkm,  whieh  an 
in  ny  pcaaoaaion  ol 
a««n  at  any  lima  U 
people,  bnl  proud  am 
ahJN)na  of  too  whilM 
tiona  to  Um  Miaaios 

I  among  Iham  for  lak 
uita  and  donaada  of 
nt-of  labor.  A  fam- 
n,  whieh  Mcaaaarily 
I  inoraaaing  earea  of 
amoMnk  of  good,  a»d 
TO  ao  ndtaalagaoaaly 
Iblo  for  OM  family  m 
1  daaigiiiaf  man,  of 
y.  liMy  iraai  mon 
tar  of  oatabliahaMnlat 
thoM  oauMialinHala. 
ttaad  nolooly  to  ni»> 
» to  Mpply  in  a  graai 
iaaai  toaelaatoaehor 
rform  mmit  oUwr  do* 
a  Boltitada  of  elaims 
:li  diridod,  and  on  tho 
I  not  Ibo  liiaaionory 

aeeonpUabod  widi  • 
Irantafa  to  ihaao  pao 
ahaap*  tod  h«v«  boen 
■d,  aiid  prtparooloth* 
eardiogiMehiM  and 
•vii^  to  lh«  baud  at 


ma  ROOKY  MWNTAWa. 


iIWIW 


IM 


rtoh  maeh.«..  in  »hai  rouniry.  Tha  wood  wwk  of  ihoj. 
iahin*.  eouid  n..rly  .11  bn  don.  in  ih«  counirr  j  iha  earda 
and  oaatinca  ara  all  ihal  would  ba  n«r*a.ary  lo  ahip.  A  mo- 
ehanio  to  aal  up  iho  machine  wouW  ba  nawMary. 

P«l»p«  no  Jart  of  Iha  world  >•  ballar  ad.p»«i  to  iha  growth 
Of  w«r'3..n  Vhi.  middla  r^ion,  «Ki  il  .bound,  w'th  waur- 
Iwar  to  manufa^nr.  it.     Farmaia.  machanica  and  toachai^ 
KVd  ba  —I  among  thaao  p«»pf  by  Ui.  ";!«'<'"*n;  .««r^ 
Sbylhagomnmanu     A  diriatoo  ia  ^l  b..ng  m«la  in  *w 
!.««.  whCh  if  not  80unur«5tod.  will  doobOaa.  Uad  to  bad 
SSJI"^.    Th«.  Dalawaro  MiaD.   hara  «ro«|Kl   ih. 
t^SSTand  aa«dod  on  tha  Kooakoo.k«i  unoH  H-  N«« 
KSuduS^    O^  of  th«n.  nunad  Tom  Hill,  ba.  «  -ngn- 
S2  JSImI?  Into  dto  foaUng.  of  Oto  Na.  P«'-J2^jr' '^ 
Z  haa  aueaaodad  in  panuadiiif  rf»«t  ona  homlrwl  lodgoa  to 
tiS^todgThSi  aa  thalr  chtrf-     I»  *«  f*™*''/.  "  *^ 
STtriS.  cu.tom.ry  for  «  I«li.n  to  •«».  -  -.rj;  wir- 
..  ha  aould  mMnudoi  but  the  mi-ion.n..  unght  th.m  oUtor- 
wiao,  and  .ucce«d«l  in  aboliahing  ihi.  haathaa  coatom.     Bol 
Tom  Hill  tolU  th«n  that  they  en  h.».  aa  msny  wiraa  -  ihay 
dImm      Ha  a.ya  to  them.  You  make  in*  chief,  «id  I  wU 
KkTyou  .  grJt  paople.    Tha  whila  man  tall  you  not  to  .t«J 
II!!l  U^oa  Ura  iailo  harm  in  It ;  U.a  bad  conaiau  m  bainf 
oMitht  at  It.    Thaao  men  wiU  t=«»le.d  you,  dw.,  Ac, 

fiUia  Md  the  other  ehiefa  h.re  eiertod  ihemaelve.  to  recjd 
llMir  people,  bal  they  cannot  euoceed.     In  eonroraing  wiin 

!»oM  hhTaeople.  Ha  mewered  that  he  oerer  knew  .  omo 
rfSXni J.'Sl.  «•  of  Tom  HiU'e.  He  fook.  upo«  him 
m  n^ay  ««.  The  two  other  Detawwe  Indun.  .f  young 
ZJ^S  «•  todaetrioaa  »d  pe«5e.ble.  They  h.«  com- 
BMaeed  oaitirrting  the  aoiU  and  are  rwaing  a  fine  herd  ot  ciUe. 
SSfa^oSderSl  wadthy.  He  h-  .bout  fifteen  hundnjd 
^Heee.  •  herd  of  eetUe,  aoma  hoga.  and  a  few  '^9-J*^ 
W«  •■  M»  nation  hare  from  ite  to  JlAeee  hundred  head 
^n^.  la  traToUog  from  Dr.  Whitman',  to  thai  pbee.  I 
2w^  than  toa  thoJIaand  horaea  araaing  upon  the  plataa. 
TWrnr  aM  .nad  lookiac.  Mid  aoma  of  them  large. 

SSSnMtS.  eaquirie.  aa  to  whether  it  wa.  praetf 
-hi  to  eSdn  *a  aeeaeawy  «ippUea  at  theee  mlaaion.  foi 

«BtliBlhaaoBldAirBbhaawi«h«o«raiMl«aat.    Wahada*. 


IT 


tM 


iuvwM.  or  mAvw*  otR* 


! 
if 


;!■ 


rordingly  eonlf  mpUtiKl  pmcarmK  a  pwrl  of  our  owtfil  al  ihta 
n\tet.  A  few  liwl  «lr«i|rning  Imltana  had  fri^queniljr  giwn  Mr 
Mpaldinff  irtmblfl  alioui  liu  plara.and  hud  matia  aa»ar«  (hraaM. 
Al  ona  lima  lh«y  had  ihrralmul  Ui «!«  him.  and  dri»a  hia  hmiiv 
■way.  'I'hay  r«.m|»l«in«l  »hal  iha  whiiaa  nB»«r  cam«  ihrou^h 
ihair  eounlry,  |»»»nf  tham  iha  adranlafaa  of  Uatlai  b«it  thai  Uia 
whita  man  paaafd  ihrowfh  ihe  Cavuaa  rounlry.  aalling  iheir 
ealtia,  clothliw.  &«••  J  and  thai  if  tnay  could  nol  ha»a  all  Ut« 
bcnaflla  of  Irad.*,  iha  whitra  aho«l«l  laave  llta  eounlry. 

Early  in  tha  apnnn  aoma  of  iham  had  got  into  a  ft!  of  iM 
humour,  and  had  onlrrrd  Mr.  Hpal.lmif  from  iha  plaoai.  cui 
op«n  hia  mill-dam,  ihraw  down  hw  fencea,  broka  iha  windowa 
of  tha  ohureh.  erippWd  aoma  ef  hia  hoga.  ami  took  poaaaaaw* 
of  Iha  whole  pramlaw.  Thle  lima  thav  awiiiiad  •»  "  «'^'; 
mined  to  carry  their  threatt  into  asacntioo.  Mr.  8.  u>o«M 
them  to  take  iheir  own  conrae,  putiint  no  oha«a«la  in  thaw 
way.  The  principal  men  aaamed  to  look  on  wiih  indiffaren**  ; 
but  ther  etldendy  aaw  that  it  waa  likely  to  injure  them,  mor« 
than  it  would  Mr.  Hpdding ;  for  they  relied  upon  the  miU  an4 
farm  for  their  aupport  to  a  |rea«  eilent 

In  tha  meantime  Mr.  Spaldinn  had  writt«n  «  »et»«  to  a«, 
Informinff  ua  of  hie  aitaation.  and  that  we  could  not  rely  on 
him  for  fumlahing  ua  with  auppllea.  He  o«  ^*  wt**'  »• 
an  Indian  to  carry  to  Dr.  Whitman'a.  that  it  mifht  he  fo^. 
warded  to  «e.  The  Indiana  b«in|f  appnaed  of  the  eontenla  of 
the  letter,  atopped  the  carrier,  and  took  from  him  the  letter, 
and  after  a  conaoltation  determined  to  abandon  their  raah 
eourae ;  aa  it  would  be  likely  to  deprive  them  of  the  benefit  of 
our  trade,  and  be  a  barrier  againat  the  whito  men  ever  coming 
to  trade  with  them.  They  awordinjjly  brotifht  the  Wtter  to 
Mr.  Spalding,  acknowledging  they  had  done  wrong,  and  placed 
hhn  in  fnll  poaaeaaion  of  hie  premiaea.  promiamg  to  behave 
better  for  the  future  {  and  when  we  arrived  he  waa  enjoywf 
their  ftill  eonfidnnee. 

The  Indiana  Informed  ua  that  there  waa  a  good  paeaway 
npon  the  north  aide  of  Lewia'a  fork,  by  pioceedmg  up  the 
Kooakooakee  aome  aixty  milea,  and  then  etnklng  aoroaa  to 
Salmon  river,  and  then  up  to  Fort  Boia.  By  uking  thia  route 
in  the  winter  aeaaon,  we  would  avoid  the  deep  anow  upon  the 
Bine  MonnUina,aa  the  ronte  ia  moatly  up  the  valley  of  Lewia 
river,  and  it  ia  undoubtedly  nearer  to  Puget  Sound  than  by  the 
dd  route.  Thoae  wlahing  to  aettle  about  the  Bound  wouli  do 
well  to  take  thia  route,  or  »t  Uaet  the  enving  in  the  dietoice 


nrM 

of  our  iwtfSl  tl  ihU 
frfqutnUjr  gtnn  Mr 
niMl*  Mv«r«  ihrMM. 
,  iikI  dri*«  hit  fenitlv 
I  ne»«r  cam*  ihroufK 
oflTMlMi  IxH  thai  til* 
country,  tcllinf  iheir 
lultl  not  h«*a  til  Uta 
iIm  oouniry. 
(i  fol  into  B  Al  of  iH 
[  from  tK*  pUo*.  eui 
it,  brnka  lh«  wimkiwa 
,  wmI  UHik  poMMsion 
Y  MMiinml  to  (m  tktar- 
mi.  Mr.  8.  tUowad 
no  ohata<!la  in  thair 
on  wiih  itMliflarenrfl ; 
to  injnra  iham,  mora 
ii«d  upon  iha  milt  and 

rritlan  a  ktiar  to  ua, 
w«  ooold  not  raiy  on 
Ha  gava  tha  latlar  to 
that  it  mifht  ha  for. 
«4mI  of  the  eontania  of 
from  him  tha  lalter, 
t  abandon  thair  raah 
them  of  tha  benefit  of 
hitfl  men  ever  oominf 
'  brooght  the  latter  to 
one  wronf ,  and  placed 
I.  promiainf  to  behave 
ived  he  waa  enjoyinf 

waa  a  good  paaaway 
by  pioceading  up  the 
ten  atriking  aeroaa  to 
By  uking  thia  route 
le  deep  tnow  upon  the 
ip  the  falley  of  Lewia' 
iget  Sound  than  by  the 
ut  the  Hound  wouK'  do 
asTing  k  tha  dittawa 


TIIH  HOOrr  MOWNTAIW* 


ttl 


would  Joitlfy  an  examination  of  tha  route,  to  aaeertoln  Itt  p»«- 
ticability. 


We  Were  vary  hoapiuhly  •nteruinml  by  Mr.  Rp«l.llng.  and 
hia  Interrating  family.     W 


hia  mterfung  ..m.-y.  -Hh  .ha  "«^P'«"  ?  ,7' V''*;;': 
who  la  now  en«.g«.l  on  tha  miaaion  farm,  and  Mr.  (-«.«.  wh« 
r..  .  n"..va  fof.  w.f..  and  11»m  «'«  hundred  yard,  from  Mr. 
Spalding'-  .«w.ll.ng.  tha  n«r«.t  white  '•'T"''?  -r  ^J"  J  ,7; 
Vfalkar  and  ElU.  who  r..*..  .  miaaion  mte  hundred  and  U^ir  y 
miU.  to  tlie  north,  among  the  Flalheid  nation i  rnd  Dr.  Whit- 
:;!rliy  on-  Cdr^  ami  «fty  mUae  di.U«^  among  Uta 

^TthT.  lonely  aitu.tlon  th.y  hare  .cent  .\.  be.t  P";  of  Oidr 
.Wv.    .mn.i<r  the  wild  •avagea.  ind  for  no  eompenaaiion  but  a 

X. "-'--•"  '^'  -"y  rrit'':'..r*r;ino"i 

were  fompelletl  to  ua«  horte  meat  for  food,  but  I  bay  are  now 
JurngTer^  of  domeatic  .nim.ia  abcut  them  and  raiae  a  .uj; 
nlua  of  iraln  beyond  their  own  want*.  Al  Mr.  «P«>'"ni  • 
SereiaSTe.cua;  for  a  grlat  mill,  which  ^'^'"Jl^^'V? 
tf^e  grain,  but  they  have  no  bolUng  doth .  In  jjaee  of  which 
Sey  uae  a  .ieva.  The  meal  makea  vary  good  bread.  Thaw 
WM  formerly  a  aaw  mill,  but  the  irona  have  »«*"^f«rf 
...d  in  a  mill  which  Dr.  Whitman  haa  recently  built  about 
Jienty  X  frT  hi.  dwelling,  at  the  fool  of  the  Blue  moun- 
ZT    ThrCathollea  have  ae'veral  miaaionary  eatabHahmant. 

nnon  the  upper  watera  of  the  Columbia.  

"T«^J.  fSd,  of  April  w,  had  mad.  **  «"r"Vh^T; 
menla.  and  atartmi  on  our  return  to  Dr.  Whi^an   .  whe«.  w. 
arrived  on  the  Uih.     On  my  way  down  In  the  fall.  I  had  left 
iTora.  and  a  heifer  with  the  Doctor.    They  w«a  "ow  run- 
ning  on  the  plaina.     Several  pertona  w«e  engagwl  in  hunting 
S  up;  the  horM>  wm  found  and  br«i|ht  in.  ainl  wa.  in 
ZJ^ndlUou.   The  Indiana  had  concealeJ  the  horae.  tn  ordar 
rSr.  trade,  and  offered  to  boy  him.  th^  to  «n  «-  riak 
of  finding  him;  but  a.  he  waa  a  favorite  horaa.  that  I  h^ 
SoSghtTrom  home.  I  felt  gratUW  when  he  waa  found.     Fhe 
heifer  I  ti«led  for  a  horae,  the  puwhaaer  to  find  her.     My 
two  o«en.  which  I  had  left  at  Mr.  Spriding'a.  I  tr«led  for  a 
ho«e.    An  Indian  who  had  atolen  a  horae  from  a  company 
in  the  m,  h»A  been  detected,  and  the  horae  Uken  to  fort  Wal- 
"walla.     Ho  had  again  atolen  the  hor...  and  traded  htm  off. 
H.  WM  at  Dr.  WhUman'..  and  aa  the  owner  waa  of  our  party, 
be  made  a  demand  for  the  horw,  and  the  Indian  gave  up  a 


1S3 


jouBNAL  or  thavum  ovsb 


t  ■ 


poor  old  horM  in  ita  stead.    Thia  was  the  aame  fellow  thai 
had  bought  my  heifer. 

We  remained  at  Dr.  Whitman**  until  the  17th,  when  all  waa 
prepared,  and  we  made  a  formal  alart.  Our  party  conaiateU 
of  eighteen  persona,  and  fifty-one  hnrsea  and  mulea.  We 
traTeled  about  eight  miles,  and  encamped.  On  the  18th,  w* 
traveled  to  the  Umaiillo.  On  the  way  the  fellow  who  had 
bought  the  heifer  overtook  ua  and  demanded  the  horse,  aa  h« 
aaid  he  had  not  time  to  hunt  up  the  heifer.  I  refuaed  to  give 
it  up,  and  he  insisted.  At  this  juncture  Dr.  Whitman  over- 
took us,  and  the  Indian  made  complaint  to  him.  It  waa  ar> 
ranged  that  we  ahould  all  go  on  to  Umatillo,  where  several  of 
the  chiefs  resided,  and  have  the  matter  amicably  settled.  W« 
reached  the  %«er  in  the  aderooon,  and  repaired  to  the  chief's. 
The  Induin  told  his  story;  and  I  told  mine.  The  chief  deci> 
ded  that  I  ahould  give  up  the  horse,  and  he  would  ^ve  me  a 
hoiae  for  the  heifer.  I  agreed  that  in  case  the  heifer  could 
not  be  found,  to  give  him  anotlier  on  my  return  to  Oregon. 
The  Indian  set  out  with  his  horse,  and  the  chief  soon  brought 
me  one  in  its  place,  worth  at  leaat  two  anch  as  the  first.  Of 
course  I  was  much  pleased  with  the  exchange. 

At  night  it  commenced  raining,  and  then  snowing,  and  in 
the  morniuff  the  enow  was  four  or  five  inches  deep  on  tlw 
ground.  We  were  then  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  as  we  expected  the  snow  had  fallen  deep  upon  the 
mountain,  we  remained  in  camp  all  day.  The  90th  was  unfa- 
vorable for  traveling,  and  we  remained  in  camp.    • 

On  the  21st  we  took  np  the  line  of  march,  aaeended  the 
mountain,  and  advanced  about  twenty-five  miles,  whieh 
brought  us  over  the  dividing  ridge.    We  found  the  snow  in 

gktehes,  and  sometimee  three  feet  dee|H~that  is,  the  old  snow. 
t  the  new  fallen  snow  had  all  melted  away.    The  graiing 
was  poor,  but  at  night  we  fiuind  a  prairie  upon  the  south  side 
of  the  mountain,  which  afibrded  a  scan^  supply  of  grass ;  here 
we  encamped  for  thtf  night. 
The  S2d  was  very  blustery,  sometimes  snowing ;  very  disa- 

nablo  traveling.  We  reached  the  Grand  Round  at  3  o  dook 
i.  and  encamped.  Here  we  found  an  abundance  of  good 
grass,  and  halted  for  the  night.  During  the  night  the  horae 
which  I  had  obtained  of  the  old  chief  broke  from  his  picket, 
and  in  company  with  one  that  was  ninninc  kwse,  took  the 
back  track.  In  the  morning  we  dispateb«l  two  men,  who 
followed  them  about  four  miles,  when  it  waa  found  that  the 


yvwM 

the  saine  fellow  that 

ie  17th,  when  all  waa 
Our  party  conaiateU 
n  ana  mulea.  We 
i.  On  the  18th,  w« 
the  fellow  who  had 
ided  the  hnrae,  aa  he 
er.  I  refuaed  to  give 
I  Dr.  Whitman  over* 
I  to  him.  It  waa  ar- 
illo,  where  aeveral  of 
(nieably  aettled.  We 
[paired  to  the  chief 'a. 
ine.  The  chief  deci- 
1  he  would  ^ve  me  a 
saae  the  heifer  could 
ly  return  to  Oregoo. 
he  chief  aoon  brought 
inch  ae  the  firat.  Of 
hange. 

hen  anowing,  and  in 
B  incbea  deep  on  th^ 
the  foot  of  the  moun- 
fallea  deep  upon  the 
The  90ta  waa  unfe« 
in  camp. 

'  march,  aaeended  the 
ty-five  milea,  whieh 
'e  found  the  enow  in 
-that  ia,  the  old  anow, 
away.  The  graiing 
B  upon  the  aoulh  aide 
aupplyofgraaaihere 

B  anowing;  yerydiaa- 
Dd  Round  at  3  o'clock 
ao  abundance  of  good 
g  the  night  the  horae 
»roke  from  hia  picket, 
nning  kwae,  took  the 
itehfMl  two  men,  who 
it  was  found  that  the 


THE  KOCKV  MOUNTAlWe. 


188 


h„„«,  hnd  left  .he  road.  The  two  ™«n  ;«"»  ^ack  ten  or 
twelve  milea.  but  could  -ee  nothing  of  the  ho"e..  Jhey 
h-n  reiurneil  to  camp.  We  in  the  mean  time  had  packed  up, 
end  tr^vS  »cro"  6rand  Round  about  eight  mile.,  when  we 
SncaS  In  the  morning  we  .tarted  back  four  men  U,  hunt 
for  thjhor*,;      On  the  evining  of  the  24th  our  men  relumed, 

'"'o;;'t"mir:i n'gTthe  25.h  we  packed  up,  traveled  about 
twX  »Ts  miTclnd  encamped  on  Powder  nver.  near  the 

''%!teZ7.e  traveled  about  twe^-fi- "»"•••   Jj"*; 
»8th  we  traveled  about  tweny-three  mUea,  and  encamped  n«ar 

**'on*Ih;  29th  we  reached  fort  Boia.  The  people  at  the  fort, 
and  "hT lDdi.n.  in  the  vicinity,  were  evidently  much  alarmed. 
BeforT  reaching  the  fort,  I  aaw  at  a  diatance  numem..  col- 
umn.  of  .mok7,  alternately  ri-ing  ^^.'^^J^^JiSl/^i'i^ 
another  column  would  riao  at  a  great  dwtonce.  Theae  column. 
;?  .moke  .eemed  to  be  aignal.  that  enemie.  were  n  the  coun^ 
Srv  The  people  at  the  fort  were  aeeminglv  friendly,  and  .up- 
Sed  «.  w^h'^ilk  and  butler.  We  ••[«'*^,««' 3"! 
pund  with  caution,  and  with  ^  eye  to  he  defence^*  J  of 
ftnrua  and  men  Onr  euard  waa  doubled.  We  *•"  .»>  j 
S;  mny  InZ  ,  to "fho-Ule  demonatration  waa  exhibited. 
%7Z  wSon  road  cro«e.  the  river,  but  as  the«  w^  »o 
Snia  at  the  upper  crowing,  and  the  river  wa.  too Jiigh  to 
STwe  d^Jwe/^pon  travelLn.  U.e  *«?*  "'J  »i*;^ 

On  the  80th  of  April  we  packti  op,  and  left  fort  Boia.    i  ne 
tran  led  us  up  to  the  mouth  of  a  atream  coining  m  on  the  wjiUi 
Se  of  I^wia  river,  about  one  hundred  yard,  in  width.    Thi. 
we  r^achld  n  about  three  mile..   Immediatoly  at  the  croaamg 
San  Indkn  viUage  of  the  Shoehonee  tribe     When  wiAm 
one  fomTof  a  ^le  from  the  croaaing,  an  Indian  who  had 
SL^Jour  camp  the  evening  before,  waa  aeen  nding  fanon.lv 
S^.  w.^J  came  up  dfrecdy  to  me,  «»«»d.ng  h»  hU 
wSTI  took  of  course;  two  or  three  were  riding  m  front 
luh  rti.  who  aU  ahook  handa  with  him.  He  then  turned  and 
S'thr;a;  SirouJlThe  buahe.  to  the  crowing.    At  the  poin^ 
wSe»  we  came  out,  the  bank  wa.  wme  fifteen  feet  high.    A 
SSTw  puS  had  been  cut  down,  so  a.  to  admit  bu  one  hojee 
1 S Vgo  up  the  bank ;  the  village  w»  inim«d..tdy  upon 
Se  bink.  Si  Sl«.overed.ome  thirty  orjorty  Indjan.  .tjnd- 
ing  near  the  point  where  the  trail  Mcended  the  bank.    I  toUe 


.iWi.illlH.IHMMWiWl| 


,jm 


144 


JOURNAI*  OF  TRAVEW  OVKR 


to  th«  top  of  tha  bank,  where  about  fifuen  Hgly  looking  In- 
(liana  were  alanding,  all  atriving  to  almke  handa,  but  my  horae 
woulJ  not  allow  them  to  approach. 

I  paased  on,  tliu  company  following,  and  oa  we  forrned  a 
long  ir«in,  being  in  aingle  file,  by  the  time  thoae  behind  werii 
out  of  the  creek,  thoae  in  the  lead  were  five  or  aix  hundred 
yarda  from  the  bank,  and  over  a  ridge.  1  halted  the  front,  for 
all  to  come  np,  when  I  discovered  that  Buckley,  who  waa  in 
the  rear  riding  one  horae  and  leading  another,  had  not  ap- 
peared over  the  ridge.  Two  of  the  men  who  were  in  the  rear 
went  back  for  him.  The  horae  which  he  waa  leadmg  aoon 
came  running  over  the  ridge,  and  aa  BucUey  did  not  make  hie 
appearance,  we  auppoaed  that  aomething  waa  wrong.  Othen 
aurted  back,  but  they  all  aoon  returned,  and  we  went  on.  In 
a  few  minutea,  however,  one  of  the  party  came  riding  up,  and 
stated  that  the  lodiam  were  going  to  charge  udob  ua. 

At  thia  inatant »  gun  waa  fired  by  them,  and  a  hideout  yeU- 
ing  waa  heard  at  our  heeU.  The  Indiana  were  drawn  up 
in  line  upon  the  ridge,  all  armed,  aome  with  muaketa,  and  oUiere 
with  bowB  and  arr<  *b.  The  feUovr  who  had  mat  ua,  waa  atiU 
mounted,  and  ruficing  hie  horae  from  one  end  of  the  Ime  io  the 
other,  and  all  were  yeUing  like  flende.  1  thought  it  <m»u<>  not 
be  poMible  that  they  would  charge  upon  ua,  and  ordered  aU 
handa  to  move  along  alowly  but  cautiously,  to  have  their  arms 
in  readiness,  and  to  keep  the  pack  animals  together,  ao  that 
tliey  could  be  atopped  at  any  moment.  We  marched  riong 
alowly  in  close  order,  and  paid  no  further  remrd  to  the  Indians, 
than  to  carefully  watch  their  movements.  They  followed  along 
a  few  hundred  yarda,  and  halted,  their  yells  then  ceased,  and 
we  saw  nothing  more  of  them.  .  .  ,  j. 

When  the  two  men  returned  to  Buckley,  the  mounted  Indiaa 
apoken  of  had  Buckley'e  horae  by  the  head ;  he  had  proposed 
an  exchange,  but  Buckley  did  not  wieh  to  awap,  and  aaked  him 
to  let  go  Uie  bridle:  the  Indian  held  on,  Buckley  pulled  and  ha 
pulled;  Buckley  rapped  his  knuckles  with  a  whip,  and  m  the 
scuffle  the  horae  that  B.  waa  leading  broke  loose,  and  ran  over 
the  ridge,  they  not  being  able  to  catch  him.  At  this  juncture 
the  two  men  arrived;  one  of  them  raiaed  hie  rifle  m  the  attt- 
tude  of  atriking  the  Indian  on  the  head,  but  he  paid  no  regard 
to  it;  the  other,  seeing  his  determined  manner,  ruahed  at  him 
with  hie  bowie  knife ;  he  then  let  go  the  bridle,  and  our  men 
came  up  to  Uie  company.  What  his  object  was,  or  what  their 
object  in  rallying  tfceir  forces,  I  could  not  coiyecture :  but  tt 


fk 

J 


i 


OVKR 

ben  ugly  looking  In> 
I  handi,  but  my  iion* 

and  aa  we  formed  a 
ne  thoae  behind  were 
1  five  or  fix  hundred 

I  halted  the  Aront,  for 
Buckley,  who  waa  in 

another,  had  not  ap- 
I  who  were  in  the  rear 

he  waa  leading  aoon 
kley  did  not  make  hia 
;  waa  wrong.    Othera 

and  we  went  on.  In 
y  came  riding  up,  and 
arge  upon  ua. 
im,  ana  a  hideous  yeU> 
diana  were  drawn  up 
ilh  muaketa,  and  othere 

0  had  met  ua,  was  still 
e  end  of  the  line  io  the 

1  thought  it  could  not 
on  ua,  and  ordered  all 
sly,  to  have  their  arms 
imals  together,  so  that 
.  We  marched  along 
ir  regard  to  the  Indians, 
.  I'hey  followed  along 
yells  then  ceased,  and 

ley,  the  mounted  Indian 
lead ;  he  had  proposed 
to  swap,  and  asked  him 
Buckley  pulled  and  ha 
vith  a  whip,  and  in  the 
oke  loose,  and  ran  over 
him.  At  this  juncture 
led  his  rifle  in  the  atti- 
I,  but  he  paid  no  remrd 
manner,  ruahed  at  him 
he  bridle,  and  our  meo^ 
bject  was,  or  what  their 
not  coi\jacture:  but  it 


THE  HOCKY  MOUNTAIN* 


185 


nut  US  on  our  guard.  At  our  night  encampment  there  were 
Ci^Trowling  about,  but  they  were  afraid  of  our  r.d.ng  too 
near  hem  L  made  no  attempt  to  steal,  or  otherwise  molest 
r  The  country  was  exlremdly  dry  and  barren ;  graxmg  was 

'  "onTJ  6th  of  May  we  arrived  at  the  upper  "0";?K  J^  ^^^^^ 
river  On  our  way  we  had  seen  several  villages  ot  hhoshonee 
IndTans  b»rwere  not  disturbed  by  them.  ''The  grazing  waa 
poor,  a^d  he  country  very  barren.'  We  crossed  several  warm 

ream,  running  d..w^,  fro'm  the  •"-"«-'»••  ^^^.VTwaion 
a  distance  of  from  five  to  ten  miles  on  our  right.  A  wagon 
load  «nbi  had  along  the  south  side  of  the  river,  by  hugging 
hrbwe  of  the  mountains  for  twenty  or  thirty  miles,  when  it 
wSi^;  ^ke  ioln  the  low  bottom  of  Snake  or  Lewis  river;  but 
the  distance  is  greater  than  by  crossing  the  river. 

On  the  6th  oT  May  we  reached  Safmon  falls,  and  went  up 
aix  miles  to  Salmon  Fall  creek,  and  encamped.  On  theSth 
and  9th  it  rained  and  snowed,  so  that  we  were  compelled  to 
Uy  by  most  of  the  time.  On  the  lOlh  itcleared  up,  and  in  he 
aX>nioon  we  had  fair  weather  and  pleasant  traveling.  On  the 
iSt^we  resthed  Cassia  creek.    At  this  place  the  Califorma 

*™JnTe  Uth  we  ar/ved  at  Fort  Hall.  On  the  16th  we 
reeled  the  Soda  8pr(!.gs.  On  .he  18th  we  mot  about  «x 
^dred  lodges  of  Snake  Indians ;  they  were  moving  from  B^g 
E  river  to  Lewis'  fork.  On  the  28d  we  reached  Green 
S«r,  Sng  tfi^no"rthL  route..  Much  of  thejmeje  ae- 
ther has  bein  cool  wiUi  frosty  nights,  and  several  days  of  ram 

"orthi  24th  we  crossed  Green  river,  and  traveled  about 
forty  mui  to  the  Big  Sandy.  The  day  was  blustering,  w.th 
mTJTd  snow.    Along  the'  bottoms  of  the  Sandy  we  found 

"2n«r  ffi^e  tv^eUrr  LitUe  S«dy.     On^U.  ^Jh 

?:S.t  Wator  was  extremely  unpleasant  on  «^«ntof  Oie  wmd 
and  snow.  We  were  sometimes  compelled  to  walk,  in  order 
to  k^  warm.  We  here  found  a  horse,  which  we  supposed 
had  b^n  lost  by  some  emigranta  the  year  before.  He  came 
nmnin.  to  our  band,  and  exhibited  signs  of  the  greatest  joy. 
TyTplSring  and  nralicing  about.  He  was  quite  fat,  and  seemed 
detemiinea  to  follow  us. 


r 


186 


JOURNAL  or  TIUVKW  OVEK 


On  trte  27lli  we  traveled  down  iho  valley  of  Sweel  Vlelef 
about  twenty-live  miles.  On  our  way  we  ei»w  «omfl  hiiudrede 
of  buffalo  and  antelope,  and  two  griiily  bean.  We  •P've  the 
latter  chaae,  but  did  not  aucceed  in  taking  them.  VVe  had 
lome  difficulty  in  preventing  our  pack  aniinnli  from  followmg 
the  numeroua  banda  of  buffalo  which  came  rolling  past  -la. 

We  traveled  down  this  vallev  until  the  80ih.  and  encamped 
about  four  miles  eaat  of  Indrpmdmee  Rock,  at  a  aprnig  near 
a  huire  mountain  of  gray  granite  rock.  Soon  after  encampmg 
it  commenced  raining,  which  turned  to  anow,«nd  m  the  morn, 
ing  we  had  about  five  inchea  of  enow  upon  u».  We  were  un. 
comfortably  aituated,  aa  we  could  procure  but  little  fuel,  and 
had  no  meana  of  sheltering  ourselvea  from  the  "pelUnga  of  the 
pitiless  storm."    Our  horses  too  fared  poorly. 

On  the  81st  of  May  we  remained  in  camp.  By  noon  the 
•naw  had  disappeared,  and  we  succeeded  in  finding  a  few  dry 
cedar  trees,  built  a  fire,  and  dried  our  effecU.  We  had  an 
abundance  of  buffalo  marrow-bones,  tongaee,  and  other  choice 
pieces,  on  which  we  feasted.  We  «nw  large  drove*  of  moun. 
tain  sheep,  or  big-horn,  and  thousands  of  antelope. 

On  the  2d  of  June  we  arrived  at  the  north  fork  of  riatte. 
The  plains  during  thia  day's  travel  were  literally  covered  with 
buffalo,  teoa  of  thousands  were  to  be  seen  at  one  view ;  ante- 
lope and  black-taUed  deer  were  aeen  in  great  •b«n«»»n«^  •M 
•  few  elk  and  common  deer.  One  panther,  and  hundreds  of 
wolves  were  abo  aeen.  We  found  the  river  too  high  to  ford. 
Soon  alter  encamping,  anow  commenced  fallinf .  which  con- 
tinued  idl  night,  but  melted  as  it  reached  the  grtwind.  I  lie 
Erazinff  on  the  bottom  was  excellent,  the  grass  being  about  six 
mches  high.    This  waa  the  best  graa*  we  had  seen  since  leav- 

inff  Burnt  river.  .    .      ,  .     , 

On  the  8d  we  succeeded  in  finding  a  ford,  and  in  the  evening 
we  crossed.  On  the  4lh  we  reached  Deer  creek,  n»«nf  »»• 
veled  about  thirty  miles.  On  the  way  we  saw  a  band  of  In- 
diana  whom  we  auppoeed  to  be  of  the  Crow  nation,  and  ae 
they  are  generally  for  fight,  we  prepared  to  give  them  a  wtnil 
reception  ;  but  it  seemed  that  they  were  as  fearful  of  us,  as  we 
were  of  them.  They  were  soon  out  of  sight  After  iraTeling 
about  five  miles,  we  saw  them  drawn  up  into  line  two  milee 
from  the  road.  As  they  were  at  a  respectful  distanee,  we  did 
not  moleat  them.  We  however  kept  a  aharp  look  out,  and  at 
night  were  cautioua  in  selecting  camp  ground.  1  he  graee  waa 
good,  and  our  animals  fared  well. 


B 


L... 


OVER 

alloy  of  Sweet  Water 
e  inw  aomn  hiiiidretls 
hean.  We  mve  (he 
king  them.  We  had 
niiiinli  rrom  Tollowing 
ne  rolling  poat  tia. 
a  SOtli,  and  encamped 
Rock,  at  a  apriiig  near 
Soon  after  encamping 
now,  and  in  the  moru* 
on  u».  We  were  un- 
jre  but  little  fuel,  and 
mthe^peltiogaof  tha 
Mwrly. 

camp.  By  noon  the 
d  in  finding  a  few  dry 
effecto.  We  had  an 
r«iM,  and  other  choice 
large  drovea  of  rnouo* 
if  antelope. 

I  north  fork  of  Platte. 
I  literally  covered  with 
»en  at  one  view ;  ante- 
great  abandance,  and 
ther,  and  hundreda  of 
river  too  high  to  ford, 
ed  falling,  which  oun- 
lied  the  grtNind.  The 
9  graea  being  about  aix 
ire  had  aeen  linee  leav> 

nrd,and  in  the  evening 
)eer  creek,  having  tra< 
vre  eaw  a  band  of  In« 
B  Crow  nation,  and  aa 
d  to  give  them  a  wamt 
!ae{earittlofua,u  we 
aight  Al\er  traveling 
up  into  line  two  milea 
>eetrul  distance,  we  did 
k  aharp  louk  out,  and  al 
[round.  The  grata  wa* 


Ttre  BOCK/  MOUNTAIN& 


187 


On  the  6th  we  traveled  alnwt  fifteen  milea,  and  encamped 
on  Mike'a-heHd  creek.    Here  we  found  two  trapper.,  wh.,  had 
been  out  about  three  weeka.     They  accompanied  ua  to  Port 
Uramie.  which  we  reached  on  the  8ih  of  June.    In  the  morn- 
ins  H.  Smith,  one  of  our  party,  in  catching  a  mule  w     thrown, 
Md  hia  ahoulder  di.loc.uld.    We  attempted  to  aet  i..  but  could 
not  aucceed.     He  traveled  on  to  the  fort,  but  ,n  gre»' ""•^'T; 
We  remained  here  unUl  the  afternoon  of  ">«  10th.     Mr 
Smitk'a  aitouWer  waa  ao  much  injured  that  he  could  not  travel. 
He  concluded  to  remain  at  the  fort  a  few  daya ;  three  men  were 
to  auy  with  him,  and  the  rest  of  ua  nad  made  arrangement, 
for  alirting,  when  a  company  of  Oregon  emigrant*  came  in 
aisht.     We  awaited  their  arrival,  and  had  the  gratification  of 
hiring  from  the  Suie.,  it  being  the  firat  new.  we  had  received 
aince  leaving  our  home..     A  part  of  ua  remained  a  few  boura 
to  give  them  an  opportunity  of  wriUng  to  their  fnend.;  while 
five  of  the  party  look  the  road.     In  Uie  evening  we  traveled 
about  eigiit  milea,  and  encamped.  „„.;„„ 

We  continued  for  a  diatance  of  two  hundred  milea  meeting 
eompaniea  of  from  aix  to  forty  wagona,  until  the  «'!>•»«>"'"«;. 
ed  five  hundred  and  forty^ne  wagona,  and  averagmg  *^[^2 
soula  to  each  wagon.  They  were  generaUy  m  good  healUi 
and  fine  apiriu.  Two  hi  rtdred  and  twelve  wagona  were  bound 
for  California;  but  I  have  4nce  learned  that  """X  f  J°J« 
who  had  deaigned  to  go  to  Califomui  had  changed  thdr  deaU- 
naUon  and  were  going  to  Oregon. 

At  Aah  hoUow  we  met  a  company  who  had  loat  a»«»y  <>« 
their  cattle  and  horaea  j  but  ihey  were  aull  going  on.    A  aliori 
diatance  below  the  forka  of  Platte,  we  met  •«»!T"tl     r 
one  wagona,  under  the  command  of  a  Mr.  Smith,  which  com- 
Zy  hS  kit  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  head  of  cattle ;  they 
W«iene««ped.andparae'   r"*  «»i  ^unUng  cattle.    We  re- 
mained  withliem  a  abort  time,  and  than  paaaed  on.     Thia 
"r^n  the  18th  of  June.     Two  of  Smith'.  comp«iy  had 
taken  the  back  tr«sk  in  aearch  of  a  ba.^  of  the«  catde.  which 
had  traveled  neariy  forty  mUaa  on  the  return  to  the  State.. 
Near  »igh^  and  after  we  had  encamped,  two  other,  of  the  com- 
panr  cabTap  in  .eareh  of  the  two  men  who  had  atarlad  m 
Se  ietmng.    We  had  aUo  mat  a  boy  belonging  to  th«r  com- 
pTiiTwhoTiad  bean  in  ««reh  of  catUe,  but  h^  found  none ; 
Jn?M  it  waa  neariy  night,  «id  ha  wa.  about  thirty  mdeefioni 
!h.ir^eiiip,  wa  uiaoc2l  him  to  »«nain  with  u.  through  the 

night. 

IS 


(I 


1S8 


JOURNAL  OF  TRAVEUI  OVKR 


The  iwo  men  who  n».d  •rtiriKl  after  we  had  encamped,  con. 

olnded  to  continue  their  eaarch  until  Uiey  found  the  two  other 

men  who  had  preceded  them.     Accordingly  arter  taking  aom* 

refreahmenta,  they  mounted  and  followed  on.  Soon  aHer  darK, 

they  came  running  their  horaea  up  to  our  camp,  one  of  them 

having  behind  him  one  of  the  men  who  had  alartod  out  ui  tte 

I  morning.    They  had  proceeded  from  our  camp  about  aeren  or 

^  eicht  mUea,  when  rising  over  a  amall  ewell  m  the  prairie,  they 

ducovered  a  few  head  of  calde,  and  aaw  ten  or  twelve  Indiana, 

a  part  of  them  engaged  in  catching  a  horae  which  Mr.  1  rim- 

ble  (one  of  the  men  who  had  aUrted  out  in  the  mornini)  had 

,  been  riding,  and  aoroe  were  engaged  in  atripping  the  ololheii 

! !  from  Mr.  Harriaon,  the  other  of  the  men.    The  men  who  had 

left  our  camp  put  whip  to  their  horaea,  and  ran  towarda  thai 

Indiana,  hallooing  and  yeUing.     The  Indiana  seeing  them  ap. 

i f  proach,  and  probably  suppoeing  that  there  waa  a  large  com- 

;■  pany,  left  Harriaon,  and  ran  under  a  bluff,  but  they  took  th« 

horaea  with  them.  .  .  u  u-  -i  i>_<,» 

i!  Harriaon  put  on  hia  dothea  and  mounted  behind  uratten, 

1=  (one  of  ihe  men  who  had  come  to  their  rescue,)  ataUng  that 

1'  the  Indiana  bad  killed  Trimble,  and  aa  none  of  the  emimnte 

had  fire-arms,  the  Indiana  would  soon  return  upon  them.   I  hey 
(hen  came  to  our  camp.     Harriaon  atated  that  he  and  Trimble 
had  traveled  neariy  all  day  with  that  porUon  of  our  party  who 
bad  atarted  from  the  fort  in  advance  o(  ua,  and  near  night  had 
found  five  head  of  their  cattle,  with  which  they  were  return- 
ing to  the  company ;  and  aa  they  were  traveling  leisurely 
•loag,  about  duak,  whiUt  in  a  email  hoUow,  ten  or  twelve  In- 
diaiu  came  euddenly  upon  them,  aeixed  hia  horae,  and  endeav- 
ored to  get  hold  of  Trimble'a  horae,  but  be  jumped  away,  and 
ran  hia  horae  ott.   Harriaon  in  the  mean  Ume  had  dumounlwl. 
and  three  of  the  Indiana  rifled  him  of  hia  clothes.    On  looking 
to  aee  what  had  become  of  TrimMe,  he  saw  him  ndmg  in  a 
eircuitoua  manner  toward*  the  place  where  Harriaon  was ;  at 
thu  instant  aome  half  doien  arrows  were  let  fly  at  rn«n«>»  "Y 
the  Indiana,  some  of  which  took  effect    He  leaned  a  litde 
forward,  hia  horae  at  the  Ume  jumpioB;  at  that  inatont  the 
mek  of  »  gun  waa  heard,  and  Tiimble  fell  from  his  horse 
upon  hia  face,  and  did  not  move  aflerwarda.    Hie  horse  ran 
round  for  aome  minutes,  die  Indiana  trying  to  catch  him »  and 
at  ihia  instant  Bratten  and  hia  friend  came  up.  .   „  . 

Several  of  our  party,  auppoaing  that  we  had  P»«~  «» ««>- 
ger,  had  wld  their  arms  to  the  emigrants,  and  we  had  but  Ave 


i 


own 

re  had  encamped,  con- 
>y  found  the  two  other 
ingly  aAer  taking  loinc 
d  on.  Soon  after  dark, 
our  campi  one  of  thsm 
)  had  aurted  out  in  Uw 
ir  camp  about  aeren  or 
yell  in  the  prairie,  they 
ten  or  twelve  Indimra, 
lorae  which  Mr.  Trim- 
it  in  the  inominr)  had 
I  atripping  the  clothes 
n.  The  men  who  had 
I,  and  ran  towarda  th« 
ndiana  aeeinc  them  ap- 
[»ere  waa  a  large  com* 
i)luff,  but  they  took  the 

lounted  behind  Bratten, 
eir  rescue,)  atating  that 
I  none  of  the  emigrant* 
etum  upon  them.  They 
ted  that  he  and  Trimble 
jrtion  of  our  party  who 
'  us,  and  near  night  had 
rhich  they  were  return- 
rera  traveling  leiaurely 
»Uow,  ten  or  twelve  In- 
d  hia  horse,  and  endesv- 
It  be  jumped  sway,  and 
in  time  had  dismounted, 
lis  clothes.    On  looking 
he  saw  him  riding  in  a 
rhere  Harrison  was ;  at 
ere  let  fly  at  Trimble  by 
ect    He  leaned  a  litOe 
ina;  at  that  insunt  the 
ible  f(ril  from  his  horse 
rwards.    His  horse  ran 
tying  to  catch  him  t  *nd 
»me  up. 

\  we  had  passed  all  dan- 
nts,  and  we  hsd  but  ftv« 


THB  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


189 


rifles  In  the  company.  It  was  quite  dark,  and  there  would 
Ss  but  little  proiipect  of  finding  Trimble,  if  we  attempted  a 
search.  We  Oieriifore  remained  in  camp  until  morning.  About 
elevea  o'clock  at  night  we  dispatched  two  por«,ns  back  to 
inform  the  comptny  of  what  had  occurred,  with  a  request  that 
a  forc!i  might  be  ient,  which  would  be  able  to  chastise  the 

^"EtlVin'^h?  morning  w.  packed  up  "d  traveled  to  the 
spot  where  the  murder  had  been  committed.  We  found  there 
■rrimble's  hat,  whip, and  pocket  knife;  "^several  large  pools 
of  Wood  where  he  had  fallen  from  his  horse,  and  where  the 
lidian.  had  evidently  stripped  him  We  -'-^  ^-"J  "2'? 
Irrows  two  of  which  appeared  to  have  struck  him;  but  noth- 
fnTrulJ  be  tid  of  hi.  b<Kly.  The  river  Platte  was  about 
aju^rrof.mile  distant;  we  «»arched  the  ahore  d.hgenUy, 
iTcol  see  no  sign.  As  we  approached  the  spot  a  gun  w« 
fired  on  a  large  island  opposite,  but  we  saw  no  Indians.  Eight 
bid.""  the  V-  near  where  the  attack  was  made,  showed 
the  manner  in  which  the  Indians  had  been  «>"»?«»«•. 

It  is  highly  probable  that  the  Indians  had  driven  tiie  cattle 
ofl^  and  that  some  of  the  Indiana  concealed  themselvw,  and 
as  Trimble  and  Harrison  had  no  fire-arms,  and  carried  long 
;iwhiji.  they  could  be  easily  distinguished  a.  catUe  hun- 
tarsTan?  the  !ndi«.s  knowing  that  the  wh'te  m«n  must  eome 
Twk. Elected  a  favorable  spot,  and  attacked  them  as  above 

"atad     The      obability  is,  that  had  Trimble  and  Hamwn 
MMtn  armed  thev  woultt  HOt  have  been  mowsted. 
•^w/rTaln^'u  Jn  the  ground  nnUl  late  in  the  a^tarnooju 
waitinc  the  arrival  of  the  force  from  the  company.   We  finally 

whom  we  had  sent  bsck  had  l)een  cut  off;  and  as  we  had 
Two  of  tfie  company  with  us.  and  one  of  our  party  was  b|jck, 
we  packed  up  aSd  took  the  buck  tr«:k,  and  after  traveU^,?  about 
five^mUes,  w.  discoverml  s  band  of  their  cattle  wossing  the 
river  .  Sle  above  us.     We  made  to  the  shore,  when  the  cat- 
SI"  raed  down  the  river,  in  the  direction  of  the  head  of  he 
wL  iJand     We  judged  that  the  Indians  had  been  driving  the 
SStS'STt-uprnZTp'o-h  h«i  >fi)f«;^^he  river  wj. 
quite  shoal,  Md  Buckley  waded  out  and  turned  them  to  the 
2hore.    There  wero  in  this  b««i  twenty-one  he«l  of  wo'^ 
eatde ;  two  of  them  carried  marks  of  the  arrow.    After  trav. 
X  'throe  miles  farther,  we  espial  the  party  commg  to  oi» 
,  but  it  eonsisted  of  only  seven  persons. 


140 


JOURNAL  or  TRAVKI-1  OVF.B 


Mr.  Trimblti  had  left  ft  wife  and  four  children.  She  had 
aent  by  the  party  a  requeal  thai  we  mieht  come  bacii,  and 
allow  herHiul  family  to  travel  with  ua  to  the  II.  SttU-a.  We 
accordingly  all  took  the  road  to  the  company'a  camp,  (dri»in| 
thr,  cattle)  which  we  reached  at  day-break  on  the  morning  of 
the  aOUi  June.  Hero  we  remained  unlil  the  afternoon.  By 
the  perauaaion  of  her  frienda,  Mre.  Trimble  concluded  to  con- 
Unue  her  journey  to  Orefon.  But  there  were  four  familiea 
who  had  loat  *o  many  of  their  catUe,  that  they  were  unaW« 
to  proceed  on  their  journey.  They  had  four  wagona.  and  only 
five  yoke  of  cattle,  and  aome  of  them  were  very  amall.  I  hey 
wiahed  ua  to  travel  with  them  ihroofh  the  Pawnee  oounlry.aa 
the  Pawneea  were  the  perpetrator*  of  the  act  which  had  cmuaed 
them  ao  much  difficulty.  We  acccrdinely  traveled  with  them 
until  the  80ih,  when  we  left  them,  and  reaumed  our  journey 

towarda  home.  «,    -.u 

On  the  morning  of  the  2lat  we  were  joined  by  Mr.  Hmitb, 
and  the  three  men  who  had  been  left  at  the  fort.  We  trav- 
eled on  rapidly  day  and  night,  barely  giving  our  aminala  Ume 
to  reat.  The  weadier  waa  becoming  warm;  Ihe  fliee  ana 
rouaquitoea  were  very  annoying.  We  arrived  at  tlie  Miaaion 
or  Agency  on  the  morning  of  the  6th  of  July.  Here  are  ex- 
tenaive  farma,  and  a  moat  delightful  couniry.  The  fiiet  view 
of  cultivated  fields,  and  marka  of  civilixation,  brought  aimuJ- 
taneoua  ahouu  from  the  whole  parly.  Our  troubled  and  toda 
were  all  forgotten.  :     .    .  .u^ 

On  the  7th  of  July,  at  10  o'clock  A.  M.,  we  amved  at  Um 
Si.  Joeeph'a  miaaion.  where  we  ail  hoped  to  meet  with  friende. 
We  had  been  ao  long  among  aavagea,  that  we  reaembled  them 
mueh  in  appearance ;  but  when  attired  in  new  apparel,  and 
ahavad  aa  became  white  men,  we  hardly  knew  each  oUier.  We 
had  been  long  in  each  other'a  company ;  had  unuergone  toaira- 
ahipa  and  privationa  together;  had  paaaed  thioujjh  many  dan- 
aere,  relying  upon  each  other  for  aid  and  protecUon.  Attwh- 
menis  had  grown  up,  which  when  we  were  about  to  aepawte 
were  sensibly  felt;  but  aa  we  were  yet  separated  froin  our 
familiea.  where  atiU  atronger  ties  were  felt,  each  one  look  bu 
eourae,  and  in  a  few  hours  our  party  was  aeatt^red,  and  eaen 
traveling  in  a  different  direction.        ..,,..       .l^ 

ThoM  of  ua  who  had  mules  found  ready  ealee;  but  M  UM 
horsea  were  much  reduced  in  fiesh,  they  could  uot  be  diii- 
poeed  of.  Our  hor»ee  had  stood  the  trip  remafkmUy  weU,  untol 
within  two  hundred  and  fifty  uulaa  of  MiaaoorL    But  tb*  iiaa 


ivr.n 

children.  Sh«  had 
light  eonifl  back,  and 

the  U.  SitUa.  W« 
tny'a  camp,  (tlriving 
ik  on  tha  morning  of 
I  ilie  aflcmoon.  By 
ble  concluded  lo  con* 
e  were  four  familiea 
lal  they  were  unable 
four  wagon*,  and  only 
re  very  amall.  They 
e  Pawnee  country,  aa 
act  which  had  cauaed 
ly  traveled  with  them 
returned  our  journey 

joined  by  Mr.  Smith, 
t  the  fort.  We  trav- 
viug  our  animala  time 
warm ;  the  fliea  and 
trrived  at  tlie  Miaaioa 
July.  Here  are  ex- 
niry.  The  fiiet  view 
ation,  brought  aimul- 
)ur  troublee  and  toila 

M.,  we  arrived  at  the 
1  to  meet  with  friende. 
at  we  reaembled  them 

in  new  apparel,  and 
knew  each  other.  We 

had  unuergone  hard' 
sd  through  many  dan- 
d  protection.  Attach- 
vera  about  to  aepanle 
■t  aeparated  from  oar 
elt,  each  one  took  hie 
aa  aeatt^red,  and  each 

lady  aalee;  but  aa  the 
liey  could  not  be  die- 
remarktbly  wdl,  unul 
liaaonri.    Buttlwfliee 


TUB  ROCKY  MOUNTAIN*. 


141 


had  10  annoyed  them,  the  weailier  being  warm,  and  the  giaaa 
of  an  inferior  qunlily.  that  ihay  had  failed  much.  I  had  hve 
horsea ;  the  one  which  I  hail  taken  from  home  waa  quite  lame, 
and  I  left  him  at  St.  Jowfph'a ;  the  other  four  were  Indian 
horvea,  and  Mr.  Buckley  agreed  to  take  them  by  land,  acroea 
MitMiuri  and  lllinoia,  and  home;  but  he  waa  unaucceaaful, 
and  arrived  with  only  one  of  tliem.  .  „.     ■       ■     ^ 

1  took  etcaiuboHt  pataage  to  St.  Lome  and  Cincinnati,  anO 
thence  by  atage  t)  Laurel,  Indiana,  where  I  arrived  on  the  23d 
of  July ;  having  been  gone  from  home  one  year  three  monlha 
and  one  week.  I  had  the  pleaaure  of  finding  my  lamdy  en- 
joying  good  health. 

NEORaaART  otrmra  for  rmioramtb  travsliko  to  Orroon. 

For  burthen  wagona,  light  four  horae  or  heavy  two  horee 
wagona  ara  the  aiae  commonly  aaed.  They  ahould  be  made 
of  the  beat  material,  well  aeaaoned,  and  ahould  in  all  caaea 
have  falling  tongue*.  The  tire  ahould  not  be  leaa  than  one 
and  three  fourth  inchea  wide,  but  may  be  advantageoualy  uaed 
three  inchea ;  two  inches,  however,  i*  the  moat  common  width. 
In  faatening  on  the  tin,  bolu  ahould  be  uaed  inetead  of  nail* ; 
it  ahould  be  at  leaat  i  or  I  inche*  thick.  Hub  boxea  for  the 
huba  ahould  be  about  four  inchea.  The  akeina  ahould  be  well 
ateeled.  The  Mormon  faahioned  wagon  bed  » the  beaL  They 
are  uaunlly  m»de  atrmight.  with  aide  board*  about  10  inche* 
wide,  and  a  projection  outward  of  four  inchee  on  each  aide, 
and  then  another  aide  boerd  of  ten  or  twelve  inchea;  in  thia 
kut,  aet  the  bowe  for  eovera,  which  ahould  always  be  double. 
Boxes  for  carrying  effecU  ahould  be  ao  oonatruoted  aa  to  cor- 
reepond  in  height  with  the  offaet  in  the  wagon  bad,  aa  this  gives 
a  smooth  surface  to  sleep  upon.  .         rx 

Ox  teams  ara  mow  extensively  used  than  any  others.  Uxen 
stand  the  trip  much  better,  and  ara  not  w  liable  to  be  atolen 
by  the  Indiana,  and  ara  much  less  trouble.  Catde  ara  generaUy 
allowed  to  go  at  large,  when  not  hitched  to  the  wa|ona ;  whiUt 
horses  and  mules  most  alvr»ys  be  staked  up  at  night.  Oxen 
ran  proenra  food  in  many  plaoea  whera  horses  cannot,  and  in 
much  less  time.  Catde  that  have  been  laieed  inlUinoiB  or 
Miaooari,  stand  the  trip  better  than  those  nised  in  Indiaiw 
or  Ohio;  aa  they  have  been  aeeuatomed  to  eating  the  pr»in« 
grass,  upon  whieh  they  muat  whoUy  rdy  while  on  the  road. 


141 


JOURNAL   or  TRAVnJi   OVKH 


Gnat  cure  •Would  ht>  itWen  in  wlectinf  c«lUe;  ihey  thould  b« 
from  four  to  lix  ye«r»  old,  tifhl  and  heavy  made. 

For  thoie  who  ftl  out  but  on«  wagon,  it  w  not  aafe  to  atari 
with  lata  than  four  yoka  .,f  ^xen,  aa  thav  art  habU  to  gal 
Umt,  ha»e  iora  nacka,  or  to  atray  away.    Ona  taam  thua  flucd 
up  may  aUrt  from  Miaaouri  wsih  twentv-fiva  hundn-d  pounda 
and  aa  each  day'a  rationa  make  the  load  that  much  lif hi«r, »« 
fore  they  reach  any  rough  road,  their  loading  ia  much  rwluci-d. 
Peraona  ahould  reeollecl  thai  every  thing  in  the  outfit  ahmiW 
be  <ui  lieht  aa  the  required  ttrength  wiU  permit ;  no  uaeleaa 
minipery  should  be  taken.   The  lu«ding  ahould  conaiat  of  pro- 
viaicma  and  apparel,  a  nene-aary  aupply  of  cooking  exuir«a, 
a  few  Uiola,  iic     No  great  apwiulation  can  be  made  in  buy- 
ing cattle  and  driving  them  through  to  aell ;  but  aa  the  ftu-^» 
ofoEen  and  cowa  are  much  hif^her  ia  Oregon  thsii  m  ihe 
Statea,  nothing  ia  loal  in  having  a  good  iuupiy  of  them,  which 
will  enable  the  emigrant  to  wag-m  through  many  artjclea  tha 
are  difficult  to  Jmj  obtained  in  Oregon.     Each  family  ahowW 
have  a  few  cowa,  aa  the  milk  can  be  uaed  the  enure  rjote,  and 
they  are  often  convenient  to  put  to  the  wagon  to  relieve  own. 
They  ahould  be  »o  aelecled  that  portion*  of  them  would  come 
in  freah  upon  the  road.    Sheep  can  alao  be  advaatageoualv 
driven.    Amarieaii  horaea  and  marea  alwaya  command  high 
prices,  and  with  careful  usage  can  be  taken  throu|h  j  but  if 
uaed  U)  wagona  or  earrlagea,  their  loading  aliottld  be  light 
Each  family  ahould  be  provided  with  a  aheet-iron  Jtov^  with 
boiler;  »  platform  can  eaaily  be  conatruel*d  for  earrying  it  ai 
the  hind  end  of  the  wagon  t  and  aa  it  Ja  fr«i«eoUy  quite  wrady, 
and  there  ia  often  a  scMcity  of  wood,  the  atove  la  very  oonve- 
Dient.     Each  Umily  ahould  alao  be  provided  with  «  leo^  and 
to  it  ahould  be  attached  good  atrong  eonto  to  faalen  it  down. 

The  cooking  fixturea  generally  ua«jl  are  of  ah^f  ireo  i  m 
dutch  oven  and  akillet  of  caat  metal  are  very  eaa^nud.  ¥lai«i. 
eupa,  Ac,  ahould  be  of  Un  ware,  aa  qoeena-ware  la  much 
heavier  and  liable  to  break,  and  conaumea  much  Ume  in  Mok- 
iogup.  A  reflector  ia  aoroaamea  very  uaeful.  Famdiea  ahould 
each  have  two  ehurna,  one  for  carrying  aweet  and  one  for  aoar 
milk.  They  ahould  ala»T  have  one  eight  or  ten  galloa  knr  lor 
earrying  water,  one  axe.  one  ahovel,  two  or  three  augei^  on* 
hand  aaw,  and  if  a  farmer  he  ahould  be  prpvid^  with  one 
eroeaHSUt  aaw  and  a  few  plough  moulda,  aa  it  la  diffieult  getting 
aueh  artidea.  Whea  I  left  the  country,  pUnifhi  eoat  fro» 
twentyfivt  to  forty  dolUie  each.    A  good  eapply  of  rope*  for 


»tUfl ;  they  thould  b« 
kvy  made. 

il  ia  not  mTv  to  sttrl 
h«v  art  liabU  to  gat 

One  team  thua  flttad 
•five  hutidrci)  pound* 
that  much  lif hlar,  b« 
ding  ia  inurh  mlucrO. 
(  in  th«  outfit  ahmiid 
11  perknit ;  no  uattleaa 
ahould  eonaial  of  pro- 
f  uf  cooking  fixuinw, 
can  b«  made  in  boy- 
ell  ;  but  M  the  pric«a 
:  Oregon  thao  in  the 
luupiy  o(  thain,  which 
f  h  many  artiolaa  that 
Each  family  ahouUl 
id  tha  entire  rMte,  and 
iragon  to  reliuve  oxen. 
I  of  tham  would  come 
lao  be  advantageoualv 
ilwaya  <!onimaod  hign 
«ken  through  {  but  if 
iding  aliotdd  be  light 

aheet>iron.alov«,  with 
otMi  for  earrying  it  at 
reqnently  quite  windy, 
le  atofe  ia  very  oonve- 
jvided  with  «  tent,  and 
ik  to  faaten  it  down. 
;  are  of  aheet  iron ;  » 
very  eea^niid.  PUt««i| 
queena-ware  ia  much 
i«a  much  time  in  paoko 
laeful.  Familica  ahould 
aweel  and  one  for  aour 
It  or  ten  galloa  knr  for 
o  or  three  augera,  om 
be  provided  with  one 
,  aa  it  ia  diffieult  getting 
try,  pioacha  eoat  fron 
oodaiipplytrf' ropes  for 


THK  aa^ltV  MOUTTAIN*. 


141 


tying  up  hortea  and  catching  cattle,  ahould  alao  b«  taken 
Every  p«f«on  ihould  U  well  auf-plied  with  booU  and  ahuee 
and  in  lart  with  every  kind  of  c  oihing.  It  ia  aJao  well  to  ht 
auppliad  with  at  leaat  one  feather  bed,  and  a  good  •••orlmenl 
of  bedding.  There  are  no  tame  geeae  m  the  country,  but  aa 
Hbundaii«e  of  wiklonees  yet  il  ta  diffieult  proc  iring  a  auffl 
cient  fluanUty  of  feathera  for  a  bed.  The  Muecovy  ia  the  only 
tame  d«ek  n  the  country. 

ZkW  :r.Je  pereon  ahcjuld  have  at  leaat  one  ilfle  gun,  and  a 
ahot  gun  ia  alao  very  uaeful  tor  wild  fowl  and  imali  game,  i>t 
which  there  ia  an  abundance.  'I'^ie  beet  »i«rd  calibre  for  tiie 
mountaina  ia  from  thirtyHwo  tu  fifty-aix  to  llie  (Mmnd  ;  bMt  one 
of  from  aixty  to  eighty,  or  even  leaa,  ia  beat  when  tu  the  lower 
eettlemftnta.  The  buffalo  aeldom  range  beyond  the  South 
V»*a,  and  never  weet  of  Hreen  river.  The  larger  game  are 
elk,  deer,  antelojie,  lu'uniain  aheop  «r  bighorn,  and  bear.  The 
amall  gamp  are  hare,  rabbit,  grouae,  aage  hen.  pheaaan^  quail, 
&«.    A  good  aupply  of  awmonilion  ta  eaaential. 

In  laying  in  a  aupply  of  proviaioiia  for  the  iourney,  peraona 
will  doubUeea  be  governed,  in  aome  degree,  by  their  meaaa ; 
but  there  *»  a  few  eaemiiala  that  all  will  require. 

For  eaph  adult,  theie  ahould  be  two  hundred  pounda  of 
flour,  thirty  pounda  of  pilot  broad,  «evenly-five  pounda  of 
becon,  ten  pounda  of  ri'^e,  five  pounda  of  coffee,  two  pounda 
of  m,  twenty^ve  poun  la  of  aogar,  hall  a  huahel  of  dried  boana, 
one  buahel  of  dried  fruit,  two  pounda  of  aaleralua,  ten  pounda 
of  aalt,  half  a  buahel  of  com  meal ;  and  it  ia  well  to  have  » 
half  buahel  of  corn,  parched  and  ground;  a  amall  keg  of  vinegar 
•hould  alao  be  taken.  I'o  the  above  may  be  added  aa  many 
good  thinge  a*  the  meane  of  the  peraon  will  enable  him  to  carry ; 
for  whatever  ia  good  at  Kome,  ia  none  the  leea  ao  on  the  road. 
The  above  will  be  ample  for  the  journey  t  but  ahould  aa  ad- 
ditional quantity  be  taken,  it  can  readily  be  diajpo^ed  of  in  th« 
moaataina  and  at  good  piicea,  noi  for  rawh,  but  for  robea,  dreaa. 
ed  akim,  buckakin  panta,  moceaaioa,  die.  It  ia  alao  \.  ell  for 
fattiUiea  te  be  provided  with  medieinea.  It  ia  aeldom  however, 
that  emigrania  are  aiek ;  but  aometimea  eating;  loo  freely  of  freeh 
bnffalo  meat  eauaea  diarrhom,  and  unleaa  it  be  cheeked  aoon 
wtoetratM  the  Individual,  and  leavec  him  a  fit  aubjecl  for  diaeaae. 

The  time  uaoally  occupied  in  making  the  trip  from  Mitaouri 
to  Oregon  dty  ia  about  five  montha ;  but  with  the  aid  of  • 
ntraon  who  haa  traveled  the  rout*  with  an  emigrating  eonptax 
die  trip  era  be  pevformed  in  ihcmt  four  nwDlhs. 


i 


144 


JOURNAL  or  Tiuvia*  ovr* 


Murh  injury  I.  don.  to  t«im.  in  fcm  'J'"' «"'  "'"l"; 
to  p.M  Jh  o«h.r.  Em.gT.ni.  .h.H,ld  ro.kB  .n  .m v  d.y 
bu..ne..   of  tr.»rlmg-r«.t.n«   upon   "«  ,  •"7 .  «'^"i  '*! 

h?  OeUin.  .nlo  Urg«  comp.n.«.  -houU  *«  •'"'i*;'' "J^'i 
»•  n.ce.«r^y  oomp«ll.d  u,  .»«v«  men.  urd.ly.  t'  ™  "Ti^ 
Jimuyflv.  w.«..«.  \n  .  .ufllc«nl  number  ««*'''-/ 1,^;"^"^: 
•rh«  ^Ivanra  .nd  r«.r  comp».u*.  .hould  nol  J«  »«••  ^'•"  J,'^ 
ly  5  hui  lH.lwe.n.  U  m.y  »«  ..fe  to  go  wiOi  lU.  Thelndi.n. 
.re  vary  .nnoyinf  on  .ccunl  of  thmr  ihietring  propen.iU.-, 
hul  if  well  w..rhed.  ihey  wouM  ..Idom  put  them  into  pr.cUc.. 
Ferl.  "hrid     w.y.  i^void  r.n.bl.ng  far  from  c.mp  un.rm.d. 

Snd  if  he  .itempu  to  get  .w.y  from  ihem  wtth  h«  properi), 
thov  will  .oineiimee  "hoot  him.  .„!--.«»■ 

•here  are  .ever.l  point.  tlonR  the  Mwourl  whor.  ••"^^ 
h.ve  been  in  the  pr.cli.e  of  fltiin«  out.  Of  the.e  Indepen- 
de^ce.  8  J^ph.knd  Council  Uluflr.,.re  the  mo.t  "ot-J-  For 
iCmiirTJiur  from  Ohio.  Indi.n..  lUinoi.  «nd  northern 
Miluri  Towl  .nd^  MichiRan.  I  think  St.  Jo.eph  the  be.t 

7  which  tt  the  early  .ea.on  we  travel  are  .omoume.  »ery  nign 
.  a  oidS      Outfii  may  be  had  at  thi.  H"«.  «•  ""d.Jy  «  .1 
anv  o  her  alonit  the  river.     Work  cattle  can  be  bought  in  iU 
St%r&  twenty-ftv.  to  Uurty  dolUr.  per  yoke.  cow., 
hortes.  Ac,  equally  cheap.  •  .  .,  «.  Inmmoh  earlv  in 

"rive  mOregon  nntil  after'lhe  rainy  .ea«,n  eommence.  in  the 
"^  Th'^3ini™n 'Srn  Ohio.  Indiana,  lllinoi.  M.chi. 

gan*  r,  X  ^'ntempUve  traveling  ^^ '"''J^  '^l,?.:;:;  1 
rendeivou..  .hould  .urt  in  timo  to  give  their  team,  at  !«••»  »J» 
TyVJr  Ox  te«„.,  after  traveling  four  or  five  hundred  mdw 
Tn'AJtute*,  at  thai  .ea«.n  of  the  year.  -^^  t."l£y  mffi 
tm  a  journey  acro«  the  ™««°^"' ' ''"l^*;'*;  '*"^  "'"^ 
be  exchanged  for  other.,  at  or  near  the  rendeivou.. 

Farmw.  would  do  well  to  uke  along  a  good  .upp  y  ol  horw 
gea4  M-hanic  .hould  take  .uch  t^U l^^^^^^^. 
i»  there  are  but  few  in  the  counuy,  and  thoee  are  new  »i « 


iL 


Tint  MCKY  IIOtNTAJNa 


I4S 


ovrji 

ing  lh«in.  en<l««*onii| 
I  nukn  an  •very  day 
lie  iunw  fTound  »wo 
r<i  likely  ui  rambU  loo 
lU)  l»e  •toi.led.  tf  vhity 
<  urdily.  From  l^n  to 
et  to  IrHvnl  willi  Mrety. 

not  b«  1«M  than  iwro* 
viih  lix.    The  Inditiw 

thieving  propeiwiliee, 
put  ihem  into  prectice. 
ar  from  camp  unarmed, 
iiielimci  aeek  auch  op- 
iFerta  he  haa  about  him  | 
Jmib  with  hia  property, 

iteouri  whore  emijjrant* 
ut.  Of  iheae  Indepr n- 
ire  the  moat  noted.  For 
,  lUinoia  and  northern 
ik  St.  Joeeph  the  beat 
laing  of  aevural  atreama 
re  aomelimea  very  high) 
ia  point,  aa  readily  aa  at 
ille  can  be  bought  in  iu 
dolUra  per  yoke,  oowa, 

>e  »i  Rt  Joaeph  early  in 
up  the  line  of  march  by 
*rever,  have  of^en  aUrted 
auch  caaea  they  aeldom 
leaaon  tommencea  in  the 

Indiana,  lUinoia,  Miohi- 
by  land  to  the  pleee  of 
^e  their  teama  at  leaat  ten 
our  or  five  hundred  milea 
»r,  would  be  unfit  to  per- 
;  but  dnubtleee  they  mtgnt 
\e  rendeivoua. 
ng  a  good  aupply  of  horae 
loolaaaoreeaailycarrUd; 
and  thoee  are  held  at  •<• 


orliiiant  prirfi.    Kvery  family  ahould  lay  In  •  food  aupply  of 
ichool  hooka  for  tlinir  clnl.lran.  ,,.,111 

III  caae  ..f  nn  eiurrgrnoy.  Hour  can  »>«  bought  at  F<trt  llnll. 
•nd  Fort  l><ii-.  two  trading  po«ta  of  Ih.-  Ilu.itoii'.  Uay  t-oin- 
p«„y.  at  twenty  .lollare  per  hundred  i  ai.d  by  forwardmg  w.ml 
k>  Spaldiiig'a  niiaaiun,  on  the  Ka«akoo«kee.  they  will  pack  out 
flour  to  Fort  lloia.  nt  tan  dollm  per  hundred,  and  to  the  OramI 
Hound  atei«ht  dollara,  and  will  t«ko  in  exchange  dry  gooda. 
gr.)ceriea,  &<••!  but  at  Forta  Hall  and  lloia,  the  com  p..  ny  will 
take  nothing  In  payment  but  caah  of  cattle.  At  Dr.  Whitman  a 
itation.  flour  can  be  bought  at  five  dollara  per  hundred,  corn 
mral  ut  four  dollara.  bee?  at  aix  and  feveo  oenU  per  pound, 
p„l,toea.  fifiy  cotita  per  buahrl.  It  ia  proper  to  obaerve  thai 
ihe  flour  ttt  Spahling'.  and  VVhlt.nan'a  alationa  will  be  unbolu 
ed.  Emigraiiu  howevar,  ahould  be  cautioua,  and  lay  u  a  euf* 
Acicnt  aupply  to  iMt  them  through. 


It 


"■■••» 


WORDS  USED  IN 


THE   CHINOOK   JARGON. 


This  is  a  tonpie  spoken  by  a  few  in  each  of  the  tribes  re- 
siding in  the  middle  and  lower  divisions  of  Oregon.  It  is  also 
iised  by  the  French,  and  nearly  all  the  old  settlers  in  the 
country. 


^ach 
Sister 

Ma 
Yes 

^Ika 

Future,  by  and  by 

Ma 
Present,  now 

Ala 

I  wonder 

Mkott 
Past  time 
Chawho 
Come 
Che* 
New 

Chinkamin 
Iron,  chain 

Chuek 
Water 

Deob 
Satan 

DdU 
Dry 

EHh 
Brother-in-law 


Ekik 
Fish-hook 

ElHah 
Slave 
Eaick 
Paddle 

EsU 
Com 

Geleech 
Grease 

Halo 
None 

Hankachim 
Handkerchief 

Horn 
House 

How 
Let  us 

Hod-hod 
Mouse 

High-you 
O'isrtity,  many 

High-you-k-u>ah 
Ring 

Hul-u-e-ma 
Strange,  different 


Hu-e-hu 
Swop,  exchange 

Hoi 

Drag,  or  pull 

Ilipa 
First 

Ith-lu'd,  or  hud 
Meat,  desh 

I-yak 

Quick,  01-  hurry 

ll-a-ht 
Soil,  dirt 

Jchwd 
Bear 
Ja-kum 
Take 

In'O-ti 
Overdress 

JthJu-k-ma 
Gamble 

I'Wa 
Beaver 

Ipi'toet 
Hide 

Ik-ta 
What 

147 


U8 

Kah 
Where 

K'U-ta\ 

Horse 

Kaw'lo-kt-to 

Gooae 

Ka4uck 

Swan 

K-puH 
Needle 

Kot-tuek 

Middle 

Kap-o 

Coat 

Kct-nim 

Canoe 

Ka-ta 

Why 

Kap'iu-alla 

Theft,  Ileal 

K4itm 
Lead 

Kaw-kaw 

Crow 

Klat'tHoah 

Go,  Walk 

Kul-a-kuUa 

Fowl 

Kum-tux 


DEnNITlON  OF  INDIAN  WOUDB. 


K-tvathen 

Bell 

K'tnacki 

Dog 

Klvgh 

Split,  or  Plough 

Ko-ptt 
Done,  finished 

Kop-po 
Older  brother 

Kow 
Is  to  tie 

K-wat 
Hit 

Kop-thut 
Broken. 

Ko 
Arrived 

Ktm-to 
Behind 

Kolh 
Fence 

Kutt 
Hard 
Klimin 
Fine 

Kle-il 
Black 
Ka-tcat 


Know,  or  understand  Afraid 
Ke-a-wtdt  Kom-mek 


Love 
All 

Slow 
K-walten 
The  ear 


Beads 

K6-ko-wett 

Eel 

Klcmt 
Find 

JTouMteHit* 
How  many 


Kilapt 
Turn  over 

Klip* 
Upset 

Ko-tl 
Cold 

Kap-wah 

Alike 

Kon'O-maxt 

Both 

Klo'Sum 

Good-bye 

Kta-hi-you 

How  do  you  do 

JTatr-a-nainm 

Alwaya 

A7a-Aa-na 

Out 

Klim^n-wit 

A  falsehood 

Krap-po 
Toad 

Kloae 
Good     - 

Klat-ko 
Them,  thoM 

Korio 

Rum 

Ko-pa 

There 

KUJo 

Ketde 

Klont-tua 

I  do  not  undentand 

Klop-$ta 
Who 

Khuth-mofi 
Female 


ORDS. 


DmitmOJI  OF  INDIAN  WORDS. 


14t 


Kilapi                               I 

Ktt-koot 

Turn  over                           ■ 

Down 

Klipi                                 I 

Lrpo4o 

UpMt                                           ■ 

Pan 

Ko-tl                                I 

Le-por-»hel 

Cold                                  I 

Fork 

Kap-wah 
Alike 

Lehash 

Axe 

Kon-tMtttud 

Leg-utin 

Both 

Saw 

Kla'hum 

Lima 

Good-bye 

The  hand 

Kta-hi-you 

LUa 

How  do  you  do 

Head 

Kaw-a-4ia$nm 

Z«^e4 

Alwaye 

Feet 

A7a-Aa-na 

LtHnorlai 

Out 

Molasaee 

jr/im-tn-t0tt 

Z«fnon-fo 

AfiUebood 

Sheep 

Krap^o 

I/nett 

Toad 

Jacket,  or  vest 

Klou 

Zo-g) 

Good 

Rope 

Klafko 

lAp4a$h 

Them,  thoM 

Boards 

JTo-ao 

Z«p-toa 

Rum 

Peas 

Ko-pa 
There 

skmet 

KU4o 

Za-t0tn 

Ketde 

Oats 

jnone^t 

jxi*rAfii 

I  do  not  underttand 

Oar.forbotta 

Klop-9ta 

U^WMk 

Who 

Snow 

Kiotuh-maii 

X<fium/< 

Female 

MoBBtain 

Saddle 

Lt'lo-im 

Sharp 

Le-poim 

Apple 

iM-buth 
Mouth 

Le-da 
Teeth 

Ze-Au 

Neck 

LMnora 

Wild 

lAuhimney 

Chimney 

Lemitten 
Mitten 
La-haJa 
Feel 

Le4e 

A  long  time 

Ixu-vattt 

■ilk 

La-ttm 

Tablo 

Lep-o-lip 

Boil 

Le-nt-wtU 

Stan 

LMnit-rem 

Medicine 

Le-thaw 

Shoe 

Le-tack 

Back,  or  bag 

Xe-otam 
White  bear 


Le-lu 
Panther 

Lt'pul 
Chickeni 

Leeor$tt 
Trunk 
Laport 
Door 

Leiiip  I 

Pipe 

LoJo 
Carry,  or  tota 

Leb-ya 
Old  womaa 

La4ure 
Hoe 

iM-eopt 
White 

La-cre-tne 
Yellow 
Mas-thtro 
Bad 

Met-lite 

Residence,     aitting 
down,  ite, 

Mal-ha-na 
As,  in  the  river;  or. 
push  off  the  boat 

Man 

Male 

MotO'ttch 

Deer 

MuAttck 

Elk 

Catde 

Afe-M*Jfca 

Plural  of  yon 


ISO 

Muck-rt'tnuck 
Provisions,  eat 

Musket 
Rifle,  or  gun  • 

Moon 
Month 

Mo-kah 

Buy 

Mim-a-looahed 

Die,  or  dead 

Mal'hu-ale 

Back 

Mfka 

You 

Ni-ka 

I,  or  me 

Nan-ach 
Look,  or  see 

lia-ha 
Mother 

New-ha 
Let 

Now-il-k 
Yes,  certainly 

ye-ai-ka 
We,  us 

Neim 
Name 

0-ea-kni 
Caps 

Oel-man 
Old 


DEnNmoN  or  indian  worm. 


O-ep-eati 
Basket 
O-rp-in-pin 
Skunk 

0-f-liU 
Berries 

0-e-pick 
Both 

0-elk 
Snake 

04o 

Hungry 

Oel'hin 
Seal 

0-koke 
This,  or  that 

Pi-yah 
Fire 

Poa-ton 
Americans 

Pee 
And 
Put 
If 

Puaa 
Cat 

Piah-haah 
Polecat 

Pot'Seeu 
Blanket 

Pot-latch 
Give 
Pole-ally 
Powder 

Po-et 


O-pet-sa 
Knife 

0-pet-wa 

Wonder,  aMonUhment  Boat 

Oto  Pa-pa 

Brother  Pap«r 


Papo 
Father 

Pit 

Red 

Pe-ehi 

Green 
Pat-U 
Full 

Poo 

Shoot 

Pe-teek 

The  world 

Pillon 
Foolish 

Pal-a-k-lo 

Night 

Pet-hockt 

Thickety 

Pia-aaj/-uke$ 

French 

Quaek-quack 

Duck 

Si-tooMh 

Indians 

Swat 
Rain 

High 

Stick 
Wood 

Seck-um 
Swim 
Si-yaw 
Far 

Sap-a4il 
Flour 

Sthga 
Sugar 


I 


! 


■H 


'ORIM. 

Papo 
Father 

Pil 
Red 

PfChi 

Green 
Pat.h 
Full 

Poo 

Shoot 

Pe-ttek 

The  world 

Pilton 
Foulith 

Pal-a-hio 

Night 

Pei-hocki 

Thickety 

Pii-»aj/-uke$ 

French 

Quaek-quack 

Duck 

Si-wath 

Indiana 

Swat 
Rain 

Stth'tee 
High 

Stick 
Wood 

Seek-um 
Swim 
Si-yaw 
Far 

Sap'a4il 
Flour 

Sthga 
Sugar 


INBFINmON  or  INDIAN  WORDS. 


See-a-lukes 
Pantaloons 

Sap-a-pul 
Hat 

Sto-m 
Rock 

SU 
Shirting 

Sko-kutn 
Strong,  stout 

Sec-fite 
To  miss 
See-ah-ot-ti 
Face,  or  eyes 
Sam^non 
Fish 
Sto-gon 
Sturgeon 

Son-dro 
Roan 

SaU 
Salt 

Shu-e» 
Shoes 

Sun 

Sun,  or  day 

Silk-um 
Half,  or  a  part 

Smo'tk 
Smoke 

Std-ltds 
Mad,  angry 

Six 
Friends 

Sirk 

Sick,  or  sore 

Shta 
Shirt 


Shot 
Shot 

Sup-ner 

Jump 

7V/-rt-*ti»» 

People 

Til-the-ko-ep 

Cut 

7\im4um 

The  heart 

Te-o-wit 

Leg 

Tum-pe-h 

Back 

Tatn-o-lack 

Barrel 

Master,  or  chief 

Tes'um 

Pretty 

ToJo4>u$ 

Wolf 

Te-ko-ep 

While 

Te-mo-lo 
To-morrow 

Tu-ltuk 
Milk 

Ttp-io 
Grass 
7\im-tuk 
Water-falls 


ToJo 

Win,  or  gain 

Te-ma-ha$ 
Poison 

Ti-pee 

An  ornament 

7'e-*oA 
Want 

nil 

Heavy,  or  tired 

Toe-ta 
Doctor 

Wah-wah 

Talk,  conversation 

Wake 
No,  not 

ffap-a-to 
Potato 

Win 
Wind 

Warn 
Warm 
Welch 
More 

Va-ka 

Him,  she,  it 
Yaw-wah 
Yonder 

Yok-sa 
Hair 

Va-ha-la 

Name 

Full-cut 

Long 

You-tiH 

Glad,  proud 


lit 


OBTiNmoN  o*  nn>iA»i  woti* 


OaiNOOV  MODI  or  OOHFUtlM*  travMM. 


IKt 

Mak$t .  .  .  • 
Klont  .  •  •  • 

Lak$t 

K-win'mm  • 
Torhum-  •  • 
Sifia-maxt  - 
Souhthxnt-  ' 
K-wi-et$t  •  • 
Taih'ta-ham 
Dih-pe-iht 
Dih^ptnatt  •  •  ' 
J)U(hp4^ona  •  • 
JHIo-p4akit  .  . 
DUo-p-k^nnim 
DUoihta-hum  • 


•  «  •  •  • 


:i 

.8 

•  4 
.5 

•  0 

•  7 
8 

.0 
10 
.11 
•  13 
.18 
.M 
.16 
.10 


17 
18 
If 
20 
.80 


Dilo-p'tin-iMnaxt  •  • 
Dilo^lh*ow-akin$  •  • 
DUo-p^fwUM  .  .  . 
TatMihhun  makit  • 
Talh-la-hun  klont  •  • 

Tttih4a-hun  lakit 40 

T\aK-la4iun  k-mn-ma  «  •  60 
7Vi/A-/»Jkttn /«-Aum .  .  •  .60 
TatM»-^un lin-a-mart '  .TO 
7*a/A4»Jktm  tow-akint  .  .  80 
7>i/A4M-Atin  hwi-ti$t .  •  •  00 

TYtA-c-fna-nux* 100 

Tajt-o-mo-maxt 300 

7%JHhmo-nuxt  Uone  •  •  800 

Tak-<hmo-nuxt  lakat  •  •  .400 

f/hk-o-m^^uxt  k-win-ninMOO 


WORDS  USED  IN  THE  NEZ  PBBCE  LANOUAOB. 


Talonoi 
Ox 

fyoKkt   . 
Clondi 

Talohin 

IToM 

BnU 

Rain 

Xuthilat 

HhctJuuha 

Calf 

Rains 

SMkwn 

Mttka 

HorM 

Boow 

Fox 

Hatia 

Wind 

Tah$put 

rahu 

Bmvtr 

Hot 

Xtlath 

TamtU 

Otwr 

OoM 

0a* 

-watm 

I  NinnKM. 

n-a-maxt IT 

)w-akini H 

wi-et$t It 

hun  tnak$t  .  •  .  •  20 

hun  klone 80 

hun  Ittktt 40 

hun  k-toin-ma  •  •  60 
hunta-huni'  •••00 
hun  tin-a-mart '  >n 
htm  aouf-tkint  •  •  80 
hun  hwi-tttt .  •  »99 

\«-nuxt 100 

)e-fnaxt 300 

nmuxt  Uone  •  •  800 
w-nuxt  lakat  •  •  •  400 
Kvnux/  A-t0Jn-n{in6OO 


ACE  LANOUAOE. 

Jpdiht  . 

Clondi 

HakU 

Rain 

HheakoMka 

Rains 

Maka 

Snow 

HaHa 
Wind 

Faku 
Hot 

Tamltt 
Gold 


1S4 


osriNmoN  or  iniman  womm» 


Vahel 

Shatn 

Koko 

Necii 

Shirt 

Raven 

Nahio 

I^ka 

HoutiU 

Silmofi 

Pine 

Oooat 

Thihti 

ha 

Houtot 

Up 

Mother 

Gael* 

Jitim 

Nitu 

raym 

Arm 

Child 

Swan 

Matioyet 
Eur 

Mmneiat 

Fatin 

Children 

Cran* 

Piama 

IRkai 

Pap$ 

Brothers 

Pail 

Fir.  (trw) 

Kdah 

Siihnim 

Kopkop 

Sturgeon 

Thorne 

Cottonwood 

fVayu 
Ug 

.     SUulua 
Friend 

Alder 

Kupkup 
Baclc 

Lantuama 

7M« 

Frifnda 

Willows 

TSmi'na 

fValotakai 

TYfiM 

Heart 

Pan 

Cherry, 

Sho 

KuUh 

SatduuxUtkm 

Spoon 

Riak 

Com 

Kahno 

Shuahai 

Pakt 

Pmirie-hen 

Grau 

Wheat 

Huhui 

iSuyam 

Lapotat 

Shoulder 

Sucker 

Potatoes 

Pitht 

Haihu 

f''P*_. 

Father 

Eel 

A  spriiig 

fValpiOuah 
Auger 

Shakantai 

Wawahjt 
Spring  (seaaon) 

Katlua 

Sholothah 

Tiam 

Duck 

Fiah-hawk 

Summer 

^ikt^ 

WtuhuHuhM 

Shahmm 

Brother 

Hen 

Fall 

JSIttnatan 

Koun 

Amm 

Sitter* 

Dove 

Winter 

Kinit 

Aa 

Ptbuh 

8iBtar 

*Crow 

,    ^iGooaebenf 

.'A 
4l 


BBFiwi'iiofi  or  inwAN  yfovm. 


IW 


Koko 
Kaven 

J/outat 

OooM 

Houtat 

G«M« 

Vayo 
8wtn 

Fatin 
Cnm 

Fir,  (Um) 

JTopftop 
Cottonwood 

mih 

Alder 

7aA« 
Willows 

TYfiM 
Cherry, 

Satduw<Utku$ 
Corn 

Whmt 

Lapatat 

PoiakMS 

Aipridg 

FfowoAp 
Spring  (Muon) 

Tiam 
Summer 

Shahnim 
FaU 
Afdm 
Winter 
P*bt»h 
^jGooMbenry 


Kikaya 
Servieeberry 

Kahat 

Milk 

Aa/amnaiMdbi0 

Peia 

Hahuhtoahu 

Gre«B 

Inina 

HonM 

ParinifM 

tnUain 

For  a  hooM 

Mtpa 

To  the  home 

Inilkinai 
From  the  hoaee 

Initrim 
Houee  only 

OfllMMM 

By  e  houee 

Initph 
To  a  hoaee 
Ihniai 
Not  made 

JTomatoal 
Amechaaie 

Hanithimai 
Not  a  meehanie 

TTamtainat 
Preaeher 

Teacher 

Trader 


Timanauat 
A  writer 
Sapaliknawat 
A  labourer 

Made 

Have  made 
Hanilatathm 
WiU  make 

HaMkika 

Made  going 

HmtUna 

Made  coming 

Ipna  hani  ai$hm 
Make  for  hin 

HanUoim 
Go  and  make 
Toihhama 
Good  man 

TVuA  /Jintna 
Good  heart 
Taih  thikam 
Good  honie 
T%$kan  $hUuun 
Fatborae 

Hatntii  ihikai» 
Fasthoree 
Kaptktat  MJutm 
Strong  n< 
Simnith  $hikam 
Laiy  horse 
Kaptit  thikam 
Bad  horse 
Bmhid  thikam 
White  horse 

Hahat 
Gray  Bear 


Vaka 
Black  bear 

Ktmo 
Old  man 

Tahta 
Young  man 

Otwai 
Old  woman 

Timai 
Young  womaa 

Pithai 
Father-in-law 

PUhat 
8on-in«law 

Siwnko 
Mother-in-law 

^waka 
Daughur-in-law 

Jnaya 
Brother-in-law 

Sikt 
Sister-in-law 

Pimh 
Step.ratber 

Kaka 
Step-mother 

Lemakdt 
Deep 

Pakat 
Shallow 

Mtd 
Rapids 

Amtluih 
Breaker     ' 

ff^atat 
Land 
PUhwai 
Stonee 


m 


IM 


IBPIIimnw  am  inmam  %! 


Mah$ham 

mikakoknik* 

MounUin 

H«  gallop* 

£uh*in 

mkHUUm 

HiU 

H«<ro«i 

Tahpam 

MmUmilUhm 

PItin 

H«  p«eM 

Huntiktm 

HiwalakdJu 

Boofh 

H«  waUm 

TifUnU 
Smooth 

HUkauUkUu 
Ha  miM 

mipwUp 

TUitkkm  BhOum 

Round 

FathoriM 

PoM 

Mdumvkt  •MAmu 

V«U«7 

Borral  iKMaa 

Tuhmn 

Hihaihm  thikm 

Rid|» 

White  aonw 

/watam 

TVmwi^M  tAOtoM 

Lake 

Spotted  horse 

Tikim 

TUmmHlp  tkikmm 

V»l\» 

Spotted  horeea 

Hitkawi$h« 

Heftlb 

SmmI 

Kohat  tawiih 

J&Aott 

Long  horn 

Cattle 

mskankokalk 

HiwMm 

Poor  ox 

The  rtTer  i*  riabig 

LUkmtMMM 

Htfeuau* 

0«ttti«  OOWS 

The  river  ia  AiUiaf 

HcridM 

TbawamrroM 

It  ia  fordabk 

Hattu  hiyanikm 
Ifood  ia  floating 

Mwmtmtm 

The  water  mna 

^aA4MtM««Mt 

The  day  ia  dawniflg 

Wmke  kikmmm 
It  ia  daylight  now 

HUinatrm 
The  «an  ia 

JVttk«  kaUip$ 
One  day 

HikuUmU$a 
It  ia  rvaatag 
Xaoim 

Daylight 

/la/fu  hialika 
The  wood  id  lodged 

JRa  toooii&aAt 
W«  are  eroaeiqg 

KmaitapinmUu 
Letoaaleep 

Kaapakipt 
Let  na  eat 

Xaapahu 
Letnago 

Letiwgobadt 


e^gfg^ttigmi 


fWaioik0tk 
It  ki  fonlabU 

Hat$u  AiyaniAM 
Ifood  ia  floaiinf 

I/lwmlMtm 

Tho  walar  niM 

/AiAanwHiMMii 
The  day  It  dawaiog 

IF«b  hikmatm 
It  ia  (kylight  now 

HiiiMtrm 
Th«  «tin  it 

JVcuk*  heJap* 
Out  day 
mktiimoU$« 
It  ia  rvaatag 
JTMtim 
Dayliffht 
//o/fu  hialika 
The  wood  U  lodfid 

Mitt  wiuiiUthi 
W«  ara  eroaaiaf 

Km  apapinmUu 
Latnaaleap 

Kdofakipt 
Lainaaat 

Kaapdhu 
Ii«t«ago 
JhapvtUtn 
Latnagobadt 


MMimwioii  wtmuM 


Nu  Pms  MOBB  Of  ooarvTiMo  Mtmaiaa. 


jVii*a 

Z^ 

JliUti 

PUapt 

/»•*•/ 

mUiki 

mmofi 

mmatmt 

Kiiu 

Puiifi^ 

PuHmpt  mmk  ntk»  • 
Puiimpt  w€A  l*pU  • 
Putimft  uhA  mU<a  • 
P%aimft  wah  pUtqtt  • 
J*uHmp*mAp€ihia. 
Puiimpt  vmk  wUmh$ 


.1 

•  • 

.4 
.8 

•  • 

•  T 
.» 
.« 
10 
11 
IS 

.IS 
.14 
.IS 
.IS 
.17 


AiKm^  ttwA  ttimatat 
PvUimpt  wok  kui$ 

UptU 

Xtfrtil  «MiA  ndka 

MUaptU 

PihptU 

PmktiptU 

miaktaptU 

mnaptii 

ffimittg>Ht 

Mm»mpHt 

p¥t«ptU 

LtfoakuM 

Miotkm 

PeUfot^u 

PukMkut' 


Ili 


TASLfi  or  StSTAiiCgS 


TABtM  or  WI»TANCE«  rmOM  IJIDEFrNDKNCK.  MIMOUMi   ANB  tT 

jonKPii,  TO  ottEuoN  crrr,  in  omujox  tsrwtoby. 


F«OM  Inditpendenca  to  lUndnivoui 40 

••     RenJeivou*  to  Elm  Oro»« •* 

-     Klin  drove  to  Wtlkannha '0 

"     Walkarushs  to  cro««in|r  of  Kiimm  rlMf •• 

"     Kaniaa  to  crixiaing  of  "Turkey  creek  •  • '4 

"    Turkey  rretik  t«i  Lmle  Vermilion M 

•*     liitUe  VermiUoo  to  brmnrh  of  eamo     18 

•«     To  Big  Vermilion,  wiih  Inlerinediato  campe 99 

**     Vermilidn  to  Lee't  tfwioh • 

"     I^o'»  hraiirh  to  BIf  Blue ; • 

«•     Dig  Blue  to  ilie  jiinciion  with  St.  Joetph'e  inH  ...  10 
The  diiUnca  from  Ht.  Joiwph.  Miwonri,  to  the  Inde- 
pamlenoe  trail,  atrikins  it  ten  mile*  weet  .1  Blue  river,  U 
about  one  hundred  mifta.     Good  carapa  <  an  ho  had  from 
eight  to  fifteen  miles  apart 

From  ftirka  of  road  ae  abote,  to  Big  Hmdjr,  atriklng  U 
near  iu  junction  with  the  U«jpub!icaB  Fork  of 

Blue  river,  with  interme<liale  caiiipe 48 

••     Sandy  to  Kepublican  fork  of  Blue  river 18 

»     up  Bepublioan  fork,  with  good  campa M 

»     Republican  fork  to  Big  Platte • 80 

"    up  Big  PUtlfl  to  the  croneing  of  South  fork 180 

Carope  can  be  had  at  euitablo  diauncea,  with  wood  for 
fuel  upon  the  ialanda. 
From  lower  to  upper  croeaingt  of  8ou*h  fork  .......   40 

There  u  a  road  on  each  aide  of  the  river,  and  but  lulle 
choice  in  them. 

From  South  to  Nor'h  fork,  at  A«h  Hollow W 

"    Aah  Hollow  to  opposite  Solitary  Tower,  on  LitU« 

creek <« 

••     LItUe  creek  to  oppoeite  Chimney  rock  .......    16 

M     Chimney  Rock  to  where  the  road  leaves  the  River  •    1ft 

"     thence  to  Scott's  Bluffs  (Good  Spring) 10 

"    Scott's  Bluffs  to  llurse  creek 18 

••     Horse  creek  to  Fort  Lar»mie 84 

"    I«n<nie  to  Dry  Brmnch  and  Big  Spring 18 

••    to  Bitter  Cottonwood 10 


ICK,  MIMMOURIi   AND  Vr 

ION  ntmuTOHY. 

TSo 

II 

to 

a  river M 

nk U 

t4 

te 18 

Ibto  camps 99 

8 

. « 

JoMph't  trail  ...  10 
lonri,  lo  tha  Indo- 
it  of  Blue  river,  ia 
•  can  b«  had  from 

S«ndv.  striking  it 
H|iub!ican  Fork  of 

[■ampa 48 

le  river 18 

amps W 

30 

South  fork 180 

ces,  with  wood  for 

h  fork 46 

river,  and  but  liltl* 

illow 80 

f  Tower,  on  LitUa 

4a 

y  rock 10 

ui  leaves  the  River  *    1ft 
Ipring) 10 

.  .  , 84 

S  Spri»« IJ 


T4nJt  or  DiaTANom  IM 

To  Willow  Branch J 

"  llorim  Hhoa  Creek ,..••».•'•'      '  '  I 

"  Kiver '  '' •  •  •  • 

Thence  Ui  where  the  RomI  leevea  the  Hi»er ■ 

To  Big  Timber  ereelt   .  •  • '''  ^ 

"  MarbU  creek ,  .  .  • 

"  MikeVhead  cteek '* 

"  ihn  Itiver.  noaaing  sever*  alreems •  •  »" 

♦•  Deer  creek !.*.*',*„,''*'      '  en 

Thence  to  croeaiiw  of  North  fork  of  Platte »» 

From  croaaing  of  Platte  to  Mpring »" 

Thence  to  Mineral  Hpringa  (bad  camp) • 

..  Willow  Hprinjf  (g.wd  can.p)  •  • • 

"  lndcp.Mvl«in.e  Kock  on  8weot  Water •• 

Up  Sweet  Water  to  South  Paaa  (good  caropa) •  l«« 

Over  the  dividing  ridge  to  Pacillc  Spring,  the  waters  of 

which  run  into  Green  river •• 

IUri,  Hail  OiiKaoM  I 

From  Spring  lo  UlUo  Sandy :  *  ,*  *  T  '  '  '  *  *,  '  '^ 

Here  Uie  road  forks,  the  smithern  trail  going  bv  way  or 
Brldmr'e  Old  Fort,  and  tlienr<e  lo  Ucar  rivi-r.  The  north- 
ern Cwhich  U  two  and  a  half  daya  lea.  driving)  alnkes 
Green  river  about  forty  miles  above  Uie  southern  trail  S  I 
will  give  the  dtstanc/i  on  b<4h  routes.  _.    _     ,  « 

The  iiortli«rn  route,  from  Lillle  Sawly  to  Big  8«idy  •  •  •     » 

From  Big  H«n<ly  to  Green  river .'  '  '  ' 

(No  water  and  but  little  graaa  Utween.) 

"     thence  to  Bear  river,  (with  good  cimpe.) 0* 

On  the  southern  route : — 

Prom  Lille  Sandy  lo  Big  Sand/ »J 

Down  Big  Samly  lo  Green  nver ♦   •** 

Crose  Green  river  and  dovn ■ 

From  Green  river  lo  Black's  fork -  *  *   •« 

Up  Black's  fork  to  Bridger'sOid  Fort-  .  •  • »« 

From  Old  Fort  to  laide  Muddy  (poor  camp) ■ 

"    thence  to  Big  Muddy  (poor  camp)    ....••.-••    lo 
Up  Big  Muddy  to  the  dividing  ridge  (good  cwnp  neer 

head  of  creek) !  *    "* 

Over  dividing  ridge  to  spring '  '    *" 

Prom  spring  to  camp  on  Pear  river » 

"    thence  to  where  the  norlheru  trail  comee  m.  •  •  •     »w 


■M 


1^  TABUc  or  wnMoa. 

To  Smith'K  fork  ihree  miltf,  to  Narrow*  four  milee,  tnd 

thence  to  croMing  of  Bemr  river  three  ntlM  ...    10 

Here  Uia  roH«l  forke }  th*  neareet  it  to  follow  up  lh« 
croek  two  milet,  croee  and  then  go  over  the  ridge  fi»e 
atilee  to  foot  of  Big  Hill,  where  the  roede  again  unite  •     7 

The  other  road  croeeea  the  ri»er,  foUowa  up  Uie  bottom 
about  ten  milee,  re-eroreee  and  ia  then  abottt  eeyen  milea 

tojunotion.                              ....  « 

From  foot  of  Big  Hill,  to  top  of  ndge  u  about 8 

••    thence  to  Big  Timber  on  Bear  river * 

Here  ia  a  company  of  American  tradera  and  trapper* 

From  Big  Timber  to  Soda  Springe „'  *  '.'  " 

«•    Snrinff  to  Soda  Pool  aevea  milea,  to  Spring  Branch 

thrSe »J 

«*    Spring  to  Running  Branch • 

"    thenoe  to  fool  of  hill ' 

••    foot  of  hUl  over  dividio*  ridge  and  down  to  eamp  •  18 

M    thence  toLewia'e  river  Dottora  atSprioge 18 

and  to  Fort  Hall '  *  *  *  : 5 

«•    Fort  Hall  to  the  oroaaing  of  Portnelh 8 

••    Portneth  to  American  faUa |' 

"    American  falU  to  Uvey  creek .  •  •  •  •  ;  •  •  •  •  •  •    !» 

•«    thenoe  to  Casau  crwd^  (here  the  Cabfomia  trail 

tame  off) • 

••    Caaaia  to  Big  Marah [» 

•«    Marah  to  River '.,'***.* 

«    Bivor  to  Gooae  creek  four  milea,  aeven  mile*  to  ri> 

ver,  and  twelve  milea  to  Dry  Bianeh,  (water  in 

P«^)    «J 

T«  Roeky  Creek '.  .•  •  • •  *  *  " 

•*  eroeaing  of  Rocky  creek,  flight  milee,  down  to  where 

the  road  leavea  the  Uaff  of  sreek,  aeven 15 

«  Salmon  FaUt  creek «J 

From  thence  to  Salmon  fell* • 

«•    Fall*  to  firat  eroeaing  of  Lewi*  river •• 

M    ere**inf  to  Boi*  river  i*  about.  •  •  ' tO 

Camp*  can  He  had  from  aix  to  Meen  mile* 

Down  Boi*  river  to  Fort  Boia  (good  eampa) 48 

Croa*  Lewi*  river  and  thence  to  Malheur 18 

«    Malheur  to  Birch  creek,  about SO 

M    Biroh  creek  to  river  three  milea,  and  theiir*  &v« 

milea  to  Burnt  rivw »..,....  S 

Up  Burnt  river  about  (good  oamp*) «8 


ira  four  miles,  and 
r  thra*  milM  ...  10 
to  follow  up  the 
rer  the  ridge  five 
oada  again  unite  •  T 
>wa  up  tlie  bollom 
about  aeTen  milea 

about 8 

rer * 

t  and  trappora 

80 

I,  to  Spring  Branch 

*.*.*.'.*.*.'.'.'.!  9 

8 

ddowntoeamp  •  12 

Spriofs 18 

. 6 

tneth 6 

, 18 

, 16 

he  California  trail 

8 

IB 

11 

,  aeven  nilM  to  ri* 
Braneh,  (water  in 

28 

8 

ee,  down  to  where 

lek,  ae»en 15 

SO 

8 

iver  ••••••••  M 

.  .  , to 

nilee 

unpe) 46 

ear 18 

SO 

OB,  and  thenrc  At* 

8 

S6 


TABLR  OF  DIflTANOCS.  101 

miji. 

From  where  the  road  leatea  Burnt  river,  to  the  lone  pine 
atump  in  the  bottom  of  Powder  nver,  (the  laet 

thirteen  milea  no  wator) •" 

To  the  crosaing  of  Powder  river J" 

To  Grand  Round *, 

AcroM  the  aouthem  end  of  Grand  Round ^ 

Up  Big  Hill  and  on  to  Grand  Round  river » 

Over  the  Blue  Mountaina  to  Lee'a  encampment |w 

To  UmatiUo  river ' *° 

Down  UmatiUo  river Zl 

"     Columbia  rivt  r  to  John  Day'a  nvur »» 

From  thence  to  Falla  river ** 

And  thence  to  the  Dallea  of  the  Columbia •    »«» 

From  the  DaUea  to  Oregon  city,  by  way  of  wago..  road 

aouth  of  Mount  Hood  about j'u  ' 

Upon  reaching  the  Columbia,  emigrant*  ahould  have 
peraona  in  advance  to  select  auiuble  pUcee  for  camp 
ground :  aa  the  country  along  the  river  is  extremely  bar- 
ren, and  the  grazing  limited  to  small  patches. 


U 


,■'   n     iirifci 


APPENDIX. 

LETTEB  OF  THE  REV.  H.  H.  SPALDING    TO 
JOEL  PALMER. 

(  Rtfintd  to  on  pag*  IM.) 


NBZ  PBROB  MI88IOI*,  CLBAR  WATER  RIVER. 

Ottgon  TerrUory,  April  7, 1848. 
To  Jon  Palm*  E«q.  of  Inbiana. 

MvD.A.8»:-A«r.wbly  to  you  •:eq««.t  I  »»-;  «h*«> 
fuUy  fiw  rou  my  »iew.  concerning  the  Oregon  territory,  ito 
«U,Drit.'«io.t  de.ir.We  climate,  fertility  of  .ofl.  ruer.  end 
moimtuM,  •«■  Md  tay«.  •»*>  '«•  PW^^^'X  *»  «»•  "^  *•  °'°'* 
tzteniif  e  markeU  opening  upon  the  world.  ^^ 

The  Oregon  territory  ie  uweUy  divided  into  three  great  dlTi- 
•looe.  the  lower,  middle,  end  upper  regioM.  The  upper 
toehidee  the  Rocky  MounUdn..  with  the  he«l  water,  of  moet 
of  the  rif  er.  ranning  wert  end  eat,  north  wd  wuth,  nnd^- 
tend.  we.tto  the  Bhie  wd  Spoktn  range,  of  mountam..  The 
lower  iocUide.  the  beU  of  country  bounded  on  the  weat  by  the 
P«rific  ««i  on  the  eart  by  the  Ne«i«ally.  Ca«»de.  and  C  J.. 
fbrnia  Mountrin..  The  middle  region  lie.  between  the  two. 
•lul  etobrwse.  RrobaWy  far  the  greate.t  extent  of  counuy,  and 
is  in  MNB*  reroecte  the  mort  deeirabl"  for  .etUer..     ' 

The  Bomber  of  rainy  day^  during  the  winter  m.on,  in  the 
lower  eottntry.  U  thought  to  be  .boat  eighty-fiv.  one-hon- 
drwlib.  I  while  the  number  of  rainy  day.  dtmng  the  nm«  Ma- 


MM 


188  APPRNOIX. 

dtedtht.  There  ii  but  little  more  enow  during  the  winter 
•euon  in  the  middle  then  in  the  lower  region  of  the  Columbia 
river,  or  upon  the  plaini.  Of  courie  the  depth  of  enow  upon 
the  raountaini,  dependt  upon  their  height. 

The  lower  country  ii  eubject  !o  innndatlone.  to  a  greater 
or  le..  extent,  from  the  Columbia  river,  which  gathering  into 
atanding  poola,  with  the  great  amount  of  regelable  decay  con- 
«Kluent  upon  low  prairie  countriea,  produce,  to  -o""  «to«» 
unhealthy  fog.  during  the  .ummer  .oa.on.     fhi.,  however.  U 
„e.Uy  moderated  by  the  .ea  breexe.  from  the  Pacific.    The 
middle  region  i.  entirely  free  from  the«.  evil.,  and  ha.  proba- 
bly one  of  the  mo.t  pacific,  healthy,  and  every  way  moat 
deeirable  climale.  in  the  world.   Thi.,  with  it.  «»•«"*•?"»■ 
rie.,  covered  with  a  .uperior  quality  of  gra..  tuft,  or  bunch 
gn-.,  which  -prlnga  frch  twice  a  year,  and   -P^^^J  "f 
.treaked  everywhere  with  apring.  and  .tream.  of  *•  P'"*-*' 
.wtlt  waSTrender.  it  admin^ly  ^.pud  *»  *«  ^«^J 
ayatam.    The  lower  coimtxy  wW  ever  have  greaUy  *••«»««»• 
tie  in  it.  proximity  to  market,  it.  extewive  .ea  c<»rt.  and 
bom  the  fact  that  it  contain,  one  of  the  largeet  and  be.t  bar- 
bor.  in  the  world,  viz.  Pugef.  wwnd.  running  far  mland,  the 
mouth  of  which  i.  protected  by  Vancouver*.  Ulwid.  eaay  of 
acces.  at  all  aeason.  and  under  all  wind.. 

But  to  go  into  detail.     Myaelf  and  wife  were  appointed 
mi..ionarie.  by  the  American  Board  of  Commiaeioner.  for  Fo^ 
.iga  Mi..ion..  and  dctined  to  thi.  field,  and  with  oar  worthy 
JSociate..  Dr.  Whitman,  and  lady,  arrived  m  thu  country  sa 
the  faU  of  1838.     The  Doctor  .ettled  among  the  C.y«e.. 
Dear  fort  Wallawalla.  and  my-elf  at  thi.  place,  where  we  have 
ever  aince  continued  to  dw.ll.    Our  duUe.  have  caBed  «.  to 
travel  more  or  ie«  every  year  to  vi.it  the  *•««»»*"  J^^ 
tribe.,  a.  al«,  to  pack  our  r.ppV«o.  I  have  7^^*  ^^^  J 
die  region  in  wventeen  ^.n^-^ront  route.,  of  f~» J«  to  fOO 
mile.     Over  m«i7  of  the  mte.  I  have  pamd  P^b-Wyi" 
tfvery  toonth  in  th«  y^^'^  hav.  ««*«^^*;P2T»hu  ^ 


htromx. 


nev 


during  the  winter 
>n  of  the  Columbia 
gpth  of  ■now  upon 

itioni,  to  ft  gretter 
lich  gathering  into 
igetable  decay  eon- 
;ei  to  lome  oxtont 
Thia,  however,  la 
the  Pacific.    The 
ila,  and  haa  proba- 
1  every  way  moat 
\i  ita  extenaive  prai- 
;raaa  tuft,  or  bunch 
r,  and   apotted  and 
nma  of  the  pureaW 
pted  to  the  herding 
re  greatly  the  adTan* 
laive  aeft  eoaat,  and 
ugeat  and  beathar* 
nning  far  inland,  the 
rer'a  ialand,  eaay  of 

irife  were  appointed 
mmiaaionera  for  For- 
md  with  oar  worthy 
)d  in  thia  ooantry  in 
among  the  Cayviea, 
ilace,  where  we  hare 
ea  hftTe  called  «a  to 
le  distant  banda  and 
re  traveraed  this  inid> 
,  of  from  eo  to  800 
B  pasaed  probably  in 
10  ptograae  of  regft*- 
elbetiorthtooliiaiw 


««on  the  animal  conalhution.  the  rapidity  w.th  walch  ex- 
hJ^aUd  poor  animal,  regain  thair  fieah  and  actinty.  whan 
LrneJ  up^^  th.  pUin. ;  ft«d  ha.,  kept  Uble.  under  aom.  of 
Zrheada.  u  Jmo  a  meteorological  table  for  .emal  yoara. 
Xi^tu"  obaerve  that  my  .lew.  of  the  couaUy  have  been 
materially  changed  br  a  mo.  ^  accurate  acquamtanc.  w.lh  lU 
^le  natuJe.  1  oZ  thought  the  .Uey.  only  "-P*^""^  »>;'>; 
Itatlon;  conaidering  the  plain,  too  dry  for  culuvat.on.    But  I 
am  noi  prepared  to  a.y  thi.  «  not  the  caae.    The  plama  .uf- 
f«  far  leaa  from  drought  than  the  valley.,  on  account  of  th. 
X"orof  heat  fro^  the  aurrounding  hill.     Th.  country, 
however,  i.  nowhere  peculiarly  .ubject  to  drought,  aa  v^m 
once  thought.  My  place  ia  one  of  the  deepe.t  valley.,  and  con- 
::qlnay  *•  r,;rexpo.ed  to  th.  reflecUon  from  *«  b|gh 
bluff,  around,  which  ri-e  from  two  to  three  t^ou-nd  fe.t .  b« 
my  farm,  though  prepared  for  irrigation,  haa  remained  without 

:Chel..tfoury-..  I  ««<»  ^»'«  «r '^rXnTel 
moUt  by  cultivation.  Three  yeara  ago  I  raui«i  .«  hundr^ 
Lhel.  of  .helled  corn  from  .ix  aerw.  and  good  crop,  of 
wheat  on  the  .am.  pi«,e  the  two  following  yea«,  without  .m- 
«Uon.  Eight  year,  ago  I  rai.«l  1600  b«.h.la  of  poUto..  from 
fne  L  Td  ;  halff  me-uring  aom.  of  the  bag.  m  which 
they  were  bronght  to  the  cellar.,  and  .o  judging  of  the  whole 
amount  I  gave  every  eleventh  bag  for  digging  •»*  ^^JS 
«„d  kept  a  atrict  account  of  what  every  peraon  brought,  ao  that 
I  wu  abl.  to  make  a  pretty  accurate  estimate  of  the  wholo 

amount    My  potatoea  and  com  are  alway.  planted  in  drill.. 
Every  kind  of  grain  or  vegetable  which  I  have  tn«l  or  awn 

t^  in  thi.  npp.r  country,  grow.  w.U.   .W*-"*  V>'\ i;) 

1h.  fdl,  and  h.rv..ted  in  Jun.  at  thia  place ;  at  Dr.  WhU. 

man'a  in  July,  being  a  more  open  country.    Com  i.  pl.nt«» 

ia  April  and  ripwn  in  July ;  p«.  th.  »m.. 

EXTENT  OP  COUNTBY. 
Tl«  «mtli«n  botindtfy  of  Ornon  tmitory  to  th.  «d  d^ 
im  of  north  laUtad..    Th.  northern  boondary  m  not  y«l  i^^ 


\m 


APPPBNMX 


ti.di»  bolh  EngUnd  tnd  the  United  SUUi  clwra  north  of  th« 
Co.«mb«Ti,er  to  latitude  49'.     But  thi.  v«t  fertd.  region, 
well  tinib«red  upon  the  mouoUin.  and  river  eourcei.  and  well 
watered,  beside,  having  the  fine  harbor  above  named,  Paget, 
•ound.  mu.t  ever  remain  the  moat  important  P«'^««  »   ^J'* 
gon.  eepecially  on  account  of  thi.  harbor,  which  »'"»  «»««^^ 
Ltrol  theae  aeM.  and  conaequenlly  the  country.    Should  the 
Briiiah  flag  finally  cxclu.ively  wave  over  iU  placid  watery  i^ 
wUl  be  10  the  reat  of  Oregon  m  Quebec  i.  to  Canada,  or  G;b. 
r Jlar  to  tl.e  Mediterranean.     Vancouver'.  laland  i.  doubUeM 
another  rea.on  why  Great  Britain  wUhe.  to  make  the  Colum- 
bia  river  h.r  northern  boundary.    The  line  of  <»   P""'  » 
lilUe  north  of  the  wuthem  half  of  the  ialand.     The  whole 
i,land  contain.  .  territory  conaiderably  larger  than  EngUnd  and 
Scotland,  produ   m  every  kind  of  grain  and  vegeUbl.  well,  and 
ha.  a  climate  very  .imilar  to  our  Middle  and  Southern  .tat... 
Whatever  nation  pn.«...e.  thi.  i.land.  or  the  aoulh  porUon  of 
m  wiUi  if  neighboring  harbor.  Puget'.  wund,  poMe.«»  nearly 
til  of  a  national  conaideration  which  peruin.  to  Oregon,  ana 
will  co„Mq«e«.ly  control  it.     D-H  if  thi.  i^Und.  or  th»  po^ 
tion  of  it.  with  thi.  harbor.  «U1  .heir  ever  controhng  nHuence 
to  the  undivided  intereat.  of  Oregon,  thi.  young,  colony,  bu 
yeeterday  begun,  and  who.,  country  «>d  .ri.«anc.  were  but 
yeaterday  diaputed.  will  at  no  diaunt  day.  under  th.-ofU.mng. 
Uf8./.rM4  influence  of  civilixalion  and  our  holy  religion,  take 
it.  pi.ce  among  the  wealthiest,  happi-t,  and  be.t  naUon.  of 

'*' Vh"tuntry  of  Oregon,  .hoold  it  extend  to  49«  north  lati- 
tude,,  i.  probably  capable  of  au«taining  a.  r"t  •  W^^J^ 
..  two-third.  of  the  territory  of  the  Slate,,  «.d  with  f«r  le» 

bard  labor. ________-l-— -1 

". Bine. tbUteU-rwwi written. the forty^lnth  pualM  "^ ~»*';f*J* 

h„  b«.-ubiuh«i  tyt^ty  -th.  bo«nd«y  ^^^2^*;;:^ 

„«,U  of  0«at  Britain  «.d  the  Unit.1 8ut..~^oep»thatpc«UeorfVto. 
^.  yaiid«««h  rf49»,wbkh  cootton..and.t  the  j«irfW»rf«^ 


.^ 


Uit  oUira  north  of  ih« 
ia  vut  fertile  region, 
ver  eourcee.  tnd  well 
ibove  nametl,  Puget'e 
rtant  portion  of  Ore- 
,  which  will  nkturallx 
country.    Should  the 
er  iU  pUcid  watera,  it 
ie  to  Canada,  or  Gfb- 
■'a  laland  ia  doubllree 
■  to  make  the  Colum- 
line  of  49°  paaaea  a 
island.     The  whole 
trger  than  England  and 
ind  vegetable  well,  and 
e  and  Southern  atatea. 
r  the  aoulh  portion  of 
louud,  poaaeaaea  nearly 
erUina  to  Oregon,  and 
^ia  i»Und,  or  thia  por- 
rer  controling  influence 
thia  young,  colony,  but 
nd  esietence  were  but 
ay,  under  the  Mftening, 
our  holy  religion,  take 
It,  and  beat  nationa  of 

xtend  to  40°  north  iaU- 
I  aa  great  a  population 
luteal  and  with  far  leaa 

ithpanOMof  BotitblitaiU 
ry  Una  Iwtwan  lb*  gotam- 
-«ioapt  that  poitioo  of  Van. 
imWrttaajiuiidietioBarUna 


kffWWL  ipi 

CLIMATE. 

Thia  ia  decidedly  the  inviiinn  characterietir  of  tlie  country, 
and  ia  certainly  a  great  inducement  for  all  pemone  of  delicate 
health.     I  speak  of  tlie  middle  region.    Free  from  marahea  or 
standing  water  and  vegetable  decay,  the  air  ia  remarkably  pur« 
and  aerena ;  aummera  rather  warm,  eapecially  in  the  vulleya ; 
the  mercury  rangea,  foe  aome  time  during  the  hot  aeaaon,  ffom 
100  to  100  degreea  above  aero.     NighU  cool,  but  no  fog  or 
dew,  except  in  a  few  placea.     Twice  aince  1  have  been  in  iha 
counuy  froat  has  injured  vines,  leaves,  Ac,  first  of  May,  but 
never  in  the  fall  till  late  ;  often  my  melon  vinea,  iic,  are  green 
till  the  first  of  December.    Four  timee  since  1  have  been  her* 
the  mercury  has  fallen  below  aero  5  once  lo  26  degrees.     But 
usually  it  rangea  above  20  in  the  morning,  and  above  60 
through  the  day.    During  aix  of  the  ton  winters  I  have  paaaed 
in  the  country,  tlic  rivers  have  not  been  froaen.      The  Co- 
lumbia river  haa  been  froaen  nearly  to  ito  mouth,  twice  ainca 
I  have  been  in  the  country.    The  anow  aomelimea  falla  a  fool 
deep— I  ahould  judge  about  once  in  five  yeara.   About  half  of 
my  wintera  here  there  haa  been  no  anow  in  the  valleya,  and 
hut  Hide  on  the  plaina,  except  to  whiten  the  earth  for  a  abort 
tima.    It  diaappeara  in  a  few  houra,  especially  on  tlie  aouth 
face  of  the  blufle  and  hilla.    Laat  year  1  made  a  collection  of 
flowera  and  plant«„  which  I  purpoaa  to  aend  to  Waahlngton. 
I  gathered  two  flowera  in  January,  on  the  22d  and  29lh,«  and 
during  the  month  of  February  aome  40  ahowed  iheroaelvea, 
and  bj  the  firet  of  March  the  graaa  on  the  aoulh  facea  of  lh« 
blufla  waa  14  inchea  high.    Thia  year  the  aeaaon  waa  about 
ihrM  weeka  later,  judging  by  Uie  appearance  of  flowera.     I 
know  of  no  diaeaae  that  can  be  aaid  to  bo  peculiar  to  the  coun- 
try.    The  country  ia  peculiarly  free  from  audden  ehangea  of 
weather,  or  violent  atorma.    Peraona  who  have  wintered  here 
from  the  aouth,  teU  me  the  wintera  are  aa  mild  aa  the  wintere 

ssen  in  Om  Isil  wintMT,  and  winter  bsfora,  frara  tb* 

M.  W. 


•  Ftowars  hste  been 
SOth  tt  Jannaiy. 
15 


AtrtMaoL 

in  ihe  norlh«rn  parU  o«  Noilh  uw\  iJouih  Carolina,  and  witl. 
leaa  audtlen  ctiangea. 

ADVANTACJEa  FOR  THE  HERDING  SYflTEM. 
The  country  ii.  om  extenaivr  prairie,  except  the  mounlaina. 
whirh  ar«  covered  with  leveral  apeciea  of  pine,  cedar,  ami  fir. 
The  prairi^i  «e  n.lling.  and  wUh  the  t^eepilon  nf  »  narnm 
belt  of  eand  and  .edge  upon  the  Columbia,  and  porliona  of  the 
Snake  river,  are  ev.ry where  covered  with  the  bur.cl»  gra.. 
which,  from  obaervalion,  I  judge  to  be  n  richer,  heartier  foci 
for  animal,  than  com.  oaU.  and  the  beat  paature.  of  U.e  Bute.. 
It  i.  a  fine,  aoUd  atalk.  growing  ',wo  feet  high,  with  fine  leave., 
hold,  iu  freahnea.  through  the  wi-v-r;  I  mean  the  old  .talk, 
which  mingled  with  the  young  growth,  that  uiually  .pnng. 
freeh  in  the  fall,  form,  a  food  for  animal,  through  the  winter, 
preferable  to  the  beat  hay.    IIor.e.  and  oien  perform  labor  at 
•11  aeaMn.  upon  thi.  gra..  .imply,  without  the  aid  of  grain » 
which  I  now  think  di.po«).  the  animal  ry.tem  to  vanou.  dl.- 

When  I  pack,  I  u.ually  travel  from  thitsj-^re  to  forty  mile. 
•  day,  each  hor.e  carrying  two  hundred  ,*ound»-re.t  an  hour 
«t  noon,  without  taking  down  the  pack.  ;  camp  while  the  .un 
ia  yet  two  hour,  high  ;  hobble  the  horw.  end  drive  them  up 
in  the  rooming  at  .unriM.    I  find  that  hor.>«  xriU  endure  .uoh 
labor  for  twenty-fif  e  or  thirty  day.,  reeling  oi"  coorw  on  the 
Sabbath,  upon  thi.  gra..,  without  injuring  tacm.    Their  mnd 
l»  evidendy  better  than  that  of  home,  fed  on  gr*ui  and  hay. 
I  bai£  rode  from  Dr.  Whitman*,  .tatlon  to  thi..  128  miles.  In 
nineteen  hour^  .tarUng  at  9  o'clock  In  the  night,  and  driving. 
.t)are  horw  for  change ;  but.  thi.  wa.  no  advantage,  for  I  find 
it  i.  more  fatiguing  U  ^  horw  to  be  drove  than  to  be  rode. 
Yon  doubtless  recollect  the  man  who  overtook  u.  on  the  liead 
of  Alcpausawi,  Thursday  morning.    He  had  left  the  Dalies  oi 
Long  Narrow,  on  the  Columbia  on  Tuesday  morning,  alept  a 
•hort  ume  Tuewlay  night  below  the  UmatiUo,  pawed  by  Dr. 
Whitman',  station,  and  .lept  W«dne.day  night  on  the  Tuka^ 


L. 


iMM 


Afvwmnt. 


ni 


iilh  Carolina,  and  with 

IDING  SYflTEM. 

except  Ihe  mouiiuini, 
of  pine,  c«dar,  anil  flr. 
^^eeptlon  !>f  •  narrow 
bia,  and  portiona  of  the 
with  th«  bunch  graaa, 
a  richer,  heariier  fo(4 
t  pMturea  of  tlie  Btatea. 
(t  high,  with  fine  leavea, 
;  I  mean  the  old  atalk, 
Ih,  that  uaually  epringa 
ala  through  the  winter, 
d  oien  perform  labor  at 
ithout  the  aid  of  grain  i 
il  .-^yitem  to  varioue  dia- 

thir'.y-fl»e  to  forty  milea 
id  fiounda— reat  an  hour 
kb  ;  camp  while  the  aun 
raea  end  drive  them  up 
;  hora>i8  xvill  endure  auch 
-eating  ol'  courae  on  the 
ring  tacm.     Their  wind 
>a  fed  on  gr«i<i  and  hay. 
on  to  thia,  12B  miles,  in 
n  the  night,  and  driving  a 
I  no  advantage.  Tor  I  ftnd 
e  drove  than  to  be  rode. 
1  overtook  u«  on  the  head 
He  had  leA  the  Dalles  oi 
Pucaday  morning,  alept  a 
Umatillo,  paMed  by  Dr. 
aday  night  on  the  Tiik» 


nan,  adbtanoe  from  the  Pallaa  of  two  hun.lred  and  forty  miles  \ 
and  the  day  Iw  paaaeU  ua  he  traveled  fifly-Jive  milea  more. 
Up  rode  one  horae  and  drove  anotlier  for  change.     You  will 
probably  even  recollect  ihoae  horawi,  a«  they  left  "•  upon  the 
round  f  nllop.     A  roan  went  from  thia  place,  aurling  late,  to 
WJUwalla.  and  returned  on  the  third  day,  aun  two  houre 
high,  making  the  journey  in  about  two  daya  and  a  half.    The 
whole  diatance  traveled  waa  two  hundred  and  fifty  milea,  and 
but  one  horae  waa  ueed.     None  of  iheae  horaea  were  injured. 
Cattle,  ahaep,  horaea.  and  hoga  feed  out  tlirongh  the  winter, 
and  oontinue  fat.     We  very  often  kill  our  beef  in  March,  and 
alwaya  have  tlie  very  beet  of  meat.     Often  an  ox  from  tiie 
plaina,  killed  in  March,  yieUU  over  one  hundred  and   fifty 
pounda  of  tallow.    You  have  aeen  two  apecimena,  one  killed  at 
Dr.  Whitman's,  and  one  at  tliia  place.  Sheep  need  the  care  of 
ft  ahephcrd  through  the  winter,  to  protect  the  lambe  from  tite 
prairie  woWee.   A  band  of  maree  ahould  have  a  good  atud  that 
will  herd  them  and  protect  the  colu  from  the  Urge  wolvea. 
Some  thirty  diHereni  k  iiula  of  roota  grow  abundantly  upon  the 
plains  and  Muffs,  which,  with  the  graaa,  furnish  th^  beat  of 
food  for  hogs,  and  Uiey  are  alwaya  good  pork.     Vhe  aouth 
face  of  the  extemive  bluffa  and  hills  arc     Iwaya  free  from 
anow,  and,  cut  up  into  ten  thonaand  little    avines,  form  the 
moat  desirable  reUeai  imagbable  tor  sheep  .i  ring  Uie  winter. 
Here  they  have  the  beet  of  freah  graas,  and  the  young  lambs, 
coming  regularly  twice  a  year,  are  protected  from  the  winds 
ftx  \  wiliTened  by  the  warm  sun.     We  have  a  Hook  of  aheep 
belonging  to  the  MUsion,  receivetl  from  the  islands  eight  years 
•fo ;  there  are  now  about  one  hundred  and  fifiy.     Not  one 
has  yet  died  from  diseaae,  a  thing  of  such  frequent  occurrence 
in  the  Slates.    U  must  certainly  become  a  great  wool  growing 

country. 

1  cannot  but  contrast  the  time,  labor,  and  expense  requisite 
tn  look  after  herds  in  this  country,  with  that  required  in  the 
States,  especially  in  the  Northern  and  Middle  States,  where 
twoHhirds  of  every  man's  time,  labor,  and  money  is  expended 


m 


Arrwiwx 


on  hii  .nlinnl..  in  pwparinf  ind  fencing  p.ilure  r^nit  tiHl 
matdow*.  bulMinK  barn..  .Ltd..  itoWti.  .nd  |r«n.rio.  euUin| 
,nd  ...curing  hay  .nd  gflns.  .ml  f«.ling  .nd  lo<.king  to  .m- 

,n.l.  throu^f.  '^in'-r-  '"  »^"  «"'"""y  •»  '^''  "  •"P«"^"''«;  ^y 
N.tura'.  own  bouniiful  hand.  In  ihi.  country  •  .ingU  .htpherd 
with  hi.  hor.e  .nd  d..g.  en  prolecl  .m»  look  .fter  fl*.  «hou..nd 
•hoep.«  A  in.ii  Willi  hhi  l.or.e  and  perh.ii*  •  dog  can  etady 
•ttend  to  two  tho...and  hwd  of  callla  nnd  hor....  without 
■pending  .  dollar  for  b.rn..  grain,  or  h.y.  Con.ider  the  traat 
ainounl  i4  labor  and  f  jtp*n.a  .uch  a  number  of  animal,  would 
lequire  In  <hi.  Stale.:  Were  I  to  aeleci  for  my  frirnda  ■  loca- 
tion for  i^hwlAy  happy  Ufa.  and  .peody  wealOi,  U  would  be 

till,  country.  ,    . ,  w 

Timber  i«  the  great  deaideratum.    But  ihe  country  of  which 
1  am  pariicularly  .peaking,  extending  ewy  way  perhape  four 
hundred  milee.  la  everywhere  aurrounded  by  low  mountama, 
which  are  ihtrkly  timbered,  b^sidee  two  or  three  ammll  rldgea 
puling  ihroMgh  it ;  aUo  the  river.  Columbia.  Snake,  8pokan, 
Paluae.  Clear  Walor.Vankiman.Okanakan.  Salmon.  Wtiloa,Tu. 
kanan.  Wtllawalla.  Umatillo,  John  Day'a  nnd  river  De  Shulea  j 
and  down  moat  of  theae  timber  or  lumber  can  be  rafled  in  any 
quantltica.    80  that  but  a  very  amall  portion  of  the  country 
will  be  over  ten  or  fifteen  milaa  from  timber ;  moat  of  it  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  timber.    The  numeroui  •mall  atreama 
which  occur  every  five  or  n\x  milea,  affurdlng  moat  dealraWe 
locationa  for  aettlementa,  contain  aome  cotton  wo«)d,  tlder  and 
thorn.    But  timber  ia  eoon  grown  from  aprouta.    The  atreama 
everywhere  run  over  a  atony  bottom,  while  the  aoll  ia  eutirely 
IVee  from  atone.    Slreama  are  rapid,  affording  the  boat  of  mill 
privileges. 

MARKET.  SEAS  AND  BAYS. 
The  weatern  .horee  of  Oregon  nte  waehed  by  the  plaeid 

TXTpMwnl  it  will  iwiulr.  on.  man  to  a  ihoMand  in  Iba  wfailK  to  pun 
iMlbomvolvwk    B« euycknii*.  I.  a  ««•  poiMn  wUh  which  to  dMttoy 

ftf«  W. 


/fPHWUHt. 


m 


Willi  n»  iToandi  tnd 
id  gmniriM.  culling 
and  Uxiking  to  ani< 
hit  it  aupercedad  by 
\ij  •  ■ingla  ihtphanl 
ik  after  flva  ihouiand 
«p«  m  dng  ran  tun\y 
Slid  horaat,  without 
Coniider  the  Toat 
bet  of  animala  would 
ur  my  frienda  ■  loca- 
wealth,  it  would  be 

the  country  of  whloh 
ry  way  perhapa  four 
1  by  low  mountaina, 
or  (hrea  amall  ridgea 
nbia,  Snake,  Spokan, 
1,  Salmon,  Wailua,Tu- 
nnd  river  De  Shutea  { 
r  can  ba  raflad  in  any 
ortion  of  the  country 
ber ;  moat  of  it  in  th« 
naroui  amall  atreama 
irding  moat  deairabia 
Dtton  wood,  alder  and 
iprouta.    Tha  atreama 
lila  tha  aoil  ia  eutiraly 
mliqg  tha  boat  of  aiiil 

D  BAYS. 

waahad  by  tha  placid 

MMid  in  tha  wiotar  to  |Hx» 
uon  with  wkich  to  dcMrajr 
M.  W. 


watara  of  the  P»ei«e,  which  bring  the  SflO.OOO.WW  of  China, 
tha  many  milliona  of  thr  «aat  lnJi«a  and  of  Auatnlaaia,  and 
lay  them  at  our  Aoon  with  opening  hanila  to  recei»a  owr  pro- 
duce! which,  with  tha  numeroua  whale  aliipt   that  lilwally 
whitan  tha  Northern  Parlflc,  calling  not  only  for  proriaiona. 
but  harbora  to  winter  in.  moat  aver  afford  one  of  iha  moat 
axtenaive  markeoi  in  the  world  for  all  kinda  of  product,  and 
ona  concerning  wliioh  there  need  ba  but  little  fwr  that  it  will 
ever  ba  o»ertlorked.     K  market  compared  with  which,  that 
offered  by  weaiern  Europe  to  (he  eaatcrn  aaction  of  the  United 
Slalaa,  will  become  aa  a  drop  to  tha  bucket     Tha  United 
Suiaa*  Commercial  Agent  at  Oahu.  Sandwich  falnnda.  ia  dwi- 
roue  to  make  a  contract  for  a  ceruin  amount  of  pro»iaiona  lo 
be  iupplied  to  American  ahipping  awry  year  at  Oregon  oltyj 
but  aa  yat  tha  aoppliea  of  the  country  over  and  abo»a  the 
home  conmimption,  are  not  aofllclent  to  warrant  a  dependence 
of  our  whale  ahipping  upon  the  country.    In  fact  for  many 
year*,  while  tha  United  Statea  continue  \n  pour  their  inhabl- 
unia  by  tana  of  thouaanda,  ercry  year,  into  thia  young  repub- 
lic, tha  home  market  muat  continue  in  competiilon  with  tha 
foreign.    But  tha  day  ia  not  diatant  whan  thia  country,  aalUad 
oy  an  Indoatriooe,  virtuoua,  Sahbath-loWng  people,  governed 
by  wholeaoma  lawa,  bleaaed  with  achoola,  and  the  inatituUona 
of  oor  holy  religion,  will  hold  otil  abundant  encouragamenta 
for  the  numerooe  whale  and  merchant  ahlpa  of  tha  Pacific  to 
leave  their  heavy  lading  of  three  yeara'  aupply  of  provlaiona 
at  home,  and  depend  upon  the  market  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  their  fiahinf  grounda.    Othera  following  In  their  track, 
learning  of  thia  new  world,  and  finding  out  our  ample  harbora. 
aoon  thia  Illlla  obacura  point  upon  the  map  of  the  world  will 
become  a  aeeond  North  American  Repoblio — her  eommeree 
whitening  every  aea,  and  her  crowded  porta  fiinned  by  the 
flaga  of  ev«ry  nation.    From  thia  upper  country,  a  diatanoa  of 
d)re«  hondrwl  or  four  hundred  milea,  drovea  of  cattle  and  ahoap 
Ota  U  drlvto  to  the  lower  portiona  of  the  Colnnbia  river. 


174 


APFirnMX. 


with  far  less  expense  wid  labor  than  they  are  driven  the  aaiiie 
distances  in  the  Slates,  always  being  in  the  midst  of  grass 
upon  which  they  may  feed  every  night  without  charge. 

The  principal  harbors  are  Puget's  Sound,  mouths  of  Colum- 
bia, Fraaier's,  Sh-'hales,  Umpqua,  Rose  and  Clamet  rivers. 
DoubUess  others  will  be  discovered,  as  the  country  becomes 
more  known.    A  dangerous  bar  extends  nearly  across  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia,  leaving  but  a  narrow  obscure  channel, 
difficult  of  access  or  egress,  except  with  favorable  winds. 
Vessels  sometimes  find  it  impoesible  to  enter  the  river  by 
reason  of  contrary  winds ;  and  sometimes  are  detained  in  th« 
river  two  or  three  months,  there  not  being  sea  room  enough 
f  go  out  against  a  head  wind,    Tha   difficulty  could  be 
greatly  obviated,  and  perhaps  removed,  by  a  pilot  boat     Con- 
cerning the  olhar  rivers  I  have  no  cerUin  knowledge,  but  have 
been  informed  that  some  of  them  are  navigable  for  v*  sseU 
from  forty  to  sixty  miles,  and  aflbrd  convenient  Imrbors. 
Puget's  Sound,  as  before  observed,  is  one  of  the  safest  and 
best  harbors  in  the  world,  it  can  be  entered  or  left  uader  any 
winds  and  at  any  season  of  the  year.    The  scenery  around  is 
said  to  be  most  enchanting.    Two  lakes  near  sending  off"  » 
smaU  strfam  of  pure  water.    A  considerable  river  runs  into  the 
sound,  making  a  faU  of  somu  twenty-five  feet  just  as  it  plunges 
into  the  sea,  affording  the  opportunity  of  building  miUs  upon 

the  wharfs. 

But  very  Utde  has  been  known  by  Americans  concerning 
the  extensive  country  north  of  the  Columbia,  till  last  winter. 
I  have  several  times  been  told  by  British  subjf/cte  that  the 
countries  bordering  onFraxier's  river  and  Pnge's  Soun«»  were 
too  sterile  for  cultivation,  and  but  poor  crops  coc^  Us  raised 
on  the  Cowlitz.  Whereas,  the  exploring  party  who  left  Ore- 
gon city,  last  winter,  report  that  thej  found  a  very  extenstv* 
country  north  of  the  Columbia  river,  of  sppwenUy  good  soil, 
well  timbered  with  pine  and  oak,  and  well  watered  with  th* 
foUowing  rivers  and  their  tribotaries,  vi*;  The  OoirUl^t 
emptying  into  the  Columbia  river  flpdm  the  north ;  the  Shahdea, 


mmm 


ra  driven  the  nni« 
ihe  midei  of  grue 
lout  charge, 
months  of  Colum- 
md  Glamet  rivem. 
B  country  becomei 
nearly  across  the 
iw  obscure  channel, 
I  favorable  winds, 
enter  the  river  by 
are  detained  in  the 
sea  room  enough 
difficulty  could  be 
a  pilot  boat    Con- 
;ncwledge,  but  have 
r/igable  for  vessels 
onvenient  harbors. 
i  of  the  safest  and 
>d  or  left  u  jder  any 
le  scenery  aroand  is 
I  near  sending  otf» 
le  river  runs  mto  the 
let  just  as  it  plunges 
buUding  milU  upon 

nerieans  concerning 
bia.  till  last  winter, 
h  subjr/cl0  that  the 
Pnge's Soun*?  were 
ops  epc^'^  '«««  raised 
party  who  left  Ore- 
ind  a  very  extensive 
ipparendy  gdod  soH^ . 
ell  watered  witli  <%i 
«;     Th«  OoirUlf » 
north ;  the  ShahalM, 


Avnsnax. 


175 


Tonning  into  a  small  bay  north  of  the  Columbia  river ;  the  Nes- 
qualla,  rising  near  the  source  of  the  CowliU,  and  running  north 
Into  Puget's  Sound ;  Frazier's  river  north  of  ihis,  and  several 
smaller  ones  not  named.  .    «  j 

On  the  Cowlitz,  Nesqualla  and  Fratier's  nvers,  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company  have  large  establishments,  and  are  producin| 
vast  quantities  of  wool,  beef,  pork,  and  all  kinds  of  grain,  for 
British  whale  ships  which  frequent  the  harbors.  Besides  these 
establishments,  they  have  extensive  firms  and  herds  at  Van- 
couver, in  the  Willamette  valley  and  Colvile,  and  tradmg  post. 
on  Vancouver  island,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  nver, 
Umpqua,  Vamsouver,  Wallawalla,  Okanakan  and  Colvile,  Boise 
uid  fort  Hall,  with  very  many  at  the  north.  Some  of  these 
are  rtrongly  fortified,  and  are  being  well  suppUed  with  carnon 
and  other  munition,  of  war,  by  almost  every  ship  that  arrives. 
So  I  have  been  informed  by  persons  from  these  ships. 

With  the  extensive  valley  watered  by  the  Willamette  and 
its  numerous  tributaries,  you  are  better  acquainted  than  myself, 
as  1  have  never  visited  that  coantry.  I  cannot,  however,  deny 
myself  the  pleasure  of  expressing  my  opinion  of  the  country, 
formed  from  '^formaUon  derived  yearly  from  scores  of  persons 
who  have  dwelt  long  in,  or  tratekd  more  or  less  throngh  its 
extensive  territory,  at  all  seasomr  of  the  year.  ^    „    ; . 

On  the  wert  the  great  valley  is  separated  from  the  Pocifie 
by  alow  range  of  well  timb«red  moa..tahis,  that  give  rise  to 
nmneroas  strewne  and  small  rivers,  some  of  which  are  Utely 
found  enfllrient  to  admit  vesseb.  On  the  east  it  is  bounded 
by  the  Cascade  or  President's  range,  everywhere  abounding 
with  white  pine  and  cedar.  The  Willamette  river  rises  in  lat- 
itttde  4»S  and  runa  north  atid  empUes  itself  into  the  Columbia 
river  8»  miles  above  its  mouth.  The  falls  of  the  WiUamelta 
ai«  rixmt  thirty  miles  above  its  rabutb,  and  must  ever  add  ft 
vest  interest  to  the  country.  TJi«  power  for  nfillsmnd  ina^ 
ohihery  tHatmiy  be:*iootBd«i«»ch  iide  of  thariveMfad  on 
1hr«Hndmlhe-middletjHbe«to;«  tdequato  fw^  any 

conceivable  daln«M^   ~ 


T 


.  Oregon  city,  eitutted  st  lh«  fclU  on  the  eaat  tide  of  th*  rirwr, 
oontaino  over  five  hundred  iOulB,  about  eighty  houMS,  vi«. : 
two  churched,  two  blaolwmith  ihcpn,  one  cooper  Bhop,  two 
cabinet  shope,  four  tailor  ahopa,  one  hatter'a  shop,  one  tannery, 
three  ahoe  ahopa,  two  ailver  amiih*,  four  itorea,  two  Uvema, 
two  flouring  and  two  saw  mills,  and  a  lathe  machine.  DirecUy 
opposite,  on  the  weat  side,  are  two  towns  laid  out,  and  build- 
ings are  going  up.    The  face  of  the  country  in  t}ie  WiUametta 
valley  is  rolling,  rery  equally  divided  into  prairie  and  timbered 
countries,  with  frequent  oak  Openings.    Wheat  produces  well  5 
com,  potatoes,  &e.  produce  well  in  some  places,  and  probably 
would  everywhere  do  well  with  good  cultivation  1  soil  every- 
where considered  of  a  superior  quality.    Leas  ttmr  during 
tho  winter  season  than  in  the  middle  district,  but  much  mora 
rain,  with  fogs,  on  the  low  lands  during  the  summer,  which 
render  the  *-  .  'ry  less  healthy  than  this  middle  region ;  ftut 
still  the  eottwv./  cannot  be  oooiidered  an  unhealthy  country. 
The  face  of  tho  country  is  everywhere  covered  with  bunch 
grass,*  and  animals  feed  out  dirough  the  winter,  as  in  tho  mid- 
dle repon. 

The  rivers  Umpqua,  Rose  and  Clamet,  which  empty  into 
the  Paoific  south  of  the  Cdumbis,  are  said  to  water  eztensivo 
fertile  countries ;  but  as  y3t  very  little  is  known  of  thes«  ro. 
gions.  Ships  oome  up  Hm  Willametto  river  within  a  few 
miles  of  Oregon  city.  Concerning  the  road  for  wagons  oom> 
meneed  south  of  Mount  Hood,  and  which  is  to  be  coBipleted 
this  summer,  to  be  in  readiness  for  the  next  emigration,  you 
are  better  acquainted  than  myself. 

I  am  happy  to  recommend  to  funi»-s  eniigrants  your  direc- 
tions  and  advice  aa  to  the  best  mode  of  tratelipg;  number  of 
wag .^na  desirable  to  travel  togetlwr;  quantity  of  provisions 
requir«<d  for  each  person ;  best  route;  distance  to  be  traveled 
each  day.  You  will  also  b«  able  to  give  tho  ptkm  for  which 
for  whidi  &•  Hudwjn  Bay  eempany  saile  aoor,  at  Forte  Hril 


•  iJkmm  (nstt^)  it  ■wssabwdiatfa  *m,,^^ 


«#t 


w. 


APPENDIX 


1T7 


salt  aide  of  A»  lireri 
eighty  houm,  vis.  t 
B  cooper  ahop,  two 
's  bhop,  one  tanntry, 

atorea,  two  taverns, 
a  machine.  Directly 
a  laid  out,  and  build* 
try  in  the  Willamette 
prairie  and  timbered 
^heat  producea  well ; 
plaoea,  and  probably 
llivationi  aoii  every- 
Lea*  §navr  during 
itrict,  but  much  more 

the  aummer,  whioh 
I  middle  region;  but 
n  unhealthy  sonntry. 
covered  with  buuoh 
winter,  as  in  the  mid- 

»t,  whieh  empty  into 
lid  to  water  eztenaive 
I  known  of  (heaere* 
I  river  within  a  few 
road  for  wagona  com* 
ieh  is  to  be  coBiplet^ 
next  emigration,  you 


and  Bois,  and  for  which  it  is  brought  from  the  Willamette  to 
ttie  Dalles  and  sold. 

You  are  acquainted  with  the  fact  that  the  Misaion  atation  at 
thia  place,  and  at  Waiilatpu,  have  been  in  the  habit  of  furnish- 
ing provisions  to  immigranU.    We  are  willing  to  do  ao  as  long 
aa  there  are  no  other  sources  of  supplies  in  this  vicinity,  and 
therefore  seeme  a  duty.    But  our  object  in  the  country  ia  to 
civilize  and  Chrialianize  Uw  Indian  tribes  among  whom  we 
are  located.     We  are  stewards  of  the  property  of  others.    We 
receive  no  salariee,  but  aimply  our  living  and  clothing.    We 
therefore  feel  it  to  be  our  duty  to  endeavour  to  make  the  re- 
eeipta  for  provisions  sold,  nett  their  expenses.    For  this  end, 
Mr.  Gilbert,  a  genUeman  from  New  York,  has  taken  charge 
of  the  secular  affairs  of  this  station,  and  will  furnish  provisions 
to  immigmnte  on  the  moat  reasonable  terms.     He  will  give 
you  their  probable  prices,  fjid  the  names  of  such  things  as  will 
be  taken  in  exchange.    You  have  seen  the  quantity  and  qual 
ity  of  flour  and  beef  at  this  place,  aa  also  at  Waiilatpu. 
Yours  very  sincerely, 

H.  H.  SPALDING. 

P.  S.  During  last  season,  eommeneing  a2d  of  January,  I 
collected  and  preserved  over  two  thousand  different  species  ot 
flowers,  plants  and  grasses,*  many  of  which  I  think  are  rare, 
but  I  am  no  botanist. 


•  Probably  what  a»  ealUd  apedaa  her^aia  in  mmy  c««ea  enly  a  varia^ 
erthaaamaapa^as.  ^^ 


emigrants  your  diree* 
trateling;  number  of 
tiantity  of  provisions 
listanoe  to  be  traveled 
a  the  piett  kit  whioh 
[leaoar,  at  Forte  Hall 


<w^ 


w. 


jeitwiiuijiiiriiijiiiMiiiin  i  ■■"T" 


te 


r 


ORGANIC  LAWS  OF  OREGON 

(WITH    AMENDMENTS.) 

The  Legislativi     -mmittee  recommend  that  thefol- 
lowing  Laws  be  adopted. 

PREAMBLE. 

W«,  th«  people  of  Oregon  Territory,  ff  r  purpoeea  of  mutual 
protection,  and  to  aecore  peace  and  prosperity  among  our- 
Beivea,  agree  to  adopt  the  following  laws  and  regulations, 
until  aucih  time  as  the  United  States  of  America  extend  their 
jurisdiction  over  ns. 

Be  it  enacted,  therefore,  by  the  free  citizens  of  Oregon  Ter- 
ritory, that  the  said  tenitory,  for  purposes  of  temporary  gov- 
emmettt,  be  divided  into  not  less  than  three  nor  more  than 
five  districts,  subject  to  ba  extended  to  a  greater  number  when 
an  Increase  of  populatiofa  shall  require. 

For  the  purpose  of  fixiiig  the  principles  of  civil  and  religioni 
Iflierty,  a«  the  basis  of  all  laws  and  constitutions  of  govern- 
ment that  may  hereafter  be  adopted— 

Be  ••'  enacted,  That  the  following  articles  b**  considered 
mMtit  p*"  eofnpaiit  among  die  free  citiieua  of  this  territory ; 

>  ARTICLE  li 

I L  JS  i  .>ewoo  demeaning  himself  ia  a  peaceable  and  or- 
dttly  aaaaw.  riiali  eT#^bo  molested  on  adiaoHnt  of  his  mod» 
«rf  worehip  c*  feyfk«>^  iwniimiHHi.  ^^^ 


ini>iiiiiM>iitljWi    nwwww— JM 


IM 


APPENDIX. 


§  2.  The  inhabiUniB  of  said  territory  ahnll  hlwiys  bo  entitled 
to  the  benefiu  of  the  writ  of  habeas  corpus  and  trial  by  jury, 
of  a  proportionate  representation  of  the  people  in  the  legisla* 
ture,  and  of  judicial  proceedings,  occording  to  the  course  of 
common  law.  All  persona  shall  be  bailable,  unless  for  capiul 
offences,  where  th»  proof  shall  b«  evident  or  the  presumption 
great.  All  fines  shall  be  moderate,  and  no  cruel  or  unusual 
punishm'^nta  shall  be  inflicted.  No  roan  shall  be  deprived  of 
his  liberty  but  by  the  judgment  of  his  peers,  or  the  law  of  the 
!rnd ;  and  should  the  public  exigencies  make  it  necessary  for 
the  common  preservation  to  take  any  person's  property,  or 
to  demand  his  prticular  services,  full  compensation  shall  be 
made  for  the  same ;  and  in  the  just  preservation  of  rights  and 
property,  it  is  understood  and  declared  that  no  law  ought  ever 
to  be  made,  or  have  force  in  said  territory,  that  shall,  in  any 
manner  whatever,  interfere  with  or  affect  private  contracts 
or  engagements,  "  bona  fide  "  and  without  fraud  previously 
formed. 

§  3.  Religion,  morality  miH  knowledge  being  necessary  to 
good  g-overnment  and  the  happiness  of  mankind,  schools  and 
the  means  of  education  shall  forever  be  encouraged.  The 
utmost  good  faith  shall  always  be  observed  towards  the  In* 
dians ;  their  landa  and  properly  shall  never  be  taken  from  them 
without  their  consent;  and  in  their  pi&perty,  rights  or  liberty 
they  shall  never  be  invaded  or  disturbed,  unless  in  just  and 
lawful  wars,  authorised  by  the  representatives  of  the  people ; 
but  laws  founded  in  justice  and  humanity  shall,  from  time  to 
time,  be  made  for  preventing  injustice  being  done  to  them, 
and  for  preserving  peace  and  friendship  with  them. 

$  4.  There  shall  be  no  slavery  nor  involuntary  servitude  «q 
said  territory  otherwise  than  for  the  punishment  of  crimes, 
whereof  the  party  shall  Have  been  duly  convicted. 

41  No  person  ehaU  b«  deprived  of  the  r%ht  of  hearing 
U1BS  ittMsOWn  (^enoo ;  no  nnreuoMble  searehea  or  soizureo' 
shall  be  granted ;  tha  freedom  of  dM  pNM  tball  tt&«  b*ire> 


APPENDIX. 


181 


ill  klways  bo  entitled 
un  and  trial  by  jury, 
[leople  in  the  legiaU'- 
ng  to  the  courae  of 
lie,  unleaa  for  capital 
t  or  the  preaufliption 
no  cruel  or  unusual 
shall  be  deprived  of 
ra,  or  the  law  of  the 
lake  it  necessary  for 
erson'a  property,  or 
tmpenaation  shidl  be 
rration  of  rights  and 
at  no  law  ought  ever 
ry,  that  shall,  in  any 
set  private  contract* 
out  fraud  previoualy 

e  being  necessary  to 
lankind,  schools  and 
I  encouraged.  The 
rved  towards  the  In* 
nr  be  taken  from  them 
erty,  rights  or  liberty 
i,  ualess  in  just  and 
atives  of  the  people ; 
y  shall,  from  time  to 
being  done  to  them, 
vith  them, 

roluntary  aerritude  «n 
unishment  of  crimes, 
eonvieted. 

the  right  of  )>e8riiig 

le  aearehes  or  seixuree 
paw  «biU  ttft^  titiw*' 


strained ;  no  person  shall  be  twice  tried  for  the  same  offence » 
nor  the  people  deprived  of  the  right  of  poaceahly  aasembling 
and  discuMing  at?y  matter  they  may  think  proper ;  nor  shall 
the  right  of  petition  ever  be  denied. 

§  6.  The  powers  of  the  government  shall  be  divided  into 
three  distinct  departments— the  legislative,  executive,  and  judi- 
cial ;  and  no  person,  belonging  to  one  of  these  departments, 
shall  exercise  any  of  the  powers  properly  belonging  to  either 
of  the  others,  except  In  cases  herein  directed  or  permitted. 

ARTICLE  II. 

§  1.  The  legislative  power  shall  be  vested  in  a  House  of 
Representatives,  which  shall  consist  of  not  less  than  thirlecR 
nor  more  than  sixty-one  members,  whose  numbers  shall  not 
be  increased  more  than  five  at  any  one  session,  to  be  elected  by 
the  qualified  electors  at  the  annual  election,  giving  to  each  dis- 
trict a  representation  in  proportion  to  ita  population,  (exclu- 
ding Indians,)  and  the  said  members  shall  reside  in  the  dUtricl 
for  which  they  shall  be  chosen ;  and  in  case  of  vacancy  by 
death,  resignation  or  otherwise,  the  executive  shall  issue  hia 
writ  to  the  district  whero  srafh  vacancy  has  occurred,  and 
cause  a  new  election  to  be  held,  g-vin^  sufficient  notice  at  least 
ten  days  previously,  of  the  time  mi^  j^hm  of  holding  said  elec- 
tion. 

§ «.  The  House  of  Representative*,  when  assembled,  shall 
choose  a  Bpeaker  and  its  other  officers,  be  judges  of  the  quali- 
fications anil  election  of  ita  members,  and  ait  upon  ita  own  ad- 
journment from  day  to  day.  Two  thirds  of  th«  House  shall 
eonstitnte  a  quorum  to  tranaaet  business,  but  a  smaller  number 
may  adjourn  from  day  to  day,  and  may  be  authorised  by  Uw 
to  compel  the  attendance  of  abaent  members. 

$  8.  The  House  may  determine  the  rules  of  its  proceeding*, 
pnnish  iu  members  for  disorderly  behavior,  and  with  the  Con- 
currence of  two-ihirds,  expel  a  member,  but  not  a  second  time 
for  die  aame  oiTenee ;  and  shall  have  all  powers  neeeaaary  for 


IM 


ArPRNDIX. 


•  legiflature  of  a  tamporary  government,  not  in  eontravenUoH 
with  the  reelrictiona  itnpoaed  in  ttiia  Urgaiiic  Law. 

§  4.  'I'he  Houai*  of  UepresenUtivea  shall,  Iruni  lime  to  time, 
fix  the  salnriea  of  the  iliHTerenl  oftinera  appointed  or  elected  un> 
der  thia  compact,  provided  the  pay  of  no  oflicer  ahall  be  altered 
during  llie  term  of  hia  aervicei  nor  ahall  the  pay  of  the  IIoub« 
Imi  increased  by  any  law  taking  effect  during  the  aeaaion  at 
which  Buch  alteration  ia  made. 

§0.  The  House  of  KepresenUtivea  shall  have  the  aol* 
power  of  impeaching ;  thrce-fourtha  of  all  the  members  muat 
concur  in  an  impeachment.  The  governor  and  all  civil  oflicera 
tinder  theae  articlea  of  compact,  shall  be  liable  to  impMchment 
for  treason,  bribery,  or  any  high  crime  or  misdemeanor  in 
office.  Judgment  in  auch  cases  ahall  not  extend  further  than 
removal  from  office,  and  disqualification  to  hold  any  office  of 
honor,  trust  or  profit  under  Uiis  compact ;  but  the  party  convto« 
ted  may  be  dealt  with  according  to  law. 

§  6.  The  Houae  of  Representatives  ahall  have  power  to  lay 
out  the  territory  into  auitable  dislricta,  and  apportion  the  repr*' 
aentatton  in  their  own  body.  They  ahall  have  power  to  pass 
laws  for  raising  a  revenue  either  by  the  levying  and  coHecting 
of  taxes,  or  the  impoaing  license  on  merchandiie,  ferries,  or 
other  objects— to  open  roads  and  canalo,  either  by  the  levying 
a  road  tax,  or  the  chartering  of  companies ;  to  regulate  the 
inlerrx)urse  of  the  people  with  the  Indian  Iribea ;  to  esUblish 
post  offices  and  post  roads ;  to  declare  war,  suppreaa  insurrec- 
tion  or  repel  invaaion ;  to  provide  for  the  organizing,  arming, 
and  disciplining  the  militia,  and  for  calling  forth  the  militin  to 
execute  the  laws  of  Oregon ;  to  pass  laws  to  regulate  the  iatw 
duction,  manufacture,  or  sale  •f  ardent  spirits ;  to  regulats  the 
currency  and  internal  pdice  of  the  country  ;  to  create  inferior 
officee  necessary  and  not  provided  for  by  these  articles  of  com- 
pact ;  and  generally  to  paaa  such  laws  to  promote  the  general 
welfare  of  the  people  of  Oregon,  not  contrary  to  the  spirit  of 
thia  inatniiiMiiit;  aad  all  powers  not  hereby  expressly  d^egatod. 


m 


APfKNDIX 


Itt 


not  in  eontravenUoM 
;aiiic  Law. 

nil,  Ironi  lime  to  time, 
pointed  or  elected  un* 
>fncer  ahHll  be  altered 
the  pay  of  the  IIouM 
luriug  the  aeaaion  at 

■hall  have  the  aole 
ill  (he  membera  muat 
>r  and  all  civil  oflicera 
iable  to  impeachment 
9  or  iniademeaitor  in 
t  extend  further  than 
to  hold  any  office  of 

but  the  party  convio* 

lall  have  power  to  lay 
d  apportion  the  repre* 
11  have  power  to  peaa 
levying  and  collecting 
srchandize,  ferriea,  or 
either  by  the  levying 
nies ;  to  regulate  the 
n  tribes;  to  est^'bliah 
ar,  suppress  insurrec- 
le  orgnnizing,  arming, 
\g  forth  the  militin  to 
s  to  regulate  the  iatrcH 
pirits ;  to  regulats  the 
ry  ;  to  create  inferior 
these  articles  of  com- 
0  promote  the  general 
ntrary  to  the  spirit  of 
y  expresdy  dcdegatod. 


mi 


remain  with  the  people.  The  House  of  Kepre««niatives  sbaU 
convene  annually  ou  the  fir»t  Tuwday  in  December,  at  .uch 
pUce  as  may  be  provided  by  law,  and  shall,  upon  their  first 
meeting  after  the  adopUou  of  thia  instrument  of  compact,  pro- 
ceed  to  elect  and  define  U»e  duties  of  a  secretary,  recorder, 
trea«urer,  auditor,  marshal,  or  other  officers  necessary  to  carry 
into  eflect  the  provisions  of  this  oompacU 

§7.  The  executive  j^ower  shall  Iw  vested  in  one  person, 
elected  by  the  qualified  voters  at  the  annual  election,  who  shall 
have  power  to  fill  vacancies ;  to  remit  fines  and  forfeitures  ;  to 
grant  pardons  and  reprieve,  for  offences  against  the  laws  of  the 
terriu.ry  ;  to  call  out  the  mUiury  force  of  the  country  to  repel 
invasion  or  suppress  insurrection;  to  take  care  that  tlie  lawa 
are  faithfully  executed,  and  to  recommend  such  laws  as  he 
may  consider  necessary  to  U.e  representatives  of  Uie  people 
for  their  action.     Every  bill  which  shaU  have  been  passed  by 
the  House  of  Representatives,  shaU,  before  it  becomes  a  law, 
be  presented  to  the  governor  for  hie  approbation.     If  he  ap- 
prove,  he  shall  sign  it;  if  not.  he  shall  return  it,  wiOi  hU  ob. 
iections.  to  the  House,  and  the  House  shall  cause  the  objectione 
to  be  entered  at  large  on  ita  journals,  and  shaU  proceed  to 
reconsider  the  bill ;  if,  after  such  reconsideration,  a  majority 
of  two-thirds  of  the  House  shall  agree  to  pass  the  same,  it  sbaU 
become  a  law.    In  such  cases  the  vote  shaU  be  taken  by  ayes 
and  noes,  and  be  entered  upon  the  journal.    If  any  biU  shaU 
not  be  returned  by  the  governor  to  the  House  of  Representa- 
Uvea  within  three  days  (Sundays  eiccepted)  after  it  shall  have 
been  presented  to  him,  the  same  shall  bocome  a  law  m  like 
manner  as  if  the  governor  had  signed  it,  unless  the  House  of 
Baprespntativea,  by  ita  adjournment,  shaU  prevent  ita  retuxn , 
ia  which  case  it  shall  not  become  a  law.    The  governor  shall 
ooatinue  in  office  two  years,  and  unUl  his  successor  u-  duly 
elected  and  qualified ;  and  in  case  of  the  office  becoming  vacant 
by  death.  resignaUon,  it  otherwise,  the  secretary  «h^   ««» 
oise  the  douea  of  the  office  ur  til  the  vacancy  shaU  be  filled  by 


ArPRNtMX. 

•If^tion.     The  gcivernoi  •hall  receivo  the  ■um  of  doltara 

per  annum,  •■  full  coinpenaetinn  Tor  hie  servicee,  which  •tiin 
miiy  be  incrrMeU  or  diininwhed  >t  iiiy  time  hy  law,  provided 
the  eaUry  uf  no  governor  aliail  Im  altered  during  hia  term  of 
■ervice.  The  governor  ahall  have  power  to  eonvere  the  legie- 
Uture  on  oitraordinary  oceuiona. 

$  8.  The  judicial  power  ahall  be  veated  in  a  aupreme  court, 
■nd  auch  inferior  courts  of  law,  equity,  and  nrbitration,  aa  may, 
by  law  from  time  U>  lime  be  eatablitlied.  The  anprRine  court 
•hail  conaiat  of  one  judge,  who  ahall  be  elected  by  the  Houae 
of  RflpreaenUtivea,  and  hold  hia  office  for  four  yeare,  and  until 
hia  aucceaaor  ia  duly  olrcted  and  qualified.  The  aupreme  court, 
except  in  caaca  otherwiafi  directed  by  thia  compact,  ahall  have 
appellate  juriadiclion  only,  which  ahall  be  co-extenaive  with 
thie  territory,  and  ahall  hold  two  aeaainna  annually,  beginning 
on  the  flral  Mondays  in  June  and  September,  and  at  auch  pla- 
ce* ae  by  law  may  Iw  directed.  The  aupreme  court  ahall  have 
a  general  auperintending  control  over  all  inferior  courta  of  law. 
It  ahall  have  power  to  iiaae  write  of  habeaa  corpus,  manda 
mua,  quo  wnrranto,  certiorari,  and  other  original  remedial  write, 
and  hear  and  determine  the  aame.  The  aupreme  court  ahall 
have  power  to  decide  upon  and  annul  any  lawa  oontrary  to  the 
proviaiona  of  theae  artiolea  of  compact,  and  whenever  called 
upon  by  the  Houae  of  Repreaen  tali  yea,  the  aupreme  judge 
ahall  give  hia  opinion  touching  the  validity  of  any  pending 
meaaure.  The  Houae  of  Repreaentutivea  may,  hereafler,  pro* 
vide  by  law  for  the  aupreme  court  having  original  juriadiotioa 
in  criminal  casea. 

§9.  All  officers  under  this  mmpaet,  ahaU  take  an  oath,  ta 
foUowa,  to  wit :  I  do  aolemnly  a  vear,  that  I  will  eupport  the 
Organic  Lawa  of  the  proviaional  Government  of  Oiegon,  so 
far  aa  snid  Organic  Lawa  are  conaistent  with  my  dntiee  as  a 
eitixen  of  the  United  Statea,  or  a  aubjoet  of  Oreat  Britain,  and 
faithfully  demean  myself  in  office.    So  help  me  Ood- 

$  10.  Every  free  male  deacendant  of  a  white  man,  inhabitant 


MM 


lutn  of  dotlara 

ervicea,  which  •iiin 

ti«  hy  law,  provided 

during  hia  Unrm  of 

0  eunvtr*  tht  l«(it> 

in  a  aupreme  court, 

1  nrbitration,  aa  may, 
The  RiiprRuie  raurt 
lected  by  the  Ilouaa 
four  yeara,  and  unlil 
The  aupreme  court, 
compact,  ahall  have 
e  co-flxtenaive  with 
annually,  beginning 
Mr,  and  at  auch  pla^ 
ime  court  ahall  have 
irerior  courta  of  law. 
)«u  eorpua,  mands 
ginal  remedial  write, 
aupreme  court  ahall 
lawa  contrary  to  the 
md  whenever  called 

the  aupreme  judge 

dity  of  any  pending 

muy,  hereafter,  pro* 

original  juriadioiioo 

leU  take  an  oath,  te 
It  I  will  eupport  the 
iment  of  Oiegon,  M 
with  my  dntiee  ae  a 
i(  Great  Britain,  and 
elp  me  God- 
rhiie  man,  inhabitant 


ArrKNMX. 

<M  thia  territory,  ol  tm  age  flf  twenty^ne  yeart  and  iipwarde, 
wlio  ahall  have  been  -..  inhabitant  of  thi«  territory  at  ilie  lime 
of  ita  orgnniaation.  ah  .'  be  entitled  to  vote  at  the  election  ol 
offleera,  civil  and  mili  .ry,  and  be  eligible  to  any  office  in  the 
terrilorv,  rmvided,  tl  .i  nil  peraona  of  the  deacriplion  eniiUed 
to  vole  by  the  provit  .•  of  tliia  aeclion,  who  ahall  emigrate 
to  thia  tenitory  after  '^  organiiation,  ahall  be  entitled  to  Uie 
righta  of  ciliiena  afU;  '.<  .*mg  reaidtd  aix  montha  in  the  ter- 
ritory. 

^11.  The  election  fr,-  ell  civil  oflieera,  provided  for  by  thia 
compact,  ahall  be  held  ?"d  Aral  Monday  in  June  annually. 

ARTIC  ?>:  Ill— LAND  LAW. 
§  1.  Any  peraon  now  holding,  or  hereafter  wiihing  to  eatab- 
liah  a  claim  to  lan«l  in  -  territory,  chaU  denignaie  the  eitent 
of  hie  claim  by  natur  i  -undariee,  or  by  ratrka  at  the  cornera 
and  upon  the  linea  . '  snch  claim,  and  have  the  extent  and 
boundariea  of  aaid  el ;  *.  recorded  ia  the  office  of  the  territorial 
recorder,  in  a  book  k;  ««  kept  by  him  for  that  purpeee,  within 
twenty  daya  from  th^  isme  of  making  aaid  claim :  provided, 
that  thoae  who  ahmll  hii  already  in  poeaeaeion  of  land,  alull  b« 
allowed  twelve  montii«  from  the  paaaage  of  thia  act  to  file  ■ 
dMcription  of  hie  clain;  in  the  recorder'a  office :  and  provided 
l\irther,that  the  aaid  deimint  ahall  aUta  in  liia  record,  the  aise, 
•hape,  and  locality  of  auch  eUiim,  and  give  the  namea  of  the 
adjoining  claimante ;  and  the  recorder  may  require  the  appli- 
eant  for  auch  record  to  be  made  to  anawer,  oo  hia  oath,  lotwh* 

inn  ^  ^^' 

§  a.  All  clainunle  ahall,  within  aix  montha  from  the  time  of 
retording  their  daime,  jiako  permanent  iniprovemente  apoa 
the  aame,  by  building  or  encloeing,  and  alao  become  an  oceti. 
pant  upon  eaid  claim  wiUiin  one  year  from  the  date  of  auch 
record,  or  in  caae  not  occapied,  the  peraon  holding  aaid  daim 
ahall  pay  into  the  ireaaury  the  earn  of  five  dollara  annually, 
and  in  caea  of  failure  to  ojcupy,  or  on  faiiurt  of  payment  of 
It 


■  ■-# 


r 


Its 


APrK.NMX 


tha  lum  above  lUtMl,  the  claim  ahall  )>•  eoitaidrrwl  m  aMB* 
donad :  providad,  that  no  noa-raaldant  of  Ihia  Mrritorjr  ahall 
hava  tha  boneflt  of  thla  law :  and,  provided  further,  that  any 
rtaidant  of  thla  territory,  abaant  on  private  buaineaa  Tor  two 
yaara,  may  hold  hie  claim  by  paying  fiv«  doUara  annually  to 
the  treeaury. 

$  8.  No  individual  ahall  b«  allowed  to  hold  a  claim  of  mora 
than  one  aquare  mils,  or  eii  hundred  and  forty  acrea,  in  • 
aquaro  or  oblong  fonn,  according  to  the  natural  aituution  of 
the  premiaea.  Nor  ahall  any  individual  b«  nllowed  to  hold 
more  than  one  claim  at  the  aame  lime.  Any  peraon  comply- 
ing with  the  proviaiona  of  theae  ordinancea,  ahall  be  entitled 
to  the  aame  rerourae  agaiiiat  treapaaa  aa  in  other  caaea  by  law 
provided. 

$  4.  Partnerahipe  of  two  or  more  peraona  ahall  be  allowed 
to  take  up  a  tract  of  land  not  exceeding  aix  hundred  and  forty 
•erea  to  each  perann  in  aaid  partnarahip,  aubjeot  to  all  the  pro* 
viaiona  of  the  law ;  and  whenever  aueh  partnerahip  ia  dia* 
■oWed,  the  membora  ahall  each  record  the  particular  paru  of 
aaid  tract  at  may  Im  allotted  to  him  :  provided  that  no  member 
of  aaid  partnerahip  ahall  hold  n  aeparata  elum  at  the  timo  of 
the  exiatence  of  aaid  partnerahip. 

$  9.  The  boundary  Ilnea  of  nil  daima  ahall  hereafter  ooa< 
(brm,  aa  near  as  my  be,  to  the  cardinal  pointa. 

$  6.  The  ofReera  eleoted  at  the  general  election,  held  on  tho 
ftrat  Tueaday  in  June,  1841),  ahall  be  the  offlcera  to  aot  under 
this  orgsnic  law,  and  their  ofliaial  acta,  ao  far  aa  they  are  in 
accordance  with  this  compact,  are  hereby  declared  valid  and 
lagaL 

$7.  Amendmenta  to  thia  inatrament  nay  be  propoaed  by 
the  Houae  of  Repreaentativea,  two-thirda  of  the  membera  con* 
curring  therein  ;  which  amendmenta  ahall  be  made  public  in 
aU  part*  of  Oregon,  and  be  read  at  tha  polla  at  the  next  sue< 
eeedtng  general  electiori,  and  a  eonourrenee  of  (wo-thir(b  of  all 


MM 


mm 


f 


• » 


»iiii«lfr*(l  a*  BMO* 
hia  Urrilorjr  ■lull 
1  Turiher,  ihat  any 
buaiiiMi  for  two 
dollira  annually  lo 

ki  a  olaim  of  mora 
il  forty  acitMi,  in  • 
latural  aituution  of 
«  nllowed  to  hold 
ly  peraon  comply- 
I,  ahali  bo  antitlad 
oth«r  casea  by  law 

a  ahall  ba  allowod 
huMlrwl  and  forty 
)jeot  to  all  the  pro* 
>artnorahip  ia  dia* 
particular  parts  of 
ed  that  no  inembar 
um  at  tlia  timo  of 

ihall  hareaftar  ooa* 

}inu. 

ectinn.  held  on  th« 

fHccra  to  act  undor 

far  aa  th«y  »r«  in 

declared  ralid  aod 

y  be  propoaed  by 
'  the  membera  oon« 
be  made  pablic  in 
la  at  the  next  aue' 
oftwo-thirtbof  aU 


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um 


APPENDIX. 


187 


the  membeni  elected  at  raid  election,  may  paaa  lald  amend 
menu,  and  they  ahall  become  a  pari  of  tliia  compact. 


CERTIFICATE. 
I,  John  E.  Ijong,  aecretary  of  Oregon  territory,  do  hereby 
certify,  that  the  foregoing  ia  a  true  and  correct  copy  of  the 
original  law,  aa  passed  by  the  representatives  of  the  people  of 
Oregon,  on  the  fifth  day  of  July,  A.  D.  1846,  and  submitted  to 
the  people  on  the  twenty-six:h  day  of  the  nme  month,  and 
by  them  adopted  and  now  on  file  in  my  office. 

J.  E.  LONG,  Secretary. 


N.  B.  At  the  December  Session,  1845,  of  the  House  of 
Representatives,  two-thirds  of  the  mombera  concurring  therein, 
the  following  amendments  to  the  Organic  Law  were  proposed, 
to  wit :  Strike  out  in  the  4th  section  of  said  law,  the  words 
•<  or  more."  Also,  to  amend  the  land  law  so  as  to  **  permit 
claimants  to  hold  six  hundred  acres  in  the  prairie,  and  forty 
acres  in  the  timber,  though  said  traoti  do  not  join." 

ARDENT  SPIRITS. 

AN  ACT  to  prarent  the  introdnetioa,  nie,  mi  diitilhlion  of  ardent  ipiiiis 

in  Ongotu 

$1.  Be  it  enacted  by  the  Houie  of  Repretentativee  of  Ore- 
gon Territory,  That  if  any  person  shall  hereafter  import  of 
introduce  any  ardent  spirits  into  Oregon,  with  intent  to  seli, 
barter,  give,  or  trade  the  same,  and  shall  ofler  the  nme  for  sale, 
trade,  Imrter,  or  gift,  he  shall  be  fined  the  sum  of  fifty  doUan 
for  each  and  every  such  offence,  which  may  be  recovered  by 
indictment,  or  by  trial  before  a  justice  of  the  peace,  without 
the  form  of  pleading. 

$  2.  That  if  any  person  shall  hereafter  sell,  barter,  give,  or 
trade  any  ardent  spirits  of  any  kind  whatever,  directly  at  indi- 
itetly,  to  aiiy  person  within  Oregon,  he  sliaU  forftit  and  pay 


188 


AIYBNDIX 


the  •um  of  Iwenty  dollart  for  ewh  and  every  euch  ule,  trade, 
barter,  or  gift,  to  be  recovered  by  indictment  iu  the  county 
court,  or  before  a  juatice  of  the  peace,  without  the  form  of 
pleading. 

$  8.  That  if  any  peraon  aliall  hereafter  eiUbliah  or  carry  on 
any  manufactory  or  diatillery  of  ardent  apirite  in  Oregon,  he 
ahall  be  aubject  to  be  indicted  before  the  county  court,  aa  for  ft 
nuisance,  and  if  convicted,  he  ahall  be  fined  the  aum  of  one 
hundred  dollar* ;  and  the  court  ahall  iisaue  an  order  to  the  aher- 
iff,  directing  him  to  aeixe  and  deatroy  the  distilling  apparatua, 
which  order  the  sheriff  ahall  execute. 

$  4.  Whenever  it  shall  come  to  the  knowledge  of  any  offi- 
cer of  this  government,  or  any  private  citizen,  that  any  kind  of 
apirituoua  liquora  are  being  distilled  or  manufactured  in  Ore- 
gon, they  are  hereby  authorised  and  required  to  proceed  to  the 
place  where  such  illicit  manufacture  is  known  to  exiat,  and 
aeixe  the  diatilling  apparatus,  and  deliver  the  aante  to  the  near- 
eat  district  judge  or  justice  of  the  peace,  whoae  duly  it  ahall  be 
immediately  to  issue  his  warrant,  and  cauae  tlie  houae  and 
premi'-'  of  the  perton  against  whom  such  warrant  ahall  'ae 
iaaved  v:  oe  further  searched;  and  in  case  any  kind  of  spirivu- 
ous  liquora  are  found  in  or  about  said  premiaea,  or  any  imple- 
nente  or  epparatua  that  have  the  appearance  of  having  been 
used  or  constructed  for  the  purpose  of  manufacturing  any  kind 
of  apirituoua  liquora,  the  officer  who  ahall  have  been  duly  au- 
dtorised  lo  execute  aaid  warrant,  ahall  seize  all  auch  appwa- 
tOB,  implements,  and  spirituous  liquors,  and  deliver  the  same 
to  the  jndge  or  juatice  of  the  peace  who  issued  the  said  war- 
not;  said  officer  shall  also  arrest  the  peraon  or  paraona  in  or 
about  whoae  premiaea  anch  apparatua,  implements,  or  spirilu* 
one  liquora  are  found,  and  conduct  him  or  them  to  aaid  judga 
or  justice  of  the  peaee,  whoae  doty  it. ahall  ba  to  proceed 
against  aueb  eriminal  or  crininals,  and  dispose  of  tha  artielea 
riased,  acooiding  to  law. 
f  B.  AUfinaa and panabiaa iaspoead imdartiqa afet, ahall g»i 


ry  such  tale,  trade, 
ent  iu  the  county 
thout  the  form  of 

itabliah  or  carry  on 
rile  in  Oregon,  he 
iinty  court,  aa  for  6 
id  the  ram  of  one 
n  order  to  the  sher* 
liiUlliog  apparatut, 

wledge  of  any  offi- 
n,  that  any  kind  of 
inufaetured  in  Ore- 
k1  to  proceed  to  the 
lown  to  exist,  and 
le  aame  to  (he  near- 
loae  duly  it  ahall  be 
uie  tlie  house  and 
h  warrant  shall  'm 
any  kind  of  spirivu- 
nises,  or  any  imple- 
ice  of  having  been 
ufacturing  any  kind 
have  been  duly  au- 
se  all  such  appara* 
d  deliver  the  same 
seoed  the  said  war- 
on  or  persons  in  or 
ilaments,  or  spirilu* 
r  them  to  said  judg* 
ihall  be  to  proceed 
ipose  of  th*  articles 

Jertlqa  afet,  shall  fo. 


u 


APPENDIX.  ,^ 

one-half  to  tlie  informant  and  witnesses,  and  the  other  half  to 
the  officers  engaged  in  arresting  and  trying  the  criminal  or 
crimiaals ;  and  it  ahall  be  the  duty  of  i^  officers  into  whose 
hands  such  fines  and  penalties  may  come,  to  pay  over  as  direc- 
ted in  this  section. 

$  0.  Tliis  act  shall  not  be  so  construed  as  to  prevent  any 
practising  physician  from  selling  such  liquors  for  mediebe, 
not  to  exceed  half  a  pint  at  one  time. 

$  7.  That  it  shall  be  the  doty  of  the  aw'Jvy  to  poUish  this 
act  in  the  first  newspaper  printed  in  Ore^>in. 


CERTIFICATE. 
I,  John  E.  Long.  Secretary  of  Oregon,  do  hereby  certify, 
that  the  foregoing  act  on  ardent  spirits,  is  truly  and  correctly 
revised  by  me.  J.  E.  LONG,  Seeretary. 


-^ 


U:-. -KijU*    '''• 


■MfBNKftmtjnnMMiiMMHKwM* 


I  k.  k  r.  p.  Jamet'i  Pnblltatioiu,  CioeinnaU. 


OOLLIN8*8   KENTUCKY. 
HISTOBIOAL  8KBT0HS8  OV  KEHTUOKT; 

Em'aiacing  iU  Hiitory,  AntlqulUei,  and  Natural  CnrloaiUM,  Geo- 
graphical,  SUtiitlcal,  and  Geological  deacriptiona ;  with  anecdote*  of 
Pioneer  life,  and  moeb  THAU  oiib  huhdseo  Bioo»AyH»CAt  bketcru 
of  diittlnguiihed  Ploneera,  Soldiers,  SUteamen,  JurlaU,  Law/era, 
DivineB,&e.( 
ILLUSTRATED  BY  A  MAP  OF  THE  STATE, 

Aars  vrwAXD  or  Foirr  mra  noBAYoroi, 

Br   LBWIS   COLLINS. 

FLAN  or  THK  WUXK. 

1.  An  OoUlne  Htitory  of  the  State  from  the  period  of  tta  earileit  MtUemenl 
to  the  cloaa  of  the  year  1A44— c^  John  A.  M'Clunf .  EUq. 

9.  Geomphlcal  and  StaUrtlcal  DeacrlpUona,  Agrlcaltural  ResouKea,  Oeo- 
logieid  Fomtatlona,  and  Mineral  wealth. 

3  H-atorlcal  Sketchea  and  SUtUUot  of  the  varloua  denomlnaUona  of  ChrU- 
tiant,  with  ■lietchee  of  Pioneer  Miniatera. 

4.  A  general  view  of  the  counUea,  alphabetically  arranged  ;  their  bounda- 
rfea,  face  of  the  conntry,  character  of  the  aoil.  ataple  producU.  lU- 
tietice,  Amj.  i  with  a  deacriptlon  of  their  eitiea,  towns  and  vUlagea. 
Together  with  a  full  deacripUon,  under  the  heada  of  the  counties  thus 
arranaed,  of  Indian  battles,  sklmiUhes,  personal  rencontors,  aneodotesof 
border  life,  inurestlng  incident.,  dtc..  «M5.  Also,  descriptions  of  natu. 
ral  curiosities,  among  them  the  Mammoth  Gave,  the  greatest  n.tnral 
wondf,r  of  the  worid ;  and  descriptions  of  Ancient  Remains,  Old  Forts, 
Mounds,  Gravevards,  &o.  , .  ^  , 

6.  Bloaraphlcal  Sketches,  and  sketches  of  characters  of  between  one  and 
two  hundred  Pioneers,  Soldiers,  fltataemen,  Jurtols,  Uwyers,  DlTlnes, 

The  work  comprises  560  large  octaTO  pa«s ;  printed  on  good  P•P«^  *^ 
new  and  handaome  type,  and  subetantUlfy  bound  In  library  style,  or  emboss- 
ed cambric,  gilt  back ;  price  $3  ftO. 

NOTICES  OF  THE  PRESS. 

«Mr.  Colllni  ha.  accompli.h«l  llie  work  wilh  '^}'f''S^\^fif^JJ'^J^i^ 
a  propur  apprecialion  of  |6«  importance  of  lia»inf '«  "•»  f.^"";    .n  ii.  .irSii?  fcS' 
frim  hi*  hiiid..  a  work  of  isMni.  '"»~«'.'^«"  "^»i?f^  5  tiUv  orTIT^ruiwSl 
lurei,  coinpreh*n.i»e  in  Iw  rente  of  '^'')*\"^*,J^^'*  '»  *•"''  "'  '     ' 
d«laiii  at  the  pafae  of  wUdosi  lelion."— CiiMmi««»  »•■*••. 

.  •   •   -  Betide,  a  real  amount  of  TeryTal«ab1.W«OTleaLMA^^^ 
lieal  infomiMion,  the  work  eomi>riM.aeoiirid.rabl^H»konncldjm  andi^ 

S.U  caleulafcd  to  make  It  en.  oTih.  moM  n»*^«  *«2L»  "Ji^IiSISrH.  Im.  warS 
ha.  tho.  combinwl  two  important  .lemsnt.,  ln.tr«etion  and  •""■••^J-  '!!J'"  "IKiS 
no  la&rto  wndwliie  praduetioa  worthy  of  pnWie  PSJ.'OMKL'"* '^  •»  «»»«« 
S^t  tewlU  leeelye  li  In  M  piepedioo  to  the  merits  of  the  book"  ^  ^^^^_  ,„.^,. 

-II  U1.M  ..^  a  book  as  we  soppceejijenr^UiMlH^^  »  ^  ^ 

iadlteonMble  ^*rt  of  his  Hbrarr.  OoabtlsM,  man*  o«or  tto  awe,  woo  wisa  w 
TSat^  andiisiand  the  pnias  of  oar  PW-  **" /"S^!;,,  HirM.Uuk^ 


I 


Y. 
iHTUOKT; 

I  CuriotitiM.  Oeo> 
;  with  anecdotM  of 

UrUlOAh  METCHU 

,  JuriaU,  L&w/eri, 
HE  UTATE. 

iBATorei. 


tU  eariieit  lettlenient 

unl  ResourcM,  Oeo- 

kominaUons  of  Chrii* 

nged ;  their  b«unda« 
■taple  producU,  ila- 
,  towns  and  villasea. 
of  tlio  counties  tnus 
nconters,  anoodoteR  of 
,  deaoriptiona  of  natu- 
I,  the  greatest  natural 
iRemaiua,  Old  Forts, 

of  between  one  and 
lis,  Lawyera,  DiTinee, 

m1  on  good  paper,  with 
irary  atyle,  or  amboas- 

38. 

inbl*  induMor*  and  wiik 
ne.  We  hsve,  iherefore, 
d  in  all  ill  eiMntisI  fta- 
I  in  many  of  iu  irutUiil 

eal,aiailadeal,aiid  gMle- 
Bf  Ineidam  and  an«4-<>oie, 
'  the  taawn.  Tka  aaihor 
waaaMnt  Hahaaapand 
|a;  and  wa  are  eouldtai 

hMI*  iAwMti.  XmMUi. 

iweklanwlUfcdwbjaa 
r  the  liaM,  who  wish  10 

ymi»nH*rM,UuiniUt 


TUB 


WBITIHH  FAIMBH  AMD  SARBENER; 

PKTOm  TO 

Igrieoltare,  lortlcnltan,  the  Flower  Gtrdeo,  Cattle  BiiiiDf, 
Silk  Gnltare,  kt. 

p.T.nrr*ATMt  WITH  ITPWAXDS  OF  10  nOXATIVOI ; 
EDIYKD    BY 

E.  J.  HOOPER,  THOMAS  AFFLECK,  AND  CHARLE8  W. 

ELLIOTT.  EaoHS. 

In  OM  ml,  STik,  IIW  PMM,  doth,  ta,  ihMp,  |2  to. 

This  is  a  praeticai  booli :  the  adilora  and  other  able  writers  for  the  worU. 
having  had  long  experience  In  the  different  branohea  of  Agriculture,  Hor- 
tlonlture,  Cattle  Raising,  dtc.,  &c.,  upon  which  they  treat  j  and  the  selected 
•rltolet  being  taken  from  the  best  works  and  journals  on  these  subjecU,  all 
having  especial  reference  to  the  climate,  aoil,  dtc.,  of  the  South  and  Wait, 
and  North w  eat 


AMERICAN 
FLOWER  BARBBV  OOHPAHIOK. 

ADAPTED  TO  THE  UNITED  STATES— Ii«  Twait  Pabts. 

PART   1.— Arrangement  of  the   Flower  Gaidani  and  Propagation  of 

Planta. 
PART  ^ — Management  of  the  Flower  Garden,  Culture  of  Planta,  Di»- 

criptive  List 
PART  3^— Corwtruetloa  and  Management  of  the  Oreen*Honae. 

By  EDWARD  SAVERS,  Landaoape  and  Ornamental  Oantener. 

1  vol.,  IStmo.,  eloth,  last  ediUan,  levlasd,  oiilai|ad  and  Ulnttntadi  Prioo, 
7ft  ata.    VftT  eorer,  SO  ota. 

"»•  flMMf  «Mf*«  «ba»«ijl»iH»ir  JMwar*  Saytrp,  CTiMjm^t-TfceJBewaslnf 
laau  fcr  ■oriachaia  has  callad  for  AinHar  at^sMnc*  (e  MwpAyM*.  and  rifhl  glad  are 
m  aUa  as  ia  Mr.  8.  to  inpan  inMraellon  In  that  daligaifcl  partuil,  has 


wa  that  eiM  la 


,mt»r>w  >u»  ~.  .-  ~..  —  —  — r- 'n  in  that  daligaifcl  partuil,  has 

Ini  tha  banaSt  of  hit  aridantlir  sntargad  esperlance.  t  a  a  •  •  •  T|,« 
worn  IS  ladloleatlr  arrannd,  at  10  toau*.  each  taliitot  btiiif  eooBnad  10  lit  preeat 
akma.  uk  the  whole  Mabraaad  by  m  wall  printad  paffta.  and  ia  aCu«4  at  a  priec 
irtSak  Ma^ii^i^a  Mask  or  aU.<wMaa.MHkte  MM^toitriiM 


.'A 
ii"- 


•  ,>■:■ 


,y,f>» 


VnluaLfi  Booki,  ptMuAtd  >  J.  A.  <k  U.  P.  Jaioi.—  Continutd. 

Vha  I.araar  r  ilaehlim,  of  lh«  Ri>nr»n<i  Aim^ilt  af  DiTtan,  U  WMtmlaiUr 
lUlllk'il  aad  adu)  «l  b;  Um  B/cod  of  N*w  Vurk  and  i>liilad«l|ibla.  Hikiwr  eottr  i  iViM, 
lUMiita. 
Tha  Aaiarlaan  T«Et  Book  i  A  oMful  Po«k*l  Maanal,  at  InUtaal  M  •wry  AaiariMa 
dtlMii ;  miitalnlntt  Um  Dsrlaratlon  of  I  nd»p«B<iMtM,  tha  Aftk'lM  of  i>iH>*d«r»Uiia.  tha 
ConttltuliuD  or  Um  UulUU  BUIaa,  aiul  WublngtoD'a  fanwall  AddnrM.  nimo.,  eluth, 
gttti  Priei,  iU  cunU. 
Tha  Ronca  of  tha  ACaatlama.    B7  Un.  lliiMira.    A  tilwtloB  of  teaatiful  pUcM 

from  tha  work*  of  Ihl*  gtrtad  arlKr.    UKuo,  elotb,  gill:  /'Hca,  16  MiiU. 
Popa'a  Kaaay  •■■  Slaa  1  To  wUtb  U  addad  hi*  oabbntad  UnlTarial  tnjn.    tSmo, 

cloth ;  >Viw,  16  esnt*. 
Alao,  an  adltkw  of  tha  kmm,  with  Mlwallaaaom  Psama.   tamo,  aloth,  gUt;  Pritt, 

!<6  cvnti. 
Tha  Rnehantad  Plamta  —  BalnK  fablx  la  ynt*.  by  Mabamii  MonoLncon  tha 
Tarloui  HautloMDU  panuniOad  In  tha  k'lowart  and  PluiU.    Sim».  ctolb,  v<U;  CHoi, 
26  MiiU. 
The  lasmctuico  of  V  awarat  and  AlphatH  of  riaral  iBMaaM.    To  which  t* 
added.  KABLKH  or   »U  i(A,  and  tba   I'UkTICAL  ITLUWKR  BA8KKT.    A  baautlAil 
nilnlatur*  edition.    32ino,  cluth,  (tit;  iVioe,  26  mnU. 
Paul  and   VirBiala.     From  tha  Fivnch.    By  J.  B.  U.  Da  Saisi  Pukai.    fl^o, 

doth,  gilt;  Prter^JA  cant 
ltm*y  or  tha  Laha.     I  Poara  la  ill  Canto*.    By  Mr  Waltm  Boott.    U*.  -  >TlMd 
•ditlon,  with  an  Introdi  ;tl<iii,  Ulonaary    aud  Co|<loua   Not«a,  hy  tba  author,    'ii  um, 
cloth;  iVica,  'ilt  wnta.      "Tbara  li  a  rlihnew  and  aplrlt  lu  thia  poam  — a  profbalon 
or  Ineldant,  and  ihifUni    UilUaney  of  eolo?ing,  that  nnlnda  ua  of  tha  witchary  of 
Arloalo— and  a  oonitan    al«i<tioity  and  oocaalnnal  energy,  which  aean  to  belong  mora 
particularly  to  the  auUn  r  now  butbra  vt."—Jtffrtji. 
IrfOlah  Rook|i—An  (  rienial  nomauea,  by  Tbomai  Uooai.    tlmo,  oloths  Pria,  36 
oenta.  -  Tbii  afqulalte  po  in  ha*  long  buen  the  admiration  of  raadera  of  all  claa^M,  and 
li  now  preaenMd  In  a  ne  t  and  beautiful  (brm. 
Uoora'a  Malodlaa.    1  lab  Uelodlaa,  br  Tiomai  Mooai;wltb  tha  origlDal  prelktory 
letter  on  Muaio.    32mo    clot»> ;   Ftiet,  36  oeoU.    Tbeae  celebrated  melodlae  are  too 
well  known  and  appreob  led,  to  need  much  eulocy :  Ibey  breathe  throughout  a  apirit  of 
nattonality.  In  tha  iaog  age  which  "Moore"  alone  rould  give. 
Tha  Ooaraa  of  Tlm<  —  A  Poem.    By  RoauT  PotLoi,  A.  M.    WHb  a  HeoMlr  of  the 
Author,  by  William  UtI;  gaton  Prall,  Km|.    A  aopioua  Index,  and  aa  Analyala,  piaOiad 
to  each  book.    Simo,  clo  b;  Priet,  U  oeal*. 
few  modern  poema  exiat,    hich  at  onoa  attained  aoeh  aeeeptaoaa  and  wJebrity  aa  PoUok  ■ 
Couraa  of  tIu«>   Origlni  lly  laawid  without  a  aama,  nreikae,  or  a»  other  amndaaa,  lU 
lofty  thamea.  exctUng  n  rit,  melodloua  varaa,  and  aU>powarfU  efleata  upoo  tha  reader, 
eompleialy  aOenead  Ofltl  lam,  aad  aeonred  general  and  iaatlng  popularity. 
FoMAiaa  lioat.    A  F  am,  in  twalra  Boaka.    By  Joaw  Miuoii.    With  Ba^aajAory 
Kotoa,  and  a  Lift  of  t  a  Author,  I9  the  Hot.  U.  BtebUag,  A.  M.    83bo,  doth;  Ptiot, 
26eenla. 
Tha  Faaillr  Ma«l<  bI  IiUnrarr—A  Treatiaa  on  tba  PrarCBtioB  and  Cufa  s( 
Dtiaaaea  by  Uagiman  a  id  Umple  Hedldnea.    Uarlaad  and  ealargad,  with  tha  addition 
of  a  Vegetable  Materia  Uadloa,  polaling  out  tba  Tirtuea,  prcparatlona,  and  doaea  of  ow 
■oat  TiSuabIa  naUn  I  edieai  rUnla.  awl  aa  ApoaBdix,  Ulaatrated  wllh  oa*  huodiad 
KngraTlaga,  air  of  wh  eh  ar*  aolorad.    By  J.  0.  MoawooB,  VuV.    1  ToL  tro,  W3  pagaa. 
out,  aprlBg  back,  marl  la  edge;  Prkt,  %i. 
FalBMr'a  OracwB.     LJonm^af  TiaTaliomathaKoekylloaatalaiktothaaMthar 
the  Columbia  HlTar,  n  iria  duriog  tha  yaara  1M»  aad  HMi  eonlaining  mlnuU  Daaerilh 
tioni  of  tba  VaUaya  o(  tlia  WUiaytfaj.J'mpffi^  ^!lS!!S!!*i  *  •*"*'urtrt?Be«Saaw 

iUm  jmf, 
_       I  Hvar  t  tha  Oqiaale 

Uwi'of  <^«t<m  *w  Itoiy;  TaMaa  of  aiaat  toOweidt  of  tta  OMM*  itng*;^ 
Bbeat  aw  ««Sta  or  t»  a  N«  Paiaa  Uagawai  a  «MMrtattoa  ar  MWM  IMt  lad^^ 
<na^,  Aa.    aj  Jfi'i,  PAUwa.  1  ToLlimo»ato«bi  Prkt,  M  mm»».  Iha  tMta  walk. 

MMf  OOVii^  3ft  otv.  M» 

4Mlh ar  Pnalda  .t bniaoB. >a4  tha  t>iM*al ar  hhiiMlaa flNM  Waahtaitaa  t» iMh 
SCl   «7JA1II/B.riuiin.   ltaLUM»alatliiMi%Waaata. 


IL 


■Aiaiiiahi  ■^■.~ 


•ip 


Iaiow.—  ConHntud. 

r  Dirtan,  kl  WMtmlniUr 
>l|ibl*.    Vnftoami  ttiat, 

r  InUtMl  I*  (TCry  Anwina 
Ut'lM  of  i:lM>IMiMr»U<iB,  the 
rail  AdilnrM.    a:<iua.,  elulb, 

hIwUob  of  bMtoU/ul  ptoeM 

IM,  16  MIlU. 

4  UnlTWMl  tnjm.   SSmo, 

.   aaMOtiloUi,  gUt;  iVto, 

Madahii  UoKTOLno,  on  th« 
I.    Iim».  ctoita,  vlUi  VHm, 

«1  IIbMmu.  To  whieh  it 
KK  BA8KKT.    A  bMuUAll 

:.  D«  BAirf  Pu«ti.    flMO, 

rAt,rm  Roorr.  La«.  -<tIm4 
!<•,  hf  tb*  autbur.  a'i  uu>, 
lu  thu  poem  —  •  pronialoa 
>lndi  ui  of  Um  witchuy  of 
,  which  M*B  to  Im1oo(  mora 

■I.  tlmo,  olothi  Pria,  U 
if  n>d«ri  of  all  cIv^m,  and 

with  Ura  original  prtfktonr 

MlabraUd  mvlodlaa  an  too 

tatho  throughout  a  ipirlt  of 

iT«. 

t.M.    WHtiaUMaolrorth* 

s,  and  an  Analjpali,  pnOxad 

JM*  and  ohkbrity  aa  Pollok'i 
,  or  aajr  otbar  appandago,  iu 
rfU  UM»  upon  tha  nadar, 
Bg  popularity. 

Miuoii.  With  Baplaaalory 
(,  A.1I.    SteOidotli;  iV<ot, 

M  Prrfcntion  and  Can  at 
tnlargwl,  with  tha  addition 
raparatlooa,  and  dooM  of  our 
UnatratMl  wllb  on*  hundnd 
ti.D.    1  TOL  «T0,  MS  pagaa. 

r  Moantalu^to  tha  BMtk  «r 
gonlaining  mlanta  Daaerip- 
lat;  n  gaami  Piawiptlon  of 
ata.)  »  Ikt  of  niiiwHT 
■  -  •  Alio, 
tM  jraata, 
^  I  llMri  VhaOigaaie 
of  tha  CMiMi  '*>«>■•  kwI 
•rVMni  Itoodt  iMHMta  of 
,  M  MMtt.    Ika  iMM  WM*, 


Dn%  ila.  t  a  IM  •■  »• 
loOHi»anthaBan*a. 
aBanr,feitha  kMttaa 
loon-caa  U««r  j  tl)a  ( 


Aaaata. 

CotUttmttt. 


iji    ii»w;i     I  I 


i 


mmmJK  4  ■!*  '■  t  'MMmmmmk  Am 


M<HMarifi4**lM«<MiMi«* 


r 


•.       '! 


i 


— 1  iiir*    * 


